pengbuzz Posted July 30 Posted July 30 3 hours ago, wm cheng said: Hey @Gabe Q, there's a much easier way to remove that moldline now (I used to scrape it with an exacto, then sand, then Tamiya Polish and clear coat by dipping it in Future). I found these GodHand sanding sponges and you work from 2000, 4000, 6000, 8000, 10000 lightly sanding the seam and it dissappears crystal clear! I still dip my canopies in Future to make them extra shiny though, but its not to hide any scratches from the sanding anymore. Hey @pengbuzz that Klingon Battlecruiser turned out amazing!!! Great paint finish on it too! Thanks for the colour info, I have to bookmark those for future reference. Hard to believe it's been 20yrs since I bought this kit! Here's the VE-1 I did 18yrs ago for comparison when I was trying to do the smoothest coat of paint I could and weathered everything (post shading) with an airbrush - it looks too clean and slick (although I purposely tried to restrain the weathering on both of these as I thought they'd be better kept than something in used in war). Not that I've been building consistently for the last 18yrs, I've taken many years off but I like seeing the progress. Nice save/ work on these, WM!! And thanks! It's still kind of a work in progress; glad the references are of help to you! Quote
Papa Rat Posted July 30 Posted July 30 (edited) @wm cheng I did a test fit on the VE-1 I got for my birthday a month ago. My wife and kid know what I like. ♥️ Anyway, I have been focusing on old vintage kits mostly but look forward to jumping back in and getting it all built up this year. If you have a link to more photos or post them here I’d love to see more. What you have shared so far is beautiful and very inspiring. 👍 Edited July 30 by Papa Rat Quote
nightmareB4macross Posted July 30 Posted July 30 You guys really know how to make a kit really stand out. Excellent talent. Working on the gun details. And yes, definitely keeping the firing mechanism. Pew, pew, pew. Quote
SteveTheFish Posted July 30 Posted July 30 Tonight I finished laying down decals for my 1:2500 scale Enterprise E model kit. Next I'll have to apply a satin clear coat and color in the windows with an alcohol pen. Quote
Goodman Models Posted July 30 Posted July 30 On 7/25/2025 at 3:19 PM, Big s said: It’s doable, but can be very risky. You kinda have to sand the lop layer a bit, and poke a tiny hole for the softener to soak through. This method runs a few scary risks since the weathering is already applied and can just make everything even more noticeable, or ruin the decal the best way I’lve found to do decals from the start is after the base colors are layed down to use a gloss coat and then lay them down. After they dry, use the softener like microsol or Mr marksofter and usually that allows it to conform better. You can do the needle trick if there is a spot the decal didn’t conform to well like with a panel line and the softener gets under there and usually does the trick. Then there’s a couple other techniques that work well for blending the edge to make it disappear. You can mix your base color with some clear and spray around the edges to blend them in, or there’s the method that takes a bit more work and that’s to put a few layers of gloss over the decal and use a smoother sand paper and gently sand at the edges to level them down. Be very careful not to over sand and ruin the decal or the base color. Then add a final gloss to make sure the edge is gone. As long as the edge is gone using whatever method works best, then you can do all the weathering and final top coating to finish up. All of what big said; I’ve had success removing decals by carefully sanding them off and doing a bit of touch ups with the airbrush and then reapplying new decals. Just take your time. Quote
Papa Rat Posted July 30 Posted July 30 24 minutes ago, Goodman Models said: All of what big said; I’ve had success removing decals by carefully sanding them off and doing a bit of touch ups with the airbrush and then reapplying new decals. Just take your time. Thanks. Quote
Big s Posted July 30 Posted July 30 1 hour ago, Goodman Models said: All of what big said; I’ve had success removing decals by carefully sanding them off and doing a bit of touch ups with the airbrush and then reapplying new decals. Just take your time. I think that’s a good option, but there are some cases where there isn’t another set of decals easily available. I think he was working on an older kit, so finding a replacement would also be finding the older kit again Quote
Papa Rat Posted July 30 Posted July 30 4 minutes ago, Big s said: I think that’s a good option, but there are some cases where there isn’t another set of decals easily available. I think he was working on an older kit, so finding a replacement would also be finding the older kit again This brings up a question…do people print their own decals and if so is it something that requires special equipment? I have a scanner and printer if it’s as easy as using a special decal paper or something. Quote
pengbuzz Posted July 30 Posted July 30 (edited) 3 hours ago, Papa Rat said: This brings up a question…do people print their own decals and if so is it something that requires special equipment? I have a scanner and printer if it’s as easy as using a special decal paper or something. Actually, people do, and it is as easy as special paper! They sell blank decal paper (both clear and white blank films), and you can buy them for either inkjet or laser printer. The only drawback is that unless you have an "ALPS" printer, you cannot print white (hence the white decal film). When you print it, you do need to seal it with clearcoat (unless it's laser), and you have to cur the decals out individually, as the film is one solid sheet across the paper. Link to Expert's choice (instructions and maker of one brand): https://www.bare-metal.com/experts-choice-decal-film.html Edited July 30 by pengbuzz Quote
