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Yamato 1/60 VF-1A/D/J/S v2.0


Dante74

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AAAAARRRRRHHHHHH!!! I just need to wait till I can get mine from LOS. Got the 1S of course and it IS the bomb!

Yo Fatalist...can you pick me up a 1A before the 15th of this month and ship it to me here in Denver, Colorado? I'm good for it. PM me if you can please.

:ph34r:

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Got the VF-1S v2 last week and for me, this is the best VF-1S toy so far.

Looks great in all modes, the only thing I hated was the hamster pose pilot and the seat too close to the dash. I just finished rebuilding the cockpit and now it looks perfect. Time to go to sleep -_- , a pair of preview shots, more pictures tomorrow.

post-708-1220343211_thumb.jpg post-708-1220343179_thumb.jpg

Damn dude, that looks really good. Not sure why Yamato couldn't do that in the first place.

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I'll be making a post soon on my site (maybe next Monday?) with comparison pics of all the major VF-1 toys. You might find it handy... at least I hope you do, that's the point of the post. In the meantime I'll be updating old VF-1 posts so the scores present an accurate ranking. It's a pain but the summary goes: VF-1 v2.0 FTW.

That would be marvellous!

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Ya know....I'm sure its been said before, but with the fact that the heads are removeable, they really should have packed 1S heads with the 1A's, and opted out tampo printing the numbers on. Just for the sake of customization. And the fact that people would probably buy TWICE as many 1A's all at one time.

Think about it Yamato.

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Quick question...I was considering ordering a VF-1A Hikaru from HLJ with EMS shipping. If I put an order in today...that means that it would prob. go out in the morning (US time) how long should it take to get to Colorado? Do you think I would have it within 7 days? Anyone who orders through HLJ living in California please do let me know ASAP. THANKS!

:ph34r:

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Quick question...I was considering ordering a VF-1A Hikaru from HLJ with EMS shipping. If I put an order in today...that means that it would prob. go out in the morning (US time) how long should it take to get to Colorado? Do you think I would have it within 7 days? Anyone who orders through HLJ living in California please do let me know ASAP. THANKS!

:ph34r:

IIRC, if you place the order today, then tomorrow (maybe) you will get an email confirming the order and appearing in your placed orders. At that point you can go online and choose the option to ship available orders, which will take a day (or more) to process at which point, then you will get the payment request from them (in 2 or 3 days from now maybe). Then once you pay it will take them at least a day (or more) to recieve the payment and start processing the order. I have never had problems in CA with EMS in terms of hold up in customs but I have stopped using EMS with them because I find that SAL is cheaper and not much slower (in terms of shipping, not the processing.). I may be wrong about all this but it is my experience at least. And I have ordered my fair share of toys from them.

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Quick question...I was considering ordering a VF-1A Hikaru from HLJ with EMS shipping. If I put an order in today...that means that it would prob. go out in the morning (US time) how long should it take to get to Colorado? Do you think I would have it within 7 days? Anyone who orders through HLJ living in California please do let me know ASAP. THANKS!

:ph34r:

it will take 3 -5 days to get here in the west coast

sal is cheap and efficient and i recommend if youre buying cheap stuff. but if youre buying high valued toys....use EMS

Edited by Vegas
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Thanks you 2 for the answers. I want to order a second one since I already have 1 coming from Los. But y'all know me and how impatient I am and don't like waiting. So I would want it to arrive before the 13th. I don't think that 10 days from now is too much to ask for in order to receive it if I order now.

:ph34r:

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Thanks you 2 for the answers. I want to order a second one since I already have 1 coming from Los. But y'all know me and how impatient I am and don't like waiting. So I would want it to arrive before the 13th. I don't think that 10 days from now is too much to ask for in order to receive it if I order now.

:ph34r:

caving in i see :lol:

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Nope, I can definitely think of ways to make a much more articulated perfect transforming toy. If I was much cooler I'd draw up diagrams on how to do it. You can make it so the waist turns and functions (you'd probably need a larger scale), you could make it so the wings recess, and you could make it so the knees could do more than a 90 degree angle.

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Nope, I can definitely think of ways to make a much more articulated perfect transforming toy. If I was much cooler I'd draw up diagrams on how to do it. You can make it so the waist turns and functions (you'd probably need a larger scale), you could make it so the wings recess, and you could make it so the knees could do more than a 90 degree angle.

