Urashiman

Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

5,740 posts in this topic

Not sure if I'll let any go at the moment. It's ship, ships, ships, and ships. Still have two megaroad ships, two Valhalla ships, and a bunch more...it took forever for some of them to find including the wondefest cv class ships

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Thanks, I thought it was the Valhalla frigate. I almost got it just for the cool tiny fighters! - MT

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Today's lesson at the paint bench.....apparently you can't decant and airbrush Tamiya Fine Surface Primer.... It didn't go well. Guess I'll just have to keep using it out of the can. Hard to do on complex shapes. Was hoping for an easy airbrush solution. Thoughts???

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Today's lesson at the paint bench.....apparently you can't decant and airbrush Tamiya Fine Surface Primer.... It didn't go well. Guess I'll just have to keep using it out of the can. Hard to do on complex shapes. Was hoping for an easy airbrush solution. Thoughts???

Have you tried something like Mr. Surfacer 1200 thinned with a lacquer thinner?

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The project I was working on back in post 2638 is done.

A couple of new issues I'd never run in to:

- the electrical tape I used for the masking left residue on the turret that WOULD NOT be removed. Warm water + soap? No. Light sanding with water? No. Goo Gone? Disastrous no.

Several places online suggested Goo Gone as a safe removal tool. I tested it on the underside of the turret, and all it did was turn whatever it touched into goo. Paint was smudged and removed, and the residue was just smeared into an even worse condition. What do you experts usually do in this situation?

- The new Testor's dull coat I used after the gloss + decal application left the model just as glossy as it had been prior. I decided to re-gloss the turret, then use the old nearly empty dull coat can I was about to throw away, and that actually gave me good results. Incidentally, these 4 top coats also eliminated most evidence of the masking residue mentioned above...so I guess that's a silver lining.

Here's my Sherman Elephant, Turret dull coat still drying:

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Basic Tamiya M4A3E2 Jumbo, with side armor plates left off and turret scratch build from sheet styrene and surface detailed cribbed from the Jumbo.

Barrel travel lock and muzzle brake stolen from a Dicker Max.

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- the electrical tape I used for the masking left residue on the turret that WOULD NOT be removed. (...)

I've found duct tape also leaves a nasty residue on things (thankfully it wasn't a model).

Have you tried using the straight edge of a credit card and warming the adhesive with a hairdryer just before scraping?

Edited by sketchley
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Tamiya tape, the only way to mask.

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I second the Tamiya masking tape!

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Have you tried something like Mr. Surfacer 1200 thinned with a lacquer thinner?

I've had good results with Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr. Color leveling thinner.

Tamiya tape, the only way to mask.

Agreed. The blue 3M masking tape is pretty good, too.

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Thanks guys, guess I'll change my masking product.

I didn't try the CC trick, I'll remember that if there is ever a next time.

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Tamiya masking is absolutely the only way to go on most projects. I did try clear scotch not long ago where I had a situation where I needed to cut along a curved panel line so I could see what I was doing. Worked pretty well actually.

No I haven't tried Mr. anything because it's impossible to get where I live. Guess I'll order some next time I do a mail order paint order.

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Finally finished the Battletech Longbow CB/AAD (Counter-Battery/Anti-Aircraft Defense):

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Comments and criticism welcome.

Kenny

I like this kitbash !!!. A little bit of everything and voilá... a fully operational battroid custom model !!

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Primary build is done, puttied what needs to be puttied. Sand tomorrow probably, then on to prime and paint; probably about a month's work there.

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Very nice! I have that kit too... but when I got my 1/3000 Yamato, I quickly lost interest in it. Can't wait to see you paint that baby up.

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Finished off the HG V2 Gundam.

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Parts of this kit were extremely fiddly (specifically the arms), and the weak torso joint, moving backpack parts and elbow/shoulder armour make it a real challenge to get it posed in a half-decent looking pose.

The core fighter that comes with the kit was also disappointing - no moving parts, and, surprisingly, no sticker for the canopy glass!

The good parts of the kit are the faithful reproduction of the arms (even though they are fiddly), and the moving parts of the backpack and feet.

Aside from panel lining/light weathering, the kit is unpainted/unmodified.

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Finished off the HG V2 Gundam.

attachicon.gifVgun01.jpgattachicon.gifVgun02.jpg

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Parts of this kit were extremely fiddly (specifically the arms), and the weak torso joint, moving backpack parts and elbow/shoulder armour make it a real challenge to get it posed in a half-decent looking pose.

