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checked my ray and he is good, have to wait till xmas to check my yellow. my stick however has cracks on both sides and has not been transformed!. I put a little drop of super glue with a toothpick to get into the crack, put a second teeny drop to coat it, hopefully that will strengthen that part and not cause it to break 

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Dangit, @tekering:D

I was just going to do my usual "paint the visor to make the HUD's display less visible" bit, but then I saw you do this beautiful addition:

On 12/2/2019 at 5:51 AM, tekering said:

Let the retrofitting commence!  :aggressive:

retrofitting.thumb.jpg.b09158cccc675714e986ab88f268b1f5.jpg

I liked that brighter color for the windshield and had to try that with my copy.

I first tried using just Tamiya Clear Orange on the windshield, but its already tinted color made it hard to see the painted orange (the final look went way beyond burnt orange).

Then I tried just painting the windshield burnished gold.  It looked alright, but it was a shade brighter than even the side headlights.

So, I added the Tamiya Clear Orange on top of the gold paint for this effect:

DSC_0539.JPG.051bc660023e4a34a30706d7bba264f3.JPG

Close enough match to the blinker lights on the chest.

 

And yeah, I finally used that Tamiya Clear Green (with a bit of Clear Smoke) to hide the HUD lines:

DSC_0532.JPG.4ff1a30fe374ebd2d02fb2def9b13159.JPG

It actually came out kinda darker than I'd like.  But under certain light it's still pretty translucent:

DSC_0535.JPG.722764ee51f57ff92a312169dda61964.JPGDSC_0534.JPG.32d7f1723c4f3c8a450d04860e32a229.JPG

More pics:

DSC_0538.JPG.9f6f2ab4f8ef9ed790919b7b12c00bd6.JPG

DSC_0537.JPG.44acfedc96e8d4eb0136c99c8b963697.JPG

The boys are settled into the display case and ready for the long wait for their red-armored girl:

DSC_0541.JPG.84449b531139e42b53d8250f5ca0fcda.JPG

Also, checked the above crew and thankfully didn't find any obvious cracks on those troubled joints. 

I usually find it easier to remove the arm gauntlets at the pistons/shock absorbers when I'm going between modes.  So, I wonder if doing that keeps some of the pressure off those particular joints? :unknw:

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5 hours ago, Mog said:

 

DSC_0541.JPG.84449b531139e42b53d8250f5ca0fcda.JPG

Also, checked the above crew and thankfully didn't find any obvious cracks on those troubled joints. 

I usually find it easier to remove the arm gauntlets at the pistons/shock absorbers when I'm going between modes.  So, I wonder if doing that keeps some of the pressure off those particular joints? :unknw:

Nice pic.  Mine had the stress mark and thinning out of the box.  The first time I rotated it, the stress mark was there, even before attaching it to the connecting point and the arm.  

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On 12/15/2019 at 9:29 AM, Roy Focker said:

My Yellow has either been sitting in a Japanese or US airport for 8 days without moving.

They send out an email right before it arrives to let you know they're expecting it soon. If you haven't gotten the email yet, then you're still more than a week away.

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54 minutes ago, beatsing said:

So did anyone take up the broken parts with Sentinel?  Did they respond?

 

 

 

It needs to be someone in Japan as this product doesn't have a US license. If anyone in Japan is noticing the issue, you should definitely send them a note. They might do something for the Yellow releases... for the other releases it's still good to let them know so they can have a sense for how wide spread it is.

I don't have my toy in front of me, is this even a part that could be replaced or would it take significant work?

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4 hours ago, jenius said:

It needs to be someone in Japan as this product doesn't have a US license. If anyone in Japan is noticing the issue, you should definitely send them a note. They might do something for the Yellow releases... for the other releases it's still good to let them know so they can have a sense for how wide spread it is.

I don't have my toy in front of me, is this even a part that could be replaced or would it take significant work?

It's look hard to replace, here are 2 pic from my Stick, my Rai it's perfect conditions.

 

IMG-2807.jpg

IMG-2808.jpg

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5 hours ago, jenius said:

It needs to be someone in Japan as this product doesn't have a US license. If anyone in Japan is noticing the issue, you should definitely send them a note. They might do something for the Yellow releases... for the other releases it's still good to let them know so they can have a sense for how wide spread it is.

I don't have my toy in front of me, is this even a part that could be replaced or would it take significant work?

