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Yamato 1/60 VF-1A/D/J/S v2.0


Dante74

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Received my 1J yesty. Hv transformed to battroid with no prblms (just like my 1S & 1A). All joints tight as per previous releases. The 1J hv a more pure white than 1/48 1J & even 1/60 1S & 1A. I was bit skeptic at first but grew to like it, the more I look at it, when comparing side by with 1/48. And yes, the FPs hv that accurate TV anime colour. Will try post some pics.

I'm personally love the design & size of this new 1/60. As some people said, it hv that slim Hasegawa look. Really looking forward to 1D. I sold some of my 1/48s & thinking maybe let go my 1/48 1J as well. ^_^

Edited by Javabean
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Received my 1J yesty. Hv transformed to battroid with no prblms (just like my 1S & 1A). All joints tight as per previous releases. The 1J hv a more pure white than 1/48 1J & even 1/60 1S & 1A. I was bit skeptic at first but grew to like it, the more I look at it, when comparing side by with 1/48. Will try post some pics.

Do the shoulder hinges seem to look slightly a different shade of white than on the 1S?

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I think they are also pure white too...let me cfm it tonite. One addn info... the AMM-1 missiles are also pure white. The UUM-7 missile pods is black rather than dark grey of 1S & 1A.

Edited by Javabean
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after see the pics of the official hikaru vf 1s im very disappointed and glad that has already made my custom

what happen with the head no yellow light and the arrows dont have black line?

unknown the official art so which is badly Hikaru 1 / 48 or this?

I'm pretty sure the head light is supposed to be red (looks orange in the pics which is pretty nice). Macross Mecha Manual shows it red and the animation itself shows it red. I think the 1/48 release was wrong. And that probably isn't the final product, I'm sure it will have the black outline on the arrows. Although it doesn't seem necessary.

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sorry but demand the same quality in all valkyries

Screenshot from DYRL.

vf1sheadvd1.jpg

Looks pretty red/orange to me. And this isn't like the red/black heatshield (which I think is rightfully red since his FAST pack skulls are also red in every scene) where it's equally different in each scene, the head light is red/orange in every shot where it's clear enough to see.

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We have the inconsistent problem again for our beloved Macross... In fact I wondered about this too when I got my 1/48s (Focker gets a red light and Hikaru gets a yellow on the head), so I checked the movie. I think it was pretty obvious for Focker to have red light; but I saw Hikaru 1S having black light, red light, and in the final scene when it launched the full ammo attack, it looked like yellow (never managed to capture a good screenshot).

Maybe it's just a light, so it can be yellow, red or off (black). Although I would bet my valk... my money that it's the same problem with the heatshield color.

And also if I am the Yamato engineer, if I can choose I would choose yellow light too for Hikaru 1S. Enough red already, and especially there are 2 red arrows on the head.

And then, on the Hikaru 1S box... Look at the back, and the battroid has red light on the head. So inconsistency is not limited to the anime.

Screenshot from DYRL.

vf1sheadvd1.jpg

Looks pretty red/orange to me. And this isn't like the red/black heatshield (which I think is rightfully red since his FAST pack skulls are also red in every scene) where it's equally different in each scene, the head light is red/orange in every shot where it's clear enough to see.

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Do the shoulder hinges feel any different, as in different materials, more durable, et al?

Hi Shin,

The shoulder hinge cfmd is pure white just like the whole body. I feel its about same materials & durability as the 1S & 1A. Can't really tell any differences, in my opinion.

VF-1JBattroid.jpg

Edited by Javabean
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Just transformed my 1J back to fighter mode to take this shot. Sorry if the pic doesn't show out clear. So far so good with the transformation :)

VF-1JFighters.jpg

Comparison between pure white 1/60 & paler white of the 1/48.

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The shoulder hinge cfmd is pure white just like the whole body. I feel its about same materials & durability as the 1S & 1A. Can't really tell any differences, in my opinion.

Thanks man, I appreciate it. How are the pins installed on the hinge? On my 1S, they are facing opposite directions, the rough end of the pin is facing the top on the left shoulder, where my hairline crack is, while on the right, the rough end of the pin is facing downwards.

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Yeah, have we confirmed now that the real culprit with the shoulders was actually the pin placement? Essentially, if one pin (or both) is installed upside down then you know you have a ticking timebomb. Judging from SDK said it looks like the first thing you check on your 1S would be whether or not there are any rough ends pointing upward. This would also explain how the 1A was magically fixed. Yamato simply called the factory and told them to yell at the guy putting the pins in. Easiest fix ever.

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Ok, making sure---in battroid mode, if the rough end of the pin is up, that's bad?

That's what it sounds like to me. Rough ends up = bad. That said, I don't have nearly enough personal experience to do any vouching for that method, just seems a good hypothesis.

EDIT - darn, I told Overdrive to hold my VF-1J until the next set of CMs ride armors came out... now I'm gonna be jealous of a lot of folks I suspect.

