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seti88

TomyTec GIMIX Macross Delta 1/144

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Personally, I recommend using CA glue instead of regular model kit glue for these kits.

I'd not heard of that, and my first TomyTec kit is on its way from HLJ. Does normal cement just not work, not work well, or what? (because I tend to avoid CA when possible, especially on painted areas) I use it for reinforcing or gap-filling, not "primary method of adhesion".

There is a picture of the gerwalk parts in the 1A picture section;

tomytec_gerwalk.jpg

I'm betting (regardless of what the pic/wording implies):

You take the front half and wings of the fighter kit. The arms and legs of the battroid kit. And the "exclusive" center-section (backpack+intakes) of the Gerwalk "set". The Gerwalk set's only difference/part, is that center-section piece.

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Yup thats what i tot too. But just to address the glue question, and whether or not you glue everything and if unable to switch back to other modes...

from DH website...

http://hobby.dengeki.com/news/188653/

post-15116-0-42426000-1461213750_thumb.jpg

If you build gerwalk, i suspect you will have the figher back + the battroid body as modular leftovers. But it does look as you can switch modes after you glue the main components..

And nothing would stop you from building a Franken valk with different 1s,j,a parts. Whether u want to or not that's the question haha...

Edited by seti88

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I use the Loctite Super Glue Ultra Liquid Control which you can find at your local Home Depot.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/4/2/sg_ul_cntrl/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-ULTRA-Liquid-Control.htm

I just put a drop or 2 on a plate then use a toothpick to apply.

I've no experience on kits needing glue. Could you recommend something for a beginner? I want to some practice first. I just preordered the macross delta 31c and 31j and I really don't want to mess up when the time comes to assemble them.

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Since the kits come on runners, you can practice by gluing the runner trees together. After snipping the pieces off, of course.

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What kind of plastic are these? If they are poly styrene regular cement should work. But if they are ABS super glues like locktite and zapagap should work.

I have had problems getting ABS to stick with cement in the past. ABS may also reduce the need for polycaps.

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There are cements that work for polystyrene and ABS, like Humbrol's Liquid Poly. You apply it with a brush like your regular polystyrene cement.

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Confused......So does this mean that the Gerwalk kit is not a complete kit even though it's the most expensive?

And does it mean you have to buy an extra Fighter mode and Battroid mode kits just to complete the Gerwalk?

If that's the case I'll probably cancel my Gerwalk order and just stick with the Fighter and Battroid kits.

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As I understand it, the GERWALK kit is both battroid and fighter kits. You can have a fighter mode and a battroid mode. However, if you want to build a GERWALK you can do so and you'll have half a fighter mode and half a battroid mode left over.

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It's like the Wave 1/100 kits; You get fighter and battroid separately and then there's parts to make gerwalk.

Seeing as the Fighter and gerwalk parts have little T-sliders on them I highly doubt it's a permanent thing.

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You can make a fighter OR a battroid OR a gerwalk with ONE gerwalk kit. Its part-swappable depending on the mode you want.

Edited by seti88

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For those asking about the type of plastic, it seems like standard plastic model styrene. I used 3 different glues on my Su-37: standard Testors model cement, gorilla glue (CA glue), and also tried Tamiya extra thin cement. The Tamiya glue didn't work so well, probably due to being so thin, but I liked that it uses a brush applicator as the parts are so small and my old faithful Testors tube cement tended to come out too thick. I really not used to building in such a small scale. I HOPE the kits ARE interchangeable after assembly but, as I said, the standard aircraft kits are not. You have to choose if you want to build with gear up or down, air brake open or closed, type of engine nozzle, weapons, ect. Once built, there is no going back. That aspect was a little disappointing to me. Also, at least on the Su-37, the gear up option's main gear door's fit is not that great and are in 2 pieces instead of one long piece which would make it so much easier. Like I said earlier, these are not THAT simplified kits...to assemble that is.

Chris

Edited by Dobber

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Hmm, seems like this concept would work well with say armored vehicles in maybe 1/60 or 1/72 scale. I would get on those quite quickly.

