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Arcadia 1/60 SV-51 Ivanov


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2 hours ago, ChaoticYeti said:

Which adapter are you using for the Arcadia SV-51? The current zero one I have up? Any issues?

No, the stand adapter it comes with works fine with the current Zero adapter you have. The SV-51 stand adapter is clear and smaller, so it's not quite as obnoxious as the VF-0 stand adapter. Still, I wouldn't mind seeing a superior Yeti adapter that fits entirely underneath the fuselage. :)

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2 hours ago, anime52k8 said:

I've got one very important question; if you turn it upside-down, will the wings stay in place?

 

One of my wings won't anymore after I transformed it once. It all depends on how tight your joints are since there are no locking tabs, a huge oversight on Arcadia's part to reengineer.

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2 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

It's not a tab, it's a soft-detent in the hinge itself, you can feel it kinda click into position when it's fully unfolded at the mid-wing joint.

Okay, so that’s what you were referring to. Unfortunately that detent is not good enough as there is still some play left which allows the wing to swing upwards around 10 degrees or so. So it doesn’t keep the wing from moving when the plane is flipped upside down. But on the positive note, that detent will prevent the wing from fully flipping up.

I pulled it out of the box a few minutes ago and partially transformed the wing checking for that detent you mentioned. And sadly, now the left wing is even looser afterwards. So just after 2 wings transformations, my left wing joint can’t even hold its place anymore. There is a lot of wobble in it now :(

 

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Odd, the detent on mine is doing the job fine. Then again I haven't folded the wing out and back much, since it's sitting on my desk in battroid with the bum foot.

[Edit] Just bent the mid-wing hinges back and forth again, it's still very tight on mine, and I don't see it loosening up anytime soon. I actually need to hold both parts of the wing and apply force to get it to move.

The wing-root double hinges are even tighter. The only one that's not is the inboard most hinge that runs left/right, and that one has supports to keep it from flopping down.

Edited by Sanity is Optional
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44 minutes ago, ArchieNov said:

Okay, so that’s what you were referring to. Unfortunately that detent is not good enough as there is still some play left which allows the wing to swing upwards around 10 degrees or so. So it doesn’t keep the wing from moving when the plane is flipped upside down. But on the positive note, that detent will prevent the wing from fully flipping up.

I pulled it out of the box a few minutes ago and partially transformed the wing checking for that detent you mentioned. And sadly, now the left wing is even looser afterwards. So just after 2 wings transformations, my left wing joint can’t even hold its place anymore. There is a lot of wobble in it now :(

 

I'm not clear what you're referring to.

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5 hours ago, Sanity is Optional said:

Odd, the detent on mine is doing the job fine. Then again I haven't folded the wing out and back much, since it's sitting on my desk in battroid with the bum foot.

[Edit] Just bent the mid-wing hinges back and forth again, it's still very tight on mine, and I don't see it loosening up anytime soon. I actually need to hold both parts of the wing and apply force to get it to move.

The wing-root double hinges are even tighter. The only one that's not is the inboard most hinge that runs left/right, and that one has supports to keep it from flopping down.

Well I guess it boils down to QC inconsistencies. The right wing on mine is still tight. But again, since there’s no real locking mechanism for the wings, it mostly relies on the tightness of the joints.

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6 hours ago, ArchieNov said:

Well I guess it boils down to QC inconsistencies. The right wing on mine is still tight. But again, since there’s no real locking mechanism for the wings, it mostly relies on the tightness of the joints.

Yeah, more and more I think I'll just keep my copy and fix the foot issue with some epoxy and sandpaper.

Since all the joints are nice and tight.

Edited by Sanity is Optional
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On 9/7/2019 at 11:26 PM, Lolicon said:

Arcadia VF-0S is not pink. Not even a little bit. 

It's white:

2115697189_VF-0SPF0601.thumb.jpg.cce93226e9ac1dc5254e30f085e630f6.jpg

It came out looking kinda beige in my previous pic with the SV-51. 

869326587_IvanovFocker.thumb.jpg.aec2719c9f2130f00ef698080e9338b1.jpg

Color balancing is a fickle mistress. 

How did you you panel line the VF-0? Capillary effect won't work on those. I used Gundam marker and Tamiya X20 thinner but it's a tedious process.   

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6 hours ago, ArchieNov said:

Well I guess it boils down to QC inconsistencies. The right wing on mine is still tight. But again, since there’s no real locking mechanism for the wings, it mostly relies on the tightness of the joints.

