Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[arbit]

Managed a 1/15 diamond.

[MechTech]

Those figures look AWESOME NZEOD! The white one sitting in the cockpit looks like he was Photo Shopped in!

Valhary - That is a cool concept and I look forward to seeing it done. By the way, you can flush mount and paint the magnets to help hide them where possible. I like your idea!

Nyankodevice - What model is that? It looks similar to the other one you did in design. That's a cool looking tank. Is it SD?

Arbit, those colors are new to me too as undercoats. They look great all the same. My last modelers club meeting theme was "Reel Models" - anything from TV or movies. We all brought in military hardware and this guy brings in all sorts and scales of movie cowboy figures from 1/6 busts down to 1/48th scale figures on horseback. He only uses cheap acrylics and his stuff looked awesome! He won the award that night too. I wonder if he uses some of those same effects? Nice diamond!

I forgot to take photos of the main mecha body, but I'm working on an original Takara 1/48 Ironfoot / Hasty from Dougram (Gartan from the Revell Robotech line). I had the kit when I was a kid and hastily built it (my Macross models got all the attention) and since the kit I just bought is getting so rare and expensive to buy, I wanted to add detail to this one. The hatch opens exposing the cockpit so you can see everything inside it. I thought it would be cool to use fiber optics in the cockpit so I went that route. I was just using toy quality fiber so it kept breaking despite watching the angles (I used to fabricate fiber cables in communications systems). Plus gluing it to the cockpit areas defused the light wherever the glue went. Aftre three days of this I gave up! So I got out my little box of surface mount LEDs I scrapped from busted electronics and wired them up with micro insulated wire. Then glued them to each panel in the cockpit.

The first picture is the lights and wires glue in place solid. The second photo shows the cockpit in place. The chrome paint still needs to be cleaned off the monitors here. The third photo is of the smoke launchers. Everything in the anime has a rifled barrel so I rifled the barrels too. They attach with a screw in the back so they will mount solid without easily being broken. All of the flashing lights will connect to a $1 light stick board that changes the flashing rate with each push of a button. More lights and details will be added. - MT

[arbit]

9 minutes ago, MechTech said:

I was just using toy quality fiber so it kept breaking despite watching the angles (I used to fabricate fiber cables in communications systems). Plus gluing it to the cockpit areas defused the light wherever the glue went. Aftre three days of this I gave up! So I got out my little box of surface mount LEDs I scrapped from busted electronics and wired them up with micro insulated wire. Then glued them to each panel in the cockpit.

What caused the light to diffuse? The glue?

I use PMM fiber with the smallest amount of epoxy to hold it. But it looks like your space is big enough for SMDs anyway, so that's a better way to go. 

Edited April 29, 2018 by arbit

[NZEOD]

I hate working with glass fibre. Did an x-wing game cruiser and after getting about 30 strands into place each side managed to drop a tool on it and break off half of them!

Edited April 29, 2018 by NZEOD

[NZEOD]

3 hours ago, CrossAir said:

Damn, even the seat looks like it's a much bigger scale, not speaking of those manual pages . That's some awesome job especially as this is 1/72 scale!  Could you please stop it? You make me thinking about building 1/72 Macross kits as well. That is not good for my wallet 

The seats the right scale, I've just leaned the tech forward so it's like he was punching in commands in the MFD. CAGs been bitching about someone wiping his BBC Concert program from the sound system, locking in Radio Hauraki instead, and replacing Bitching Bettys voice with his mothers. This tech drew the short straw in fixing their April Fools.... upgrades.

Edited April 29, 2018 by NZEOD

[NZEOD]

The Rattlers and Swordsmen vf4s have arrived!

Edited April 29, 2018 by NZEOD

[CrossAir]

Fantastic day today: Having a day off, sun's shining and workbench refill: After 2 months DHL finally managed to deliver my order of Kotobukiya kits from CDJ. Order was shipped midth of February and I already gave up hope it will ever be found again!  But together with other arrivals in the past three days the production line is filled up again. 

[505thAirborne]

From primer stage to Semi-Gloss black, she's coming along nicely. 

 

[valhary]

yes Xigfrid the idea is that come completely movable

[Focslain]

So I'm going to be working on some mechs for a group project. Those in the wargaming community might have heard of a project called 'Tale of Four Gamers'. Those that don't it was a series of articles that followed four miniature gamers as they built and painted their armies as well as the games they played as thier force grew.

My local group is doing such a project, though there are six of us and for this I was requested to do Imperial Knights.

So here's the primed starter of one of the mini-knights and the pieced together of one of two full knights I'll be doing for this.

Also a near completed Riptide, this is the last of the Tau mechs I'll be doing in my custom Cadre's scheme and any future suits are going to be using Macross/Gundam schemes.

[arbit]

Together at last 

 

[505thAirborne]

Great builds & WIP pics everyone! 

Loving that Nadia figure! 

[505thAirborne]

Coming along nicely! VF-31A with a VX-9 paint scheme. 

Still not a huge fan of that rear landing gear, yet if you paint the gears/struts white and the bigger tires vs. the DX version, it's not that bad 

[CrossAir]

7 hours ago, 505thAirborne said:

Coming along nicely! VF-31A with a VX-9 paint scheme. 

Still not a huge fan of that rear landing gear, yet if you paint the gears/struts white and the bigger tires vs. the DX version, it's not that bad 

All black looks great! And yes, the VF-31s' rear landing gear looks weird. Wonder if this design would ever work in reality? 

Bandai, now I want an all black DX version. For me the VF-31A 1/60 DX is too rare and expensive for doing such a repaint on my own.

[Chronocidal]

8 hours ago, CrossAir said:

All black looks great! And yes, the VF-31s' rear landing gear looks weird. Wonder if this design would ever work in reality? 

Bandai, now I want an all black DX version. For me the VF-31A 1/60 DX is too rare and expensive for doing such a repaint on my own.

Those gear really wouldn't work in real life without some sort of over-technology suspension joints.  The entire shock of landing would need to be absorbed by a torsion joint that's the same diameter as the strut itself.  Not to mention, any sort of hard landing would be sending the entire door and strut assembly colliding with the micro missile magazines in the leg.  

Paint looks great though, love it in VX-9 markings!

[Lexomatic]

ll be attending a LEGO fan event called Japan Brickfest in Kobe in June, which gives me a reason to finish various anime-themed MOCs ("my own creations" in the jargon of AFOLs ("adult fan of LEGO")) that have been germinating for a dozen years, or to start new ones. Here's the current state of my experimentation vis-à-vis Macross: three variations on a VF-1 battroid body, some alternate limbs and heads, a larger-scale missile pod, two Regult legs, and a very square proof-of-concept Regult (height: 20 cm). There are ways to improve its roundness, but I might stick with this intentionally angular form to match the VF-1.

Building original models in a modular building toy (LEGO System being the front-runner, though there are others -- I'm a connossieur) is not like customizing a factory-made plamodel, or scratch-building a resin kit, or 3D printing, or papercrafting. If you're trying to replicate a character from media, there's always a compromise between shape, color, articulation, size and stability. Personally, I prioritize general shape, color blocking and durability over exact proportions or details. If you haven't built with System lately ("System," as opposed to LEGO's interoperable Duplo, Technic, or CCBS -- the "character and creature building system"), there's been an explosion of shapes and colors in the past 20 years, including many elements to facilitate what's officially called "sideways building" (which fans cheekily call SNOT, for "studs not on top"). It's possible to achieve a lot of "physical coloration" rather than using decals.

 

 

Edited May 2, 2018 by Lexomatic
Deleted superfluous second image.

[arbit]

Nice Legos!

The kids have finished their job and now its my turn. I chose the 1/144 Paragrafix set because it seemed easier.

For the kids fun factor, I'm planning to let them to control the lights with a bluetooth app called ArduDroid and a bluetooth card for the Arduino. Seems doable, but I have some studying to do... Check it out on youtube it's pretty cool.

I've primed the entire sheet of PE with Krylon Colormaster (supposedly for plastic and metal). Its a short cut to make things easier, and then I'll snip them off. As we all know hobby primer wont work with PE, it peels and rubs off too easily, so lets see how Krylon works out. Seems okay so far...

Edited May 2, 2018 by arbit

[SuNDuK]

Started to paneline my 29

 

Edited May 2, 2018 by SuNDuK

[NZEOD]

6 hours ago, arbit said:

Nice Legos!

The kids have finished their job and now its my turn. I chose the 1/144 Paragrafix set because it seemed easier.

For the kids fun factor, I'm planning to let them to control the lights with a bluetooth app called ArduDroid and a bluetooth card for the Arduino. Seems doable, but I have some studying to do... Check it out on youtube it's pretty cool.

I've primed the entire sheet of PE with Krylon Colormaster (supposedly for plastic and metal). Its a short cut to make things easier, and then I'll snip them off. As we all know hobby primer wont work with PE, it peels and rubs off too easily, so lets see how Krylon works out. Seems okay so far...

