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Yamato 1/60 VF-19S/F/P - All Variants


charger69

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I have one 19F that I thought was a lemon as well, and just wouldn't fit together right, but it actually came down to a very tiny bit of excess plastic in one of the tab slots that's hidden. Really, that's all it takes, a tiny bit of mold flash.

If you can pinpoint the exact point where the transformation gets sloppy, and fix that, the whole thing can come together surprisingly well afterward.

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I have one 19F that I thought was a lemon as well, and just wouldn't fit together right, but it actually came down to a very tiny bit of excess plastic in one of the tab slots that's hidden. Really, that's all it takes, a tiny bit of mold flash.

If you can pinpoint the exact point where the transformation gets sloppy, and fix that, the whole thing can come together surprisingly well afterward.

Thats what i this is going on with my hip joint but taking that apart is no joke. Screw hole covers are the main problem for me.

In other news i got my 19S!

CF7F17B9-1CAB-4490-8C1A-9E7912036520-439

0747AF68-7A9E-4320-A8E9-C28A9CCCC4A0-439

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Indeed, I have an S and F and thinking of getting another F to complete the squadron. But the price the 19S is going for I might get another one to try customizing it.

Anyone ever think of getting a 19P and customizing it to to it's "modded" state of Dynamite finale, it's the easiest custom ever, just spray paint red all over it. :lol:

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i see that you have a flight pose.

flightpose better or yamato mighty block #1 ?

if flight pose, which 2 size will u recommend? 2.5 + 4 ?

Thats what i this is going on with my hip joint but taking that apart is no joke. Screw hole covers are the main problem for me.

In other news i got my 19S!

CF7F17B9-1CAB-4490-8C1A-9E7912036520-439

0747AF68-7A9E-4320-A8E9-C28A9CCCC4A0-439

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Updated review is up at anymoon!

Yamato-VF-19P-10.jpg

The kai looks like he was slobbering all night didnt wash his face in the morning :D

i see that you have a flight pose.

flightpose better or yamato mighty block #1 ?

if flight pose, which 2 size will u recommend? 2.5 + 4 ?

I would recommend the 4" and 6" so you can still angle the valks but they will sit a little bit higher from the ground.

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Weren't the flexi display stands having a chemical reaction to the yamato valks? I really want them because they look awesome but I remember reading they melted the plastic.

The silicone tips can react to and strip paint. if you have the tips touching bare plastic they're fine.

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I sure I'm not allowed to make this comment firstly because the VF-19S is the only Yamato Valkyrie I own and secondly because the arguments has been brought up several times but non the less I'm not thrilled with the Gerwalk-mode. If it comes to the best Macross Valkyrie ever produced by Yamato I feel it should be a VF that can achieve all three modes in an outstanding fashion.

So more nitpicks that I haven't seen before.

- the material on the wings is so thin and sharp that it appears translucent in an environment with bright lights

- I really hate the black copyright labeling on the underside of the wings. Couldn't the find another place for those?

Other that that is its close to perfection and I'm very exited to have one. It's sitting on the prime spot on my desk and I can't stop gushing. Even if the VF-171CF comes out this month and the TF MP-11B is on the way I think both toys have to take a back seat on the shelfs until I'm finished admiring the Blazer. Well done Yamato! :)

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Don’t cry because it’s over. Smile because it happened.

I know it's kind of a stupid advice but you have to see the positive side of things. We got most of the VF we asked for from Yamato. Maybe Arcadia picks up the business or some other company. But since the VF-19 is build like a rock and (most importantly) not cast in a white color you can enjoy it a long time. :)

Until plastic becomes so valuable that your government is collecting all luxury goods made out of plastic to turn it into gas because there is no oil left on the world except plastic toys. :)

Hm I wonder how a Valkyrie made cast in plastic made from corn would handle like....

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Don’t cry because it’s over. Smile because it happened.

But since the VF-19 is build like a rock and (most importantly) not cast in a white color you can enjoy it a long time. :)

Only time will tell I guess...after all...don't some of these valk toys seem to disintegrate just sitting in their boxes? :(

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I haven't heard any issues regarding the VF-19 but the toy is pretty "new" so you never know. You can only hope that Yamato ramped up the production quality for this.

The only issue I can remember from the top of my head are unstable ball joints in the feet but those seem to come from attempting extreme (i.e. good looking ^_^ ) angles in Gerwalk-mode because the ball joints will get loose if you move them to much in their socket.

Edited by Scyla
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Only time will tell I guess...after all...don't some of these valk toys seem to disintegrate just sitting in their boxes? :(

The plastic on the 19's is different. The other two major issues are that the plastic is thin on the wings and can be easily bent/damaged (in addition to being a bit translucent as Scyla pointed out) and the Gerwalk joint in the thigh can be easily snapped, though it hasn't happened in awhile, because it only clicks down three times but seems like (and there should be... but that would further show how poorly designed the ankles are) a fourth click and there isn't.

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I haven't heard any issues regarding the VF-19 but the toy is pretty "new" so you never know. You can only hope that Yamato ramped up the production quality for this.

