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I've been doing my darndest for accuracy on my Yamato v2 1/60 VF-1s (a 1J, 1A, and 1S custom) but I'm really confused on markings for different types (A, J, S, plus the TV vs DYRL versions) and Fast Packs. There are markings on the TV ones that say "VF" on the ankles, that much I'm aware of. I can't seem to see these markings in the actual TV show though. Was this something that was implied or am I not looking closely enough?

Then, there's these "extra" square marks on the bottom of the intakes, one yellow, one red. I can see these on some of the Anasazi decals that people still show off on occasion (there was a nicely done 1J custom for sale recently that had these). Anyway, they look like warning stencils of some sort and they're located on the bottom of the intake and above (or is it on?) the knee in battroid mode. There seem to be stickers for these in the box but no indication on the instructions as to where they go.

And the fastpacks, the stickers included show very few that need to be applied (based on the manual) but there are lots of leftovers. And yet, the photos in the manual show some stickers applied that aren't even included on the sheet!

I've looked over every manual I can find and have even started checking the HobbySearch site for Hasegawa model builds for ideas but given the markings on the models are likely not all canon, I've got no idea!

What's an accuracy nut to do? :blink:

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Many of the markings on the original show are implied. Most are ret-conned from DYRL, 1/55 Takas, Hasegawa kits, etc. Personally, I'm a minimalist. Pilot name, assigned ship, ejection triangles. That's about it. (plus, highly-repainted/customized military planes tend NOT to have all the little markings everywhere repainted---only the factory tends to do that)

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See, I plan to do minimalist on my custom 1S but I'm torn on the 1J from the TV show, and my 1A from DYRL. I want them to look "realistic" but not overdone. In my opinion, the fully decked out examples I've seen look a bit over the top. Warning stencils covering the entire machine looks a bit excessive to me and at the very least, can look a bit too "busy" to my eyes. But if it's realistic, I'm willing to get over it.

So, to maybe summarise what I'm after: Is there a definitive guide out there that says, "Valks should have the following markings, despite what's shown on the shows/movie"? Or is this really just a do as much/little as you want sort of thing. I know, I know, it's not very original for me to be thinking like this but it's part of what makes me tick! I want it to be "right" whatever that means! :D

Third and final edit:

Speaking of assigned ship, I can't seem to find the correct tail markings for Hikaru's 1A from DYRL. Is it SDF-1 or ARMD-01. It launches from the ARMD in the movie but I think it's got SDF-1 on the markings I've seen. I've stuck the ARMD decals on but think I've gotten it wrong.

Edited by mickyg

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The markings on the DYRL skull squadron should read Prometheus. The team launches from the Prometheus and transfer to the ARMDs when the Macross folds into space.

You should use Hidetaka Tenjin's paintings as a guide for decals.

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Prometheus huh? Wow, I was way off! So I take it that's all implied then, as there's nothing in the movie to say they all came from the Prometheus.

Well, maybe when Hikaru and Misa find the shell of the Prometheus on earth but that was most definitely an implied thing if it was meant to convey that's where Hikaru's squadron was based.

So Hikaru's VF-1J is also based out of the Prometheus too, right?

Thanks for the tip Exo!

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If it's canon, then yes, it is. Man, there's still a whole lot of stuff I've yet to see/learn about Macross. Thanks for the link, that was very cool! And from a video game? Makes me wish I had a Sega Saturn!

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I believe I already know the answer to this, but as far as the 1/60 VF-1A Hikaru releases go, they're all bad, right? And by bad, I mean crappy shoulders. They never re-released a version with good shoulders?

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From this thread:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=33978

The anniversary DYRL VF-1S and most recent VF-1 valks are safe. For a comprehensive list of the older VF-1 releases you can take a look here.

http://anymoon.com/blog/2010/03/01/yamato-160-v2-1-low-vis-vf-1s-focker/

As stated earlier, Yamato's VF-11 and Bandai's VF-27 are damn near perfect so if you want a safe valk those are your best bets. For the most part, all of Yamato's Mac 7 valks are pretty good though the original Plus versions of the YF-19 and YF-21 might be floppy. Anything from Macross Zero is risky and Bandai's VF-25 are floppy. So in short.

Yamato

SV-51 Ivan - Avoid

SV-51 Nora - Slightly Risky

SV-51 CF - Slightly Risky

Early VF-0S - Avoid

Recent VF-0S - Slightly Risky

VF-0A - Fairly safe?

VF-1 - Recent releases should be safe

Konig Monster - Really floppy

VF-11 - Perfect

YF-19 - Slightly floppy

VF-19 - Safe

YF-21 - Should be safe

VF-22 - Safe

Bandai

VF-25 - Floppy

VF-27 - Perfect

Konig Monster - Safe (Perfect?)

If you can find the older ones at a discount or deal I would not worry to much about picking them up. I have 2 that have cracked shoulders and if you remove the shoulder armor and loosen the screws about half a turn you should be ok. Even if the shoulders are cracked just be careful with the shoulders and loosen up the upper arm screws a bit. I have yet to break off the cracked arms on mine but I am careful with them.

