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MasterPiece Collection v1.1


Dangard Ace

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Thanks jenius for the pics and to everyone else who replied for their info :)

This is the impression I've got so far

1. The bandai 1/55 vs yamato 1/60 analogy seems to stand up

2. I think I agree that the toynami is better but its no "masterpiece". It may have better proportions and articulation but 20 years of toy technology should have produced better. Admittedly the legioss/alpha is not a good looking fighter even in the anime but I really hate the crab feet, arching back, and miniscule clearance of toynami.

3. How dare toynami even call the thing a masterpiece when the build quality is so bad. I know there are some good alphas out there but the proportion of "lemons" is ridiculous. I bet no one will disagree if I make the generalisation that whenever anyone opens an alpha for the first time the first thing they do is pray they didn't get a dud. Damage control is not what should be going through your head the first time you open a new toy :angry:

4. The toynami alpha may be all we have right now but there is scope for improvement . look at the Yamato 1/48 valk. The thing is pretty durable if transformed correctly, QC is good and it looks stunning in all three modes. I feel unworthy of touching that toy so i've put it back in its box :p If that can be done to a valk then it means we have the toy tech to do that to an alpha.

BTW - I've got a q about scale. The gakken is 1/35 and the toynami is 1/55 but they don't look so far apart in actual toy sizes. Which one got the wrong scaling?

I'd tend to agree with Jenius, having owned both the Gakkens and Toynamis. A suitable analogy is that the 1/35 Gakken is to the MPC Alpha as the 1/55 Chunky Monkey is to the Yamato 1/60. While fairly durable and 'playable', the Gakkens fall down to the MPCs in terms of detail and posability... And face it, if we want Legioss/Alphas, there's not much other choice available, so we have to enjoy what we've got.

...Unless, your MPC is a lemon, in which case, get rid of it or have it replaced. I've been lucky in that none of my MPC Alphas have been true lemons, I'm sure I'd righteously feel differently if that were not the case.

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Man, did I get lucky. I just got my blue Alpha yesterday and I am apparently one of the few who got a completely flawless one. No bad joints, no broken parts, absolutely nothing wrong with it. After transforming it a few times, I do have some minor complaints, but otherwise I'm pleasantly surprised with it. I suppose I can say that because I expected a complete dud, but it was worth the $65 I paid for it.

- I definitely need to find some better way to make the arms connect to the legs in fighter mode. It's close, but there's still a gap left between the upper and lower arm joint.

- The fuselage (back) doesn't hold together particularly well in battroid mode.

- The landing gear SUCKS OUT LOUD. Has anyone considered creating a replacement, or is this even feasible?

I can't wait to see more about the Beta now.

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I'm betting that just like the Yamato 1/60, the Toynami Alpha was not designed using CAD, hence the poor parts fitting.

Graham

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If that's the case then the MPC Alpha is basically a mass produced scratchbuild, recast, of a recast, of a recast!!!

It seems Toynami completely missed the boat on conducting a final QC, 100% inspector approved process, to ensure pure quality of their product. What a bunch of yahoos.

From my experience with Gakken, I think it really just lacks poseability, and nothing more. Details on the Gakken are just fine as they are given IT IS A TWENTY YEAR OLD ORIGINAL TOY, and not just a copy.

But hey, to each his own.

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I recently acquired one of these Shadow Alphas, and here's my quick review:

1. What a piece of crap. Part of me just died. The arms don't lock in place properly, and in fighter mode it bows upward. Landing gear hovers while the chest balances the figure. Fine craftsmanship there folks. There's better QA/QC for a 25-cent Homies coin-op figure.

2. The proportions in fighter mode look goofy, the entire nose assembly makes baby jesus cry and seek therapy, where he is then advised to take a series of antidepressants and attend a group retreat program in Mendocino.

3. The cowling on the special Shadow rifle fell off immediately. It was as though the figure were crumbling before my eyes. Superglue took the place of the tackless snot Toynami used (the fumes did nothing to improve the appearance of the figure).

4. Paint inconsistencies Ahoy!

5. Back in the box and hidden from view, I shall stare into the abyss no longer, for the abyss stares back at me!

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I wish the Gakken Legioss was reissued even if another Japanese toy company took the License  like Bandai or Takara  :(

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Unless it was a modified and renamed version no chance, much like one company producing the Back to the Future II aircar to get around the licensing issues of producing a Bladerunner cop spinner, Toynami hold the Japanese Mospeada toy rights and don't seem to inclined to do as you suggest...