The only issue I can remember from the top of my head are unstable ball joints in the feet but those seem to come from attempting extreme (i.e. good looking ^_^ ) angles in Gerwalk-mode because the ball joints will get loose if you move them to much in their socket.

The joint on the right leg of my 19S that lets the legs swing out for an A-stance in battroid disintegrated into little crumbly bits. I'm honestly surprised it hasn't happened to anyone else. Even if it hadn't disintegrated not long after I got it, I wouldn't have been surprised if it had snapped under normal use instead of just being displayed in battroid mode. I don't really know how Yamato expected a small, thin hollow plastic rod to tolerate the stresses it undergoes when you move the legs around. I handle the legs on my F and P very gingerly now and only move the legs while holding the intake section and the back piece that connects the leg between my fingers and just hope the rods keeping the legs on on those don't also disintegrate. I need to learn how to make a replacement part in shapeways or something so my 19S can be useable in battroid mode again.

Edited by MacrossJunkie
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Only time will tell I guess...after all...don't some of these valk toys seem to disintegrate just sitting in their boxes? :(

That's the MW spirit! Freak out upon hearing Yamato's death, spend an incredulous amount of money bumrushing online stores and then worry about the valks melting into plastic goo in their boxes.

I approve. Now where's the future panic button?

/just having fun, no offense meant :)

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The joint on the right leg of my 19S that lets the legs swing out for an A-stance in battroid disintegrated into little crumbly bits. I'm honestly surprised it hasn't happened to anyone else. Even if it hadn't disintegrated not long after I got it, I wouldn't have been surprised if it had snapped under normal use instead of just being displayed in battroid mode. I don't really know how Yamato expected a small, thin hollow plastic rod to tolerate the stresses it undergoes when you move the legs around. I handle the legs on my F and P very gingerly now and only move the legs while holding the intake section and the back piece that connects the leg between my fingers and just hope the rods keeping the legs on on those don't also disintegrate. I need to learn how to make a replacement part in shapeways or something so my 19S can be useable in battroid mode again.

Can u show a picture of the broken part?

Im currently displaying my 19S in fghter mode, but it would be nice to know where i have to be carefull.

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MacrossJunkie wouldn't it be easier to create the part with modeling putty (instead of shapeways) and glue it in. A cylinder with a screw hole should do the job.

As far as I see it the broken part is not visible from the outside so it doesn't have to look good.

Maybe I'm getting the wrong expression from the pictures but for me it looks doable.

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I think that depends on the putty you're using but I'm no modeling expert so maybe check the modeling board here they might offer some advice. I thought you know more about modeling than I do because I always admired your customs.

The putty I used was pretty robust but also brittle.


Just to clarify things. There is a screw that goes from the fuselage into the intake area of the legs. This screw attaches the leg to the fuselage but also is a pivot point for the sideways leg movement. On your toy the mounting point for said screw is broken. So you need cylinder that has the same diameter as the round recess in the lags that has a screw thread in the middle to attach it to the fuselage.

If so that should be easy to create with a CAD program and a screw tap or you could cut it out of a piece of sturdy and flexible plastic (some old pieces made out of ABS or so).

Don't get me wrong I'm a novice regarding modeling and my model builder days are long over just had that thought on my mind and tried to figure out a way do fix my VF-19 if it breaks someday. *knock on wood*

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ok, I got my vf-19 Kai Fire Valk yesterday, and wow, not only was it fast shipping from HK Collectibles, but the toy is so heavy and beautiful, no pictures on the net can do it justice, as when you have it on hand, it is much nicer. Transformation was a bit hard, but with a couple of videos on youtube, I think I got it right. Man, what a beauty, now is my favorite valk of all time, and finally I have a leader to my squadron!!! Finally have the valk to my favorite macross Character.

I received the VF-19S too a few days earlier, but not sure if I will open yet, might keep it and sell it later. I sort of Panic bought it, but got over my budget, and can only keep it if I succeed in selling some of my old toys, or maybe wait till next year for opening it up until the coast is clear, as my wife would kill me ;). I was also debating if I should have gotten the vf-17S vrs the vf-19s, but it didn't get the same rave as the vf-19, which is really worth raving about.

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I think that depends on the putty you're using but I'm no modeling expert so maybe check the modeling board here they might offer some advice. I thought you know more about modeling than I do because I always admired your customs.

The putty I used was pretty robust but also brittle.

Just to clarify things. There is a screw that goes from the fuselage into the intake area of the legs. This screw attaches the leg to the fuselage but also is a pivot point for the sideways leg movement. On your toy the mounting point for said screw is broken. So you need cylinder that has the same diameter as the round recess in the lags that has a screw thread in the middle to attach it to the fuselage.

If so that should be easy to create with a CAD program and a screw tap or you could cut it out of a piece of sturdy and flexible plastic (some old pieces made out of ABS or so).

