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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. That's pretty much my thought, said much more succinctly/eloquently than my post did.
  2. Yes, but the markup on a valk+supers combo pack could be substantial. Especially if they decide to use a "traditional" USD-to-Yen rate, and not "what it actually is now, and is predicted to be next spring". I was going to wait for a US release, especially as it may be easier to get support if Bandai'd----but the more I thought, the more I leaned towards "well, if I'm going to possibly save the better part of a hundred bucks, I may as well at least try to get a pre-order in tonight". Also, and even more importantly IMHO---Alto's -25 is FAR more popular than the other wwm releases. Sure, it's not a Roy 1S, but it's the most visible/popular valk of the last 20 years I'd say. It may sell out quickly in the US.
  3. ::checks source code of confirmation email:: Mine's time-stamped 35 seconds after it opened, assuming AmiAmi opened at EXACTLY 11AM their time. So yeah, less than a minute for sure.
  4. I'm amazed I got one at AmiAmi----I logged into my account about 5 mins before it opened, refreshed every minute or so "just in case"---then the moment it showed up, I added to cart----but it made me log in again to actually check out! Typed as fast as I could, and it went through.
  5. Shawn----I never knew you were so interested in Plus. (for me, it's the series that really got me into Macross)
  6. I'd assume not as expensive as it was just a few weeks ago. (should have sold mine back in July! Now I'll probably get less) Anyways, the REAL new Suikoden game coming out:
  7. I have seen a Draken and 262, but only static. Some day I'll get see the YF-23's. (I plan to see both, so two trips...)
  8. 1.5 years after I originally posted in this thread saying I'd wait for a sale---turns out it never really did go on sale, but the yen fell pretty hard against the dollar since then. So I just finally ordered a VF-4.
  9. Were any of the hollow spring-pins replaced with regular pins, in the anniversary one? It'll suck if these new ones start splitting their hinges apart after a few years like the originals. (mainly the ones around the waist/crotch area, but the nosecone one also seems a bit iffy)
  10. Not so well----leaving it in until midnight did nothing, so I let it sit overnight----still nothing this morning. Added a bit more oxi-clean and checked it around lunch-----no change to yellowing, but all the metallic grey paint around the underside of the backplate had dissolved away, leaving pure black paint. (apparently it's painted in two layers). So now I have a white+black Alto, instead of white+gunmetal. Going to sell it for parts I guess----it's still good for many parts, and some parts are still perfectly pristine white. All the black and red striping etc is still perfect, but the gunmetal grey they use for the "internal bits" mostly exposed in GERWALK mode is apparently far "weaker" paint than the rest.
  11. Most of what I want lately is P-Bandai, so it's expensive and/or sells out instantly, so I have bought very few kits the past couple years. "Yeah, I'd happily pay 15-30 for it, but not 50-80 just because it's "exclusive". It's getting ridiculous, that if I drew up a list of like my top 15 suits I'd like a new HG/RG kit of, nearly every single one has been made fairly recently, but only as P-Bandai.... So I just go without, rather than spending $$$$$ on small kits.
  12. Jealous because I've never seen any of those. (And I'm a big Gripen and Tornado fan). Memepost? Memepost:
  13. Well, with the announcement of the reissue of Alto's -25, I just tossed my Alto into a vat of warm oxi-clean. (it worked very well on Legos, but have never tried it on a valk). Disassembled as much as I could, but impossible to remove all the metal bits, since some pins are insanely tight and some bits are super-glued together. Will see how it works---I do the "warm water with some oxi-clean in it, for a long time" method, vs a "zapping with UV/sunlight or using high-concentration creams" method. My Lego parts suffered no damage at all, so I'm hoping the same thing will be effective on my valk, and also not harm the paint or metal bits. My Alto's yellowing is very mild compared to what's usually posted here, but I can see it, and it'll only get worse over time---better to "bite the bullet now"----it'll either be restored nicely, or be ruined-----but I want to know before the pre-order window closes...
  14. Curious if the exploding waist assembly has been fixed. Mine spent most of its time in fighter mode with no packs, yet still broke.
  15. I think I prefer the first movie to the show, but prefer the show to the second movie. But they're all fairly even, not a very big preference for any comparison.
  16. This year, the F-35 demo team has a really neat coin, way better than any of the 22/35 teams of the previous couple years: Nice patch, too:
  17. I fairly freely spray-paint silver pieces, because frankly Lego themselves aren't all that good/consistent at it. No two silver-sprayed pieces are alike, and are often splotchy on the sides etc, with incomplete coverage. My silver-sprayed wheels etc are practically indistinguishable from LEGO's, except for often having more consistent coverage... (Tamiya TS-30 is a great match, for sheen/color) (buying 4 "real" silver wheels for $10 each vs buying white ones for $0.25 and spraying...). And if you like semi trucks like I do...
  18. Cameo spoiler: And non-spoiler tip: The mid-credit scene is short but not super-critical IMHO (its not like, the mid-credit scene from Capt America or anything). The post-credits scene is a one-line throwaway joke from a very minor character that has zero impact on the MCU, and is VERY skippable if you just want to leave the theater.
  19. I'm curious about the gold on Heavyarms----multiple layers/colors, or just a really nice single-stage gold paint?
  20. We've seen April in ST:TAS. The encyclopedia uses a pic of Roddenberry as a sort of placeholder.
  21. Speaking as a mod here, despite being a huge Trekkie: Just stop. Capt Pike said "no one" and that's how it's gonna be. End of discussion.
  22. Lego's site has always had weird "routing" issues, even when I don't sign out. It'll just randomly send me to the UK, Canada, Hungary, etc. Go into the actual URL, and just change "en-uk" or whatever to "en-us".
  23. I'd like a 0D done in the right base colors, without needling a $200 factory weathering job to look right. Slate blue upper, very pale grey lower. Simple. Like Yamato's sample showed oh so many years ago, before they completely changed it at the last minute for the actual release.
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