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Regarding the upward bow of the fuselage, it appears to me that the culprit is how the notch in the "calf" connects to the arms when transformed into fighter mode. If that notch were to be moved about 1-2 millimeters higher on the leg, I think it would go a long way towards not having the arms pull the forward fuselage upwards. Case in point is if you don't lock the upper and lower arm together but then just loosely fit the tab into the notch on the leg, the whole fighter looks much more level. Maybe I can get some pictures of this.

It would seem to me that if I had the proper tool to cut the notch higher on the leg, then I'd do it in a split second. Otherwise, the arms don't lock properly and the whole things bows up. I can't help but wonder how Toynami solved this problem in the fighters in their publicity shots? The tab on the lower arms obviously can't move any further down, and it's a shame that the joint in the shoulder won't extend slightly towards the rear of the plane. Therefore, the notch in the leg seems to be the only place where improvements could readily be made.

Anyone have a suggestion as to which type of tool could do this precise cutting? I'm not sure if Dremel has an attachment for what I have in mind.

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LOL, I just went to verify if what you said was true... and from the looks of the random shadow fighter I grabbed it is. So then I tried massaging the arms back and had great success! Turns out hte arm wasn't really attached internally at all and I was able to walk it right off the back of the fighter. I'm gonna go email Toynami now :(

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As you can see in the pics above, and as I've stated a few times, you can really minimized the arched back of the fighter mode. It was a real struggle though but at least I learned about that arm now. My red alpha is simply amazing, not only does that thing have all three landing gears on the ground but it can actually roll around on said landing gears! The arm in the pic came out a little but it can actually still pull off all three landing gears with both arms tucked in pretty good. Sadly, most my other alphas aren't so nice.

What should Toynami Have done?

1) Place the slots the arms attach to the legs in slightly more upward.

2) Move the apex of the nosecone ever so slightly downward

3) Move the slots the cockpit flaps (aka front wings) fit in ever so slightly forward. It's a delicate act and I don't believe the Legioss/alpha was ever meant to have a raked appearance... just perfectly flat.

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Heh, from the look of those pictures, if the Shadow Fighter tries firing it's gun in fighter mode, it's gone shoot itself in the back of the cockpit :lol:

Graham

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bwa hahaha.. I love your catty toynami snipes. For my contribution, I have to say they're still making Banana Valks. ;)

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Well... there are many "big" companies like "toynami" but you wouldn't believe how may idiots walk around there playing smart or see only greens.

"Hey Bob! Don't forget to send an e-mail to the manufacter about the corrections"... recipient: bob@dumb.com

Edited by Kin
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get the green one from shop4toyz (ebay)...for some reason they have high production number for the green ones which indicates less flaws. I got one minty-mint form em~! response to e-mails was fast and reasonable price too (less than 60 bucks)

As far as Im concerned, the green's design is the best of all four~!! but that's subject to one's taste

aaajin

Edited by aaajin
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just got the replacement for the previous crappy VFA-6H...this toy..I would say, is the most perfect masterpiece alpha (just for Bernard version) Ive ever seen~! all joints are tight, even the arms r tight....no broken parts etc-2....man, Im begninnig to lovin it

thanks to Animax from ebay for his great service and the shipment refund! A++ hehe

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I recently acquired one of these Shadow Alphas, and here's my quick review:

1. What a piece of crap. Part of me just died. The arms don't lock in place properly, and in fighter mode it bows upward. Landing gear hovers while the chest balances the figure. Fine craftsmanship there folks. There's better QA/QC for a 25-cent Homies coin-op figure.

2. The proportions in fighter mode look goofy, the entire nose assembly makes baby jesus cry and seek therapy, where he is then advised to take a series of antidepressants and attend a group retreat program in Mendocino. 

3. The cowling on the special Shadow rifle fell off immediately. It was as though the figure were crumbling before my eyes. Superglue took the place of the tackless snot Toynami used (the fumes did nothing to improve the appearance of the figure).

4. Paint inconsistencies Ahoy!

5. Back in the box and hidden from view, I shall stare into the abyss no longer, for the abyss stares back at me!

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Are you sure you diden't end up with the one I sent back........ :lol:

Sounds like the one I got all over again.

