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New 1/60 Fan Liner


Jasonc
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At this point, I'm just about done. I just need to see what I can do about the wing landing gear, but making a functional working version isn't looking too promising. I still need to create the landing gear drop outs for the landed an flight options, but other than that, it is pretty much done. I still need some small aeshtetic items elsewhere to fix up, but other than that, I'm quite happy with it. I basically used every aspect of the line art I could find, and with some of the inconsistencies, I had to do a few educated guesses. In any case, I'll be creating .stl files of the finished parts. It took a long time, as I'm still learning the software, but I'm quite happy with the result.

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4 hours ago, Knight26 said:

Looks sweet, can't wait to see it printed.

Thanks. Since I've been at home recovering from a car accident, I had some time to wrap it up late last night. At this point, I won't know what tweaks it needs until I start printing, and with a good 3D printer en route, it's just a waiting game at this point.

So, the detail of the rear landing gear are done. These will work the same as the front landing gear options, as there just isn't a lot of room at 1/60 to make functioning landing gear with this material. Nevertheless, they should fit quite well, and HOPEFULLY, the pins in the gear parts will work well for the grounded option. I'm tempted to upload the files and pay to get it printed, but that's just my anticipation more than anything. I may start on the F203 Dragon II.

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Sorry about your car accident! I hope you're feeling better and don't have a pain in the neck leftover.

BEAUTIFUL sculpt, Jason! The lines look good and so does the assembly too. I can't wait to see this in plastic! - MT

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Very impressive stuff. Printing models at home or via some service is Im sure the way of the future for the hobby. Looks really good. cant wait.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally got my first printer, which is an Anycubic Photon Mono X (4K "ish"). I just now got it set up, and will be doing a test run of settings to get the best print with various support settings. The first run already came out, but I wasn't happy with how I set up the parts for print (kinda just starting out). I do have some pieces that I can cure and save for building, so that is always a good thing. I hope to have parts ready to go for my first dry fitting.

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Posted (edited)
On 5/25/2022 at 9:39 AM, Jasonc said:

I finally got my first printer, which is an Anycubic Photon Mono X (4K "ish"). I just now got it set up, and will be doing a test run of settings to get the best print with various support settings. The first run already came out, but I wasn't happy with how I set up the parts for print (kinda just starting out). I do have some pieces that I can cure and save for building, so that is always a good thing. I hope to have parts ready to go for my first dry fitting.

Did you get a flexible build plate for your printer? For FDM printers, it's less of a hassle than scraping the model off. Might have to print a bracket for the Z end stop though for the change in thickness.

 

Edited by wmkjr
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10 hours ago, wmkjr said:

Did you get a flexible build plate for your printer? For FDM printers, it's less of a hassle than scraping the model off. Might have to print a bracket for the Z end stop though for the change in thickness.

 

So you're saying that banging away at the base of a resin print with a chisel, hoping you don't destroy something that's taken hours to create as you attempt to pry it off the build plate, isn't fun? :p

My Elegoo Saturn has a Z Offset setting that seems to work pretty well when it comes to compensating for the thickness of the vat film and screen protector, but adding a flexible build plate might go beyond what the setting can handle. I've see the end stops you're talking about. Seems like a common approach across printers. To get the setting on the Saturn dialed in, I had to do a bunch of prints using a known calibration pattern.

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It might seem silly, but a lot of the prints I've gotten to come out well have been positioned with end blocks and bases that I manually added in, almost as if I was designing pour stubs for a resin mold.  They help stabilize the model, and can do a lot to preserve hard edges when you need them.

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On 5/29/2022 at 9:53 AM, wmkjr said:

Did you get a flexible build plate for your printer? For FDM printers, it's less of a hassle than scraping the model off. Might have to print a bracket for the Z end stop though for the change in thickness.

 

I bought a flex plate that is waiting for the Elegoo Jupiter to show up. Luckily, the latest prints have bee just fine, so they haven't been too much trouble.

