Gundam Plamodel Thread IV

[slaginpit]

Real Grades are just as good if not better than MGs

[David Hingtgen]

RG GP01, and NOT the later fugly version? Very interested. (seriously, it seems 90% of the time lately, you only ever get the GP01FB, and not the basic and much better-looking IMHO GP01)

[azrael]

RG GP01, and NOT the later fugly version? Very interested. (seriously, it seems 90% of the time lately, you only ever get the GP01FB, and not the basic and much better-looking IMHO GP01)

How do you know GP01Fb isn't in the works?

[dizman]

Ooh I'm definitely in for GP01 and the soon to come 02.

[David Hingtgen]

How do you know GP01Fb isn't in the works?

I think you mis-interpreted my statement. I am glad it is the "basic" GP01. So many times you *only* get the FB variant. They can always "add-on" FB parts later, but many models/figures etc are inherently molded with the FB stuff added-on, and you can't remove it. If the FB comes first, odds are good you'll never get the original version.

[Shaorin]

RG GP01, and NOT the later fugly version? Very interested. (seriously, it seems 90% of the time lately, you only ever get the GP01FB, and not the basic and much better-looking IMHO GP01)

HEAR, HEAR!! gawd am i ever sick of BANDAI's practices in regards to the GP-01...

[slaginpit]

I think you mis-interpreted my statement. I am glad it is the "basic" GP01. So many times you *only* get the FB variant. They can always "add-on" FB parts later, but many models/figures etc are inherently molded with the FB stuff added-on, and you can't remove it. If the FB comes first, odds are good you'll never get the original version.

I think the FB version is sweet. Especially in the PG grade. I dont think it works well in the smaller grades. Do you have a PG GP01?

Mr. Mods. I want to take a site vote on who has pre-ordered the 3PC 1/100 MG Kysh?

How do I set something up here like that

[anime52k8]

RG GP01, and NOT the later fugly version? Very interested. (seriously, it seems 90% of the time lately, you only ever get the GP01FB, and not the basic and much better-looking IMHO GP01)

Oddly enough I agree that the non-FB version looks better. Although personally, I much prefer the GP-03 to any of the other GP variations. I'd be all over an RG GP-03. (oh god, could you imagine a GP-03 Orchis Real Grade... ).

[mechaninac]

...(oh god, could you imagine a GP-03 Orchis Real Grade... ).

I can, and it scares me, both is size/scope and price...

[azrael]

Speaking of the FB-version...

RG 1/144 RX-78 Gundam GP-01 Zephyranthes (Release Date: Jul 2013, Price: 2500 yen)

RG 1/144 RX-78 Gundam GP-01 FB Full Vernian (Release Date: Jul 2013, Price: 2500 yen)

http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2013/03/rg-1144-rx-78-gundam-gp-01-new-image.html

[lechuck]

Looks like I have to carry the torch for MG...

Strike HD

Age-2 Double Bullet

and another Bandai trumpcard suprise...

Crossbone X2 (shot lance!)

[anime52k8]

honestly, I'd buy that just for the shot lance. I want to use it with my MG GN-X

[Archer]

So, I need some tips from you guys. As a fan of many gundams, I found it kind of disappointing that a lot of designs aren't available outside of kit form, and I'm not much of a modeler. I LOVED the Rezel General Revil type, so I went ahead and ordered the Master Grade kit, which will be my first foray into any kind of modeling (save for some Zoid kids I put together as a kid).

I like gundam designs without any excessive decalling, so I won't be bothering with those.

Any tips on how to maximize a stock kit's appearance? Some people here have mentioned the importance of a top coat in the past? What exactly is the purpose of a top coat, especially since I won't be painting the kit with actual colors?

Finally, I know there are nippers for cutting sprues, but how do you guys get rid of the nub marks left over? A lot of people have mentioned sanding on other forums, but since I don't plan on painting the kit, I wonder how that sanding will look on bare plastic.