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I'd not heard of that, and my first TomyTec kit is on its way from HLJ. Does normal cement just not work, not work well, or what? (because I tend to avoid CA when possible, especially on painted areas) I use it for reinforcing or gap-filling, not "primary method of adhesion".

From my experience , normal model kit cement didn't work that well. Possibly due to that fact that almost every single piece is pre-painted. Instead of melting the plastic for adhesion, I might have been just melting the paint - which has the potential of ruining the paint job.

Also, some of the pieces don't have guide pins or are microscopically small ( like the pitot tubes) so it's generally better to get those pieces stuck on immediately IMO.

Edited by Vifam7

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If you don't repaint or worry about filling seams super glue in small amounts should work. If the connecting points are painted over you may need to clean those up first.

They may have upgraded to a more snap kit design due to the robotic subject, but I haven't heard anything about that.

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Haha, no plans to repaint or fill in seams. I'm the world's worst model painter. All that stuff is way too technical for me and at a level of skill I could never obtain.

I'm buying these specifically beacuse they are already painted, so I don't have to.

Just gonna slap em together, use a few drops of super glue to make sure they stay together and use them as hand-held zoom arounds until the DX toys come out.

Graham

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If I was really concerned about parts coming apart / weak glue joints, I would drill holes in the contact surfaces and insert a short piece of brass rod to connect the two mated surfaces, securing the rod with CA. It adds extra work, but it won't come apart. I'd only do that if you were really concerned about a weak joint or if one fell apart after a bit of light handling.

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So this is a really REALLY minor point, but the handle on the gunpod is different between the Bandai and Tomy Tec models. It seems the Bandai one is a bit closer to the animation, but there hasn't been a very good angle of it at this point.

Overall it looks like the Tomy Tec one has more inaccuracies all around, but it still doesn't look bad per se. Those biceps are bigger than they ought to be, but then they also look more substantial.

post-30901-0-53041300-1461514764_thumb.png

Edited by kajnrig

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Anyone interested in any pics/sort of a build? It's not a valk, but I just got one of these kits and plan to start it soon. It won't be a full build article or anything, but I could highlight some things people are interested in.

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Anyone interested in any pics/sort of a build? It's not a valk, but I just got one of these kits and plan to start it soon. It won't be a full build article or anything, but I could highlight some things people are interested in.

Definitely!

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i fourth the ayes, only if to see a gimix delta! I thought its still on pre-order?

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As I said---I've got *a* 1/144 Tomytech Gimix series kit. It's just not a valk. They have planes from real-world, games, and anime.

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As I said---I've got *a* 1/144 Tomytech Gimix series kit. It's just not a valk. They have planes from real-world, games, and anime.

haha hype train has got me seeing it IS a valk! :p

Nevertheless yes, any build highlights would do nicely!

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Ok, just a quick overview from last night (it's hard to take good pics at night under CFL's):

IMG_5636t_zpsrkrxqd0c.jpg

IMG_5638t_zpsneysh58u.jpg

IMG_5647t_zpsmbcbjmmd.jpg

IMG_5655t_zpsjsrmby06.jpg

I tried to give an impression of the paint job and the many small markings tampo'd on. A single piece of one of the intakes has more printing than my entire Arcadia -19 I think...

Bottom pic, note the tailfins have each RWR/light painted---white, red, silver.

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This is the one I got and just built. Putting in the engine turbines was so freaking irritating. The are side specific, which is understandable of course, BUT the left one goes in completely differently than the right side. It was so stupid and hard to get in!

Chris

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Were there any markings not tampoed? And if so is there a sticker sheet or waterslides?

I was just wondering because some of the markings on the pictures for the vf1 look like they have a faint edge, like on waterslides or stickers. I was just curious about what to expect.

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13 or 4? I'm tempted to do 4, but 13 is so much better-known.

You know, I didn't even pay attention to that. I made mine with the V. Stab that has the white on the leading edge.

Chris

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You know, I didn't even pay attention to that. I made mine with the V. Stab that has the white on the leading edge.

Were there any markings not tampoed? And if so is there a sticker sheet or waterslides?

This goes for both posts! There's no modex number printed on, but there's a small sheet of waterslides. All other markings are printed.

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