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6 hours ago, RavenHawk said:

Thank you for posting this. I hadn't seen any of this before.

 

Does anyone know if there is any confirmation that the Toynami accessories are different (i.e. less included) than the B2Five ones? I seem to remember Japanese listings including accessories that were not explicitly shown in the BBTS pre-order, but may be misremembering.

I think that was brought up just a few pages back. The American pictures didn’t seem to show the hand options shown in the Japanese pictures and maybe there was some questions I had over the weapon accessories. I don’t think I found a definite answer though. I have the Japanese ones on preorder as a precaution in case the American ones are lacking in option parts.

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6 hours ago, sumyumgoy said:

CDJapan is currently offering a 1,111 off 10,000 JPY coupon good until 11/12.

https://www.cdjapan.co.jp/campaign/coupon/2021_1111

Brings down the cost of Bartley just a little bit more. 

Also, Amazon Japan lowered their price a bit as well.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/gp/product/B09KN2YXJ5/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's now 19,566 JPY (instead of 22,000) but my original order actually went all the way down to 18,735 JPY before shipping.

 

yeah, that extra 1111 yen off from CDJapan does make it very temping to get a second one. But...

  •  
  • Cancellation and modifications to an order are NOT possible after the application of a coupon.
  • The promotion is limited to one coupon per customer.
  • Points will not be accumulated for the discounted portion of your order after redeeming a coupon.

 

So If I add this to a new order, I probably wont be able to combine it with my exciting order to save on shipping..  they might not let me cancel this order either.. ;)

 

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5 hours ago, sqidd said:

I know I have a toy problem when I don't like the Sentinel Ride Armors (which I don't have) as much as the Beagles (which I have three of)..............but I still have to fight with myself not to smash that PO button!:rofl:

I know the feeling...gotta scratch that itch lol.

2 hours ago, F360 said:

*snip*

So If I add this to a new order, I probably wont be able to combine it with my exciting order to save on shipping..  they might not let me cancel this order either.. ;)

 

Good catch!  Yea, it's kind of hard to tell if you can combine it.

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This figure is such a beauty. Still available at such a good price from several vendors, too. HLJ mailing brought it to my attention. 

Too bad my PO moneys for this year are all spent on that 5PRO voltron. No more happy,  until next year. 

I'm just cheering you guys on, those who have preordered. 

Looking forward to your pictures when items are in your hands.  :drinks:

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29 minutes ago, f-valk said:

This figure is such a beauty. Still available at such a good price from several vendors, too. HLJ mailing brought it to my attention. 

Too bad my PO moneys for this year are all spent on that 5PRO voltron. No more happy,  until next year. 

I'm just cheering you guys on, those who have preordered. 

Looking forward to your pictures when items are in your hands.  :drinks:

This is going to get released April of next year so if you preorder it from HLJ, then you're not paying extra anything end of this year. Just saying if you want to be happy next year. And you're going to pay it MSRP and not after-market price. ;) 

 

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I've already missed out on the PO & release for her teammates. And I'm not looking to pay Valk secondary market money for the group. I would spend that money on dx valks,  though. 

Damn this hobby.  :rofl:

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18 minutes ago, f-valk said:

I've already missed out on the PO & release for her teammates. And I'm not looking to pay Valk secondary market money for the group. I would spend that money on dx valks,  though. 

Damn this hobby.  :rofl:

Ah. Priorities. ;)

Well, just so you know you didn't miss it out yet since hers is still open at HLJ. You know, just in case you change your mind. :rolleyes:

https://www.hlj.com/1-12-scale-riobot-genesis-climber-mospeada-vr-038l-fuke-type-bartley-set88053

 

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The mudguard might just be a matter of snapping it back into place.  Have to see the condition of the portions that connect to the wheel base.

The grey joint that sheared off, you’ll probably have to ask one of our modeling experts here to give you the best advice on what to use.  Not sure superglue would be able to hold up to all the stress that part must go through.

The blue headlight/shoulder armor I believe just needs to be popped back onto that grey part’s ball joint (the small broken bit in your pic).