Papa Rat Posted July 30 Posted July 30 10 minutes ago, pengbuzz said: Actually, people do, and it is as easy as special paper! They sell blank decal paper (both clear and white blank films), and you can buy them for either inkjet or laser printer. The only drawback is that unless you have an "ALPS" printer, you cannot print white (hence the white decal film). When you print it, you do need to seal it with clearcoat (unless it's laser), and you have to cur the decals out individually, as the film is one solid sheet across the paper. Wow!!!! That’s wonderful. Thanks so much. Quote
pengbuzz Posted July 30 Posted July 30 (edited) 4 minutes ago, Papa Rat said: Wow!!!! That’s wonderful. Thanks so much. I updated my post with a link to one of the sites. But here it is again: https://www.bare-metal.com/experts-choice-decal-film.html Also: if you don't have photoshop, there's a version very much like it online called photopea that works the same way for designing decals (and other stuff): https://www.photopea.com/ You can load fonts into it as well, and there are a lot of places online that have free fonts to use for various projects (as long as you don't try to sell the work!). I've found many for star trek ships, macross, star wars, etc. as well as symbols and whatnot. Edited July 30 by pengbuzz Quote
Papa Rat Posted July 30 Posted July 30 (edited) 10 minutes ago, pengbuzz said: I updated my post with a link to one of the sites. But here it is again: https://www.bare-metal.com/experts-choice-decal-film.html Also: if you don't have photoshop, there's a version very much like it online called photopea that works the same way for designing decals (and other stuff): https://www.photopea.com/ You can load fonts into it as well, and there are a lot of places online that have free fonts to use for various projects (as long as you don't try to sell the work!). I've found many for star trek ships, macross, star wars, etc. as well as symbols and whatnot. Wow. Thanks for all the info and links. Maybe I’ll order some sheets to play with. I imagine I could scan in decal sheets from these old kits and make backups if the scans work out. You rock Pengbuzz Edited July 30 by Papa Rat Quote
pengbuzz Posted July 30 Posted July 30 12 minutes ago, Papa Rat said: Wow. Thanks for all the info and links. Maybe I’ll order some sheets to play with. I imagine I could scan in decal sheets from these old kits and make backups if the scans work out. You rock Pengbuzz No problem, Papa Rat! I often use a digital camera to photograph sets I think may not work, or I'll look them up online (sometimes scalemates.com has images of decal sheets for specific kits). Quote
Papa Rat Posted July 30 Posted July 30 16 minutes ago, pengbuzz said: No problem, Papa Rat! I often use a digital camera to photograph sets I think may not work, or I'll look them up online (sometimes scalemates.com has images of decal sheets for specific kits). 👍 Quote
SteveTheFish Posted July 31 Posted July 31 5 hours ago, pengbuzz said: Actually, people do, and it is as easy as special paper! They sell blank decal paper (both clear and white blank films), and you can buy them for either inkjet or laser printer. The only drawback is that unless you have an "ALPS" printer, you cannot print white (hence the white decal film). When you print it, you do need to seal it with clearcoat (unless it's laser), and you have to cur the decals out individually, as the film is one solid sheet across the paper. Link to Expert's choice (instructions and maker of one brand): https://www.bare-metal.com/experts-choice-decal-film.html ALPS printers... It's been many years since I last attended Wonder Festival, which was just weekend (the one in Chiba, not Wonder Fest in Kentucky (although I did get to go there once about 9 years ago)), but there was one dealer who was selling ALPS printers. I have no idea if they even make ink for those printers anymore. I've only encountered one, when I worked at Aoshima. I think you have to tell it to print white and then the colors on top of the white. I don't know what software is used or if that is just a button you can press on it. They had a laptop running Windows XP just to use that printer, since they are only 32-bit compatible. With the way 3D printing is becoming so popular, it's hard to believe that there isn't such a printer these days for people to make their own decals affordably. I wouldn't mind getting one. As it is, I've only really just done decals for lighter-colored models and such. Quote
Papa Rat Posted July 31 Posted July 31 (edited) @SteveTheFish Sounds cool. Rippin into this little 1/35 Artpla Ma.K. As fast as I can. Got it primed in Mahogany, did a first round of seam removal/putty. Moving into a second round of sanding/putty to tighten things up. Got a bit of MR Color 28 on the exposed frame parts and hand. Once seams are completely gone and final bits attached I’m going in for brush painting lacquers. I wanted to do this for my last build but chickened out and went back to the airbrush. Well the subject matter and tradition set me on a certain trajectory to try out something new and experimental for me. So excited 😆 Edited July 31 by Papa Rat Quote
