Jump to content

Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV


Urashiman

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, MechTech said:

OOoooh! 400th page of this thread (for this version). - MT

Yeah! the other threads never went this far 😮

 

MKI - 36 pages

MKII - 31 pages

MKIII - 44 pages

Edited by Urashiman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!! 

I'm making some progress with the YF-23, the landing gear which again is usually a royal pain for me actually turned out pretty good. 

Very special thanks to @Chas for the Fighter pilots. 😎👍 (The kit does not include one.) 

Looking good @Rock, that's going to be one very detailed Tomcat cockpit! 

 

20240101_134236.jpg

20240101_134300.jpg

20240101_134314.jpg

20240101_134342.jpg

20240101_134408.jpg

20240101_134421.jpg

20240101_134456.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Thom said:

@Rock I'm assuming the Eduard is on the left. Get that painted up and it will look awesome!

On it. Basic colors in all that is left is cleanup, detail painting and washes/weathering. Closed canopy with pilots so nothing too crazy. Just trying out different options with each Tamiya build I do.

 

It [Eduard] looks really nice and fits together like a dream... that being said Tamiya's is no slouch either. If you have a min look up yhe recent book, "Super Detailing the F-14 Tomcat." It just released late 2023, is dual language, and is 1000% bat-crap crazy on what you can do the the 1/48 OOB cockpit!

 

 

20240101_214446.jpg

Edited by Rock
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As promised, here are the pics between the last I posted and my most recent update-

 

So first, test poses to ensure the armor would move correctly on the figure:

100_0241.JPG.28766e4729edee1c5fb4af02881844ed.JPG100_0242.JPG.a7517ffaca744f4e725e512a60714e91.JPG100_0243.JPG.8f58df8b9112982c3b84f8c2ecfca3f5.JPG100_0244.JPG.69cfd78f96018f68bf91bcc86ea79e37.JPG100_0245.JPG.c5b1f762c61a3f0179726fa7048e0b83.JPG100_0246.JPG.973fde810109a79ddda44bf5963e8798.JPG100_0247.JPG.d657cb05a400abbc4e88ff566f426c46.JPG

 

Then it was time to cast Murphy's unhelmeted face (still working on this BTW):

100_0248.JPG.89f6ce236a301a984cbc3b03e445ee74.JPG100_0257.JPG.6c827d28872ff7d424581d97afa26f59.JPG100_0259.JPG.6bc02ba148ff7ab6c489b36e859b240f.JPG

I made a mold of the face using Plaster of Paris (making sure to keep the entire thing cool until it set, so Murphy didn't end up looking like Emil at the steel factory!). I then poured Hot Melt Glue into the mold (with Vaseline as a mold release) and let that cool, then pulled it out when done.

 

Then, filling areas on the armor that were marred when I cut the armor apart:

100_0260.JPG.c5b8a2f4bff0927a8e0c438325c9c966.JPG100_0261.JPG.eeae6685ea7a6cc50fe8517d8ae8b9f0.JPG

100_0262.JPG.3e3aed7127d840f8c18605225fe86f7f.JPG

First: a dam made out of masking tape was applied; then, the hot glue was poured into the void and allowed to harden. After that, sanding to match the contour of the armor and a masking tape "patch" that would be smoothed down to prevent anything from making an uneven surface.

 

Next: foiling the armor.

Stay tuned...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

As promised, here are the pics between the last I posted and my most recent update-

 

So first, test poses to ensure the armor would move correctly on the figure:

100_0241.JPG.28766e4729edee1c5fb4af02881844ed.JPG100_0242.JPG.a7517ffaca744f4e725e512a60714e91.JPG100_0243.JPG.8f58df8b9112982c3b84f8c2ecfca3f5.JPG100_0244.JPG.69cfd78f96018f68bf91bcc86ea79e37.JPG100_0245.JPG.c5b1f762c61a3f0179726fa7048e0b83.JPG100_0246.JPG.973fde810109a79ddda44bf5963e8798.JPG100_0247.JPG.d657cb05a400abbc4e88ff566f426c46.JPG

 

Then it was time to cast Murphy's unhelmeted face (still working on this BTW):

100_0248.JPG.89f6ce236a301a984cbc3b03e445ee74.JPG100_0257.JPG.6c827d28872ff7d424581d97afa26f59.JPG100_0259.JPG.6bc02ba148ff7ab6c489b36e859b240f.JPG

I made a mold of the face using Plaster of Paris (making sure to keep the entire thing cool until it set, so Murphy didn't end up looking like Emil at the steel factory!). I then poured Hot Melt Glue into the mold (with Vaseline as a mold release) and let that cool, then pulled it out when done.

