Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Recent Profile Visitors

4522 profile views

Neova's Achievements

Bridge Bunny

Bridge Bunny (7/15)



  1. What are the exact names of the English version books? I might need to score it on amazon or find someone stateside to pick it up for me.
  2. Mike, Put me on the list. Can't have enough Monsters!
  3. If you're worried about the rubber sleeve tearing further, try to bend the ball joints all the way open to expose it as much as possible. You are trying to get to the point where the sleeve does not cover the joint. Then dab a small bit of polish. When it dries, turn it the other way around 180 or as far as possible, and dab a small bit on the OTHER side of the joint where the joint is exposed and the sleeve has pulled away from it. This way, you are putting friction back on the naked joints where the sleeve doesn't touch. This is a hit or miss depending on how the rubber sleeve bunches up. You just want to tight up the joint spots where the sleeve has slipped. Or if you have balls, just take the whole joint apart and replace the sleeve with thicker or fresh rubber sheet like how Yamato shows owners how to fix their 1/24 Patlabor torso ball joints. I have a 1st issue 1/60 VF-0A with broken elbow and totally cracked, almost breaking knee joint still here from a swap I did for fellow MW a long time ago. Yamato didn't take it back and I had to eat that cost! Grr.... But maybe I can develop stronger joints off it and offer to Zero owners. Will need to take it apart and see what is possible.
  4. I believe the version 2.0 Zeros still have slightly loose joints. Just don't force it and use the clear nail polish on the ball joints trick to help tighten them up. Nothing you can do about it without replacing or remaking the joints. I don't pose my zero's much for this reason and leave them in static poses most of the time. I definately pose my 1/48 VF-1's more than the 1/60s or 1/100 VB-6! RE: VE-1 and VF-1Ds. I would not worry too much about the pricing and availability if you can wait it out. Unless Yamato specifically says those were limited editions, there is always a good chance for a re-issue, especially when prices are going so high for them now. Same for Bandai.
  5. That is not bad actually. The SV-51 can be had for between 100-120 USD in Hong Kong plus ~ 25-30 USD shipping to the states, so that is about correct. Previiously the SV-51 was ~ 150 USD before shipping.
  6. Neova

    Supah Happy Party Set!

    Woah! First time I've seen these! Bravo! Any chance for a 1/48 set? I'll take em all!
  7. If you want to test panel line, grab a soft lead mechanical pencil - 0.3mm and try it. If you don't like it, you can erase it.
  8. Is it me or is Rothamon and Serpentor from GI Joe really the same and one character from this intro?
  9. If you want to know if the VF-0S or VF-0A were re-issues or not, get the super pack combos. Those were supposed to be fixed from the regular editions, except for the stand alone VF-0A which is a different color scheme. I would get the zeros asap. I love em for over all design and size. They look like modernized versions of VF-1 and to me looks better than a non super or strike VF-1.
  10. I think that is one of the most perfect pose of a VF-1S battroid I've seen! Beautiful! So bad ass in fact I'm going to break out my 1/48 VF-1S Hikaru now and work on detailing it. If you add slightly feint panel lines, it will look even better! If someone has Hasegawa 1/72 and Yamato 1/60 + 1/48, I would love to see the same exact pose side by side!
  11. I just saw the Bandai 1/72 model of the VF-25F Tornado set and it cost MORE than the armored 25S or F! That must be totally badass then.
  12. The main issues with the first issue / production 1/48 VF-1S Roy and Hikaru, and VF-1A Hikaru were loose nose cone (fixed with a change in tooling so the nosecone has a slot to bite onto), some floppy joints tightened. slightly loose canopy??? and crooked skulls on the tail fins. The 2nd production starting with the first issue VF-1A Max fixed all that. So 2nd issue VF-1S Hikaru + Roy, and VF-1A Max and 2nd production Hikaru, and first issue VF-1J Hikaru (regular and super pack) were all fixed. 3rd production were fairly good too with little complaints. But as time went on, around the 4th production, crooked skulls came back on a few of them since I was asked a lot to part out straight skull fins here on MW, and by the 5th or 6th production, when the 3rd re-issue Max and Millia came around, reports of exploding shoulders for the first time came out for 1/48s. This was when the wave of the super cheap Max and Millia Super 1J sets and I think the VF-0 series. Now you guys know why. There were complaints by buyers here in HK about it. I am not sure of the DRYL VF-1s shoulders at this point. Funny that the price of plastic and labor goes up but the 1/48s get cheaper yet costs more to make than a 1/60! Probably a change in factory or something. You are usually safe with 2nd - 4th production and I don't think the VF-1S had exploding / crackling joints ever but best to check with recent buyers of new stock.
  13. I know you wanted to choose between a,b or c but if this was in space, there is only one choice with the VF-1x platform: Stampede Valkyrie
  14. Motoko can have a real feminine side right? And while late and overdue but to Drifand - your collection is amazing... I need to re-shuffle my display to be more like yours. PS: Fewture Gokin GITS 2nd Gig Tachikoma with batteries finally inserted (2x AA) under low light conditions. I think it looks great with the LEDs but too bad you cannot open the control pod since that is the battery housing. Control pod cannot be removed either and ball joints are loose! I need to figure out how to take the legs off and add some resistance to the joints for better posing strength. Overall, I love it for the weight, beautiful paintjob and it's character. When I have time, I will compare it to Captain America's custom 1/18 Tachikoma kit.
  • Create New...