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Hi, Captain america and any modeling experts in here, I need your advice. Do you think it is appropiate to fix the cracks by filling the gap with Tamiya Putty? Is it strong enough to hold up the stress? Which type of Tamiya Putty will you recommend? Or any other way of fixing will you recommend? Any suggestion will be appreciated. Thanks.

Crack_1 (2).jpg

Crack_2 (2).jpg

Tamiya Putty.jpg

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14 hours ago, Mog said:

The mudguard might just be a matter of snapping it back into place.  Have to see the condition of the portions that connect to the wheel base.

The grey joint that sheared off, you’ll probably have to ask one of our modeling experts here to give you the best advice on what to use.  Not sure superglue would be able to hold up to all the stress that part must go through.

The blue headlight/shoulder armor I believe just needs to be popped back onto that grey part’s ball joint (the small broken bit in your pic).

@Mog, TY!

On 11/13/2021 at 3:15 PM, blackconvoy_D01 said:

Hey all. How easy of a fix are these breaks, or should I wait for a reissue?Screenshot_20211113-151336_OfferUp.jpg.66b3aee1aaa94b6dc881c9bb7399fd20.jpg

@captain america, hi can you make a fix recommendation please?

 

Screenshot_20211114-170552_OfferUp.jpg.87ff757f010151d54f846af983b8d30a.jpg

 

 

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2 hours ago, blackconvoy_D01 said:

 

@captain america, hi can you make a fix recommendation please?

 

 

 

 

That's a challenging fix. If you had the dexterity, a small enough drill bit and same diameter brass/steel rod, you could reinforce the snapped ball-joint, but it would still be very fragile. Ideally, I would push-out the rivet that's still on the fairing, have someone 3D print the broken part in a tougher material and use that as a replacement. At the core, this is a materials problem that Sentinel needs to address, because as you can see from the pressed rivets, the toys aren't made to be disasembled and if someone doesn't have the skills to perform that kind of repair, it will only make the problem worse.

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6 hours ago, Masked Aviator said:

Hi, Captain america and any modeling experts in here, I need your advice. Do you think it is appropiate to fix the cracks by filling the gap with Tamiya Putty? Is it strong enough to hold up the stress? Which type of Tamiya Putty will you recommend? Or any other way of fixing will you recommend? Any suggestion will be appreciated. Thanks.

Crack_1 (2).jpg

Crack_2 (2).jpg

Tamiya Putty.jpg

The only "putty" that could work to fix those rips would be one created from a similar grade and color of ABS dissolved with liquid plastic weld (Ambroid, etc.), by submerging ABS shavings in the weld to make your own ABS paste; this paste, in turn, once properly applied, would not only fill the cracks and bridge the gaps but also melt itself into the part and become one with it.

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1 hour ago, captain america said:

That's a challenging fix. If you had the dexterity, a small enough drill bit and same diameter brass/steel rod, you could reinforce the snapped ball-joint, but it would still be very fragile. Ideally, I would push-out the rivet that's still on the fairing, have someone 3D print the broken part in a tougher material and use that as a replacement. At the core, this is a materials problem that Sentinel needs to address, because as you can see from the pressed rivets, the toys aren't made to be disasembled and if someone doesn't have the skills to perform that kind of repair, it will only make the problem worse.

Cool, thanks @captain america. So what if I heated a modded safety pin  Through both ends of the broken pieces let it dry and do it that way? 

 This is not my toy, btw; this is a piece I'm thinking about buying. I'm either gonna buy it or I'm gonna wait to see if there's gonna be another reissue. I appreciate your insights though.

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On 10/8/2021 at 11:50 AM, SuperHobo said:

My copy of the reissue, the wings don't fall off anymore, ankle joints are much tighter, shoulders are still tight, but not INSANELY tight like the first release. Landing gear is also easier to pull out. Only nitpick was out of the box the hip bar in armo-solider did not lock as solidly as my red and green copy. After taking a little kiki joint fixer, it holds now like it should. 

Any way to tell the reissue from the original?

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1 hour ago, blackconvoy_D01 said:

hi can you make a fix recommendation please?

6 hours ago, Masked Aviator said:

Or any other way of fixing will you recommend?