Looks like it would need some specific tools.  Like @Perxion photos, there is a round headed screw/nail that holds it to the chest/crotch piece that doesn't pop out, and being flat, doesn't take a philips screwdriver, etc.  That cracked plastic piece connects to the metal arms that hold the guantlets, and the connector looks like a small pin.  Delicate looking pieces.  Some modellers might try, but taking it apart might be hard putting it back together.

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6 minutes ago, beatsing said:

Looks like it would need some specific tools.  Like @Perxion photos, there is a round headed screw/nail that holds it to the chest/crotch piece that doesn't pop out, and being flat, doesn't take a philips screwdriver, etc.  That cracked plastic piece connects to the metal arms that hold the guantlets, and the connector looks like a small pin.  Delicate looking pieces.  Some modellers might try, but taking it apart might be hard putting it back together.

Getting that "screw" with no head out is the trick. I think after that it would not be a big deal figure out a fix.

I'm not sacrificing one of mine to test the theory unless it breaks off 100% though.

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Those are usually large pins. Only way to easily remove them is to heat them directly with something like a soldering iron and then remove with pliers. It might break though. Prying it loose at room temp will guarantee to break the plastic. 
 

But basically, it will break if you try. I’ve never been able to do it successfully, and tried with a lot of junker transformer parts. 
 

unrelated, I still can’t get my return to Amazon Japan done properly. All the shippers are asking me for amazons account number to bill them and I’m like, why would I know that? 

Edited by jeniusornome
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3 hours ago, jeniusornome said:

Those are usually large pins. Only way to easily remove them is to heat them directly with something like a soldering iron and then remove with pliers. It might break though. Prying it loose at room temp will guarantee to break the plastic. 
 

But basically, it will break if you try. I’ve never been able to do it successfully, and tried with a lot of junker transformer parts. 
 

unrelated, I still can’t get my return to Amazon Japan done properly. All the shippers are asking me for amazons account number to bill them and I’m like, why would I know that? 

Let me know if you get it working.  Mine is in the mail and it better not be broken like the other one.  But if it is, I'll have to do a return too.

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If someone has a broken one that they are willing to take a risk with I could get it apart and try to come up with a fix. I can't guarantee anything of course. But I can machine out of just about any metal and I have a sub contractor that can 3D print for me. Well, I guess I can guarantee I can create a fix. I can't guarantee I can create a affordable fix.

Heck, I could re-create the entire thing in 1/2 scale made entirely out of metal for enough money.;)

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@jeniusornome I think you're right, it looks like a large pin that isn't removable without breakage.  The pin on the other side looks like it could be removed with a really tiny pin and hammer, but it might also break.  Shucks.  I really like Yellow but I don't wanna be stuck with a toy with stress mark that is very probably going to break.  

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5 minutes ago, beatsing said:

@jeniusornome I think you're right, it looks like a large pin that isn't removable without breakage.  The pin on the other side looks like it could be removed with a really tiny pin and hammer, but it might also break.  Shucks.  I really like Yellow but I don't wanna be stuck with a toy with stress mark that is very probably going to break.  

 

1 minute ago, beatsing said:

@sqidd wow. Mine isn't broken yet, but a few here have broken parts who might try your suggestion.

Yeah, I don't think that pin can be removed without wrecking some stuff. Off the top of my head I would go after completely removing the pin with a drill or a mill cutter. Depends on how hard it is to jig the figure (or at least part of it) up. If I could jig it up it would be a piece of cake to erase that pin with a mill cutter. Creating a new fastener or even finding one to replace it is easy peasy. The offending broken/breaking clasp/swivel mechanism wouldn't be difficult to make out of aluminum (it would be nice to have something not bling-y though) in the sense that making a CAD file would be cake. It would require a lot of machine operations though (that means more time and time = money). I'd have to get deep into it to see how things really shook out. It's also not that expensive anymore to 3D print aluminum. Especially stuff that small. That would be something I can look into. I want to have that technology in my back pocket at some point anyway.

 

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2 minutes ago, Darth Mingus said:

Why settle for 1/2 scale when you can make a working, life size version?

I could make a fully operational motorcycle that 95% perfect without straining too much brain power or creativity. I've done more than a few custom motorcycles. I've done all my screwing up/learning already. I'd even do the bodywork out of carbon fiber. Yes, I have put some thought into this before now:D. I'm thinking 400-425lb sans fuel and about 150-160hp. It could stop and turn at the same level as a mid 2000's Superbike.  It will not transform into armor though.;)

All it takes is time and money. Unfortunately I won't have the time for 8-10yrs (when I'm hopefully retiring). It's one of the projects percolating in the brain pan. I also want to do a 60's Ford F-100 "Steam Punk" build too. Modern drivetrain, modern chassis, A/C, cruise control, well sorted comfy suspension and 800 or so rear wheel horsepower. With the reliability to drive across the country if I wanted to.

