Jump to content

Yamato 1/60 VF-1A/D/J/S v2.0


Dante74

Recommended Posts

I am coming back after a several year hiatus, what is different between the V 2.0 and the original 1/60s ?

You must visit my website: www.anymoon.com and get caught up on Macross toys!

Shameless plug FTW! If I wasn't at work I'd post a link to exactly what you need.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Righto found some VERY old pics of my display, wow have come along way... this is before i got a ton of stuff, and before i took off the 1S arms.

Sorry for the quality!

2-6.jpg

1-6.jpg

can someone with the 1S v.2 handy show off how far the head an swivel? Better than the 1S?

Edited by ruskiiVFaussie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

technically there were no design changes because there wasn't anything wrong with the design. apparently the shoulder thing was a result of them being incorrectly assembled, but Yamato's slave drivers yelled at their Chinese sweat shop workers and now things are all better.

Changes as in materials used. We still don't know for sure what is causing the shoulder hinge breakages.

I will check tonight for a comparison between the 1/48 and 1/60 shoulders. I do have a VF-1A Low Vis... as that is one of the older releases will it still be valid to make the comparison?

Thanks man, I appreciate it! Basically, check to see if the shoulder hinges feel the same way, on my 1/48 VF-1S, the shoulder hinges feel much more sturdy, as they are made out of POM, and there is a slight difference in color compared to the rest of the toy. With my 1/60 1S, the hinge feels the same as other parts of the toy like the wings, and are the same shade of white. The shoulders on your 1A should look a little brighter than the ABS pieces such as the wings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have reserved mine too, but it is sad that the old 1/60 looks better than the version 2.

I know many people love the version 2, but I am still not impressed... It's good, but is it that good?

Yeah, I hate to say it, but I preferred the old "mosquito nose" on the original 1/60 VF-1D. The new one looks a little stubby. But it's not terrible, I'll still get one because I luvs me some two-seaters. It's been said that the stubby-ish nose is actually more correct (which is why the 1/48 was also "stubby nosed" compared to the 1/60). The problem is, the long canopy on the -1D accentuates the shortness of the nose on the new sculpt where on the old one it looked "just right" while the single-seaters looked long and spindly.

Vostok 7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well seeing how the possibility of them not changing the length of the nose is greater now, i'll only be getting one instead of 2.

I think it's still pretty cool looking, even with the short stubby nose, imagine it without the landing gear down and it will always look better.

Edited by ruskiiVFaussie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are they releasing the Hikaru VF-1S without Fast packs? I got the Roy 1s and the 1J with Fast packs and would like to get one without fast packs now too.

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are they releasing the Hikaru VF-1S without Fast packs? I got the Roy 1s and the 1J with Fast packs and would like to get one without fast packs now too.

Chris

Yes, they are, and it would be in the month after the SSP version is released.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just read the materials list, and POM is not listed. No wonder the shoulder hinges are breaking! Everyone wonders why a shoulder hinge breakage on the 1/48 was unheard of(least to me it is, it hasn't happened to me and I've never heard of it), and it is because the hinges on the 1/48 are made out of POM. I can definitely feel the difference. POM is just another plastic, it isn't metal so I figure the tolerances don't need much adjustment as they would be for diecast metal.

The only new 1/60 with POM is the VF-1J, and I suspect that the only POM parts are maybe the shoulder hinges, and TV hands. I checked the VF-1D specs, and POM is not listed. So if the VF-1D does not have the TV hands(hasn't been shown with them either as far as I know), then perhaps the only POM parts are the TV hands on the VF-1J.

The best solution? Make those shoulder hinges out of P O M Yamato!

Edited by Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everyone keeps on bashing the length of the nose/canopy on the V.2 VF-1D, how its not line accurate or that its not long enough like the anime and because of it they are not going to get it.....

Honestly, that excuse is utterly ridiculous, I mean its still a pretty damn good rendition of the plane. I mean think a little here folks...have you ever wonder why or thought why they decided to keep it shorter? I'll tell you why, its cause the damn plane can transform into battroid!!....which means it needs to have a blast shield to cover over the canopy! It's impossible to make a longer blast shield that can cover a longer canopy in battroid and then have it slide/hide away in plane mode. Thats the reason why the cockpit/canopy/nose of the plane is/seems smaller than the actual anime design....the design of the toy just won't allow it. If they tried to make it longer than the toy would no longer be perfect trasformation, they would have to make a extra seperate piece for the blast shield to snap on when in battroid.

So before you go bashing a practically good design, think a little about how the toy is made/designed first and whether or not its even possible.