Edited by jenius
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Wife just called me and told me my VF-1J arrived from overdrive!!! I too had it shipped on tuesday!!!

On a different note, can someone explain what pin they are talking about for the shoulders?

Chris

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So nice to see all this 1/60 v.2 goodness in full gear! :)

I shall soon join your ranks! My VF-1A Hikaru with SS parts will likely be with me in a week or so - just as soon as customs gets done raping me :)

Then...then...I too shall post many photos and thump my chest with pride :)

Gotta say also - that when looking at the photo galleries of the old 1/60 Version 1s - which back in the day were "wwwoooowww" - these are just so much MORE wow! - and it's not just because of perfect transformation! They truly are amazing works!

Can't wait for Max and Milia in DYRL/late TV colors. Have been looking forward to owning that pair for a long, long time now :)

Pete

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Just received my VF-1J Hikaru from Overdrive. They shipped it on Tuesday and I received it today!

Excellent! That is quick!

Yeah, have we confirmed now that the real culprit with the shoulders was actually the pin placement? Essentially, if one pin (or both) is installed upside down then you know you have a ticking timebomb.

The only thing to find out is if the guy who had a replacement part break before even installing it had the pin upside down. If the upside down pin is the real issue that is a shame, as such a cheap part mutilates an expensive figure. I've heard people say Yamato's are not meant to be played with, bla bla, but with the new 1/60 VF-1, Yamato has proved that they can make a high durability toy, so long as the guys at the factory assemble the toy correctly.

I have had no issues so far with the right arm, and the smooth end of the pin is facing up on that one. I still pose the left arm but now my obstacle is:

a-trying to figure out a way to get that pin out, miraculously repair the hinge piece with a hairline crack(which is very small), and reinstalling the pin correctly

or

b-opting for replacement shoulder hinges.

Either way, accessing the shoulder hinges to remove them from the body is not easy.

On a different note, can someone explain what pin they are talking about for the shoulders?

It is the pin on the shoulder hinge, which enables the hinge to swivel out and in from the body. The theory thus far, is that if the rough end of the pin is facing upwards in battroid mode, breakage is inevitable. However a member did get replacement hinges, and the hinge broke before installation on the toy(he was just testing it out). The mystery right now is which direction were the pins on his replacement parts facing.

If you have the pins correctly inserted, then you have no worries. The nose hatch is very easy to dislodge(we previously thought it was difficult), and this toy (with correct pin insertion) is more durable than the 1/48. People have said to handle this like a model kit, I say no, I have one, and provided it has the pins inserted right, it is of high durability. Unfortunately for me, my dilemma is fixing the mistake that the factory workers made. Such a simple mistake is a costly loss on the part of the collector. So those of you with correctly inserted arm pins, you are the lucky ones, I wish mine was like yours.

Edited by Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0
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Well let's not get too far ahead of ourselves. Right now I think we're still at the point where reverse installation of the pin is the leading hypothesis. We haven't actually been able to prove it. The thing to do would be to have people with no problems with their shoulders look to determine if their pins are installed with the smooth end up (regardless of which 1/60 2.0 it is). Then, we just track who has shoulders that break and who doesn't. If the only people who report broken shoulders then are the same people who reported an upside down pin we'll have our irrefutable proof.

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After almost 3 months, both my stand alone and fast pack 1S valks shoulders are ok. Or maybe Im just not looking at the right place/dont know what Im looking at? Will check later today regarding pins smooth end direction.

Edit: No complaints on my 1A Hikaru aswell.

Edited by adrianop
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Here's pics of where it breaks and what to look for: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?s=&a...st&p=653985

::edit:: This pic's good too: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?act=...st&id=56990 (you should NOT be able to see any metal--the exposed end of the pin is because the plastic broke off, and so the arm is now only held on by one end--which of course will stress the other end, probably causing that end to fail too)

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Well let's not get too far ahead of ourselves.

After reading another thread, I realized that some people had breakages with the pin installed with the rough side facing downwards. That is how it is like on the right shoulder of my 1S, but the left one is the one that broke, with the rough side of the pin facing up. At this point, all of the reported cases of broken arms are on the 1S only, yet a few members have chimed in and said the material for the shoulders might be the same for all releases. Not sure what to make of this situation and what causes the breakages.

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Looking at those pictures, I finally realized what all the fuss was about.

Something like that absolutely did not happen on my 1S.... However - it is definitely wierd... how could that piece have broken off?

Pete

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Something like that absolutely did not happen on my 1S.... However - it is definitely wierd... how could that piece have broken off?

Don't know as of yet, we deducted previously that it was probably because of tight shoulders, however, even with parts loosened, some of us including myself had a crack. I really want to know if the hinges are indeed made out of POM, if it is POM, there is a problem as proven by the breakages on my figure, and others. In this case, diecast is the better alternative provided it will not snap. After extensively handling my 1S, the hinge really feels like ABS more than POM.

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