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Bandai 1/60 Scale DX VF-27 Thread


KiriK

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In case anyone hasn't been to anymoon.com lately, I updated my VF-27 post to include the Grace version and included some pics. I didn't have much of an issue with the lighting making the different types of plastic look different shades of green.

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Is this version of VF-27 sold out? What's a reasonable price for it? Can't seem to find in online. Also I don't want to go through e-bay.

It was sold out prior to release, being a web-exclusive and all. Ebay is frankly going to be about your only option asides from Toy-Wave:

http://www.toy-wave.com/eng/detail.php?id=13700&table=88

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It was sold out prior to release, being a web-exclusive and all. Ebay is frankly going to be about your only option asides from Toy-Wave:

http://www.toy-wave.com/eng/detail.php?id=13700&table=88

DAYYYUUMM!!!!!!!!! :blink:

Look at that price!

And that's before shipping!

The word of the day is "Wallet Homicide".

But then again we here at MW are all guilty of "Wallet Cleasing". :lol: :lol: :lol:

Good luck bro you're gonna need it, I hope you can get one at a reasonable price.

I'm good with Brera's bird man, no need to get into a three-way battle between me, the wife and my back pocket. :lol:

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In case anyone hasn't been to anymoon.com lately, I updated my VF-27 post to include the Grace version and included some pics. I didn't have much of an issue with the lighting making the different types of plastic look different shades of green.

Hi Jenius, anyway you can add an illustration of how to transform the nosecose properly in order to avoid scratching off the paint? Thanks!

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I don't really know how people have been scratching the paint and I don't want to fool around with that part of the transformation long enough to find out. If I ever have the misfortune of scratching the paint myself I'll be sure to update the post and discuss how it happened in the durability section. For now I think the key is that you fold the nosecone down into the landing gear well and then you push it back (toward the rear of the plane). This helps create the clearance necessary. I'm guessing those of us who were warned about it before we ever bought the toy now know well enough to be extremely careful when at that point in transformation.

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For now I think the key is that you fold the nosecone down into the landing gear well and then you push it back (toward the rear of the plane). This helps create the clearance necessary. I'm guessing those of us who were warned about it before we ever bought the toy now know well enough to be extremely careful when at that point in transformation.

Yes, folding and "sliding" the nosecone down gives more clereance and prevents the chestplate dragging across the nosecone.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Stickers match the tampo printing better than I thought they would--not a perfect match though---but impossible to tell on the tailfins as there's nothing nearby to compare it to.

Stickers are the thinnest I've encountered I think. Trim the ones for the legs VERY closely--even then they'll overlap the striping a bit. BTW--it's nigh-impossible to get the tailfin ones on straight--the swept, angled fins and italicized numbers really mess with your senses--they'll look different if you move your head even SLIGHTLY.

IMG_3078t.jpg

IMG_3074.jpg

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Anyone done a long term evaluation on their Brera yet? Arms definitely seem a bit floppier... having issues holding a pose with the huge gunpod. Wish that shoulder joint had been ratcheted... got it to hold, at least for now. Just did another transformation to fighter. Still a beauty and nice and solid there, of course. Managed to avoid chipping on the lilac paint (the nose should be pretty easy), but have a small chip on the darker maroon striping. Cause looks to be the tab behind the hip/intake scratching at it in Battroid, so watch out for that area.

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Anyone done a long term evaluation on their Brera yet? Arms definitely seem a bit floppier... having issues holding a pose with the huge gunpod. Wish that shoulder joint had been ratcheted... got it to hold, at least for now. Just did another transformation to fighter. Still a beauty and nice and solid there, of course. Managed to avoid chipping on the lilac paint (the nose should be pretty easy), but have a small chip on the darker maroon striping. Cause looks to be the tab behind the hip/intake scratching at it in Battroid, so watch out for that area.

Although the shoulders on mine were not super-tight to begin with, they have loosened up noticeably. Same with the hip joints, they're not as tight as they used to be.

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I just found the easy way to open the canopy:

Open the nosegear doors. Look up inside the gear bay. Almost dead center, in the most-recessed part of the bay, will be a little rectangle. It's the canopy's lock-tab. Push a toothpick in there and the canopy will open right up. Much easier than trying to open it from above, and with no risk of scratching off the paint.

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I've never had an issue opening my canopy. Use my fingernail to crease by the nubs on either side at the front of the cockpit

Whitestar, I'd say the hips on my Brera seem just as tight. Have probably done a couple dozen transformations. Usually displayed in Battroid...