Thanks

Edited March 26, 2013 by Archer

[mechaninac]

So, I need some tips from you guys. As a fan of many gundams, I found it kind of disappointing that a lot of designs aren't available outside of kit form, and I'm not much of a modeler. I LOVED the Rezel General Revil type, so I went ahead and ordered the Master Grade kit, which will be my first foray into any kind of modeling (save for some Zoid kids I put together as a kid).

I like gundam designs without any excessive decalling, so I won't be bothering with those.

Any tips on how to maximize a stock kit's appearance? Some people here have mentioned the importance of a top coat in the past? What exactly is the purpose of a top coat, especially since I won't be painting the kit with actual colors?

Finally, I know there are nippers for cutting sprues, but how do you guys get rid of the nub marks left over? A lot of people have mentioned sanding on other forums, but since I don't plan on painting the kit, I wonder how that sanding will look on bare plastic.

Thanks

Panel lining your Gundam kit will greatly enhance its appearance. Since you're new to modeling and not really interested in advanced techniques such as washes, your best bet is to get a hold of some fine tipped gundam markers ( I'm partial to the fine tipped gray pens myself as they yield a less harsh result than the black ones). Just run the tip along inside edges and grooves until you get the desired build-up/depth of ink, let dry for a bit and then wipe with your finger until most of it is gone except for the amount you desire; repeat as many times as necessary until you've achieved the look you want. An alternate method is to park the tip on a location along the line you desire to line and let capillary action carry the ink as far as it will go, then move the tip to where the ink stopped to spread and repeat so that it travels further, then repeat until the whole edge or groove is inked (you will be left with several pinpoints of ink that you can easily clean by running a clean fingertip or thumb over the area to wipe out the excess. The best part of using gundam markers though is that if you really screw up it's easy to clean off using a Q-tip dipped with a bit of alcohol.

Regarding clear coats, the reason to use them is to seal your pen lining, washes, dry brushing, sticker/dry transfer/decal application, etc., so that they don't get worn off due to handling of the model. It also serves the purpose, in the case of a dull or flat coat, of making the kit look more like a model and less like a toy in that it tones down the shine of the bare plastic and makes the plastic look less platic-y... it tends to make everything look more unified.

The way I hadle separating parts from sprues is to use platic nippers such as PLATO model shears to cut the parts off about 1-2 mm (~ 1/16") from the part itself by having the flat part of the shears face away from the part; this leaves nubs on the part that need to be cleaned up later but prevent damage to the part by mistakingly cutting too close. Once the part is separated from the sprue tree, the nubs can be cut down much closer to the part's surface by turning the shears around so the the flat portion faces the part; just cut very close but do not touch the nipper's cutting surface to the part... you want to be as close as possible without touching. Next, use a No. 11 X-acto blade to cut the remaining bit of nub off the part until you're at the part's survace (this takes some practice and a lot of patience, so take your time); you can use the blade's edge to cut and scrape at the nub until it's gone, and you can use the back of the blade as a scraper too. Sometimes these innitial steps are enough, but most of the time you will need to sand and/or file the spot where the injection gate nub was in order to make everything nice and uniform; I like to use a 280 grit or finer sanding stick such as Micro-Mark's Flex-Pad to eliminate any surface inperfection -- don't be afraid to sand past the nub's spot; if necessary, sand the entire surface of the part. Once the part is evenly sanded down to a 400 grit level finish, use a triple grit polishing stick to get rit of any scratches sanding might have left behind; use only the side with the two different grits (the single sided grit is great for polishing clear parts but is too fine to use on regular parts as it will polish them to a high gloss). After the polishing stick you can give the whole part a further polish by rubbing it with a cotton T-shirt... it does wonders. Also, is some cases you can rub away any offending sprue nub marks with your gingernail.

Hope all this helps; I know it looks like a lot of information, but it's all kind of intuitive once you've practiced a bit. Bear in mind, however, that what I've described is what works for me; once you start you'll quickly learn what works best for you.

Good luck and happy modeling.