Yes, the way things currently are the wings do get in the way and yes, the waist did function on the version 1 but it was limiited in its range (althought not quite as limiited as the waist on the 1/48 which is limited both by the wings and the swing bar).

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Maybe at some angles the legs might get in the way, but you can easily open out the wings to let them through and then close it up again. I'm just basing this on how I think the revoltechs work. From what I can see in pictures, they have the waist joint at the same spot that I mentioned. But I think they made the wings a little smaller on them to let them move easier.

Edited by jackdaniels
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What I want to see is a backpack that can sit further forward in gerwalk mode. The Toynami 1/100's backpack hinge is long enough that you can push the backpack forward or rearwards, although it only locked in the forward position, making it too high in battroid mode. But they essentially solved the problem, they just needed to add a lock to the low position (or rearward position in gerwalk).

I also wish the arms in the VF-1 toys would sit higher in fighter mode. They are supposed to be recessed quite a bit in the line art. I think the toys can't achieve this because they always make the arms too fat.

Also, it seems the VF-1S head should be hidden more on the Yamato valks. I guess the hip bar gets in the way.

Edited by danth
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I also wish the arms in the VF-1 toys would sit higher in fighter mode. They are supposed to be recessed quite a bit in the line art. I think the toys can't achieve this because they always make the arms too fat.

And just how exactly are the arms on the new VF-1's supposed to sit any higher? They appear to sit as high up as possible as is. The only way I see for the arms to sit any higher would be for them to make the arms thinner than they already are and if they did that, it would frak up Battroid.

Also, if you look at the backpack section while in fighter mode, if the arms were to sit any higher, then the backpack would end up sitting to high and end up looking something like the Chara-works VF-1's. And while they're cool little models, we all know that the backpack section isn't supposed to sit up that high.

-Kyp

Edited by Kyp Durron
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And just how exactly are the arms on the new VF-1's supposed to sit any higher? They appear to sit as high up as possible as is. The only way I see for the arms to sit any higher would be for them to make the arms thinner than they already are and if they did that, it would frak up Battroid.

Also, if you look at the backpack section while in fighter mode, if the arms were to sit any higher, then the backpack would end up sitting to high and end up looking something like the Chara-works VF-1's. And while they're cool little models, we all know that the backpack section isn't supposed to sit up that high.

-Kyp

Well, nothing you say is wrong. The only real options are to shave some thickness off the arms or backpack, or let the backpack sit higher. If you did all three by a millimeter and a half, you could get the arms almost half a centimeter higher. I've seen people make transforming VF-1's out of the Hasegawa fighters, and they have pretty thin arms. I think they look fine, but they definitely don't look like the chunky arms in the line art. I'm okay with making the sacrifice for the fighter mode, but others won't be, I'm sure.

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Thanks SHin, was gonna edit my post after i checked hlj.com (states it does have the strike) but the forum died for a bit before i could :p

Or you could have went back 2 pages in this thread to where I stated the information that you were looking for.

Lazy lazy lazy. :rolleyes:

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Just curious, what's wrong with the shoulder hinge? Doesn't seem like a weak design to me.

It is the hinge that connects to the body(the one that swivels sideways from between the legs, to outside the legs when going to gerwalk mode. It is flimsy, I understand there is supposed to be clearance room for it to move, but there have already been breakages on the outer edges. When this happens, the entire hinge/arm will fall off. It is the piece that can move sideways in battroid mode. The tension of the shoulder joint definitely adds strain to that hinge, as you can feel it when you move the shoulders. That is the same reason why I asked if anyone figured out a way to remove the shoulder armor. I wanted to ease tension on the shoulder ball joint by loosening the screws, but those screws are blocked by the shoulder armor. The shoulders are very tight, which normally, is excellent for us, however the hinge that they are attached to is weak. This is the very same reason David suggested lifting the hinge above the securing ridge/bump on the underside of the back near the shoulder assembly, when going to battroid/gerwalk mode(basically the piece that keeps that hinge in place).

It seems that Yamato has rectified this with the DYRL Hikaru, Swoosh says the shouders on his feel just right(not as tight as Focker's). Also, as I said in another thread, even if you were sent a replacement part, none of us have figured out how to install it.

The shoulders on mine have loosened a bit over time due to handling, and there is less strain on the hinge when I pose the shoulders. I support the shoulder hinge each time I move the shoulders though. Maybe the samples you handled did not have the weak hinges, or tight shoulders. Tight parts are awesome, unless they have a hand in breaking the toy.

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