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Official Bandai 1/60 Scale DX Toy Thread Ver.6


Duke Togo

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http://tokyohunter.blogspot.com/2010/02/ba...ta-lucifer.html

For anyone interested, Tokyohunter wants 22,800 yen for one going to the US.

yeah, it will be sold to Japanese residents ONLY at that price, w/out the normal dist. discount that retailers usually get... so, good luck getting it for lower than 16800JPY x 130%... :mellow:

EDIT - my bad... the 50-100% mark-up is usually for smaller/cheaper items like the Robot Damashii exclusives. 30-40% would be about right for these more expensive figures like the DX VF-27... probably around $240-250 like the VF-25F Fold Clear ver. w/c retailed @ 1500JPY and is selling for $220-230. :ph34r:

pretty close to what i predicted. i think that'll be the standard price unless you have some friend in Japan willing to get one for you and not charge you any service fee.

you can try this guy if he will be getting the green VF-27. He usually sells exclusives only. The "buy it now" price would proly be the same as tokyohunter's, but he sometimes "auctions" at least 1 if he has multiples and the item isn't selling fast.

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OK so has anyone personally pre-ordered from Bandai site for the Tamashii exclusive items before?? I just did, for my grace and some other items, and its my first time ordering through them. If you pay by credit card, do they actually charge now because im seeing the charge on my account already and I am hoping that they are just authorizing the transaction.

Edited by anubis20
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I gloss clearcoated mine to prevent the all those markings and paint from scratching off. Speaking which, I thought it was kind of weird that they went through the trouble of making paying attention to detail with all those white markings but then didn't bother to do the ones that they had etched in. So I went ahead and did those myself as well as some paint applications in other areas they had decided not to do. Added some weathering while I was at it.

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Now I'm just waiting for the second layer of the clearcoat to dry properly before I try to transform it to battroid.

I guess in the end, I'm not really all too bummed about the green version because Brera's still looks pretty awesome. I'm just going to get a second one of this some time later.

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Did you clearcoat everything, or just over the markings? And what'd you use? (I was leaning toward using Future, and only over the major areas of paint)

I clear coated over any visible surface (including the shield) that with an acrylic lacquer used for automotive purposes. It came out pretty hard and seemed durable. I didn't disassemble it because I didn't feel it was necessary and also didn't want to bother since the main purpose to to protect the paint. I did take off the hip guns, to spray them separately and get them out of the way. My second coat after I did the weathering was with testor's glosscote, but it doesn't seem all that strong to me. I'll wait a few days to see if it improves. If not, I'll have to go back to the first clear coat I went with.

If you want to use future, I'd say go with that. It's safer to use than the acrylic lacquer. I found the lacquer can pick up color from the plastic and cause some color bleed so it was best to do light mists to minimize the chances of that. You'll want to cover any visible surfaces and not just the major ones because the difference between the plastic sheen and a gloss coat is still night and day.

Another bonus is I found the clear coat doesn't show fingerprints visibly like the bare plastic does. I've handled it all over while I was doing the weathering and didn't see any fingerprints left on the surface.

Edited by MacrossJunkie
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If you want to use future, I'd say go with that. It's safer to use than the acrylic lacquer. I found the lacquer can pick up color from the plastic and cause some color bleed so it was best to do light mists to minimize the chances of that.

That's not picking up color, but rather because either the propellant or the clearcoat itself slightly melts some of the plastics :blink: - I had the same issue with a model kit and a spraycan of automotive basecoat. You better keep the spraycan at a safe distant while clearcoating the toy, or it might end up damaged.

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Sorry, comments are in french, but that the pictures that count :lol:

VF-27 DX de Bandaï en 800x600 pask'il le vaut bien

001vil.jpg

002ibw.jpg

Superbe couleur, plein de markings que les précédents n'ont pas...mais parait-il peinture rose claire fragile, même le fameux Graham de MacrossWorld a éraflé le sien, je vais donc faire très attention...