So far, I've transformed my SV-51 through all 3 modes and back. So far, the only joint that's problematic is the one I mentioned in my earlier post (the joint on the piece of the wing that has the blue lens on it, the joint that connects it to the body). I used the floor polish fix to tighten it, and after waiting for it to dry, the polish seems to have hardened and tightened the joint. Happy with the SV-51. Looks awesome in all 3 modes. The fighter mode resembles a real-life fighter plane (the Sukhoi). The gerwalk mode with its wings articulated and feet-as-claws, it looks like a bird of prey. The battroid mode looks less like a humanoid and more an alien. Such a unique valk that stands in contrast with Kawamori's later designs which just seems so derivative, IMO.

I compared it to my Yamato copy the other day. The transformation gaps on the Arcadia version aren't as bad as the Yamato. I think these gaps exist to allow for some room for the parts to move into place instead of grinding into each other. The overall look seems more refined to me from the original, but only slightly. I would only recommend this valk if you're a fan of the design. The high price tag, coupled with the inconsistent QC that ArchieNov brought up, might not be worth it for non-fans. 

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22 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

Yeah, more and more I think I'll just keep my copy and fix the foot issue with some epoxy and sandpaper.

Since all the joints are nice and tight.

LOL, as drastic as your defect looks, you're wise to keep that copy and fix the foot. Pin joints are never 100% fixable, while you'll have a lot more success with sanding and epoxying the two pieces together. I'd rather have your defect than loose wing joints.

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Congrats to all. It will be a miss from my part though.Too many non-Macross stuff on my to-get lists , and Arcadia's prices are getting ridiculous (essentially for revised re-releases). Anyways, was tempted, but on display my 3 Yammies still look the part and holding on perfectly fine as I never or hardly ever transform my Valks (HMR being the exception...).

IMG_9629.JPG

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45 minutes ago, easnoddy said:

Is it just me or is the SV-51 pilot smaller than other 1/60 pilots?

As far as the Yammies are concerned they're pretty much exactly the same as any other 1/60. The VF-0D on the other hand does seem slightly smaller to me.

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3 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

Drip a small amount of Future floor polish into the joint, work it back and forth while floor polish dries. It's a wax, and it'll do a decent job of tightening up the joint.

Very nice. Thanks!

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3 hours ago, whitestar said:

I used the floor polish fix to tighten it, and after waiting for it to dry, the polish seems to have hardened and tightened the joint.

May I ask how you applied the floor polish? I want to tighten my loose joints too but they use those hollow type pins and I don't know where to apply the usual super glue or polish.

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2 hours ago, ArchieNov said:

May I ask how you applied the floor polish? I want to tighten my loose joints too but they use those hollow type pins and I don't know where to apply the usual super glue or polish.

So what I did was to drip a tiny bit into the gaps around the pin joint (I circled the areas in black with the attachment). Move the joint around, wait a while, then do it again a few hours later. Check back the next day to see how the joint is doing. Repeat as necessary. Make sure to clean up the area around the joint since floor polish can leave the plastic shiny. I use a little alcohol to wipe the floor polish off from the surrounding areas. I use a syringe to access those hard to reach places. You can get syringes from Amazon. 

Edit: probably a good idea to do this for all the joints that articulate the wings. Doesn't hurt the toy at all. It's a non-permanent solution, so you'll have to do this again as the polish will grind into dust with repeated use of the joint.

IMG_1513.jpg

Edited by whitestar
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10 hours ago, whitestar said:

So what I did was to drip a tiny bit into the gaps around the pin joint (I circled the areas in black with the attachment). Move the joint around, wait a while, then do it again a few hours later. Check back the next day to see how the joint is doing. Repeat as necessary. Make sure to clean up the area around the joint since floor polish can leave the plastic shiny. I use a little alcohol to wipe the floor polish off from the surrounding areas. I use a syringe to access those hard to reach places. You can get syringes from Amazon. 

Edit: probably a good idea to do this for all the joints that articulate the wings. Doesn't hurt the toy at all. It's a non-permanent solution, so you'll have to do this again as the polish will grind into dust with repeated use of the joint.

IMG_1513.jpg

Thanks! The joint you showed in your picture is actually the loose wing joint I was talking about, so your guide was perfect. Now I need to buy some floor polish. I don't think super glue will work here. Any particular kind of floor polish I should use?

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