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Arcadia 1/60 VF-0S & VF-0A


joppewo

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That is an obscene fit with the plastic half of the ball in there, David. I just can't see how that ever got past QA. Maybe because once assembled, you can't see it?

I've followed along with all the other comments, photos and videos, and this one is also very helpful. Thanks for posting it up!

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Guest davidwhangchoi

That is an obscene fit with the plastic half of the ball in there, David. I just can't see how that ever got past QA. Maybe because once assembled, you can't see it?

I've followed along with all the other comments, photos and videos, and this one is also very helpful. Thanks for posting it up!

glad my little show and tell helped! i hope those who don't have any issues can at least see what's going on.

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Transformed my 0A back to fighter mode. While I was at it, I twisted the leg around and pulled it in and out a number of times. No problems. Got lucky and didn't get a bum leg.

If we use the poll as a representative sample size, then about 1 in 10 0Ds have broken a leg, and a ridiculous 1 in 4 0As have lost a leg. While a minority in both cases, that is still shockingly high.

I don't want to see double digit failure percentages in a toy this expensive. :angry:

Reconsidering my 0S preorder now...

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I need some advice about my VF-0A with the paint scratches. I've got word from HLJ that they will replace my unit free of charge. However the legs on my copy hold up fine so I'm not sure if I should take the gamble and get a new copy with possible exploding hip joints. So some opinions would be very helpful.

With other toys in my collection that have paint blemishes I'm usually fine as long as I don't need to see the area. So if they are inside the cabinets I'm fine with it. However every time I get them out to play with them I'm bummed once I notice the spot. I have no plans to armor my VF-0A up so I would always see the blemish since you can see them from the front in prominent places.

On the other hand maybe I should do it so Yetis poll has another opinion added to it. :p A 1 in 4 chance of getting a copy with a defective leg seems too much of a gamble to me.

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I need some advice about my VF-0A with the paint scratches. I've got word from HLJ that they will replace my unit free of charge. However the legs on my copy hold up fine so I'm not sure if I should take the gamble and get a new copy with possible exploding hip joints. So some opinions would be very helpful.

With other toys in my collection that have paint blemishes I'm usually fine as long as I don't need to see the area. So if they are inside the cabinets I'm fine with it. However every time I get them out to play with them I'm bummed once I notice the spot. I have no plans to armor my VF-0A up so I would always see the blemish since you can see them from the front in prominent places.

On the other hand maybe I should do it so Yetis poll has another opinion added to it. :p A 1 in 4 chance of getting a copy with a defective leg seems too much of a gamble to me.

If the blemishes arent too apparent or can it be reduced with the eraser, i would just continue with it...

But b4 you return (if thats what you r going for) maybe you might want to sound out to HLJ, if its possible to return the second time should the legs fail then....

if they are ok with it, i dont see why not, its only the hassle of going through it....

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I've transformed and posed mine a number of times with no problems over the last few months, but I've never utilized the extending hip joints. Tonight I tried extending them and one of them wont pull out at all. Is that a sign that I've got an impending hip explosion? Would it be advisable to just take the hip apart and see what's going on in there?

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Thanks. I guess I'll just have to open it up and see why it's stuck. I know there are screws holding the hip parts together, but are they glued as well? Sorry if this has been answered in the past, it's a big thread and I didn't see the info after skimming.

::EDIT::

Found your tutorial CY, I'll use that as a guide.

Edited by eriku
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Guest davidwhangchoi

Thanks. I guess I'll just have to open it up and see why it's stuck. I know there are screws holding the hip parts together, but are they glued as well? Sorry if this has been answered in the past, it's a big thread and I didn't see the info after skimming.

hey eriku, since you built a vf-1 kit, you'll be familier with taking apart the hip joint. just follow yeti's video but it's pretty much the same as a vf-1.

from the photo below, the only part that is glued is the length sides that are facing each other in center of this photo right above the guitar pick (side where the intakes tab into the body in fighter), so you have to be careful splitting them open. i used a guitar pick to avoid scratching the black paint inside the intakes

image.jpeg

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I wonder if maybe that half plastic ball as initially supposed to be some kind of rubber like material that can be compressed. Maybe they designed the two metal halves to compress the rubber ball to give it friction. Then somewhere along the line, they cheaped out and decided to make the ball out of regular plastic and forgot to resize it because it no longer compressed? Just a guess - maybe I'm giving Arcadia too much credit.