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cockpit qui s'ouvre pour dévoiler le Pilote Brera et sa passagère Ranka...

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ajout de l'énorme flingue sous la carlingue, il faut carrément "ouvrir" la bête pour sortir l'attache...

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Transformation en mode Gerwalk, les pieds à 3 doigts lui donne un air d'oiseau de proie !

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sortie des bras,

009oiu.jpg

les pilotes sont amovibles...

010sn.jpg

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I clear coated over any visible surface (including the shield) that with an acrylic lacquer used for automotive purposes. It came out pretty hard and seemed durable. I didn't disassemble it because I didn't feel it was necessary and also didn't want to bother since the main purpose to to protect the paint. I did take off the hip guns, to spray them separately and get them out of the way. My second coat after I did the weathering was with testor's glosscote, but it doesn't seem all that strong to me. I'll wait a few days to see if it improves. If not, I'll have to go back to the first clear coat I went with.

Great weathering job. So just to clarify, you did a clear coat, then weathered, then another clear coat?

My shoulders have a few scratches on them but so far the nose is still pristine. I think I want to keep it that way, though... I'll probably start looking for a lilac to touch up my shoulders then clear coat those and the nose.

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Great weathering job. So just to clarify, you did a clear coat, then weathered, then another clear coat?

My shoulders have a few scratches on them but so far the nose is still pristine. I think I want to keep it that way, though... I'll probably start looking for a lilac to touch up my shoulders then clear coat those and the nose.

Yep, that's correct. Clear coat -> weathering -> another clear coat.

I couldn't find any lilac sort of color in any local hobby stores so I just ended up buying purple and pink Tamiya acrylics and mixed them til I got the desired color.

The clearcoat seems dry enough now so I transformed it to battroid and took some shots.

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just got mine. clearly more playable than the VF-25: much easier to tranform, yet locks nicely in fighter mode. not having super/armor packs that keep falling off definitely helps in that regard. so i'm wondering if bandai would consider releasing a super VF-25 with molded on packs.

mine came with a few scratches and chips unfortunately. nothing big though, so can be passed off as "weathering" or mission damage.

my only real complaint is that the wrist is too loose to support the BFG one-handed, in my case even if the gun was held vertical. hoping some nail polish would help. it would've been nice if there was a wrist lock of some sort, like a small tab sliding from the arm and into the "gloves"/back of the hand. or perhaps if the rifle butt could somehow be locked into arm, like in the DX Quarter.

overall, still happy with it. i leave nearly all of my valks in fighter mode, but this one just looks awesome in battroid.

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What's the proper orientation for the wing engine nozzles? They were crooked in the box, so I've had them tapered end on the bottom/ventral side... but the guy at gamu-toys has the tapered ends on outboard sides....

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not sure if this has been posted yet, but amiami has extended the 50% reduced shipping till the end of marchhh.......... hey this is very zeee good news indeed boys purchase away !!!!!!!!!!!!!

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What's the proper orientation for the wing engine nozzles? They were crooked in the box, so I've had them tapered end on the bottom/ventral side... but the guy at gamu-toys has the tapered ends on outboard sides....

instruction manual has the short end down so that's how I have it.

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not sure if this has been posted yet, but amiami has extended the 50% reduced shipping till the end of marchhh.......... hey this is very zeee good news indeed boys purchase away !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just waiting for restock without poster, now that is seriously tempting!

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I have been a bit confused about the hip/crotch articulation. I found the VF-27 has a very limited posability but some people say it is very posable (?)

Tried to understand but still not totally sure what the instructions here mean. Can I "thrust" the crotch out more than in promotional and instruction booklet photos? if not, what does it say in this part of the instructions booklet? Thanks in advance to all of you who can read Japanese! (I know it says the piece is articulated, but on what direction? "side to side" or "back and forth"?

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Edited by regult
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not sure if this has been posted yet, but amiami has extended the 50% reduced shipping till the end of marchhh.......... hey this is very zeee good news indeed boys purchase away !!!!!!!!!!!!!