If your feeling really adventurous you can remove the pins that have the "knurling" on the ends and sand/file the "knurling" off to fix the problem.

That being said the latter models are a better choice if you want to avoid the issue. The VF-1D's are great (hell all the 2 seaters are). Safe bet is buy a latter release valk and buy the strike or super parts separately if you can find them. A Low Vis Roy Valk with strike parts would look pretty cool I think and the Max and Mira VF-1 Valks (blue and and red) should be fine too.

Safe bet on other valks.

VF-1 - Everything that came out after the Max TV color version is supposed to be good I think. So the Cannon Fodders, VF-1 Low Vis Roy, M&M, VF-1D's, VE-1 and VT-1. The anniversaries are supposed to be fine but they can be expensive.

VF-27 (Bandai) - nose paint can be a bit fragile but otherwise great.

VF-11 - great and the only problem I have with mine is getting the gun to stay in the hand sometimes. Also the canopy gimmick can be a real bitch if you have large hands. Comes in White or Grey both are good.

VF-1D - Great.

VE-1 Elint - Awesome toy.

VT-1 Ostrich - Just as great as the Elint.

Armor parts for VF-1 - Great and no problems.

VF-22 - Good and none of the versions I have seem to run into the floppiness problems that I got with my YF-21 in battroid mode.

Destroids - The Tomahawk and Defender are great!

Konig Monster (Bandai) - Seems to be fine. Too new to know if some problems will creep up over time.

Special mention:

The Macross Quarter (Bandai) - yeah it's a floppy mess in ship mode (hence all the stand pieces). In Battroid mode it is my favorite Macross piece! If you can find it for under or around $100 don't hesitate to buy it.

YF-19 - latter Double nut release (can't remember the other) are supposed to be pretty tight so they would be good to pick up.

VF-1 1/48 scale - if you can find one. They have some issues too but still a great toy. Try and see if you can find one cheap...it's worth it to have one as they have the removable nose cone gimmick, movable flaps on the wings, and a sling for the gun pod??? .

SV-51 - yeah they can have floppy wings. Only really matters if you are going to be swishing it upside down or on it's side allot. My floppy Nora just sits in it's stand (in various transformations depending on the mode that I am in) and I still love it. Paid less than $100 for it too so that's probably why.

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Have there ever been any Macross II mechas released, at any scale? I know it's the black sheep of the series, but I think some of the Marduk stuff is pretty cool.

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Was there ever a scale plastic model/toy of the Ghost X9?

Edited by hulagu

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Have there ever been any Macross II mechas released, at any scale? I know it's the black sheep of the series, but I think some of the Marduk stuff is pretty cool.

1/100 VF-2SS Nexx Custom w/SAP armor plamo, and some resin kits. Also Macross Fighter Collection 1/250 scale

Was there ever a scale plastic model/toy of the Ghost X9?

No.

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What is the type of stand the connector that comes with Yamato 1:60s is meant for?

(Specifically, the VF-22S).

Also, how possible is it to get replacement parts for Yamato valks? I think I might have misplaced the tiny light cover of the left wing of my new VF-22S. :(

(Whew, found the thing. But I'd like to know anyway just in case.)

Edited by hulagu

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The 1:48 VF-1 don't come with adapters unless they added them into the new packages. The launch arm stand: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10114747 come with the adapters for 1:48 VF-1.

The 1:60 VF-22 come with adapters originally designed for the large stand that came with 1st YF-21 package (in transparent plastic) and all Sv-51 (in black plastic), e.g. http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10065282a5/20/8 . The VF-22 and the new YF-21 package don't come with that stand. However the fighter/gerwalk mode adapter in the YF-21/VF-22 has the rectangular plug that fit the launch arm stands.

The rectangular plug also fix the small stands from Yamato: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10083566 . But they are hard to find and are generally considered too weak and small for anything bigger than the 1:60 VF-1.

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Hey Fellas. Coming back to Macross collection after a Hiatus. Sadly I have sold most of my previous Yamato 1/60 models. THe only ones left are the VF-1J Hikaru and VF-1S Roy all Yamato 1/60 scale. Im starting back again and just recently purchased the VF-22 Gamlin from amiami(50% off hehehe)

ANyway, my question is, can the flexi-stand now known as flightpose(http://flightpose.com/) hold the valks in battroid mode? I checked the pics and the rods have rounded ends. Logic would dictate that it cant hold the valks in battroid mode but I asked anyway to be sure. THanks :-)

Edit: Are there any other options for valk stands out there? I think I will be collecting only the 1/60 scales from Yamato and Bandai. Thanks again.

