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arbit

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    CVS-101
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    Classic Anime, Books, Movies, Sci Fi, Sports, and making stuff

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New Edwards Test Pilot (9/15)

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  1. Blasphemy! Just kidding. But actually I'm not a perfectionist, I used the first uniform I found. There is no shortage of better sailor uniform 3D models online.
  2. If I might make a suggestion: It looks like your small-scale valk wings are disintegrating. I have had the same problem when scaling 3D objects down. Sometimes, for 3D Printing very thin objects, you need to "solidify" them, i.e. make them thicker. 3D Builder, Netfab and Microsoft 3D Repair fix a lot of problems, but they will not solidify an object for you. One option you can use right away is Meshmixer to "Make Solid". You can check youtube for some tutorials. It is a trial and error process to make an object solid using different "Offset" parameters, until you get a result you like which thickens, yet maintains a nice appearance. In some case you may thicken an entire model, or in other cases you may separate parts to thicken an individual part of the model giving problems. Another option is to use Blender "Solidify" Modifier as a first step before Meshmixer, to give a completely non-3d model some depth. Additionally, in whatever design software you use like Blender, you can select specific parts of a model that are too thin to print and thicken them using various techniques (such as fatten, extrude, scale). Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
  3. Looks like your designing details for your big SDF-1?
  4. Finished up these version 2s, trying to fix some proportion problems.
  5. That's actually hilarious, since I get your joke. I'm a pretty old 70s rock fan myself.
  6. I did think you were messing with me 😆 I agree. Hair tends to come out smooth anyway and can be easily sanded. Shorter arms? I see what you're saying, I'll see what I can do, but no guarantees. Thanks. You are the official Macross cheerleader. Thanks for the feedback. Good points. I will look into them and see what I can do. These tend to improve with revisions, when I feel the need to go to the trouble. My philosophy with these 3D figures is to get an "overall" kinda accurate look, but can't be a perfectionist on the details, otherwise I would just give up. I will do whatever my skills allow. True that 👍
  7. Cool! I have the Mars 2. Best thing I learned is to use the default settings for the printer for each resin. Never had a bad print with the Mars 2 except from user error. I think you are really going to like the Elegoo 4k.
  8. They're not THAT big, are they?
  9. Thanks @Nyankodevice! I'm a big fan of your work. I do not sell the stls because many of the figures are copyrighted models, although it took a lot of work to process them, make them printable, pose them, and resculpt errors. But I do share them with friends I trust for their projects. A few of the models were made by me only using some base parts from around the net, that I may distribute at some point. The ones I made are Sara Nome, Ishtar, some of the Sharon Apple figures, Minmay School Uniform, and Minmay Captain Uniform. But I need to improve them first, as I think Minmay's head is too small.
  10. Thanks. I also use the Hi-Q eye decals. But I did not consider scaling them down. The main problem is placement. In a couple example, my figures eyes look okay when they are placed correctly. The other main problem is cutting the tiny eyes from the white decal paper with a hobby knife, the 1/48 eyes are less than 1mm wide. I printed your eyes, and the resolution is far less than the ones I made. Perhaps I can remake my decals to look more like your professional ones.
  11. No wonder I'm not getting notifications. Best of luck!
  12. How is my Max looking? Any proportions out of wack? Seems to be a common mistake.
  13. It will be a diorama model of Macross city, so no, I did not think of elevating anything. I will build all the building and have all the chatacters along the strip of buildings, kind of like my recent SDF-1 Bridge diorama.
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