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David Hingtgen

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    David Hingtgen
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    USA
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    Airplanes (especially airliners), trains, warships.

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  1. That's pretty much my thought, said much more succinctly/eloquently than my post did.
  2. Yes, but the markup on a valk+supers combo pack could be substantial. Especially if they decide to use a "traditional" USD-to-Yen rate, and not "what it actually is now, and is predicted to be next spring". I was going to wait for a US release, especially as it may be easier to get support if Bandai'd----but the more I thought, the more I leaned towards "well, if I'm going to possibly save the better part of a hundred bucks, I may as well at least try to get a pre-order in tonight". Also, and even more importantly IMHO---Alto's -25 is FAR more popular than the other wwm releases. Sure, it's not a Roy 1S, but it's the most visible/popular valk of the last 20 years I'd say. It may sell out quickly in the US.
  3. ::checks source code of confirmation email:: Mine's time-stamped 35 seconds after it opened, assuming AmiAmi opened at EXACTLY 11AM their time. So yeah, less than a minute for sure.
  4. I'm amazed I got one at AmiAmi----I logged into my account about 5 mins before it opened, refreshed every minute or so "just in case"---then the moment it showed up, I added to cart----but it made me log in again to actually check out! Typed as fast as I could, and it went through.
  5. Shawn----I never knew you were so interested in Plus. (for me, it's the series that really got me into Macross)
  6. I'd assume not as expensive as it was just a few weeks ago. (should have sold mine back in July! Now I'll probably get less) Anyways, the REAL new Suikoden game coming out:
  7. I have seen a Draken and 262, but only static. Some day I'll get see the YF-23's. (I plan to see both, so two trips...)
  8. 1.5 years after I originally posted in this thread saying I'd wait for a sale---turns out it never really did go on sale, but the yen fell pretty hard against the dollar since then. So I just finally ordered a VF-4.
  9. Were any of the hollow spring-pins replaced with regular pins, in the anniversary one? It'll suck if these new ones start splitting their hinges apart after a few years like the originals. (mainly the ones around the waist/crotch area, but the nosecone one also seems a bit iffy)
  10. Not so well----leaving it in until midnight did nothing, so I let it sit overnight----still nothing this morning. Added a bit more oxi-clean and checked it around lunch-----no change to yellowing, but all the metallic grey paint around the underside of the backplate had dissolved away, leaving pure black paint. (apparently it's painted in two layers). So now I have a white+black Alto, instead of white+gunmetal. Going to sell it for parts I guess----it's still good for many parts, and some parts are still perfectly pristine white. All the black and red striping etc is still perfect, but the gunmetal grey they use for the "internal bits" mostly exposed in GERWALK mode is apparently far "weaker" paint than the rest.
  11. Most of what I want lately is P-Bandai, so it's expensive and/or sells out instantly, so I have bought very few kits the past couple years. "Yeah, I'd happily pay 15-30 for it, but not 50-80 just because it's "exclusive". It's getting ridiculous, that if I drew up a list of like my top 15 suits I'd like a new HG/RG kit of, nearly every single one has been made fairly recently, but only as P-Bandai.... So I just go without, rather than spending $$$$$ on small kits.
  12. Jealous because I've never seen any of those. (And I'm a big Gripen and Tornado fan). Memepost? Memepost:
  13. Well, with the announcement of the reissue of Alto's -25, I just tossed my Alto into a vat of warm oxi-clean. (it worked very well on Legos, but have never tried it on a valk). Disassembled as much as I could, but impossible to remove all the metal bits, since some pins are insanely tight and some bits are super-glued together. Will see how it works---I do the "warm water with some oxi-clean in it, for a long time" method, vs a "zapping with UV/sunlight or using high-concentration creams" method. My Lego parts suffered no damage at all, so I'm hoping the same thing will be effective on my valk, and also not harm the paint or metal bits. My Alto's yellowing is very mild compared to what's usually posted here, but I can see it, and it'll only get worse over time---better to "bite the bullet now"----it'll either be restored nicely, or be ruined-----but I want to know before the pre-order window closes...
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