anubis20 Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 (edited) Sorry to revive a zombie thread but I just got mine from that HLJ sale after waxing the car today ill get to counting the screws. I also ordered the set of paints made for this set. Hopefully they arrive by next week so i can get started on the kit. Edited September 26, 2012 by anubis20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stark1975 Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 Even though I have the built version, I've been tempted, especially with the great upgrades people have made to theirs, like the lights in the leg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anubis20 Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 Got my pre-mixed paints feom Yamato today will begin detailing what I have built so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anubis20 Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 Progress so far... Detailed what I have built so far and will be applying some water slides today. I will continue the build today. these few parts took a little bit to detail so i will be definitely be detailing the ARMD last cause those will definitely take a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anubis20 Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Assembly continues Im gonna have to slow down now and bring out the airbrush for the thrusters on the chest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wm cheng Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Hey great work so far! Did you know about reversing the shoulder antennas? We think that they put them on backwards since in the original configuration, the antennas can't be swung so that they are forward and parallel with the rest of the SDF-1. However, if you reversed the antennas, then they have full range of motion - it was one of the first corrections I did with my toy (and its even easier if you have the kit since you didn't have to disassemble anything). Just wanted to let you know before you got too far along. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anubis20 Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 (edited) Hey great work so far! Did you know about reversing the shoulder antennas? We think that they put them on backwards since in the original configuration, the antennas can't be swung so that they are forward and parallel with the rest of the SDF-1. However, if you reversed the antennas, then they have full range of motion - it was one of the first corrections I did with my toy (and its even easier if you have the kit since you didn't have to disassemble anything). Just wanted to let you know before you got too far along. Good luck! Do you have any pics of the correct way? I put them on according to the manual, I had them installed the wrong way a couple of times lol. Here is my final update for the week. Im taking a break during the weekend. I painted the thrusters silver but let the inside the original gunmetal color. Next up is the legs and detailing Macross city Edited October 6, 2012 by anubis20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wm cheng Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 It's here on the 2nd page of my thread #39 http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=34450&view=findpost&p=895337 Mid way through, you will see a picture on the left (which is Yamato way) and the picture on the right is the flipped way that allows the full range of motion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anubis20 Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 It's here on the 2nd page of my thread #39 http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=34450&view=findpost&p=895337 Mid way through, you will see a picture on the left (which is Yamato way) and the picture on the right is the flipped way that allows the full range of motion. Thanks! I see it now.. And thats how i originally had them and had to stare at the manual to figure them out lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derex3592 Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Great job so far! Even though I have the toy version, part of me wants to attempt one of these someday. I wish I had known about the shoulder guns fix before I superglued in the screw covers on mine! ohhhh well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anubis20 Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 (edited) Here is where im at. Next up is the legs... Ill leave the armds for last. Those are gonna take a while Edited October 17, 2012 by anubis20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 It's coming together nicely! I'm still throwing around gettingone of these. - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benson13 Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 (edited) It's coming together nicely! I'm still throwing around gettingone of these. - MT I'm telling you man, these are the centerpiece to any half serious or more Macross collection. The only improvement I would make is a stellar paint job by WMCheng. Other than that I love it. Edited October 28, 2012 by Benson13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 Thanks Benson! Now I gotta fit it into my budget (alongside the lathe). - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Hey Anubis, How did you get the Yamato pre-mixed paints? Was it through the proxy service in your sig? Also, how much did it end up costing you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 (edited) A question to those who have worked on or are working on this now. How the heck did you identify the screws? It could be because I'm a newbie at this, but I'm finding it near impossible to tell which screw is which letter in the assembly manual.kitt They just lump a whole bunch of them into several little baggies. The heads look nothing like the diagrams so all I've got are dimensions (which isn't easy trying to determine between a 1.5mm diameter and a 1.8mm diameter when the difference is so tiny). Update: Alright, so I was able to identify them through parting them out and using process of elimination. Some of them were confusing because they had the same measurements, had rounded heads, but the heads were of different thickness or the lengths were off by .1 or .2 mm. The most confusing were the screws labeled as "A". I had 18 of them in one bag. 2 in another bag that I'm still not sure they're "A" screws, but they don't fit any other description. However the thread pitch is different from the rest of the A's. So it seems I had the following: A x 18 (missing 2 unless those screws with different pitch will work) B x 16 (correct) C x 30 (missing 4) D x 8 (2 more than needed) E x 16 (10 more than needed >.