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Yamato 1/60 v.2 Max Jenius


ruskiiVFaussie
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I think Max's 1S only appeared with Strike Packs in Macross 7, in the "Minmay Story" where they were talking about the history of Max and Miria relationship. They had a short clip of Max's 1S fighting against the Q-Rau, this time in space. So we get to see a Strike Valkyrie 1S Max.

snapshot20090507225106.jpg

While in DYRL the 1S was shown to have a black heat shield, I'm not sure if the Skull logos in the Strike Packs are black are blue since they were never shown and is probably left to fans.

While I like the blue Skull logo on the Strike Packs more, I think black Skull logos also fit more if you want consistency with the heat shield color. ^_^

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Got my TV Max today, great toy... except the thruster on the right leg wouldn't extend to open into a foot. Had to unscrew the leg just to get it out. Any tips on how to fix this so i do not have to unscrew and screw inorder to transform the toy?

This seems to be a regular problem with the 1/60's. I had this problem with the VF-1D. I was almost going to disassemble the leg, but after another attempt at yanking the thruster out, it finally gave. Not sure why the thrusters are so hard to pull out sometimes. As I stated before, I never had this problem with any 1/48. They have always come out smoothly. I'm not too concerned about it since I don't plan on really transforming them much. Fighter mode is where these shine, IMO. The shoulder issue is what really concerns me, and the less I mess with them, the less I'm worried they'll break there. Although those cases of them being broken straight out of the box isn't too reassuring either. I have a couple of VF-1A Hikarus that I still haven't opened yet. I guess I'll have to check them out just to see if the shoulders are ok.

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This seems to be a regular problem with the 1/60's. I had this problem with the VF-1D. I was almost going to disassemble the leg, but after another attempt at yanking the thruster out, it finally gave. Not sure why the thrusters are so hard to pull out sometimes. As I stated before, I never had this problem with any 1/48. They have always come out smoothly. I'm not too concerned about it since I don't plan on really transforming them much. Fighter mode is where these shine, IMO. The shoulder issue is what really concerns me, and the less I mess with them, the less I'm worried they'll break there. Although those cases of them being broken straight out of the box isn't too reassuring either. I have a couple of VF-1A Hikarus that I still haven't opened yet. I guess I'll have to check them out just to see if the shoulders are ok.

You are not alone I too had a hard time pulling out the foot/thruster with my Max 1S when I first got it. Let me tell you it was no walk in the ballpark, but I finally got it.

Edited by VF-18S Hornet
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I nearly ordered the Max 1S, until I went through this thread and came across it has a black shield. I know it's correct in having it black, but I preferred blue, it balanced more the colour scheme. In my preference opinion.

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Thanks everyone :D

are you using promodeller's weathering wash?

do u finish with another coat of something?

what did u use?

I only used promodeller's wash and some creative "removal" ^_^

But is it a waste to remove the "pure" white of the 1A TV version?

I have always admire & like the "pure" white of the TV version.

I don't really think it's so much a waste. I just think for war machines a little grit is more realistic. Well...as realistic as toys can be :p

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also, for my hikaru TV vf-1j, the pure white is starting to yellow :(

and i am one of those who prefer the war machine weathered look.

so i dont think removing the "pure" white as a waste.

rather, its a necessity

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also, for my hikaru TV vf-1j, the pure white is starting to yellow :(

I thought I'm seeing things when my VF-1J does not look that pure white as the new VF-1A Max.

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We need to inform Yamato to not use this bright white plastic on any future releases. The yellowing will be more rapid on this. They rather need to use slightly darker grey like on the 1S, or pearl it with a slight blue. Or this bright white is going to ruin all future releases of any 1/60! :unsure:
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agreed to that

still, i love my VF-1J :wub:

i've seen one of my friends vf-0s (the toy is ard 3 years old already)

it yellowed pretty badly and was the worst i seen

bear in mind, i'm in malaysia,

out of 365 days a year, we get 366 days of sun :S

Edited by honkhet
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agreed to that

still, i love my VF-1J :wub:

i've seen one of my friends vf-0s (the toy is ard 3 years old already)

it yellowed pretty badly and was the worst i seen

bear in mind, i'm in malaysia,

out of 365 days a year, we get 366 days of sun :S

Just curious, do you place your valks under the sun everyday??? ^_^

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We need to inform Yamato to not use this bright white plastic on any future releases. The yellowing will be more rapid on this. They rather need to use slightly darker grey like on the 1S, or pearl it with a slight blue. Or this bright white is going to ruin all future releases of any 1/60! :unsure:

I second the grey plastic portion. So far all the grey plastic based VFs don't really have a problem with yellowing, or least it is not apparent.

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Thanks everyone :D

I only used promodeller's wash and some creative "removal" ^_^

Nice work! Without a top coat, would the weathering smudge or stick to your fingers during transformation?

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Nice work! Without a top coat, would the weathering smudge or stick to your fingers during transformation?

Im not Rabidweezil, but I've used that wash on my models and DX toys, and it does rub off if the weathering is particularly heavy and you don't clearcoat it. But if you are using the wash to panel-line, i.e. wiping off all the wash that are on the flat surfaces etc, then those that are already inside the panel lines wont rub off, even without the clearcoat.

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Im not Rabidweezil, but I've used that wash on my models and DX toys, and it does rub off if the weathering is particularly heavy and you don't clearcoat it. But if you are using the wash to panel-line, i.e. wiping off all the wash that are on the flat surfaces etc, then those that are already inside the panel lines wont rub off, even without the clearcoat.

Guessed as much. Thanks.

On that note, how do ppl clear coat their valks? Spray once in fighter mode, then once in battroid mode? Otherwise i'd imagine you can't get it on all the parts.

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Nice work! Without a top coat, would the weathering smudge or stick to your fingers during transformation?

It might rub off a little. But I haven't noticed any significant smudging. A few transforms here and there but for the most part they are pretty much display pieces and not handled often. If anything, I'm more concerned about the stickers being moved then I am about rubbing off the weathering anyway.

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Out of curiosity, does the 1S Max have the same gray plastic that people say the 1S Roy has? If so that will calm any worries I have about yellowing because the 1S Max is the only one of the new Max valks I want.

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Oh man those weathered Max's are too sweet!

My bank does not thank you for those pics as I have just snapped and ordered the TV-1A and some weathering wash.

Who was I to think I could start selectively skipping valks?! ... Now I am on the path to ruin and a complete 1/60 V2 collection.

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