12 hours ago, Chronocidal said:

It might seem silly, but a lot of the prints I've gotten to come out well have been positioned with end blocks and bases that I manually added in, almost as if I was designing pour stubs for a resin mold.  They help stabilize the model, and can do a lot to preserve hard edges when you need them.

I will have to try this out. Luckily, the prints have been coming out OK. Once I started looking at these as a recast mold, it helped me to custom the supports, and they've been doing pretty well. the main issue, is that some of these parts are a little thin. Not too thin, where they won't work, but if so, I can always do some redesign and fix the issues.

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The plane looks really cute.  The design looks more like the line art than other examples I've seen.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've been redesigning the canopies (now on my 4th run I believe). The angle of the bar that separates the 2 is a bit tricky, and I don't want to put the pin in an unsightly place. That said, I just printed, new set of the main body and canopies, and it seems to work quite well. I could redo the back canopy and really design it to where it's guaranteed to work, but TBH, if this works, I'm just sticking to what I have already. I also changed the wings and they look much better. I managed to slice this file to where each piece prints out with very little work needed for cleanup, so I am happy with that. I keep saying it to people, but pics coming soon of the actual print.

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Here's a couple pics of parts printed after a good number of tweaks.

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Today I'll be adding the magnets to the landing gear sections

 

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On 7/3/2022 at 6:45 AM, Xigfrid said:

Very nice! How did you do the canopies? We’re they printed?

Yes, canopies were printed. I still need to polish them more, but they are coming out pretty clear. here's a few images of my settings for printing them. 979920359_canopy1.jpg.21db7b89ebb142a5cd8f53200e0751ae.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/13/2022 at 8:44 PM, Bolt said:

Great job , mate ! Really love the design.

Thanks. It's still a work in progress. I have the bulk of it done now, and parts seem to fit the way I want them to. It looks like I should be putting the file up for sale very soon.

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OK, with some time on my hands, I did my final testing (canopy alignment, and the ability for it to open and close) and it is successful. With that, the files are now available for purchase. Fee for the .stl file is $26 including Paypal fee, $25 with Friends/Family. If anyone wants one printed because they do not have a printer, I can print it, but due to the fact that it does take time from other projects, and there are at times print failures for various reasons, I can print it the set for $75 personal payment or $80 with Paypal fees shipped (in the continental U.S.). I will also include pins (which will need to be cut to proper size), so all you have to do is do the cleanup, paint, etc. Just message me if you're interested. I'm happy that all this finally worked out. I can't tell you how much work I put into making this work properly.

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17 hours ago, Jasonc said:

OK, with some time on my hands, I did my final testing (canopy alignment, and the ability for it to open and close) and it is successful. With that, the files are now available for purchase. Fee for the .stl file is $26 including Paypal fee, $25 with Friends/Family. If anyone wants one printed because they do not have a printer, I can print it, but due to the fact that it does take time from other projects, and there are at times print failures for various reasons, I can print it the set for $75 personal payment or $80 with Paypal fees shipped (in the continental U.S.). I will also include pins (which will need to be cut to proper size), so all you have to do is do the cleanup, paint, etc. Just message me if you're interested. I'm happy that all this finally worked out. I can't tell you how much work I put into making this work properly.

And for what it's worth, I can attest to the high quality of @Jasonc's work. I volunteered to do some test prints of his original files and provide feedback to improve the final version. Design, fit, and finish of the parts, even at that early stage, were exceptional. I basically just had to figure out how I wanted to orient and support them for printing, which is both an art and a science. @Jasonc, if there isn't already a plan to do so, offering STL files with the supports in place as an option, based on what you've determined works well with your printer, could save folks a bunch of time and guesswork. That way all they have to do is slice and print. :D

Now for a little eye candy. Using the standard progressive wet sanding approach for canopies, and after a dip in Future at the end, this is what the front canopy section part looks like for me:

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I can post pics of the other parts, if anyone is interested, but they're basically standard grey versions of what's already been shared in this thread.