<) F x 75 (missing G x 4 (correct) H x 5 (correct) I x 2 (correct) J x 6 (missing 2) K x 2 (correct) L x 4 (correct) M x 1 (correct) Honestly, they should be ashamed for screwing the pooch on the count of so many screws. Maybe if they had separated them properly, it would have made it easier for them to tell how many were packaged as well... Update 2: Good news is that HLJ is going to help me out and get the screws from Yamato for me. Once again showing that they are the best place for me to get Yamato items since they have always helped me in the past with no hassle. Edited November 8, 2012 by MacrossJunkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mommar Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I'm telling you man, these are the centerpiece to any half serious or more Macross collection. The only improvement I would make is a stellar paint job by WMCheng. Other than that I love it. I'm still waiting on my SDFM centerpiece. I never liked the DYRL iteration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benson13 Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I'm still waiting on my SDFM centerpiece. I never liked the DYRL iteration. I'd like one of those too. That Matchbox one just ain't cutting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mommar Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 So far I'm still sticking with the little Die cast Matchbox one my parents used to bribe me into getting my tetanus shots back before starting Kindergarten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EXO Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 Hey Anubis, great job so far! Can you tell what kind of paints Yamato sent you? Acrylics? Enamels? I'm wondering if they actually send out the exact paints they use on their toys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojacko Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 ive been planning to get me one of this kits....thanks for reviving this thread.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 I'm starting to plan out what I'm going to do with mine. I have the decals, materials and tools I want to use now (I think). I'm going to try putting blue LEDs in each of the thrusters to simulate this: I found 1.8mm LEDs from this site, http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com, which I believe should be small enough to fit within the thruster wells. They also have switches and a 3V cell battery holders that should fit within the confines of the leg, hopefully. I fitted the right leg piece together to try to see how I might do it. The switch is just a push button type and I also would like to be able to get at the battery without too much difficulty which may be easier said than done. So far, I think I might be able to affix the battery holder on the inner side of the leg just underneath the domes, drill a hole and route the wires through and then out the bottom where I'll attach the LEDs and put the switch in the pit hidden by the thruster plate. I ordered some 5/16" x 1/16" neodymium disc magnets, with 2lbs of holding force, to use instead of screws to keep the sides of the leg and the "foot" in place so I can just pull them off to get at the battery and the switch. Well, that's the plan anyway. It may or may not work out. I'll have to wait 'til everything arrives so I can see if there actually is enough clearance. This is the first time I'm trying anything like this in addition to building out my first model from pieces cut off from sprue, so hopefully I don't royally screw this up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyekye Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 I'm starting to plan out what I'm going to do with mine. I have the decals, materials and tools I want to use now (I think). I'm going to try putting blue LEDs in each of the thrusters to simulate this: I found 1.8mm LEDs from this site, http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com, which I believe should be small enough to fit within the thruster wells. They also have switches and a 3V cell battery holders that should fit within the confines of the leg, hopefully. I fitted the right leg piece together to try to see how I might do it. The switch is just a push button type and I also would like to be able to get at the battery without too much difficulty which may be easier said than done. So far, I think I might be able to affix the battery holder on the inner side of the leg just underneath the domes, drill a hole and route the wires through and then out the bottom where I'll attach the LEDs and put the switch in the pit hidden by the thruster plate. I ordered some 5/16" x 1/16" neodymium disc magnets, with 2lbs of holding force, to use instead of screws to keep the sides of the leg and the "foot" in place so I can just pull them off to get at the battery and the switch. Well, that's the plan anyway. It may or may not work out. I'll have to wait 'til everything arrives so I can see if there actually is enough clearance. This is the first time I'm trying anything like this in addition to building out my first model from pieces cut off from sprue, so hopefully I don't royally screw this up. You can place the battery holder here as well. It seems easier to replace battery this way. You just need to cut out some parts thou. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 I may try that if my original plan doesn't work out. I want to try to keep the cutting to a minimum if possible. How are you keeping the cover in place? Magnets as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyekye Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 I may try that if my original plan doesn't work out. I want to try to keep the cutting to a minimum if possible. How are you keeping the cover in place? Magnets as well? I was going to, but the parts just fit without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 It turns out that the battery holder was larger than I thought. Neither method will work here I think. I have another location I think I can put it. I'm waiting for my dremel to arrive so I can do some cutting inside the leg and make a slot to insert the battery like a coin. Testing the lights to see how they look: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted December 18, 2012 Share Posted December 18, 2012 So here's the solution I went with. I cut "coin slots" into the sides of the legs. The side with no city was easy as I could just grind down the slot I needed right from the edge. The leg containing the city was more difficult. I had to cut the slot below the city. The inner wall was the more difficult part as I had to fit the grinding disc inside. In retrospect, it probably would have been smarter if I had practiced on other things before I started going at it with the brand new Dremel I got which I've never had any experience with whatsoever (or any rotary tool for that matter). It was more difficult than I had anticipated, but I got the job done. Slot cut lower than in other leg: The battery is below the city so it's not visible: I also added magnets so that I could just take the covers off without having to mess with screws and removing the caps. They seem to hold pretty well. If I have a magnet with 2lbs of force pulling on another identical magnet, does that mean I have 4 lbs of pulling force or do magnets not work like that? I also have started applying decals after putting together the major components. The red rings are a huuuuuuuuuuge pain to apply, but I'm a total newbie when it comes to waterslide decals as well. I honestly didn't think I'd be able to do it. I also got and started using the decal sheet that WMCheng used on his. I think those decals look great and was a stroke of genius. I made a filter, or whatever the terminology is for a coating to change the overall color tone, using the same dark sea gray diluted with Future to make it more transparent. Sprayed it over the section that holds to bridge to test if it I could coat the surface without overdoing it and completely hiding the decals. It seemed to work so I'll probably be using that on the rest of the SDF-1 as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kicker773 Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 cool updatess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derex3592 Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 great job so far!!! It's gonna be awesome when ur finished! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 Nice build so far, damn I wish I bought this when it was on sale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 A quick update here. I modified the base plate and did the wiring for the LEDs and affixed them in place with some quake putty. I felt that was the best option. In case an LED burned out, I could just pull it out of the hole and replace it with another. So here's how it looks now with all the LEDs in place and powered up. I haven't put the engine nozzles on yet, but you can get a pretty good idea how it will look now. Between this and the glow-in-the-dark stickers I'll put on at the end, this thing should look pretty nice in the dark as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reïvaj Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 Looking great, MacrossJunkie!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 The mods are really making it look classy! - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Has anyone else who built this had issues with the various mechanisms on this thing? This has been a lot more work than I thought. Somehow it just doesn't fit together well or something. I've been having to sand, file, glue and carve away plastic just to get things to fit or work. Often times I've had to disassemble entire sections again because a joint was too stuck or too loose. Some holes have been too big for the screw and so were useless. Particularly when it came to putting screws into the diecast areas. Oh well. If I don't run into more issues, I might be able to finish this up soon. I'll take some progress pics soon. Just venting because this has been frustrating for me which came as a surprise since the toy version had none of these issues and I doubt they had the factory workers filing/sanding pieces just to get them to fit or move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benson13 Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Has anyone else who built this had issues with the various mechanisms on this thing? This has been a lot more work than I thought. Somehow it just doesn't fit together well or something. I've been having to sand, file, glue and carve away plastic just to get things to fit or work. Often times I've had to disassemble entire sections again because a joint was too stuck or too loose. Some holes have been too big for the screw and so were useless. Particularly when it came to putting screws into the diecast areas. Oh well. If I don't run into more issues, I might be able to finish this up soon. I'll take some progress pics soon. Just venting because this has been frustrating for me which came as a surprise since the toy version had none of these issues and I doubt they had the factory workers filing/sanding pieces just to get them to fit or move. Sorry to hear about all the pain this is causing just know that I'm looking forward to seeing your finished product. All the other stuff you've done with valks has been great so I'm excited for this build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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