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curvature free~! :lol: but so sad, I have to part with it to fund another VF-1A CF purchase.. :(

PS : if anyone interested, its in the For Sale section

Ow yea..I have some tips on how not to break the arms. :

1st - open the arm hatch and unfold the hand

2nd - push the upper arm UP (the rectangular part of the arm, which slides into the lower arm), from the INSIDE of the opened-lower arm.

3rd - NEVER PULL THE LOWER ARMS DOWN FROM THE OUTSIDE as this may break the uber-fragile arm connection! <_<

Some tips on achieving non-banana fighter mode :

1st - Slide the middle body upward...yeah, like what I said, the masterpiece alpha can actually slides its middle body upward...most people dont do this, resulting in banana-looking fighter (Ive circled the part that need to be slided up in the pic below)

Hope these tips helps

Motto of the day : Say NO to BANANA masterpiece ! :p

aaajin

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Edited by aaajin
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All I know is that my blue one crumbles more each time I touch it. Here's what's happened to it:

Hand cumbled and broke apart (got a replacement...with RED paint)

PVC slider cover inside forearm came off...had to use superglue to fix

Leg PVC slider came off...had to unscrew the leg to fix, messed up leg paint

Most recently...the large front landing gear door broke at the hinge

They used SEVERLY inferior plastic for these toys. At least the metal is solid...if unnecessary. I've bought knockoffs from Big Lots that had better materials. They used diecast in places they didn't need it and plastic in places they needed diecast for stability.

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Although I was slightly sad to see it go, I'm glad I got rid of my Alpha. That brittle plastic material bugs the crap out of me. I think they get their 'plastic' from the same candy-cane factory as McFarlane Toys. Go ahead and lick one of those Alphas, I bet they taste all sugary.

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I also got rid of my alpha. As a part of a group exchange/buy. I miss it a little, but I never really used it. I couldn't trust it. I wish Yamato would make one of these. A 1/48 alpha would be King! Oh well, it's not going to happen... I'm not THAT lucky...

V!C

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Lol is there a doctor in the room? My alpha has a broken spinal core in fighter mode..

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How bad? A pic would help.

As it is, I kept looking up the Shadow Alpha on eBay, but I can't really justify to myself the price tag. That's normally a good sign that I consider the product sub-par...

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:( toynamis plastic is (fill in the blank)!! just dont touch it and you're set. i've bought them all and ...... until a 1/48 show itself or the vintage become more avialable <_< . What can you do?. :angry:

buy more glue and cross your fingers :D

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  • 2 weeks later...
I almost bought one in the last moment but I stopped and instead I ordered a 1/60 VF-1A CF.  Toynami should stop calling`em MPC.  BTW any news about MPC Voltron ?

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its been delayed according to toynami.com QC issues and retooling i'm not sure about a release date though. i hope its made of sturdier plastic <_<

i loved these MPCs when they came out and as a newb thought "great i can collect these" now i'm in turmoil over whether they were worht the effort. i like the Book package and i haven't had any problems with damage, but i haven't been rough with any of them.

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Yesterday while i was playing with my shadow fighter, the right flap just beside the canopy broke....a very clean break. <_< No parts stress marks at all either.

I tried super glue with little success then used a miniature glue gun and voila....good as new....almost. <_<

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Yesterday while i was playing with my shadow fighter, the right flap just beside the canopy broke....a very clean break. <_< No parts stress marks at all either.

I tried super glue with little success then used a miniature glue gun and voila....good as new....almost. <_<

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I had the same problem with my Rook version; I'm assuming you mean the leading edge extension/winglet. The designers didn't add a fillet where the hinge post meets the underside of the winglet and chose a plastic with a very low Modulus of Elasticity (too stiff, can't take torque stress); therefore, this area is prone to snap clean if you overstress it...I did it upon first transformation. At first, I tried to repair it by drilling two matching holes on each piece without going through either part and then pinning them with seamstress pins cut to length and a bit of super glue. It worked, was very strong (maybe stronger than before), and the break was almost invisible, but I was not satisfied. I decided to contact Toynami and arrange to send the broken piece back for replacement, and I had a new part within 2 weeks.

Toynami's products may have mediocre quality at best, but their customer service is top notch.

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