 

Then, filling areas on the armor that were marred when I cut the armor apart:

100_0260.JPG.c5b8a2f4bff0927a8e0c438325c9c966.JPG100_0261.JPG.eeae6685ea7a6cc50fe8517d8ae8b9f0.JPG

100_0262.JPG.3e3aed7127d840f8c18605225fe86f7f.JPG

First: a dam made out of masking tape was applied; then, the hot glue was poured into the void and allowed to harden. After that, sanding to match the contour of the armor and a masking tape "patch" that would be smoothed down to prevent anything from making an uneven surface.

 

Next: foiling the armor.

Stay tuned...

You always have the most entertaining projects going, I’ll definitely be staying tuned.

And for everyone else working on a project here, I wish you all a productive new year 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doing my usual jumping around from kit to kit, I put some plumbing into the wheel bays of Academy's 1/72 F-14. Used some lead wire secured with CA. There's a lot more that needs to be in there, but I'm banking on keeping my sanity.😀

tN3ssDJ.jpg

mOOcY5l.jpg

And the resin seats showed up for the D-variant. Now those others I was kit-bashing together will show up.

SDl4GIi.jpg

Thom

 

 

Edited by Thom
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@pengbuzz Your Robocop mods look AWESOME! You can tell its a work of love!

@505thAirborne Your '23 is looking great! Still hard to believe that plane didn't win the fighter competition.

@Rock That is a cool looking cockpit. The new details look MUCH better.

@Thom Your plumbing is a GREAT touch! it adds a bunch of detail that normally gets missed. - MT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So many great builds everyone!

I cannot comment on them all.

here is what I had on the workbench yesterday. My brother wanted a 3D printed Zelda from the newest instalment for his fiancée. I printed it in two sizes. He takes the bigger one. My wife wants to paint the small one and gift it to a friend of us.

Lots of sanding and puttying.

IMG_5152.jpeg.9c7cb7ca5e399ff9be666b56e2135dd9.jpeg

IMG_5153.jpeg.9636d72f48223bd4bf0029213c2b66b1.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tenor.gif.e081de6029e4cf2095c9de771c6e955d.gif

😉🤣

Edited by Chas
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A lot of cool stuff going on here!

@Thom Your F-14 is looking real nice with all that extra detail you're adding. I don't have the patience for all that anymore because, like you said, "sanity"!

@electric indigo The paint on your intruder is so perfectly demarcated. You must be the best at masking for your paint jobs. I'm always impressed by the quality and attention to detail of your builds.

@Urashiman That resin Zelda looks very cleanly printed. I think with a print like that, it would look great painted even with minimal prep work.

Seeing all the cool stuff here makes me want to set up my workbench again so bad! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

UPDATE: As promised, the foiling process I use-

 

1) Make sure the area to be foiled is clean; use rubbing alcohol to wipe away any debris, residual mold release or skin oil.

100_0292.JPG.9aa6f12f090b7680f9cee58270535aaf.JPG

 

2) apply the foil evenly; I tend to "roll" it across the surface slowly so that it minimizes air bubbles getting trapped. Run your fingernail along the edge to "mark out" where you want to trim the foil.

100_0293.JPG.67af76b61f91652f4e059c34a5062c36.JPG

 

3) After trimming, use a burnisher (mine is an old Xacto version with a ball on one end and a large flat plastic blade on the other) to smooth down the foil. Prick any air bubbles with the tip of an Xacto knife and smooth down with the burnishing tool.

100_0294.JPG.f2bcedec6cb321600c5dfe8b532f5fb8.JPG

 

4) Use 400 grit (or finer) sandpaper to give the foil a "brushed metal" look; make sure to go in one direction only, and be careful of how much pressure you use in sanding the foil. Too much can tear it and make a mess with the adhesive. For fine or detailed areas: cut the foil into smaller sections and burnish starting with a cotton swab. then move to using a toothpick for panel lines and finely detailed nooks and crannies.

100_0295.JPG.606a49b6814c098771625301f33f3b71.JPG

 

5) After sanding the foil lightly, use #0000 steel wool to smooth it and burnish it down further.