Edited March 27, 2013 by mechaninac

[anime52k8]

easiest way to trim parts cleanly is just snip them off with nippers leaving a little nub, slice the nub off carefully with a hobby knife, then rub over the surface with your fingernail. leaves a nice, clean surface with with minimal sign of the sprew ever being there with no sanding or polishing required.

[Archer]

Wow, thanks so much for the information guys! I don't particularly like dark black panel lines on models, as I think they are a bit too....distracting, but your idea to use a dark grey marker sounds great!

Also, how do you guys go about applying a matte finish? Do you just spray the whole model once its done, or do you take it apart, piece by piece, and spray it?

[mechaninac]

The most hastle free, least involved, way to apply a top clear coat is to use a rattle can. In my opinion it is best to spray subassemblies whenever possible when dealing with 1/144 Gundam kits; the more subassemblies the better as you'll have a much better chance to get to every nook and cranny with minimal overspray since they are much easier to handle than a whole model; with things like aircraft kits you'd be doing the whole assembled model, minus landing gears and equipment/weapons stores, but in the case of articulated humanoid mecha kits you have the luxury of separating limbs, etc. With MG (1/100) and PG (1/60) Gundam models you have even more freedom because most/all armor panels are removable, so you can spray the inner frame subassemblies and all the armor bits separately.

Always remember that successive light coats are better than one single heavy coat (go too heavy and you'll get dripping, pooling, runs, and the flat coat will lose it's dullness... not good). Also make sure to leave off or mask anything you don't want coated. And make sure to spray in a well ventillated area as free of dust as possible.

Edited March 27, 2013 by mechaninac

[dizman]

easiest way to trim parts cleanly is just snip them off with nippers leaving a little nub, slice the nub off carefully with a hobby knife, then rub over the surface with your fingernail. leaves a nice, clean surface with with minimal sign of the sprew ever being there with no sanding or polishing required.

That's about what I do too.

Keep an eye on this thread archer, lots of good information in one spot. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=38794

[renegadeleader1]

I went to my favorite comic book store in NH and picked up more HGUC GM's in my quest to collect them all. So far here's what I got.

RGM-79

RGM-79[G] (technically a 08th ms HG release)

RGM-79C

RGM-79D

RGM-79G gm command

RGM-79N

RGM-79Q

RGM-79SPII (standard type)

RGM-79 Powered GM

RGC-83 GM CANNON II

RMS-179 GM II

RGM-86R GMIII

MSA-003 Nemo (unicorn version)

RGM-89 Jegan

RGM-89S Stark Jegan

What I need

RGM-79GS

RGM-79[G] Sniper

RGM-79SPII (White Dingo)

RAG-79 aqua GM

MSA-003 Nemo (Zeta version)

Anybody know if I'm missing anything? I haven't kept up on the latest HGUC releases. Has Bandai gotten around to making a RGC-80 or original RGM-79SP sniper?

[renegadeleader1]

Oops forgot I have the RGM-79FP striker too.

[Archer]

Thanks for all the help guys!

[anime52k8]

Always remember that successive light coats are better than one single heavy coat (go too heavy and you'll get dripping, pooling, runs, and the flat coat will lose it's dullness... not good). Also make sure to leave off or mask anything you don't want coated. And make sure to spray in a well ventillated area as free of dust as possible.

also, avoid spraying when it's the air is very cold or humid. And the most useful thing I've learned to do is after shaking the can thoroughly, soak it in hot water for a few minutes, shake it again quickly, and then immediately start spraying. The paint atomizes out of the nozzle better when it's warm and that makes for more even coats that stick to the surface better. And periodically take breaks to re-heat the can (i.e. between coats), the release of pressure form using them makes them cold again very quickly.

[mechaninac]

Oops forgot I have the RGM-79FP striker too.

There are also:

1. RGM-89De Jegan ECOAS
2. RGM-96X Jesta
3. RGM-96X Jesta Cannon
4. RGM-79SP GM Sniper II has been release in the HGUC line.

[lechuck]

More Crossbone X2... (webshop exclusive btw)

[electric indigo]

Any fans of the Jesta here?