Tamiya spray primer for metal is a good choice if you need the detail to stay visible

[edstuff]

Finished Grundy

[electric indigo]

Frontier is 10 years old already, so it's time for some cannon fodder love

[Thom]

Ten years already..!?  Where do the decades go!? It use to be years flying by, but now everything just seems to be going faster.

[CrossAir]

Next Girl Project completed. As mentioned earlier this one  comes in Macross color scheme. But not as planned in a Mirage/VF-31C scheme. In the end I couldn’t help it to give her the color scheme of my favorite Valk: YF-25 Prophecy (That concerning Frontier already ten years old but still my favorite )

And of course she has her own flight gear or in Macross wording: She has her own Super/Armored Parts:

And finally she even has her own Battroid  (Thinking about to give it a matching color scheme):

[arbit]

 

[CrossAir]

Hey Arbit, nice details concerning 1/144 scale. I'm curious to see your lit up cockpit when finished, I assume it will look great! 

You made me remember my old AMT Millenium Falcon 1/72 scale I build years ago and stowed away. I made a custom build cockpit, but unfortunately without LEDs. Now thinking about giving the Falcon a lighting upgrade and some panel lining. 

 

 

Edited May 6, 2018 by CrossAir

[arbit]

CorssAir,

Great finish on the YF-25 Girl.

I'm sure you will now do the Falcon justice. If you're going to repaint it, don't bother stripping, just give it a new black base coat and go from there with your white/grey. You'll capture all the panel lines without any headaches with the old paint.

Edited May 6, 2018 by arbit

[teckno viking]

WelL since my 2 Sentinel 1/12 Stigs landed. Been a wee bit creative crazy lol

 

1st is a RC ATV I am turning to represent the Robotech "Shadow Preludes" Silverback ATV. 

2nd is a RC foam SU27 turning into an Legioss. 

3rd is an old Action Man vehicle being redone for 1/12. 

 

Now if I could get more of the Sentinels character figures (or the armour) to make some Troopers.

Though am planning to make some cloth clothed/Uniformed characters.

[derex3592]

this just in... frakk RESIN KITS

 

and I didn't type frakk 

Edited May 6, 2018 by derex3592

[derex3592]

Got some work done on the cockpit parts and pilots for the Cat's Eye today. All it cost me was a cracked iPad screen... 

Edited May 7, 2018 by derex3592

[505thAirborne]

Looking good derex! 

[mickyg]

3 hours ago, derex3592 said:

Got some work done on the cockpit parts and pilots for the Cat's Eye today. All it cost me was a cracked iPad screen... 

This is why iPads and vice grips don't mix.

In all seriousness, hope this didn't sour you too much on the kit because it sure looks good from here!

[arbit]

9 hours ago, derex3592 said:

Got some work done on the cockpit parts and pilots for the Cat's Eye today. All it cost me was a cracked iPad screen... 

How did your resin kit cause that exactly?

I like seeing the closeups of this kit. Keep 'em coming.

[derex3592]

9 hours ago, mickyg said:

This is why iPads and vice grips don't mix.

In all seriousness, hope this didn't sour you too much on the kit because it sure looks good from here!

I was already pissed that the cutting wheels I bought with my WeCheer mini grinder tool didn't fit in the collet, so I was using my bigger dremel to carefully cut off the extra resin off the cockpit parts and I sat it down and the tension on the power cord pulled it over just enough to touch my Ipad screen before the wheel had completely stopped turning. Spider cracked my screen all the way across. I just sat there in utter stunned disbelief.  It still works and really isn't that noticeable when you are watching..just sucks. 

[arbit]

8 minutes ago, derex3592 said:

I was already pissed that the cutting wheels I bought with my WeCheer mini grinder tool didn't fit in the collet, so I was using my bigger dremel to carefully cut off the extra resin off the cockpit parts and I sat it down and the tension on the power cord pulled it over just enough to touch my Ipad screen before the wheel had completely stopped turning. Spider cracked my screen all the way across. I just sat there in utter stunned disbelief.  It still works and really isn't that noticeable when you are watching..just sucks. 

The WeCheer is exactly the same as the Dremel. If you have the little silver collet that works in the Dremel, you insert that in the WeCheer. 

There are different size collets from 0.3mm-3.2mm bit size. So for example, if you are drilling with a 0.3mm bit, then you need to use the minimum size collet.

You can use all the Dreml bits in the WeCheer, but you also need a range of collet sizes.

Edited May 7, 2018 by arbit

[Focslain]

So I got my warglaive table ready and got a few 1v1 games with other in my group. 

vs Drukari (Dark Eldar)

vs Imperial Fists

A rear shot from the IF game

Next up is it's larger cousin, a Styrix pattern Imperial knight, heavily modified.