YESSSS!! Amiami rocks! Now all I need is a re-stock :)

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Sorry, comments are in french, but that the pictures that count :lol:

Superbe couleur, plein de markings que les précédents n'ont pas...mais parait-il peinture rose claire fragile, même le fameux Graham de MacrossWorld a éraflé le sien, je vais donc faire très attention...

My schoolboy French is extremely rusty, but he didn't just refer to me as famous did he?

Graham

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I have been a bit confused about the hip/crotch articulation. I found the VF-27 has a very limited posability but some people say it is very posable (?)

Tried to understand but still not totally sure what the instructions here mean. Can I "thrust" the crotch out more than in promotional and instruction booklet photos? if not, what does it say in this part of the instructions booklet? Thanks in advance to all of you who can read Japanese! (I know it says the piece is articulated, but on what direction? "side to side" or "back and forth"?

the VF-27 has more posability than the VF-25 in the legs because it has a mid-thigh swivel joint and greater range of motion in the knees and the special Gerwalk joint just after the intake. But the swing bars get in the way of the leg moving at the hip joints a little bit, you kind of have to work around them but it's still pretty posable.

(example: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...st&p=833958 )

As for the crotch thing: it's an extra joint on the torso that acts kind of like a waist joint. You can detach the part behind the crotch from the rest of the torso, which has the effect of letting you get a more anime-accurate amount of crotch thrust and a pathetic amount of useful waist articulation at the cost of the toy becoming incredibly unstable in all but the most basic poses.

At least on mine the extra joint is very loose (it's the only loose joint on the toy by the way) and the toy wants to flop over unless you have the back of the legs leaning against the swing bars enough to prop it up.

it doesn't really improve articulation or range of motion and the extra crotch thrust is (in my opinion anyways) not worth the loss of stability.

Edited by anime52k8
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The clearcoat seems dry enough now so I transformed it to battroid and took some shots.

post-10222-1267399835_thumb.jpg

I noticed that in this picture, the crotch piece has more "thrust" than promotional pictures.

I haven't achieved this stance on mine, I tried popping out the crotch to achieve more "thrust" but it was really stiff and I didn't want to break anything. Instructions (as shown a few posts ago) seem to indicate there is articulation in that area.

Can you take a picture of the underside of that crotch articulation while doing that pose? I'd like to see what is supposed to pop out and what is supposed to stay, because I am afraid of loosening the hip connector that was so lose on the VF-25.

Edited by regult
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one quick question about the vf-25.

Why is the movie version of alto that slightly off-coloured one? Is it that way in the movie? Or is it just a non-canon mistake (since they seem to going for so cheap)? Anyway, I bought it from hlj but it ain't here yet.

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That is because you lack try!

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No the posing I was trying to do required that the leg come back and the ankle forward for a "walking"/moving pose. You physically can't get that as there is a stop in the "toe" and while the ankle has some backwards play there is little to no forwards play . Nice poses though and I never thought about turning the "thighs" sideways like you did in the top pic.

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I noticed that in this picture, the crotch piece has more "thrust" than promotional pictures.

I haven't achieved this stance on mine, I tried popping out the crotch to achieve more "thrust" but it was really stiff and I didn't want to break anything. Instructions (as shown a few posts ago) seem to indicate there is articulation in that area.

Can you take a picture of the underside of that crotch articulation while doing that pose? I'd like to see what is supposed to pop out and what is supposed to stay, because I am afraid of loosening the hip connector that was so lose on the VF-25.

I hope these help.

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There is a clip on the end there that you have to overcome to get it to disengage from the rest of the fuselage. Much like the VF-25 toy, the waist joint itself not very tight. It will stay for the most part, at least for me, but shaking it will knock it loose. You can stick a spare fist up there to give it support (please spare the fisting jokes).

Edited by MacrossJunkie
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not sure if this has been posted yet, but amiami has extended the 50% reduced shipping till the end of marchhh.......... hey this is very zeee good news indeed boys purchase away !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ah man, that is fracking excellent!

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