The core fighter that comes with the kit was also disappointing - no moving parts, and, surprisingly, no sticker for the canopy glass!

The good parts of the kit are the faithful reproduction of the arms (even though they are fiddly), and the moving parts of the backpack and feet.

Aside from panel lining/light weathering, the kit is unpainted/unmodified.

I used to have this kit and regret not keeping it (got lost between CA & KS). I remember it being a bit fiddly myself, still its size alone makes it a great MS kit!

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I've been trying to get off my lazy ass and start building again the last few days. And coincidentally, it's the same kit as Jefuemon's!

I'd started this one a few years ago, but didn't get very far with it. So far, I've just been doing assembly on the main sections, leaving the smaller bits in the box for now. It's already taking some work getting gaps filled (with epoxy putty and surfacer) and adjusting the fit on a few parts.

I'm hoping I haven't bitten off more than I can chew with this one, seeing as I haven't finished a kit in years now. I'd hate to end up ruining such an expensive kit. But I feel better knowing that it'll be damn near worthless once the Hasegawa version is out next year :p

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But I feel better knowing that it'll be damn near worthless once the Hasegawa version is out next year :p

I think that's the reason I've been seeing many of the 1/3000 Yamato assembly kits popping up on Yahoo Japan auction recently.

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Started priming and painting. Shouldn't take me as long as I thought it would. Lately, I'd been having problems with my masking removing the prime and paint job on resin kits, so this one I thought I'd just stick with Mr. Surfacer instead of Mr. Resin Primer. Mr. Surfacer seems to be sticking a lot better than Mr. Resin Primer ever did, which is weird since you'd think it'd be the other way around.

Sorry, but no more pics until I'm finished. B))

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BESTINE is a band-name "thinner" for reducing rubber cement. We use it all the time to get tape, hot melt glue residue and pricetag goo off of items. Might be worth a shot. Cans are about $9.ooUS at places like Michaels, Hobby Lobby and art supply stores.

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Decided to take out the Spartan I was working on a long time ago. I wanted to lighten up the panels so I did that, just to shade them again O_o

Its the old Bandai 1/72,, and a LOT of filler

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Edited by pfunk
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I've got that kit in my to be built pile...as much putty and sanding as I'm having to do with my Monster, I'm not looking forward to the Spartan! Your's is looking good though!

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1/144? Or is that a big pot of tamiya. I ended up with the 1/72 Esci sea harrier and a marine hasegawa version coming across the pacific. :)

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besides my SDF-1 Macross TV, im working on this among other things!!

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Is that Tamiya's Type 74? I have one of those waiting in the HLJ Private Warehouse. :D

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1/144? Or is that a big pot of tamiya. I ended up with the 1/72 Esci sea harrier and a marine hasegawa version coming across the pacific. :)

This is the 1/72 Esci GR 3. Despite the "laser nose", it's a small bird, shorter than an F-16.

The kit has fairly good surface details, but be prepared for some putty work to blend in the forward section. I also lengthened the nose about 2 mms.

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Thanks for the heads up. I would like to see your progress, mostly with the decals. I have after market markings but I will save them for another kit if the esci decals work well for you.

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The small decals look pretty blurred, so I'm actually interested in aftermarket sets myself. There's also no decal for the explosive cord in the canopy, but I noticed it isn't that prominent on the earlier Harriers anyway, so I'll just leave that off.

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Is that Tamiya's Type 74? I have one of those waiting in the HLJ Private Warehouse. :D

yea it is... i simply love that model!!

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So this f*cking bullsh*t happened today....was moving the diorama and the Invid fell off and hit the tile floor. Not a good moment. What really sux is some of the paint chipped off all the way down to the resin, that's gonna be damn near impossible to fix. FML

*update---after getting some sleep and taking a look, I think I can put Humpty Dumpty back together again. All the parts that came off broke at the connection point, nothing snapped irregularly, so all in all...could have been worse! My own stupid fault for not moving the Invid separately from the diorama.

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Edited by derex3592
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Looks like you dodged the majority of those bullets

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Just finished up a commission build Tomcat.

Kit is the 1/48 scale Academy F-14.

Robbed the GE engines off of an old F-14B kit I built back in 2004 that got junked

Decals are from the fightertown decals sheet.

Used putty to create the GE engine fairings. I didn't modify the tops of the engine barrels (shouldn't be any panel lines on F-14B/D engine barrels), but I did fill in the ones on the bottom.

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Thanks, Micky!

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