I haven't transformed my VF-0D fully yet, just partially to paint it up to weather and correct the color - now I'm afraid to. After being burned twice by Arcadia for the YF-19 AND the VF-0D - I swore off them, but that VF-0S was tempting (since I never got a Yamato one due to the floppy neck of my VF-0 low-viz) but now seeing all these problems crop up - its cemented my decision on swear off Arcadia unless something changes. :p

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I transformed my VF-0A back into Fighter-Mode. I think I understand what jenius means when he talks about the intakes won't stay in place. My legs don't have a problem so far but the intakes won't stay tabbed into place very well. If I'd grab the toy for some swooshing action they will come unpegged. Trying to rotate the legs doesn't solve the issue so I assume that the pegs on my copy are just too weak to keep them seated.

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That's not a new problem, they've always done that, going back to the Yamato version.. Those "pegs" are too shallow to offer any kind of support, and have never been more than locator pins. The only things ever really holding the legs on are the clips around the hip bar.

It's actually one thing I was really surprised that Arcadia didn't change about the design, and wished they would have. The intakes really need something more substantial to attach to.

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I have not opened my VF-0A but have a VF-0S on pre-order. This news of the legs is disturbing and makes me think the Yamato Zero valks are still better despite the flaws. Even more troubling is the fact that I want to get the GBP armor for this which requires transformation. Maybe Arcadia is looking at the armor as a "valk body cast" to keeps things together.

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I have not opened my VF-0A but have a VF-0S on pre-order. This news of the legs is disturbing and makes me think the Yamato Zero valks are still better despite the flaws. Even more troubling is the fact that I want to get the GBP armor for this which requires transformation. Maybe Arcadia is looking at the armor as a "valk body cast" to keeps things together.

Oh, hell no they aren't. Those arms dissolve and there's no "easy" fix for that like the hip problem. PLUS, despite the intakes not quite attaching for some, the Yammies would droop horribly and the backplates would sag. Unless you had the thing sitting on it's gears it was going to be droopy. And forget Gerwalk holding like it should. The Arcadia is still better even if this engineering issue is really effing frustrating and stupid.

Edited by Mommar
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Agreed, the plastic used in the early original releases was like a time bomb. People reported various portions of those valks just exploding as if the plastic had shattered like glass.

In the long run though, the fix for these is the same: shapeways parts (though I do not know if replacements for the knee joints have been made, since those are a similar problem to the shoulders).

The Arcadias have a much more refined mold, and much stronger joints, so really the only reason to pick up an older Yamato one at this point would be if you found a bargain on a later release version, or absolutely had to have one with a ghost booster, but were paranoid about bending the canards.

I'll be honest here though, I actually prefer the original knee joint on the Yamato one, and how it had a double extension. I think it was just a more interesting mechanism than the sliding knees everything uses now.

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I have the Yamato Zero Valks and display them in fighter mode. I have never transformed them but I am aware of the mold issues as my Yamato VF zeros valks both have the floppy intakes and gun pod. I have never ordered from shapeway but may need to buy some parts just in case for the future. I can definitely tell the Arcadia VF-0D and VF-0A are a tighter construction with no slop. Arcadia seemed to fix the Yamato design flaws, but at the same time introduced their own. Honestly for me, I do not transform them so not a big issue, but not as confident to dive in at these prices. I do hope Arcadia releases a ghost but I do not see that happening unless they do some sort of accessory package. I watched the reviews on youtube of the ghost on the Arcadia valk and the weapons stores do not even fit even though it was supposed to be backwards compatible.

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Well i decided to cancel my PO on the VF-0S, even though i really like it, too many doubts with the QC and with the ET VF-2S and the VF-4G, coming, too much money to spend this month.

Hopefuly it will have better QC and after Jenius review i might get it on Jan.

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