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3 hours ago, sqidd said:

I could make a fully operational motorcycle that 95% perfect without straining too much brain power or creativity. I've done more than a few custom motorcycles. I've done all my screwing up/learning already. I'd even do the bodywork out of carbon fiber. Yes, I have put some thought into this before now:D. I'm thinking 400-425lb sans fuel and about 150-160hp. It could stop and turn at the same level as a mid 2000's Superbike.  It will not transform into armor though.;)

All it takes is time and money. Unfortunately I won't have the time for 8-10yrs (when I'm hopefully retiring). It's one of the projects percolating in the brain pan. I also want to do a 60's Ford F-100 "Steam Punk" build too. Modern drivetrain, modern chassis, A/C, cruise control, well sorted comfy suspension and 800 or so rear wheel horsepower. With the reliability to drive across the country if I wanted to.

Cool. Before your retirement, perhaps -- Kaneda's bike? ;)

 

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4 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

Cool. Before your retirement, perhaps -- Kaneda's bike? ;)

 

That's a LOT of bodywork!:D And those seeping lines are a lot more work (work I'm no expert in).  I did a bike for Jordan a long time ago. Lots of sweepy bodywork. Ended up going to a composites design firm that scanned the entire motorcycle into CAD. The bodywork was then re-shaped in CAD then the company made it to spec out of carbon fiber. That was Jordan money making that happen. I don't have that sort of budget.:o

The Cyclone's bodywork is actually pretty easy to pull off by hand. And there isn't much of it.

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Finally, a "more perfect" Mospeada replica bike--from Harley Davidson?!?  :blink:

pan-america-jpg__454103_.jpg?content=1, vr-052f-ride.jpg

Did a bit of a double-take when I happened upon this pic.  The H-D "Pan-America' ADV bike appears to be slated for 2020 release.  With some aesthetic changes to the front windscreen; rear of the seat; the exhaust pipe....

 

 

OIP.Cj6KM7GKK3jdMqbMJl5nAwHaE8?w=300&h=2, NEW-Robotech-Genesis-Climber-Mospeada-Ra

 

The US-spec version will have a big ol' 1250 cc engine stuffed in its frame.  But what if it were optimized for light weight and handling, with something like a 500 cc powerplant, eh? 

Edited by reddsun1
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On 12/17/2019 at 8:59 PM, no3Ljm said:

Cool. Before your retirement, perhaps -- Kaneda's bike? ;)

 

Being that it is 2019 (soon to be 2020), I haven't seen any replicas of Kaneda's bike with the proper electric drive.  Granted, I haven't been looking that hard to see if anyone has made one though.  I'm thinking gas or LNG engine generator with electric drive?

The MOSPEADA confuses me.  It sounds like an some type of internal combustion engine, but exactly is HBT anyway?

 

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6 hours ago, reddsun1 said:

Finally, a "more perfect" Mospeada replica bike--from Harley Davidson?!?  :blink:

pan-america-jpg__454103_.jpg?content=1, vr-052f-ride.jpg

Did a bit of a double-take when I happened upon this pic.  The H-D "Pan-America' ADV bike appears to be slated for 2020 release.  With some aesthetic changes to the front windscreen; rear of the seat; the exhaust pipe....

 

 

OIP.Cj6KM7GKK3jdMqbMJl5nAwHaE8?w=300&h=2, NEW-Robotech-Genesis-Climber-Mospeada-Ra

 

The US-spec version will have a big ol' 1250 cc engine stuffed in its frame.  But what if it were optimized for light weight and handling, with something like a 500 cc powerplant, eh? 

If I were to make one as a replica (I've thought a lot about this and may still do it) I would start with a Ducati Monster. One of the 4v liquid cooled 140hp motor equipped models (pictured below). That's because you can get them pretty cheap. It's getting chopped up anyway. No need to start with a pricey bike.

If in fantasyland I was making one that would turn into armor and had to use a internal combustion engine (it would also need a lot of battery power) something like a minimum twin cylinder two stroke would a pretty good power plant. Light, simple, powerful, etc. But really if we're talking about fantasyland electric would be the best way. Assuming we had some alien technology level batteries to work with. Ours are not nearly energy dense/light enough (and probably never will be).

Under no circumstances would I do one that said Harley Davidson anywhere on it.:p

Monster-1200-Red-MY18-02-Model-Preview-1

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  • azrael changed the title to Mospeada

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