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I've never had an issue opening my canopy. Use my fingernail to crease by the nubs on either side at the front of the cockpit

Whitestar, I'd say the hips on my Brera seem just as tight. Have probably done a couple dozen transformations. Usually displayed in Battroid...

That's interesting. My canopy can't close while the pilot figures are in the cockpit, so I usually do without. As for the hip joints, only the right side has loosened up noticeably, the left is still somewhat tight.

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I just found the easy way to open the canopy:

Open the nosegear doors. Look up inside the gear bay. Almost dead center, in the most-recessed part of the bay, will be a little rectangle. It's the canopy's lock-tab. Push a toothpick in there and the canopy will open right up. Much easier than trying to open it from above, and with no risk of scratching off the paint.

Thanks for that! The canopy is so tight on mine that I usually don't bother opening it. Nice to know there's an "emergency release" method. :)

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I just found the easy way to open the canopy:

Open the nosegear doors. Look up inside the gear bay. Almost dead center, in the most-recessed part of the bay, will be a little rectangle. It's the canopy's lock-tab. Push a toothpick in there and the canopy will open right up. Much easier than trying to open it from above, and with no risk of scratching off the paint.

Yup, that's the method I've been using since I got the Brera. I realized where the peg was located after initial terrifying opening. I thought I had shared the method but maybe not.

On paint scratch, I have to note that my Brera has noticeable scratches in the hip gun area, where the wings connect to them. In fighter mode the scratches are covered, but will show in battroid or gerwalk. It is caused by the friction between wings and hip gun areas, I keep mine in fighter mode mostly.

IMG_3078t.jpg

IMG_3074.jpg

funky color matching there! I wonder if under the same light conditions the Brera is so interesting to look at (maybe not).

instead of being a problem, it makes it look more realistic with a slight color difference for parts made of different materials, much like real aircraft and their individual panels. I know this may not have been intentional.

Edited by regult
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funky color matching there! I wonder if under the same light conditions the Brera is so interesting to look at (maybe not).

instead of being a problem, it makes it look more realistic with a slight color difference for parts made of different materials, much like real aircraft and their individual panels. I know this may not have been intentional.

Light conditions make it look like that. Under normal circumstances you cant really see it.

Edited by anubis20
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Since regult brought it up:

Real military jets tend to be assembled modularly, often with pre-painted sections. I know the F-14 for sure was assembled from pre-painted sections. Thus, a brand-new Tomcat would probably be several slightly different shades of the same color.

A custom-repaint after assembly like Brera's would likely be all one color, but the "standard finish" for the green ones could easily have some variations.

Interestingly, the color demarcations on the toy follow "real variations" quite well--tailfins and nosecone. Heck, go look at any F-15E nowadays--their nosecones rarely match the rest of the fuselage.

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I would have bought this if it is not a web exclusive. so Il just be contented with the Brera I have. an yes, the un even green does not really bother me at all.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Unless Macross Galaxy had more than one squadron of VF-27, there probably aren't any other. It's a design unlikely to be produced on another ship/colony. I'd kinda like to see a 'conventional' UN Spacy VF-24 produced by someone (what happened to YF/VF-23?)

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what happened to YF/VF-23?

The YF-23 was a real world plane, so Kawamori most likely avoided using that designation on purpose (seeing as how the setting of Macross Plus is basically a future version of the real life YF-22 versus YF-23 ATF project, it would only needlessly confuse things).

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Also, the VF-25 was so designated to mark the 25th anniversary of Macross. The model we haven't seen is the VF-26.

So far, my Brera VF-27 is holding up fine. The metal bars to which the shoulder attach are a little loose, but they can still be adjusted and posed without too much trouble. I wish Bandai had designed the slots further back, as the metal bars don't tab in when the chest is angled down. Overall, though, a pretty solid toy. I've grown used to its chunky style. Still, if Yamato was ever to pick up the license and make a skinnier, more accurate version, I'd definitely consider it. I'd really love to have an accurate 1/60 Michael's VF-25.

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Stickers match the tampo printing better than I thought they would--not a perfect match though---but impossible to tell on the tailfins as there's nothing nearby to compare it to.

Stickers are the thinnest I've encountered I think. Trim the ones for the legs VERY closely--even then they'll overlap the striping a bit. BTW--it's nigh-impossible to get the tailfin ones on straight--the swept, angled fins and italicized numbers really mess with your senses--they'll look different if you move your head even SLIGHTLY.

IMG_3078t.jpg

IMG_3074.jpg

Whoa, the landing gears are at the correct length. What scale is this?

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