nightmareB4macross Posted July 31 Posted July 31 14 hours ago, Papa Rat said: @SteveTheFish Sounds cool. Rippin into this little 1/35 Artpla Ma.K. As fast as I can. Got it primed in Mahogany, did a first round of seam removal/putty. Moving into a second round of sanding/putty to tighten things up. Got a bit of MR Color 28 on the exposed frame parts and hand. Once seams are completely gone and final bits attached I’m going in for brush painting lacquers. I wanted to do this for my last build but chickened out and went back to the airbrush. Well the subject matter and tradition set me on a certain trajectory to try out something new and experimental for me. So excited 😆 Wow. You sir are a kit building machine. Quote
Papa Rat Posted July 31 Posted July 31 (edited) 11 minutes ago, nightmareB4macross said: Let’s compare. Hahaha. I stay up late after I get the kiddo to bed so I can find some free time. I have to act fast if I want to get any building done. Been doing too many late nights lately. Running on 5 hours of sleep on consecutive days catches up to me at work. Not getting any younger over here. Wow! Getting closer. It’s so nice to see these two side by side. Once that primer and paint goes down! Can’t wait. Edited July 31 by Papa Rat Quote
Thom Posted July 31 Posted July 31 Looking good there @nightmareB4macross! The mods to that gun are sick! Quote
Papa Rat Posted August 1 Posted August 1 (edited) Two coats before bedtime. Back at it tomorrow night for another coat or more. Regardless of the outcome I’m really enjoying this process. It’s very calming and its randomness makes it exciting. Main armor is Mr Color 21 Middle Stone over mahogany primer. Wanting to do some markings in an off white and I’m thinking the Neupanzerschrecks would look good in Mr color 512 Russian Green ? Not sure. Edited August 1 by Papa Rat Quote
tekering Posted August 1 Posted August 1 I love the mottled weathering pattern you've got going there. Quote
Papa Rat Posted August 1 Posted August 1 1 minute ago, tekering said: I love the mottled weathering pattern you've got going there. Hey thanks! Quote
Duymon Posted August 1 Posted August 1 This is ~3.5 months of 3d modelling work. Translating metal mini's into 3d prints and updating them to artwork standard has been a blast Quote
Papa Rat Posted August 1 Posted August 1 (edited) 2 hours ago, Duymon said: This is ~3.5 months of 3d modelling work. Translating metal mini's into 3d prints and updating them to artwork standard has been a blast Looks great. Can you remind me what tabletop game these are for? Edited August 1 by Papa Rat Spelling Quote
Big s Posted August 1 Posted August 1 9 hours ago, Papa Rat said: Two coats before bedtime. Back at it tomorrow night for another coat or more. Regardless of the outcome I’m really enjoying this process. It’s very calming and its randomness makes it exciting. Main armor is Mr Color 21 Middle Stone over mahogany primer. Wanting to do some markings in an off white and I’m thinking the Neupanzerschrecks would look good in Mr color 512 Russian Green ? Not sure. You’re like a machine. I started my project a couple weeks ago and barely where I can start painting. The mods I added were extremely minor, nothing time consuming, but I’m definitely at a slower pace. Can’t wait to see your project done Quote
Big s Posted August 1 Posted August 1 2 hours ago, Duymon said: This is ~3.5 months of 3d modelling work. Translating metal mini's into 3d prints and updating them to artwork standard has been a blast These all look really cool 19 hours ago, nightmareB4macross said: Let’s compare. Definitely a wild amount of work and it’s definitely paying off Quote
Papa Rat Posted August 1 Posted August 1 9 minutes ago, Big s said: You’re like a machine. I started my project a couple weeks ago and barely where I can start painting. The mods I added were extremely minor, nothing time consuming, but I’m definitely at a slower pace. Can’t wait to see your project done Yeah this kit is tiny at 1/35 and I’m doing a straight build which allows me to progress rather quickly. I may add a base to this which will haven’t done before. Maybe add a 1/35 scale animal buddy in there if I can find one in time? I'm also excited to see your build. Make sure and post some progress shots. 👍 Quote
Big s Posted August 1 Posted August 1 1 hour ago, Papa Rat said: Maybe add a 1/35 scale animal buddy in there if I can find one in time? That would be cool, wasn’t sure if the thing was a lunar type though. Maybe an animal buddy in a space suit if it is. Or maybe get some plastic sheets and do something like a hanger/ maintenance area display Quote
Papa Rat Posted August 1 Posted August 1 (edited) 35 minutes ago, Big s said: That would be cool, wasn’t sure if the thing was a lunar type though. Maybe an animal buddy in a space suit if it is. Or maybe get some plastic sheets and do something like a hanger/ maintenance area display This is a land based version lacking propulsion on the back. Went ahead and ordered that Tamiya livestock set. Got my eyes on a baby 🐖 or 🪿 Edited August 1 by Papa Rat Quote
Duymon Posted August 1 Posted August 1 5 hours ago, Papa Rat said: Looks great. Can you remind me what tabletop game these are for? They will eventually be used for Heavy Gear Blitz Quote
Big s Posted August 1 Posted August 1 4 hours ago, Papa Rat said: This is a land based version lacking propulsion on the back. Went ahead and ordered that Tamiya livestock set. Got my eyes on a baby 🐖 or 🪿 Seeing how this is an unmanned unit, I guess it would make sense that it would be friendly to livestock. I honestly don’t know all the lore on Machinen Krieger and am kinda curious about how far the AI goes in the series since there seem to be several different types of unmanned units. Quote
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