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3 hours ago, Anasazi37 said:

And for what it's worth, I can attest to the high quality of @Jasonc's work. I volunteered to do some test prints of his original files and provide feedback to improve the final version. Design, fit, and finish of the parts, even at that early stage, were exceptional. I basically just had to figure out how I wanted to orient and support them for printing, which is both an art and a science. @Jasonc, if there isn't already a plan to do so, offering STL files with the supports in place as an option, based on what you've determined works well with your printer, could save folks a bunch of time and guesswork. That way all they have to do is slice and print. :D

Now for a little eye candy. Using the standard progressive wet sanding approach for canopies, and after a dip in Future at the end, this is what the front canopy section part looks like for me:

image.png.823a935bb34b958bb5faa44a3be072fd.png

I can post pics of the other parts, if anyone is interested, but they're basically standard grey versions of what's already been shared in this thread.

Wow, that canopy is very clear. I should send you the updated body and canopy. I've updated it quite a bit so that the rear canopy opens much easier, and I kept the "roll bar" on the main body attached. I also adjusted the size of the rear section that attaches to the main body. I'll send it all over to you.

As for doing the supports for people, I don't want to do that only because based on what resin people use, it may not be feasible to use the supports I do. I also try to keep my supports medium, but keep .35mm (in general) tips and them 5mm long. That works for my printer, but it may not for older resin printers.

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3 hours ago, Anasazi37 said:

Now for a little eye candy. Using the standard progressive wet sanding approach for canopies, and after a dip in Future at the end, this is what the front canopy section part looks like for me:

Nice. Which clear resin are you using?

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That’s a great price considering the work and numerous prototypes involved! 
 

I would be interested by the stl but I need to find a painter first :)

 

I have two tips I would like to share with you:

i didn’t see any display stand option, but I have noticed that it can save a lot of place by displaying the toys mid air on a flight stand. The most practical stand I have found is the Gundam / 1:12 figure display stands which have a plastic pin. They sell for 2-3$ each on aliexpress and can be found in any Gundam stores. And it is easy to design the hole or drill it. 
 

Buy pins! I have bought hundreds of 1mm diameter pins in different lengths: 3mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm. 12mm. And never regretted it. Each time I am running short of one size I can’t imagine myself to cut the pins, sand them smooth etc. So I just buy them over and over.

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10 hours ago, Jasonc said:

Wow, that canopy is very clear. I should send you the updated body and canopy. I've updated it quite a bit so that the rear canopy opens much easier, and I kept the "roll bar" on the main body attached. I also adjusted the size of the rear section that attaches to the main body. I'll send it all over to you.

As for doing the supports for people, I don't want to do that only because based on what resin people use, it may not be feasible to use the supports I do. I also try to keep my supports medium, but keep .35mm (in general) tips and them 5mm long. That works for my printer, but it may not for older resin printers.

Would love to print the updated parts--please do send them!

You make a good point about differences in resin and type of printer. The newer mono 4K/8K models are a different animal than the older models.

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9 hours ago, arbit said:

Nice. Which clear resin are you using?

Anycubic Basic Clear, printed using an Elegoo Saturn. I'm also experimenting with Siraya Blu Clear v2, but it's a lot thicker and since the Anycubic prints are coming out nicely, I haven't spent a lot of time trying to get it dialed in. Biggest headache for me were these small "champagne bubbles" that showed up in the prints. I had to switch my tank film from FEP to NFEP and slow down the lifting speed by quite a bit to get rid of them.

2 hours ago, Xigfrid said:

i didn’t see any display stand option, but I have noticed that it can save a lot of place by displaying the toys mid air on a flight stand. The most practical stand I have found is the Gundam / 1:12 figure display stands which have a plastic pin. They sell for 2-3$ each on aliexpress and can be found in any Gundam stores. And it is easy to design the hole or drill it.

I was thinking of using a Bandai Action Base of some kind. Worst case I can drill a small hole in the printed main body part, but I have digital calipers so it wouldn't be hard to measure the diameter of the peg on whatever stand I pick and just subtract a cylinder of the same diameter from the 3D object and then print that.

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