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Everything posted by Chronocidal

  1. Oh, now those I remember.. my dad had a few of those from ages ago, and if my memory serves me correctly, they should brush beautifully. Those old metal pop-caps bring back some good memories. I've still got a fair stash of Model Masters and normal Testors paints to go through, but you're right, my brushing experience with Tamiya acrylics hasn't been anything impressive so far. I might have to start importing more enamels.
  2. Same here, I haven't removed it, but I'm not planning on getting two. I'll be curious if they eventually cull the unpaid orders.
  3. Ok, that actually does look really good. I have my Bandai one packed away due to broken nacelles, but it does look almost dead-on for scale.
  4. True, I hadn't entirely forgotten about that one. The clear plastic just looks bad in general on almost every release I've seen, but at least the Ambassador deflector was all supposed to be blue. The Miranda does look nice though. If only they would release an Enterprise refit to go along with it.
  5. People seem to hate that one for whatever reason, but I've always found it fun. I have a soft spot for silly portal-based physics comedy, and the overarching plot wasn't terrible, it just wasn't very memorable.
  6. I'm ... cautiously excited for this, just to see where they go with it. I'm definitely seeing bits of Gurren Lagann, Samurai Champloo, and Kill La Kill in there. They're cycling it through several studios, so it's going to have bits and pieces from all over the anime landscape.
  7. The clear parts are pretty much adding insult to injury there, since the original Excelsior nacelles didn't even light up.
  8. Just from the reviews I've watched, I want to say the Nebula and Ambassador are probably on the good side of that bunch, but I can't remember anything about the Miranda at the moment. Sovereign I would throw to the bottom of the barrel there, because that one just disappointed me on every level, since it's one of my favorites that I considered grabbing. Misaligned windows galore, the aztec pattern looks like some quarter-assed waffle iron stamp that looks nothing like the actual ship, and the clear plastic warp grilles look incredibly cheap, both since you can see straight through them, and since they left them completely unpainted, despite including several solid parts of the nacelle in the mold.
  9. There are ways to do it.. but in the end, I wound up making parts to replace the hinges outright, returning them to the same design as the old Yamato 1/60 design, removing the high-speed mode. I think there are details about what I did further back in this topic, or a previous Arcadia YF-19 topic. I sent off a pattern to have metal hinge replacements cut. I don't think the metal ones can be done anymore, but I think POM plastic is still available from the site I did it with.
  10. It's not outright sales they're worried about, it's profit margins. They purposefully leave short-term money on the table by not supplying enough product to satisfy demand, but that also grants them a long-term ace in the hole if they ever decide to make more. They've been in business long enough to have a lot of numbers to plug into whatever mathematical algorithm they use to determine the most profitable and least risky production numbers and schedules. As painful as it is for the people who just want to buy toys, it means there's going to be continual demand for their products for decades to come. They're in it for the long haul. To clarify, this still doesn't in the slightest excuse how much of a dick move it is for them to STILL not have re-released Ozma's armor pack. I think somewhere in the back offices of Bandai there's a hidden executive suite where the big wigs sit around and watch ebay prices climb on giant monitors, basking in the inflated demand they've generated for things they just refuse to produce.
  11. So, as far as I understand, all of these extra pieces are to cover all of the variants that the Excelsior went through (short of the upgraded impulse engines that the Enterprise B got, but that's another kit). The model used in Star Trek III was very different from ST VI, including those different shuttle bay details, different impulse dome, and bridge. I'd expect all those tiny detail parts were also related to that refit. Edit - Actually, unless you have two separate upper saucer halves, I think you're locked into making the ST:III NX-2000 version. The refit for ST:VI had a dual set of impulse domes at the back of the saucer. Looks to be a nice breakdown of the distinguishing details in this discussion: http://www.trektoy.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2420&page=7
  12. You know what's odd to me about the canopy length.. I believe the HMR VF-1D actually had a proportionally longer one. Might be because they didn't have to worry about an opening canopy and heatshield fitting under the chest. It's not terrible, but it's pretty much the same as the Yamato 1/60 in that regard.
  13. Honestly? I'd just watch Cowboy Bebop. Tech level seems pretty similar, just with more pure space vessels and less mecha. Probably closer to the tech level in M+/M7 than Delta though.
  14. Chronocidal

    Hi-Metal R

    Reviewing Jenius's review at Anymoon, I believe he had a similar failure on at least one HMR VF-1 shoulder joint. I don't know if he ever found a solution for it.
  15. Fair, and looks like it just went on backorder, so looks like they intend to keep producing them.
  16. Thanks for this, HLJ had just enough in stock for me to grab a pair of them. Gotta have two after all, one for each player.
  17. Chronocidal

    Hi-Metal R

    Really doubtful there, the part that broke off is a metal ball on a pin, and the parts are small enough I don't think you would ever get the printed strength necessary to support the arm at that scale, at least not if you ever intended to transform it again. Might work for a fixed pose, though. If you have the tools, you might have more luck trying to make a new ball joint on a metal peg, and then drill into the shoulder to mount it, if there's room. Could even potentially tap the hole and screw a small screw into it, but I don't remember how thick the material you'd be drilling into is. We're probably talking on the scale of watch repair here.
  18. I actually never even had trouble with those, and I know why they use the gummy plastic for the long pointy bits. I've usually been able to get them reasonably straight with some massaging and hot air/water. The gummy wings wouldn't even be a problem if they locked solidly into the mounts, but there is just so much slop in how they "snap" in. "Slop" is really the best word that describes everything about the wings and their mechanism.. the lever is too weak to hold the wings open, the wings are too heavy for the sloppy mounts to maintain an open position, and the whole mess degrades more and more with every re-release of this ancient mold. It's still a huge step up from the old 70s toy, but it's sad watching every subsequent release get worse and worse.
  19. Ugh.. they really need to revise that mold and un-fubar it. It's a good starting point, but unless they want to rename it the "K" wing, they need to do something to fix the wings. And go back to the original chiseled nose. The stump is fugly.
  20. So, I think the original original design had lines drawn in pencil on it, and either not weathered/shaded at all, or done so subtly they never appeared on-camera. I don't mind the subtle panel lining so much on the major hull sections, but I think the saucer grid gets overdone in many cases. Worse yet is when Diamond Select's shoddy printing process prints the lines, and misaligns them. 😜
  21. The lack of panel lines is accurate though. It's a pretty hefty point of contention about the TOS Enterprise, but the filming model didn't actually have those sorts of details originally. The Polar Lights kits are pretty dead-on for accuracy. Even the 1/350 kit doesn't have much in the way of panel lines, and the ones that are there were so hotly debated that they tended to cause flame wars on modeling forums.
  22. The blue one might not hurt much, but I think Ozma will put some nasty damage on your wallet. Believe hat scheme was always the most expensive to get after release. On the flipside of that, I think everyone over-estimated how popular Isamu's scheme would be, because I remember those going on clearance.
  23. Given the issues they had with shipping, they may be trying to resolve those completely before any more packages go out. Sounded like they had some miscommunications about packing.
  24. I believe the heads are all just ball-jointed, and pop off rather easily. I know I removed all of my 1S and 1D heads to do a bit of work to tighten up the individual lasers. I can't speak about the necks being compatible though, never tried mixing and matching.
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