[Archer]

That Jesta looks awesome

Also, in my model kit buying craze, I also just bought an OVA version Master Grade Sinanju. Being a n00b modeler, I really don't want to deal with decals (wet or dry). Is there any way to get the stickers to look nice?

Since a lot of them are one giant piece (including black parts), I thought I could just trim out the gold part of the sticker and carefully apply.

Any thoughts?

[anime52k8]

That Jesta looks awesome

Also, in my model kit buying craze, I also just bought an OVA version Master Grade Sinanju. Being a n00b modeler, I really don't want to deal with decals (wet or dry). Is there any way to get the stickers to look nice?

Since a lot of them are one giant piece (including black parts), I thought I could just trim out the gold part of the sticker and carefully apply.

Any thoughts?

The gold decals and stickers both look like crap (trust me, I tired both). When I did mine, I just a gold Gundam marker and some future floor polish ( http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-11182-Pledge-FutureShine/dp/B000ARPH4C ).

I took all the black parts and stuck them to skewers with blu-tack, painted in the gold by hand with the Gundam marker, then dipped each piece in a cup of future after the gold paint had dried. I dipped the parts a couple times to get a solid clear coat and called it a day.

MSN-06S Sinanju (Compete) 12 by Mike - drowning in plastic, on Flickr

I did the same thing for the orange vent pieces.

[Archer]

Dang! That's a really nice looking Sinanju. Did you paint the entire model?

[anime52k8]

Dang! That's a really nice looking Sinanju. Did you paint the entire model?

the armor parts (except for the head and shield) are fully painted, the inner frame is bare plastic. Originally I applied dry transfer decals directly to bare plastic then clear coated it, but the clear coat started chipping and flaking so I decided to strip the whole thing, buy some water slide decals and paint it up semi-proper.

MSN-06S Sinanju (Compete) 19 by Mike - drowning in plastic, on Flickr

This is what it looked like with just a matte clear coat:

MSN-06S Sinanju 10 by Mike - drowning in plastic, on Flickr

Edited April 2, 2013 by anime52k8

[kanedaestes]

Oddly enough I agree that the non-FB version looks better. Although personally, I much prefer the GP-03 to any of the other GP variations. I'd be all over an RG GP-03. (oh god, could you imagine a GP-03 Orchis Real Grade... ).

Actually it has been made, just not as a RG, but as a HG and yes it is massive. You can see it on dalong.net.

So after trying to fight it I feel into the RG fold. I picked up the strike and launcher kit out of boredom in Chinatown in Chicago. While the Strike is by far no where near a favorite it did spark something. Then I got the RX-78 Mk II and it was all over. So in the mail I am currently awaitng the freedom, justice, and titans mk II to go with my Zeta, AUEG, Strike, and RX-78-2. Yeah I acquired those all within a week, which gives me stuff to work on as I work on this huge personal project that will from this point on tie up all my funds. This was the last of free fun spending for the next few months. I believe it was well worth it. I will try to squeeze the Destiny and RX-78GP in there somehow.

[anime52k8]

I've seen the HGUC GP-03, I got dangerously close to buying one from a hobby shop in SF J-town.

[renegadeleader1]

Hey guys, I want to do a simple kitbash and want to make a HGUC RGM-79[E] precession type. This is the GM Sanders used in the first episode of 08th MS team fighting Aina's prototype high mobility Zaku II. Near as I can tell the [E] type is pretty much a C type so I'm thinking of taking the C's head and shoulder armor and slapping them on the Command Space torso since its the right color. Does that sound about right?

I also have a question about the Master Grade RGM-79C Kai GM. On the decals they have a set of pilots names all of which are the guys from 0083 that served on the "immortal 4th team"(chap abel, Monsha, South Burning etc) with the exception of one name. Who the hell is "Mary"?

[anime52k8]

The GM-C is on the left and the GM-E is on the right. basically the E is the C without any of the divits in head antenna, beam saber, grab bar's on the shoulders, and all the divots in the armor.

[renegadeleader1]

Hmmmm okay thanks!

[anime52k8]

oh man, this is kind of cute: