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My finished 1/72 Hasegawa VF-0S

wm cheng

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Day-um.... you constantly amaze me, william....

Great stuff! I wasn't too hot on this bird before, but after seeing what you've done, I may have to pick one up after all. Course, mine won't look like that, buy hey....

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The tailcone ribbing adds alot to the finished appearance, you can just make out the afterburners inside - its too bad, but with the naked eye you can see quite a lot and what a great job Hasegawa did with them.

Crank the flash up and shoot the burners, William! :-D

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I'm in awe. Like always. I'm curious if you have any interest in doing a VB-6. I know you've done resin kits before but I wasn't sure if you had any interest in this particular subject.


Edited by wwwmwww
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Truly the work of a master!!!!!

MW cheng, you are my new idol.

Gosh, I can`t stop looking at it.

Please keep up the god work and your step by step ,

I learned alot from you.

muchas gracias MAESTRO.


Edited by xfing
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Hi all - thanks for all the kudos,

Hopefully I'll have some flightline stuff with the other Valks soon. In the meantime - I've been asked a lot about photography tips - so I'll post some here:

I am taking them with a Nikon 990 - its old, but decent. I always shoot on manual mode with ISO 100.

The key thing is lighting - without it, you can't do anything. So short of a studio setup with proper lights, I have to wait until there is sun and I do it outside under direct sunlight.

Second most important thing is the background - a simple neutral background will do so much more to enhance your model - the actual subject matter.

Remember to always meter for neutral grey (30% - skin tones) - if you have a white plane and meter for the plane, then you will get a grey plane - all camera meters measure light accurately for 30% grey. Either stick your hand (skin tone is pretty close to 30% grey in B&W) in front of the model and meter for that, or buy a grey card at a local photo shop and meter for that to get the proper exposure.

Close down on the aperature, use the smallest aperature your lighting condition will allow, F-11 and smaller (higher number 16,22) will get you a larger depth of field so both the front and tail of your model will be in focus. Biggest giveaway of scale or size is to have a short depth of field.

Get down and try to shoot your plane from the "ground" level. Being a small model, the tendency is to shoot all the shots from above - because we usually look down on models. But we rarely look down on an plane, we usually look across or up at it - try to think as though you are walking around a real aircraft.

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OMG this is awesome!!!!! Look at those tiny details! :blink:

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That's it folks - thanks for tuning in. I just remembered that I didn't take anything with the VF-0 next to my other planes - the older VF-1 or YF-19 for size comparison - I'll do that later. The sun has gone away.

Here is the link to the step-by-step build up:


Cheers :D

Hey, very impressive work with your VF-02 model. How do you do the subtle panel lines and weathering?

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Hopefully I'll have some flightline stuff with the other Valks soon.  In the meantime - I've been asked a lot about photography tips - so I'll post some here:

Those are some excellent advise on metering/gray card, aperture, depth of field, and shooting angle.

I'd just like to add, shutter speed is another important consideration. The longer the shutter speed, the longer it must stay open for proper exposure. Shutter speeds are in fractions of a second (unless it's longer than a second). For example, 1/125 is 125th of a second (or 0.008 seconds in decimals). Anyways, for general hand-holding photography, at least 1/250 or faster is recommended. Any slower, you should consider using a tripod. However, from personal experience, I've been able to get fairly sharp shots at 1/125 or 1/180 when I'm leaning up against something to keep me still. The shutter speed setting affects your aperture setting, thus, affects your depth of field (DOF). So keep that in mind too. For example, given a specific light meter, a faster shutter speed would require a larger aperture (i.e. smaller f-stop number, f/5.6 is larger than f/13), thus a smaller DOF (i.e. a narrower band of sharpness). It's all about balance and what you particularly want in your photography.

p.s. Eagerly waiting for flight-line shots. :)

p.s.s. Any wallpapers yet from you talented graphic designers?

Edited by J A Dare
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Hey a sunny day and I've got some time...

Hey GobotFool, check out my step-by-step thread, it outlines the steps I used for the panel lines and weathering.

JA Dare, I would consider it safe to go hand held down as far as 1/15 sec - as long as the camera is properly held (2 hands) close to the body and you are in the proper stance. I've shot as slow as 1/8 bracing my body. But anything over 1/30 you don't really have to worry about unless its moving or you are at extreme zoom 100mm or more.

The new VF-0's weathering almost makes the others brand spanking new...


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This would be cool if I had all the weapons laid out - too bad I don't have any for the YF-19 (my resin kit isn't built) nor any for the VF-0 yet.


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