Jump to content

Chronocidal

Members
  • Posts

    8685
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Chronocidal

  1. I honestly wouldn't mind if we had a wider selection of worm-drive enclosures. It's not ideal for easy posing, but I was able to get the arms of a 1/18th scale VF-1 to work almost flawlessly with four each (shoulder forward/back, lift, bicep twist, and elbow). You just needed a crank to pose the arms one joint at a time. I agree though, I would love some compact ratcheted turntables for shoulder and hip joints. Really, the weak link once you get to larger models is that you get past the point where a standard axle is sufficient to support a limb, and you need dedicated turntables to distribute the load.
  2. I've always found it a pretty awesome design, but I think the biggest detractor is the tail design. They just.. kind of sit there, looking primed to snap off in a stiff breeze. Depending on the manufacturing, they may or may not spin like pinwheels. I've had had a rough idea for a new set of tails to just snap over the original mounts and integrate the tails into the wings more like the VF-31 did, but never got around to making them.
  3. So, this is a slightly oddball subject, but I decided to pull out one of my VF-171s last night, and discovered that while it was mostly holding together, there were cracks forming on a few of the parts. Decided, "What the heck, let's fix this." I don't have pictures because my camera has recently died, but I discovered something interesting. The tiny little lower triangle pieces that fold under the chest have always been a fragile mess, because of the metal spring-pins forced into them. I was able to push out the pins gently, and salvage all of the original pieces, soaking them in CA glue to reinforce them and seal the cracks that had formed, and sanding them gently to fit back together. When I went to put them back together, I decided to look for alternatives to the spring pins. As it turns out, the spring-pins are roughly the same diameter as your run-of-the-mill plastic-coated wire-tie. I jammed a segment into each folding panel, trimmed off the excess, and they're almost as good as new, with just a little scuffing from where I sanded them. I also reinforced the upper triangles the same way, and fortunately neither of the upper halves or side flaps were cracked. I just doused the lower segments in CA, sanded them to make sure everything was still toleranced right, and put everything back together. So yeah.. plastic coated wire makes a nice easy substitute for spring-pins. The plastic gives a nice bit of friction, without the destructive grinding of the metal teeth.
  4. Looks like it's back up at Okini, just checked it a moment ago... though don't know if they're updating at any particular rate.
  5. So this is going to be a massive necro, but I wanted to post a long-term update on this release, since so many experienced breakage in the box on their CF-171s. I'd ordered two of the RVF-171s when they came out, and only ever opened one. It had a shoulder cover that popped off easily from a stripped out screw, but otherwise was in good shape. I think I moved shortly after, and never got around to opening the second one. So, in the middle of cleaning up my storage room, I decided to finally peek in on Schrödinger's valk. I'm happy to report that both my RVF-171s are in perfect condition after almost seven years in their boxes. I didn't attempt to transform them (though I did one cycle with my Alto 171EX, which is in similarly good shape, and it was every bit as annoying as I remembered), but I did drop the legs to check the plastic on the knees, and replace the wings with the hardpointed ones. The silver plastic on the knees is scary looking. I cannot tell if it's cracked or not, but the metallic plastic they used has so many flow lines, it's really difficult to tell whether the knees would disintegrate under the slightest stress. I'll probably poke into my CF-171s later this week to see how they're holding up, just for laughs. Not going to lie, I'm expecting the experience to be something like this:
  6. Just got my shipping charge from Big In Japan, so my armor pack from there should be on its way soon!
  7. Either that, or they're some sort of bizarre Gantz crossover. Could also be thrusters I guess.. but I have a generally all-around bad feeling about introducing another five singing characters.. from somewhere. It's not like they didn't have enough characters still waiting for some form of development from the series..
  8. I think it's more the glasses. At that age, he'd more likely be purely gray, and the tint might be from his visor. Though.. whether he'd keep dyeing it blue forever does make a good question.
  9. Ok, but honestly, I'm tired of that mold. It's... iconic. That doesn't mean I think it's the best looking, or even second-best looking design since who knows when. I would much rather have M&M VF-31s, of any variant. The 29 isn't bad, it just feels like a worn-out design at this point, and it's nowhere near as fun to transform as the more modern ones, because it still falls back to your classic "Better clear-coat the nose or your paint is screwed" Frontier standard. And as much as I like the idea of them finally following through with the armor packs for the rest of Delta squad (MAYBE GET ON THE SUPERS FOR ARAD AND CHUCK ALREADY), those armor packs are.. I don't know a good word for them really. They're impressive in the animation, but much like the Spruce Goose, what looked really good on paper is far too obnoxiously oversized and massively over-encumbering to be enjoyable. However, if the armor packs are the only way I can get another batch of VF-31As... so be it.
  10. I think a related question would be how old Milia was during SDFM TV. They didn't grow up like normal humans to begin with, so who knows what her actual age is.
  11. I think the folding back hatch was a one-time thing for the VF-1D, so it could give enough room for the different shape and size of the chest plate, back plate, and canopy shield.