Just so you can compare yourself, here are two links below, link one is a hasegawa model of the VF-1D (anime accurate) and the second is yamato's v.2 version, as you can see, if yamato made the canopy/nose super accurate like hasegawa's model, it would be impossible to hide a long enough blast shield and the toy would not be perfect transformation.

hasegawa: http://www.starshipmodeler.com/mecha/tm_vf1D.htm

yamato: http://www.yamato-toys.com/items/detail.php?gid=1242

Edited by choiboy77
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No prob man. Just trying to find a way to finally fix the problem. With that said, if my 1S shoulder hinges eventually give out, I will wait and see if Yamato ends up tooling new hinges out of POM, and then go for replacement hinges.

Why more plastic? Lets solve this with some tough light weight metal for those hinges. Metal hinges like the old takatokus so this whole hinge issue could be over and done with. You just can't rely on thin plastic to withstand pressure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Calm down... :mellow:

Personally, probably a longer nose would do. I understand if the canopy is shorter than that in the anime. But the shorter nose is because that Yamato decided "it would look better in battroid mode". While I know why they did it, I like the scale of the old 1D better.

BTW, I don't need an excuse to dislike a design.

Everyone keeps on bashing the length of the nose/canopy on the V.2 VF-1D, how its not line accurate or that its not long enough like the anime and because of it they are not going to get it.....

Honestly, that excuse is utterly ridiculous, I mean its still a pretty damn good rendition of the plane. I mean think a little here folks...have you ever wonder why or thought why they decided to keep it shorter? I'll tell you why, its cause the damn plane can transform into battroid!!....which means it needs to have a blast shield to cover over the canopy! It's impossible to make a longer blast shield that can cover a longer canopy in battroid and then have it slide/hide away in plane mode. Thats the reason why the cockpit/canopy/nose of the plane is/seems smaller than the actual anime design....the design of the toy just won't allow it. If they tried to make it longer than the toy would no longer be perfect trasformation, they would have to make a extra seperate piece for the blast shield to snap on when in battroid.

So before you go bashing a practically good design, think a little about how the toy is made/designed first and whether or not its even possible.

Just so you can compare yourself, here are two links below, link one is a hasegawa model of the VF-1D (anime accurate) and the second is yamato's v.2 version, as you can see, if yamato made the canopy/nose super accurate like hasegawa's model, it would be impossible to hide a long enough blast shield and the toy would not be perfect transformation.

hasegawa: http://www.starshipmodeler.com/mecha/tm_vf1D.htm

yamato: http://www.yamato-toys.com/items/detail.php?gid=1242

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why more plastic? Lets solve this with some tough light weight metal for those hinges. Metal hinges like the old takatokus so this whole hinge issue could be over and done with. You just can't rely on thin plastic to withstand pressure.

Well since POM is plastic with the durability of steel(so I've heard) and has proven well for Yamato in the past as well as having a closer tolerance I suppose, I think it is easier to tool up. It is just a simple change of plastic materials, I think if it were diecast, to adjust tolerances I think the diecast would take longer too tool up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find the notion that the Hikaru 1J might have POM shoulders but future 1/60v2s won't a bit silly. It sounds like Shin might be rallying for a change he sees has already happened? I'm confused. How do we determine if the sholders on the Hik 1J are POM?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why more plastic? Lets solve this with some tough light weight metal for those hinges. Metal hinges like the old takatokus so this whole hinge issue could be over and done with. You just can't rely on thin plastic to withstand pressure.

VFTF1, amateur know-it-all who tends to babble on about business and economics as if he runs a Bank, will now proceed to babble on about plastic and toy production, as if he has a clue about that either:

They shouldn't and won't use metal because then they'd need to redesign the entire fighter. Notie how, during the transformation, the entire shoulder hinge lifts up over a little bulbby "hill" - if it were metal, it would totally shard that hill. The material is made there so that you can lift and rest it back over that "bump" - metal wouldn't work for that.

Besides - my V.2 Roy with no hinge problems has... no hinge problems - and is doing fine as are the 1/48s - so... just getting the bugs out (as usual) Yamato is...

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find the notion that the Hikaru 1J might have POM shoulders but future 1/60v2s won't a bit silly. It sounds like Shin might be rallying for a change he sees has already happened? I'm confused. How do we determine if the sholders on the Hik 1J are POM?

If you read my posts, I have been trying to determine whether or not the shoulders have already been switched to POM. So far, I have received no such confirmation. When I went to the Yamato site, and compared the materials lists per each new 1/60 VF-1, the only VF-1 that has POM listed is for the VF-1J, the D and Hikaru 1S do not have POM listed(the only other ones with POM listed are the ones that are bundled with FAST packs). Since the 1J is the only armorless release that has POM listed, I think that the POM is only used for the TV styled hands. Since if the hinges really are switched to POM now I'd imagine that the 1D and Hikaru 1S would have POM listed, but they don't, also no TV styled hands have been seen on the new 1/60 1D yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

aren't the hip connectors on the v1 POM?

you could use those for comparison, if you still have a v1 available.

the plastic's texture is a good way to tell which plastic is POM.