Don't get me wrong I'm a novice regarding modeling and my model builder days are long over just had that thought on my mind and tried to figure out a way do fix my VF-19 if it breaks someday. *knock on wood*

I'd bet you'd be surprised then if I told you I'm not really a modeler and far from an expert. I'm pretty much a newbie with regards to building and putting together kits. I mainly just learned to paint, panel line, weather, and clear coat my valks. My SDF-1 was the first kit I've officially assembled and completed myself.

I have some modelling putty, but it seems to be more for filling in gaps and seam lines and painting over it. It seems too brittle to use as a molded structure though and I would trust using that as much as I would trust using drywall for the same purpose. I don't know what other kinds of modeling putty is out there though.

I disassembled the legs on my 19F first to check on the plastic to make sure it wasn't crumbling and second to see if I could get the relevant piece off. I got all the screw out and the small part with the metal pin that the gerwalk joint relies on, but it seems to also be attached to the intake cover and I can't figure out how to pull the intake cover off. Anyone know how to get the intake cover off? It's the last piece that's preventing me from removing the part that's responsible for attaching the leg to the hip piece.

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I'd bet you'd be surprised then if I told you I'm not really a modeler and far from an expert. I'm pretty much a newbie with regards to building and putting together kits. I mainly just learned to paint, panel line, weather, and clear coat my valks. My SDF-1 was the first kit I've officially assembled and completed myself.

I have some modelling putty, but it seems to be more for filling in gaps and seam lines and painting over it. It seems too brittle to use as a molded structure though and I would trust using that as much as I would trust using drywall for the same purpose. I don't know what other kinds of modeling putty is out there though.

I disassembled the legs on my 19F first to check on the plastic to make sure it wasn't crumbling and second to see if I could get the relevant piece off. I got all the screw out and the small part with the metal pin that the gerwalk joint relies on, but it seems to also be attached to the intake cover and I can't figure out how to pull the intake cover off. Anyone know how to get the intake cover off? It's the last piece that's preventing me from removing the part that's responsible for attaching the leg to the hip piece.

I think in this case you probably just got really unlucky with a piece that wasn't cast right. I haven't heard of anybody else (fingers crossed) who has had that problem. It sucks, but I think you have a truly unique defect. It'll be interesting to see if your F also has the issue though I would be terrified to take any of these newer toys apart. You're a brave man.

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You could try two part epoxy type putties, the kind that comes as two separate slugs of extruded dough or the co-extruded variety that you have to knead together to activate. There are several brands out there such as Milliput or Aves or Kneadatite formulated with modeling in mind, to much stronger stuff that cures to a near metal-like strength and that can be found online or in Auto and Hardware stores.

If the intention is to bolster or reconstruct stress bearing structures, the stronger "professional" stuff would be advisable. Just bear in mind that two part putties are exothermic in nature and may soften or melt very thing plastic sections, so it is a good idea to test on a piece of like plastic before committing to repairing the toy to see if there is any adverse reaction between the putty's chemistry and the toy's ABS, or if the putty generates too much heat (this really should not be an issue since the amounts of putty involved are small...small volume=little heat but enclosed spaces will trap heat too, so better safe than sorry), and even if it does that can be mitigated by working is smaller amounts at a time or curing in the freezer.

Edited by mechaninac
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You could try two part epoxy type putties, the kind that comes as two separate slugs of extruded dough or the co-extruded variety that you have to knead together to activate. There are several brands out there such as Milliput or Aves or Kneadatite formulated with modeling in mind, to much stronger stuff that cures to a near metal-like strength and that can be found online or in Auto and Hardware stores.

If the intention is to bolster or reconstruct stress bearing structures, the stronger "professional" stuff would be advisable. Just bear in mind that two part putties are exothermic in nature and may soften or melt very thing plastic sections, so it is a good idea to test on a piece of like plastic before committing to repairing the toy to see if there is any adverse reaction between the putty's chemistry and the toy's ABS, or if the putty generates too much heat (this really should not be an issue since the amounts of putty involved are small...small volume=little heat but enclosed spaces will trap heat too, so better safe than sorry), and even if it does that can be mitigated by working is smaller amounts at a time or curing in the freezer.

I suppose I could give that a try. I'm not clear on how I would mold it to the right size and shape evenly though. Maybe if I tried to make a mold of a good piece with the putty, grease up the "mold", then pressing putty into that mold and then insert a screw for the screw hole? Can that be done with this type of epoxy putty?

I'm still trying to figure out how to get the intake cover off so that the piece can be removed. I've got no idea how it's even attached.

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I'm still trying to figure out how to get the intake cover off so that the piece can be removed. I've got no idea how it's even attached.

they are lightly glued into place.

if you have something (like a long fingernail) that you can wedge underneath the top leading edge,

you should be able to pop the panel free with a little effort.

careful though; unlike the 19k, the 19S' covers are fully painted, and the finish is easy to chip

along those edges you need to apply leverage to, even with a simple fingernail...

also, i'm starting to believe that your 19S' defect was in fact unique.

my own 19S has been through at least 20+ transformations since i received it,

and nothing has broke or shown any signs of doing so...

Edited by Shaorin
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