  12. Whoever that is might have gotten one of the armor-only sets as well. As for the comment about head-swapping being "difficult" I believe that comment was only about swapping between different valks. Mixing and matching heads between A/J/S versions isn't so simple because the necks are different, and you'd need to detach the entire swivel mount, rather than just pop the head off of its ball-joint. Gotta admit, that bundle package is pretty darn nice though, kind of makes me wish I'd sprung for the full set, but I already have three VF-1Js.
  13. I keep waiting for a 1/48 YF-21.. I know the YF-19 is more popular, but seriously. That 1/48 Black Aces kit looks beautiful, but I haven't built the Hasegawa Super/Strike kits I have already, and those boxes are massive.... Maybe just one.. Really though, practically speaking, I don't need to buy another VF-1 kit just for those decals. I've planned on dressing up one of my kits in the old Monogram VF-142 markings for years.
  14. So, shrinking the original eye image on the canvas is your problem, because shrinking a bitmap will gradually degrade the image as pixels get averaged. There are better ways to do this using vector drawings (which Paint cannot do), but what I would do is make your image in reverse. Start with the largest eye as your base, and then scale that one up to create all of your variations. That will result in a much larger pixel size for your base canvas, which will have to be scaled down to fit on the printed page, making the smallest eye at the same pixel density as your base image. Bottom line is you need your base image to have more pixels. If you stick with Paint, take the bottom right corner of the canvas, and drag it down to the right (scrolling when necessary) until the image no longer fits on your screen, and then zoom out, then just fill it with scaled up copies of your original eye. You can see the pixel dimensions of your image on the lower edge of the screen, and I would probably start at around 3000 x 2000 pixels. This is where your printer does come in. I think a typical printer's default setting is about 300 dpi? That's 300 pixels per inch, so for an 8.5 x 11 inch page, that's 2450 x 3300 pixels to start. That's probably the base size canvas you want to work on as a starting point if you don't want to see the pixels after printing.
  15. I think the issue is less about the paint program, and more the resolution settings on your printer. I haven't used it for a while, but I would think Paint should still be able to make nice images, if you set the DPI settings high enough in the print options. Edit: Checked Paint, and it doesn't give DPI settings, so that would mean you just need to draw the eyes bigger, so they're a higher pixel resolution on your screen, before letting the program shrink them to fit on a printed page.
  16. Can't argue there, especially in this day and age. I grew up with very few of the original Classic Space sets before everything moved to.. I think it was the "Futuron" and "Blacktron" or however it was termed then, followed by the original Space Police line, Magnetron, Ice Planet, etc.. I never had the ability to collect most of those, I just remember drooling over the designs, and using them for inspiration. I'd love to be able to go back and buy them all up now, but my LEGO collection has fallen to about third or fourth in line on my hobby expenditure priority list.
  17. Looked at all the pics, and sure, contract language is stupidly precise and specific, but I think trying to determine what the contract's stipulations are based on whether or not another planet is pictured in box art is just trying to dig deeper than it's worth. It's the 50,000 piece jigsaw puzzle that, once completed, produces a big flashing neon sign saying "GO OUTSIDE." From the consumer end, it doesn't matter what the contract says, what figures the sets contain, or what the box art shows, because we're going to get what the company decides to release, and no amount of pushpin and yarn theorycrafting is going to change that. I'm also pretty okay with that, because that's why LEGO bricks are awesome. We can just built what we want anyway.
  18. Honestly, I think they're just coming from the position of "Star Wars is our 'space' theme for now." Whether Disney is stipulating that in contract language is kind of irrelevant. I'm pretty sure there have been other space-themed sets since the license started, but it would not surprise me in the slightest if they sold horribly in comparison, and LEGO just decided they weren't worth the effort.
  19. Maybe if Bandai's going to sit on their YF-21, they can do a PF re-release? I'd probably pick up one or two, if they keep the price reasonable for the mold's age.
  20. I just got wind of this one, and might have to double dip, because that car mode with the closed cockpit is really slick, and I'm loving the colors.
  21. Those are new pylons though, and a whole lot larger than the ones that came with the Eta and Zeta. Looks like they can hold a lot more, just from the number of holes.
  22. Hmm.. more time to save.. but also closer to the holidays. 🤔
  23. Sheesh, why can't anyone ever just release nice 1/72 scale styrene everything? Though, forgive my ignorance if I'm forgetting some, I was under the impression that all of the previous kits were resin.
  24. If they release a Mylene VF-11MAXL I will be all over that. Heck, I would actually crack up if they made a Basara one too, and totally buy it. Now that that image is in my head, I also can't help imagining them doing a Ray/Veffidas VF-17 duo that works like the VF-31 two-seater that had extended foot pads for two people.
  25. That's really not a bad VF-25, chunky legs aside, but I'm not terribly interested in the Ranka figure. Can't say it isn't a really well done likeness, but I've already got a pile of 1/100 and 1/72 VF-25 kits to build.
×
×
  • Create New...