In both your cases, guys, you're dealing with small parts that have failed under stress.  No attempt to repair these parts is likely to adequately strengthen them.

As Captain America has suggested, the only viable solution is to replace them with new parts.  As I've dabbled with silicon molding in the past, I've had success replacing broken joints in Transformers with reproductions made of more resilient materials.  It's a complicated process, but getting a replacement part designed and produced on a 3D printer is equally complicated.

Either way, you've got to remove rivets embedded in plastic, which is a pain in-and-of-itself.

4 hours ago, blackconvoy_D01 said:

So what if I heated a modded safety pin  Through both ends of the broken pieces let it dry and do it that way?

That could hold the piece together for display, but probably wouldn't survive a transformation.

4 hours ago, blackconvoy_D01 said:

I'm either gonna buy it or I'm gonna wait to see if there's gonna be another reissue.

I wouldn't buy a broken toy, unless I had no intentions of playing with it.

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8 hours ago, tekering said:

In both your cases, guys, you're dealing with small parts that have failed under stress.  No attempt to repair these parts is likely to adequately strengthen them.

As Captain America has suggested, the only viable solution is to replace them with new parts.  As I've dabbled with silicon molding in the past, I've had success replacing broken joints in Transformers with reproductions made of more resilient materials.  It's a complicated process, but getting a replacement part designed and produced on a 3D printer is equally complicated.

Either way, you've got to remove rivets embedded in plastic, which is a pain in-and-of-itself.

That could hold the piece together for display, but probably wouldn't survive a transformation.

I wouldn't buy a broken toy, unless I had no intentions of playing with it.

You may be correct about rendering a broken part in 3D being equally complicated. Assuming the broken part could be successfully removed from the toy and temporarily glued back together with CA glue, a silicone mold of the part could be made and then new parts could be cast in a stronger material. Either way, the cost would likely be prohibitive, and while certain resins are made to reproduce the physical properties of ABS in the short-term, the dirty secret with some resin products is that they will eventually turn brittle themselves over time. 

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18 hours ago, captain america said:

Those parts look like ABS or something similar. Putty won't bond to it and it will constantly crack. Ideally the part should be replaced. I think this is something that 3D printing can do well, provided that something tough (nylon?) is used.

Thank you Captain.

14 hours ago, mechaninac said:

The only "putty" that could work to fix those rips would be one created from a similar grade and color of ABS dissolved with liquid plastic weld (Ambroid, etc.), by submerging ABS shavings in the weld to make your own ABS paste; this paste, in turn, once properly applied, would not only fill the cracks and bridge the gaps but also melt itself into the part and become one with it.

Thank you Mechaninac. Sounds very technical for me. I will try to figure it out how to do it.

Edited by Masked Aviator
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1 hour ago, levzloi said:

Do not fall into the trap of "GOTTA HAVE IT NOW".   I made sooooo many poor purchases that I regret in my first 6 months collecting.  Be patient, it will come up for sale somewhere and at a reasonable rate.

Definitely! Thank you. I had them before for a tiny bit; now with Fuke coming out- sellers regret, but I'm optimistic reissues are abound.

Edited by blackconvoy_D01
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10 hours ago, Masked Aviator said:

Thank you Mechaninac. Sounds very technical for me. I will try to figure it out how to do it.

The following video tutorial illustrates a similar process to what I described; the intended application is different, but the making of the ABS paste would be almost the same... unfortunately you're denied the convenience of an ABS sprue tree to cannibalize:

 

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16 hours ago, mechaninac said:

The following video tutorial illustrates a similar process to what I described; the intended application is different, but the making of the ABS paste would be almost the same... unfortunately you're denied the convenience of an ABS sprue tree to cannibalize:

 

Thanks Mechaninac. I will see if I can handle it or not. I also have another idea to  reinforce the connection: to glue a thin stainless steel “plate” under the two separated parts. Such plate may be customed from some photo-etched parts. The difficulty is that it is a curved surface, as you can see from above pictures. So may be I need to glue a small portion of metal rod with appropriate curvature? I don’t know.

Edited by Masked Aviator
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