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Salamander

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Everything posted by Salamander

  1. Generally, kits of this vintage are molded in one or two colors (no multiple colors on the same sprue!), seam lines run right down the middle of parts, arms and legs must be assembled and painted in multiple stages because the limb sections do not use polycaps, and quite a bit of work is necessary to get a decent result. Depending on the kit, the last part might require rebuilding whole sections from scratch and/or adding detail/making holes
  2. Those with a two-digit number and a 5 digit item code on the box are regular release items, and those with only a 5 digit item code on the box are limited editions, AFAIK. (Note that this being Hasegawa, almost all of their releases are limited editions, for a given definition of "limited" that usually means "less than usual, but still a lot")
  3. @arbit I think you'll still see the lines after handpainting. I speak from experience, I'm nearing completion on a 1/72 airplane resin kit that used 3D printed masters, and although the lines are very hard to see by naked eye and almost impossible to feel, they are more obvious with paint on top...
  4. @MechTechThat box looks like the baby brother of a wooden microscope slide box😄
  5. N-scale, which is 1/150 in Japan, and 1/160 in the rest of the world.
  6. 1/43 is a very common scale for diecast scale model cars. Probably so the Ingram and Griffon can duke it out on the starting grid of Suzuka or something...😅 "Izumi, avoid stepping on the SuperGT cars like Ota just did, and stop the Griffon from burning down the paddock. Ota will join you once the marshalls have dug him out of the gravel trap."
  7. Regarding the Humbrol paints, they changed the formulation a few times over the last couple of years, and some colors (especially metallics) did not fare very well. So be sure to test them on some scrap plastic, in case they don't dry well.
  8. I'm not so sure the barrels are broken. Considering the size of those guns they might just have been made in multiple pieces to fit in the box. A gun up to twice the size of the mech is pretty much on course for anything designed by Mamoru Nagano, after all... 😅
  9. The Macross would probably dance in tune with Lynn Minmay's (obviously the names need Americanisation) R&B song, behaving like some stereotypical African American rap dude showing off his big guns while thrusting his crotch. The Valkyries would look like horrifically mutated chimps in Battroid mode, set off HUGE EXPLOSIONS every five seconds, and talk back to their pilots. The Zentradi would all be rewritten as one-dimensional cartoon villains who get a send off in the most violent fashion possible because they would turn out to be androids that can be ripped apart with no consequences. The episode "Pineapple Salad" would also be incorporated into the movie, with the salad in question replaced by a Big Mac and Roy recharacterised as some standard B-movie action hero who chases skirt in the most misogynistic way possible. The resulting movie would be praised for its awesome looking CGI scenery porn, be hugely popular with the common people, score really badly in reviews by movie critics, and induce suicidal thoughts in both Macross and Robotech fans alike.
  10. Another fun one is the Type 74 Type G tank. In real life, this was a hideously expensive upgrade to the standard Type 74 tank that meant only four tanks were ever upgraded. In the Patlabor universe it was more widely used by the JGSDF alongside the Type 90. Fortunately, Asuka Models makes a Type G in 1/35, so once I build mine it will go on the Patlabor shelf. 😄 And while we're on the subject of 1/35 models, Aoshima makes 1/32 models of Japanese trucks, mostly decorated ones, but they also sell regular versions, which look great next to the Patlabor mechs. And with Micro Ace and Aoshima also making 1/32 Japanese cars, putting together a 1/35 Patlabor diorama should be easy (too bad that it takes so much room...).
  11. Those look nice, although the lack of sleeves for the joints puts me off.
  12. Most of the more normal planes and vehicles used in the Patlabor series are modified versions of real life subjects. So I guess this one is a modified Hercules C4: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lockheed_Martin_C-130J_Super_Hercules
  13. Here are the pages from the Perfect Establishment Data books. I've included some relevant Helldiver pages, too. You'll have to rotate them yourself.
  14. The Perfect Establishment Data books are collections of almost all the line art, that were released around 2008. For Patlabor they released five books in all, one each for the TV series, OVAs, and the movies. Studio DNA also did books on some other series, including L-Gaim, Xabungle, and Dancougar. I've found some more lineart in the first book of that series (that one covers the TV series), including a side view. I'll try to scan in the pages for you (if I manage without damaging the spines of the books; otherwise it will be pictures...). By the looks of it finding those books for a decent price nowadays is pretty much impossible. I see the L-Gaim book at Mandarake for 3 times its original retail price... 😓
  15. If that is the 4-engined transport jet, page 45 in Patlabor Perfect Establishment Data Vol. 3 (and page 26 for the Helldiver + parachute). Unfortunately only threequarter front and rear drawings, no side or top/bottom views, and the art is shown pretty small in the book.
  16. ...if you have the tools to machine those cutters. Anyway, this discussion made me pick up some Tamiya cutters, for the lovely amount of 34.95 Euros...I think they'll work better than the DIY-shop ones I've been using :)
  17. Is there anything in those books that isn't in the Patlabor Perfect Establishment Data books?
  18. For more "solid" takes on the Waverider concept, just look at some of the SRW designs (R-Wing) or Virtual On's Cypher Motortrasher mode. The Virtual On transformable Viper versions and the later Myzr designs are more Valkyrie-like (often with color schemes that Fire Bomber would love and lots of spiky bits).
  19. That may be because the people who posted those entries didn't even know the kits are recasts. Besides, if no one adds the original kits, nothing is going to change...
  20. Wouldn't it be easier to print them in white? Then you only have to paint on the details (a few dots of paint I imagine...).
  21. Be sure to first try a decal you don't need...
  22. @arbit Are you sure your screen's pixels are perfectly square? If they are slightly taller than wide, that might also cause the effect.
  23. FFFFFFFFFFF... Warning to anyone who has still laying around event-only Japanese mecha garage kits that are not from a big manufacturer like B-Club, Kotobukiya, Volks, or Wave, and that need the use of aftermarket poly caps: It appears that Kotobukiya has quietly discontinued their older poly cap joints, meaning that whatever stock you can find is what is left available. Now I'm left with a bunch of high-end, rather expensive garage kits that need specific Kotobukiya joints - that I don't have, and likely won't be able to find...aaargh! Edit: Hmmm, Kotobukiya's site still shows them as not out of production...did HLJ.com drop those products?
  24. I like the ones where it looks like they said "Hey guys, let's be lazy and make a new one where we double the engines by just flipping the warp drives UPSIDE DOWN".
  25. Clearcoat the decals with (for example) Tamiya clear from a bottle (apply with a brush). Then go SLOW on the decals. Don't try to move them off the sheet until the sheet looks positively soaked and the decals look like they're lifting off the backing sheet. Just last week I completed a mid-1990s kit where the decals would not budge until I soaked them in water for over an hour (each)...
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