POM is the stuff that kinda feels like Nylon.

hopefully, the Yamato guys still pay some attention to Graham.

well, 8 days to find out for sure if they changed something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you read my posts, I have been trying to determine whether or not the shoulders have already been switched to POM. So far, I have received no such confirmation. When I went to the Yamato site, and compared the materials lists per each new 1/60 VF-1, the only VF-1 that has POM listed is for the VF-1J, the D and Hikaru 1S do not have POM listed(the only other ones with POM listed are the ones that are bundled with FAST packs). Since the 1J is the only armorless release that has POM listed, I think that the POM is only used for the TV styled hands. Since if the hinges really are switched to POM now I'd imagine that the 1D and Hikaru 1S would have POM listed, but they don't, also no TV styled hands have been seen on the new 1/60 1D yet.

Why would TV hands be POM? I see your deduction but it doesn't add up from the other direction. Anyway, find some definitive way of testing and some member here will do it (provided it doesn't harm the toy). I'd be happy to help if I knew how I could. Unfortunately, I've felt lots of toys and have never been able to distinguish what type of plastic they're made of (except when they're rubbery like PVC).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

VFTF1, amateur know-it-all who tends to babble on about business and economics as if he runs a Bank, will now proceed to babble on about plastic and toy production, as if he has a clue about that either:

They shouldn't and won't use metal because then they'd need to redesign the entire fighter. Notie how, during the transformation, the entire shoulder hinge lifts up over a little bulbby "hill" - if it were metal, it would totally shard that hill. The material is made there so that you can lift and rest it back over that "bump" - metal wouldn't work for that.

Besides - my V.2 Roy with no hinge problems has... no hinge problems - and is doing fine as are the 1/48s - so... just getting the bugs out (as usual) Yamato is...

Pete

magnets.

make the shoulder hinge metal, an actual metal and not that crap "diecast" sh1t, and put a strong magnet at the shoulder and it should hold the arm in place, or better yet, put another magnet in the shoulder assembly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

magnets.

make the shoulder hinge metal, an actual metal and not that crap "diecast" sh1t, and put a strong magnet at the shoulder and it should hold the arm in place, or better yet, put another magnet in the shoulder assembly.

Depending on how thick the shoulder hinge is, the magnet might not be enough-- the hinge may just be too thin to be significantly affected by the magnet. Also, metal may have significant wear issues when rubbing against plastic. Finally, machining a shoulder hinge, as compared to diecasting, is significantly more expensive, and may not be worth it IMO. I've not yet seen a toy that used machined rather than diecast parts.

Edited by edwin3060
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depending on how thick the shoulder hinge is, the magnet might not be enough-- the hinge may just be too thin to be significantly affected by the magnet. Also, metal may have significant wear issues when rubbing against plastic. Finally, machining a shoulder hinge, as compared to diecasting, is significantly more expensive, and may not be worth it IMO. I've not yet seen a toy that used machined rather than diecast parts.

that part could be stamped and the ball joint could then be screwed into it, was what I was thinking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was out today in the nasty weather and I went over to a hobby town, and WOW couple of boxes of those Bandai Action stands.

So I thought to myself, one of them worked decently with my Skull 1, so why not get one for my Hikaru Vf-1A.

Sure enough I did, found one of the larger place holders worked well with the T Bar sliding down to the edge. And yep, it's still clung into that place holder and doing really well.

I can't fold the wings down all the way but why would you really want too on a Super Pack VF-1?

Not a bad cheap substitute on the Yamato bases if you don't wanna spend 50 bucks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why would TV hands be POM? I see your deduction but it doesn't add up from the other direction.

Because if made of ABS, the stress of the twisting movements to swivel the wrist, or pulling/pushing for removal/insertion of the pins into the socket may easily break off the pin/peg. If it was PVC, it might get stuck and just sheer off. If it is POM, you have neither of those problems.

Unfortunately, I've felt lots of toys and have never been able to distinguish what type of plastic they're made of (except when they're rubbery like PVC).

I can tell. On the 1/48 the shoulders are POM, they are much more rigid, they don't flex as much as ABS. If you try to flex them or bend them slightly they most likely will not. ABS is different, ABS will flex/bend, and is more likely to snap. POM is not. POM is typically brighter and much more rigid. For example feel the v2 1/60 Roy's shoulder hinges and compare them to how they feel to the 1/48 version.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
×
×
  • Create New...