100_0296.JPG.289a5b5ea4f1bbdf4ef393c761655f84.JPG

 

6) After buffing with the steel wool, go over the details one more time with either a cotton swab or toothpick, re-buff with steel wool, then blow whatever debris from the steel wool off with compressed air/ hair dryer/ your breath. Wipe down one last time with rubbing alcohol, then seal with your usual brand of clearcoat (particularly if you want the "laminated titanium" look of Robo here):

100_0297.JPG.8a8d09a8b47a3249ab4d9840e3e6269d.JPG

Stay tuned...Murphy's law head is next....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Robocop looking really good there @pengbuzz! Over here an early morning hack and cut job to get the  closed gear doors done on the Academy Superhornet.... I'm getting better at this... Since Academy can't seem to be bothered with giving you a closed door option... or pilots... 🤔 🙄 

20240106_064519.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@pengbuzz He be shiney!:D 

@derex3592 Nice work on the gear doors. And really, if a company does not supply closed gear doors, then the ones they do have should fit. Sometimes, it's like they have one person designing the aperture and another doing the doors and they purposefully give one the wrong dimensions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Murphy is looking good @pengbuzz. I've been looking at the Good Smile Co. Moderoid Robocop and ED-209 tha are both upcoming, but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

@derex3592 you've done better than I did closing up the bays on my Academy F18, but then the canopy cracked and so it sits unfinished in my stash. Hope you have better luck than me.

After building the redesigned Academy God Phoenix I was pleased, but still not quite satisfied so I got Wave's, screen accurate kit and, although it is smaller, I am much more satisfied with it. Unlike the Academy kit, it did not come with a stand, so I modified an old one from my spares with some images from the 'net and glossy photo paper.

20240106_151256.jpg.2df48f61d729324355b112399fef8e0d.jpg20240106_151239.jpg.c58e03ba7a789c34c18596d54946089c.jpg

Edited by Chas
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Chas said:

Murphy is looking good @pengbuzz. I've been looking at the Good Smile Co. Moderoid Robocop and ED-209 tha are both upcoming, but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

@derex3592 you've done better than I did closing up the bays on my Academy F18, but then the canopy cracked and so it sits unfinished in my stash. Hope you have better luck than me.

After building the redesigned Academy God Phoenix I was pleased, but still not quite satisfied so I got Wave's, screen accurate kit and, although it is smaller, I am much more satisfied with it. Unlike the Academy kit, it did not come with a stand, so I modified an old one from my spares with some images from the 'net and glossy photo paper.

20240106_151256.jpg.2df48f61d729324355b112399fef8e0d.jpg20240106_151239.jpg.c58e03ba7a789c34c18596d54946089c.jpg

That’s a nice build. Looks great and love the stand

i love the moderoid ED209. That’s a nice big kit. I recently preordered the Robocop to go with. I’m not sure if it’s too wide though. Sometimes I look at pictures and Robocop looks thinner to the sides and other times a bit wider. The model looks a bit on the wider side of things. I’m gonna try experimenting with some metallics to see if I can get that treated titanium look without overdoing things. It’s something I really haven’t tried much, but I figured it’s not a rare kit and will be easy to replace in case I totally screw up

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks! Of the two I am most interested in the Ed 209, but I've got kits pre-ordered every month from now 'till June, so I've been holding off on it. Don't  know how much longer I can resist.

Decided to work on Nausciaa's Gunship of the Valley of the Wind for my next build. I've got two Boxings of the kit: the Tsukuda Boxing from '84 & a Bandai Boxing from 2004.

Scalemates says the Bandai is a reboxig of the '84 kit, which is what I've read and heard since forever, but my eyes are telling me a differet story. At some point Bandai engineered a whole new kit. Parts layout on the sprues is completely different, not to mention the parts themselves being different sizes and shapes with different details.

Is anyone here a member at scalemates? Thinking they might want to know their info needs updating.

20240106_182026.jpg.e26456339f61f71b74e7fdabd63ad81c.jpg

Tsukuda on left Bandai on right.

20240106_182134.jpg.6c21726da3124e344f862744e8e808f9.jpg

Bandai

20240106_182126.jpg.5a66282f884ca463b10dd25bb400e88e.jpg

Tsukuda

 

Edited by Chas
Link to comment
Share on other sites

UPDATE: alternate head self-destructed on me this morning after I just got done painting it.

Threw that across the room with all my might... so it looks like there's not going to be an alternate head. Sorry folks. :(

Just going to continue on with finishing details and the backdrop for the diorama.

Stay tuned.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...