Edited by Getsuga Tenshou

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Hey Fellas. Coming back to Macross collection after a Hiatus. Sadly I have sold most of my previous Yamato 1/60 models. THe only ones left are the VF-1J Hikaru and VF-1S Roy all Yamato 1/60 scale. Im starting back again and just recently purchased the VF-22 Gamlin from amiami(50% off hehehe)

ANyway, my question is, can the flexi-stand now known as flightpose(http://flightpose.com/) hold the valks in battroid mode? I checked the pics and the rods have rounded ends. Logic would dictate that it cant hold the valks in battroid mode but I asked anyway to be sure. THanks :-)

Edit: Are there any other options for valk stands out there? I think I will be collecting only the 1/60 scales from Yamato and Bandai. Thanks again.

Aside from the Yamato valk stands you could use their Mighty Block stands, but those are only preferable with the V2 1/60 VF-1's.

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Thanks bro. The Yamato valk stands are quite expensive for what they are but I guess Ill buy those cos there's no other options.

On another note, does any of you ink the panel line of your valks? I noticed this guy inked the panel lines in his vf-1s

I must say it has a quite nice effect. Wonder what kind of pen he uses for panel lining?

Aside from the Yamato valk stands you could use their Mighty Block stands, but those are only preferable with the V2 1/60 VF-1's.

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On the Yamato SV-51, is there any place on the toy itself to store the little panels from the wings that fill in the attachment points for the boosters? They're VERY small so I don't want them bouncing around when not in use, and I'd rather keep them with the toy instead of in the box in a closet where I can't get to them.

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Thanks bro. The Yamato valk stands are quite expensive for what they are but I guess Ill buy those cos there's no other options.

On another note, does any of you ink the panel line of your valks? I noticed this guy inked the panel lines in his vf-1s

I must say it has a quite nice effect. Wonder what kind of pen he uses for panel lining?

vegeta8259 used a gundam lining marker to ink the lines.

very use ful tool if you collect any toys,and like panel lining.

or you could use thinned paint but that would be tedious for a yammie.

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Here's an old question.

Are there any replacement parts available for the VF-0A, like say a right shoulder? Are they available in the states through third party sellers? Can the Original Release of the VF-0A take the stand alone ghost fighter, or am I stuck with plain old fighter?

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You can attach the Ghost to the original VF-0A toy or any other VF-0 1/60 Yamato. I don't know of anyone selling replacement parts and I don't think Yamato is currently manufacturing them so you're probably out of luck at the moment.

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Erm, anyone mind digging out the pics or thread for the GN-U Dou YF-19? Have gotten a weathered version and would like some references to improve the visor. Can't find it using the search..

I saw it some months ago though..

Edited by ryoshoko

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You can attach the Ghost to the original VF-0A toy or any other VF-0 1/60 Yamato. I don't know of anyone selling replacement parts and I don't think Yamato is currently manufacturing them so you're probably out of luck at the moment.

Cool, thanks for the answers.

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I tried putting the fixed pose V2 1/60 VF-1's hands into the 1/48's lower arms, but they don't fit all the way. Was anyone able to connect the the V2 hands to their 1/48's?

The Fixed pose DYRL? style hands from my v2's plug onto the 1/48's arms just fine. Now they won't store inside the arm itself for transformation if that's what you're asking. Also the v2's gun holding hand has little pegs on the palm and fingers which make it too tight for the 1/48's gunpod.

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Hey guys, questions from a Macross toy newbie.

The Macross Frontier VF-25S Armored Messiah Valkyrie Ozuma 1/72 scale is going for cheap on Amazon. But it's a model kit and I don't have much experience with those.

I've heard there's no painting and glue, snap together style, which is fine with me. But is the assembly guide easy to follow? I have patience, I just don't read Japanese. :ph34r:

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Hey guys, questions from a Macross toy newbie.

The Macross Frontier VF-25S Armored Messiah Valkyrie Ozuma 1/72 scale is going for cheap on Amazon. But it's a model kit and I don't have much experience with those.

I've heard there's no painting and glue, snap together style, which is fine with me. But is the assembly guide easy to follow? I have patience, I just don't read Japanese. :ph34r:

You can view the instruction here:

http://www.dalong.net/review/etc/mf09/mf09_i.htm

Yes it is snap fit model but is probably the most complicated ones from Bandai, and there are tons of stickers/decals to apply too.

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Do you know what are the passwords that come with the GN-U's for?

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Does anyone have an English translation for the YF-19 Bird of Prey from the box/ manual?

All I seem to be able to find is the Double nuts translation

thanks!

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What kind of lighting (i.e. Incandescent, Flourescent, etc...) will cause UV damage, and what is safe to use as a light source near a display full of Yamato Valkyries?

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What kind of lighting (i.e. Incandescent, Flourescent, etc...) will cause UV damage, and what is safe to use as a light source near a display full of Yamato Valkyries?

industrial lighting like metal halide are the worst.

fluorescent and compact fluorescent produce some but unless you're specifically picking a "daylight" bulb or a bulb designed for aquarium or pet hobby use, the amount of UV from a modern bulb is relatively low.

Halogen and incandescent lights are actually pretty low in terms of UV output but they have heat issues as well as being energy hogs.

LED is the safest, as unless they're specifically designed to emit UV, they don't.

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