Salamander
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Everything posted by Salamander
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I do hope they realise that although Hasbro owns both brands, they do not own the looks of the characters (Hanna Barbera changed versions excluded) since those rights lay with Bandai and Ashi Pro. And with Bandai relaunching Machine Robo (which the Gobots toys were based on) this might end up getting ugly...
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The Wave resin kits are indeed fully articulated.
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Macross Resin Variable/Transformable Tutorial/Guide
Salamander replied to ChristopherB's topic in Model kits
I wouldn't call the Club-M kits "super-rare". You can still find them for 2,000-5,000 yen a piece on Y! Auctions Japan and Mandarake... -
Ah, the old blue plastic problem that haunts certain old toys and model kits. It's none of your fault, some plastics age really badly. Brown plastic can do the same, and you can also Google "gold plastic syndrome" (let's just say that some Transformers crumble to dust as if they are in the process of being eaten by TF: The Movie Unicron...).
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Tamiya's Flat Base is not a clear coat, it is used when mixing your own paints to create flat paints.
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<...continued from elsewhere...> "Nooo, Lunamaria! Don't! Don't cross over to the dark side! Don't blow up the shrine!" ...sigh, there goes my quiet afternoon visit...
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So the weather kinda sucks today and it's so dark it's almost impossible to take pictures in natural light... Then this bastard showed up: "What's that shadow? Oh f*ck!" "RUN!!!" <...continued elsewhere...>
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For example, I picked up this cute little kit by Fujimi: After assembling some parts I did a dry-fit of almost everything prior to painting: Some paint added: I didn't pay too much attention to Fujimi's official painting instructions, as the colors they mention don't even match their own example on their site here, and just did whatever seemed fine to me. Then I added a little base (made with left-over resin poured into a Tupperware lid), with some gravel (actually scale HO beach sand) and Tamiya Diorama Texture paint for the earth: That was yesterday. It's pretty much done by now, but I need to wait until tomorrow to make some daylight pictures of the finished model...
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Wrong distance from subject? If I want a smooth finishing, I usually use Mr. Surfacer 1500 spray cans. A slightly wet coat evens out nicely. I don't seem to be able to get the same result with Tamiya's fine surface primer...
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I think I've seen that one on Y! Auctions Japan exactly once...and it went for an ungodly amount of money. My favourite Club-M/Yellow Submarine kit has to be the 1/72 YF-19 (because it includes the full weapon load + fold booster).
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It really, really depends on the kit. Many regular non-anime model kits (and older anime kits) also have bad parts separation. Some resin kits have better parts separation than plastic kits, e.g. Volks' color resin kits. I personally think part preparation on resin kits takes more time than on plastic kits, but painting usually isn't that much more work (getting the paint to stay put on the other hand...).
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Just add lots of X20A thinner until the paint flows freely (like thin milk), but not too much. If the paint starts to look transparent you likely added too much thinner...
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That video reminds me of how easy we have it in Europe with SCART cables and TVs. When I bought my second-hand PS1's (for 10 Euro) I got a RGB-SCART cable with them, and after hooking that up to my HDTV everything worked as intended...
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Maybe also clean the battery contacts? They look rather dark and oxidized.
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Finished Nausicaa with the Ohm some time back: And the Bertone Panther last week: Looks pretty decent for a 50 year old kit with a mostly scratchbuilt interior (for which I had exactly one reference drawing). Surprisingly, the decals were a) still usable, b) reacted really well to MicroSet/Sol, and c) had white that was opaque enough to mostly hide the green paint below them.
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I wish Kaiyodo would reissue their old 1/35 Patlabor vinyl kits (even though I already own most of them). They had the Brocken, TV Ingram 1-3, movie Ingrams, Helldiver, Zero, and Griffin. Most of those had better poses than their 1/24 Zero. Speaking of old 1/35 vinyl kits, B-Club also did several: Ingram, Economy (both versions in one box), SRX-70 (both proto and production versions in one box), and AV-0.
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That liquid mask is equally disastrous on flat surfaces: simply impossible to remove in one piece, with little bits staying behind every single time. It also dissolves in certain types of acrylic paints...
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"conversion" could refer to the older 1/72 kits that had parts to build the Legioss in each of its three modes, or the kits are mislabeled and are actually supposed to be the 1/48 version (which would fit in with the variable Ride Armors that are also getting rereleased).
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Based on the renders I think I'll just wait until I'm skilled enough to properly finish my Club-M version...
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The Ohm base now has all of its (very small) acid lake. Painted it to look sufficiently unhealthy (using my experience with mixing acids in the lab). Also added copious amounts of Ohm blood and put the machine gun in place: Also trying to make something decent out of this old Eidai Bertone Panther car kit: I bought it about a decade ago, the kit was started and incomplete (didn't pay enough attention when buying it), soon realised the bodywork was more or less accurate but the interior absolutely not, tried modding it back then, failed, and so it ended up on the "started but not finished"-stack. Now I figure I should at least be able to build it as a decent looking curbside kit. Took care of the engine bay (did I mention there's a wind-up engine in there?), now working on the interior.
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Base for the Ohm moving forwards: I'm using some layers of Vallejo water texture painted with Tamiya clear paints for the acid lake bit, but the stuff needs to dry a day or so between layers.
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Speaking of old Kaiyodo resin kits, I completed this last week:
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Orguss Valkyrie.
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Nice! Clearly a lot better sculpt (and quality) than Wave's late 1990s 1/100 injection kits.
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Possibly other companies simply can't because Bandai has patented the technique.
