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the three Valkryie types I'm interested in are the YF-19, YF-0s, and the YF-25

I'm not really the best person to help you since I don't have any of those toys, but I'd recommend reading the reviews at anymoon.com:

Yamato 1/60 YF-19 - http://anymoon.com/blog/?p=1673

Yamato 1/60 Vf-0 - http://anymoon.com/blog/?p=1240

Dubble Nuts and Bird of Prey are non-canon alternative color schemes (blue and orange trims, respectively) for the YF-19, so the one you've seen should be an actual toy of the variable fighter, though not in the regular Macross Plus colors. Phoenix is the nickname of the VF-0, just like the VF-25 is called Messiah.

A renewal version line for the VF-25:s has recently been released by Bandai, but the release has been a total mess. I'm certain that someone is willing to fill in on the details, because I haven't really followed the situation. But unless they are restocked in the future, I guess that they will be very hard to find and be very expensive. The toys should be quite good, though.

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I'm not really the best person to help you since I don't have any of those toys, but I'd recommend reading the reviews at anymoon.com:

Yamato 1/60 YF-19 - http://anymoon.com/blog/?p=1673

Yamato 1/60 Vf-0 - http://anymoon.com/blog/?p=1240

Dubble Nuts and Bird of Prey are non-canon alternative color schemes (blue and orange trims, respectively) for the YF-19, so the one you've seen should be an actual toy of the variable fighter, though not in the regular Macross Plus colors. Phoenix is the nickname of the VF-0, just like the VF-25 is called Messiah.

A renewal version line for the VF-25:s has recently been released by Bandai, but the release has been a total mess. I'm certain that someone is willing to fill in on the details, because I haven't really followed the situation. But unless they are restocked in the future, I guess that they will be very hard to find and be very expensive. The toys should be quite good, though.

That's a fantastic website! Thanks so much for the information =)

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Thanks, glad you like it. I'm a little slow on posting new reviews right now as life got in the way just before i could get my yamato vf17 review up. Hoping to start getting new content up in a week or so.

I really appreciate all your reviews. I've gone over every word and picture before I make any purchases. You've saved me a couple hundred bucks easy. Thanks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

small shopping question: for anyone who's Ordered form Nippon-Yasan before, are you allowed to pay later on web limited items or do you have to pay up front?

Edited by anime52k8
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  • 3 weeks later...

Newbie question. I've only ever owned a VF-1D and VE-1 from the 1/60 v2 line by Yamato, but recently I got my first VF-1A, the Cavaliers scheme. Is there a way to transform the 1A without taking off the head? If I try to leave it on, I can't fit the laser through the hole...

:wacko:

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Newbie question. I've only ever owned a VF-1D and VE-1 from the 1/60 v2 line by Yamato, but recently I got my first VF-1A, the Cavaliers scheme. Is there a way to transform the 1A without taking off the head? If I try to leave it on, I can't fit the laser through the hole...

It is possible with a little manipulation, although it is a bit difficult when the neck joints are still stronger than the grip of the pin to which it is attached.

Before transformation from fighter to battroid mode you have to extend the head out of the nosecone in order to have the extra room you need to release the swinging bar and fit the laser through the hole.

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It is possible with a little manipulation, although it is a bit difficult when the neck joints are still stronger than the grip of the pin to which it is attached.

Before transformation from fighter to battroid mode you have to extend the head out of the nosecone in order to have the extra room you need to release the swinging bar and fit the laser through the hole.

Thanks... It doesn't sound very different to what I've been doing until now, but I'll keep trying.

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After disarming an anti-matter bomb and performing orthodontic surgery on a Great White Shark, I enjoyed a refreshing evening transforming the VF-25F renewal. Quite simple and relaxing really.

Question: In Battroid, the torso doesn't seem to "click" or lock in solid. There's about 3 degrees of loose "slouch" to it, with the belly-hip area as the vertex. (I hope I'm making sense). Is this normal?

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  • 3 weeks later...

So here's a question I'm not sure should go here but what the hell- i'm looking at the VF-25 toys, but the renewals are just too rich for my blood at the moment so I think I'm going to settle for a version 1, despite all of it's problems. I've heard some horror stories about the minty-white plastic on the alto type going yellow already, so I was leaning towards that blue-tinted movie version. Anybody here have any problems with the plastic on that one?

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So here's a question I'm not sure should go here but what the hell- i'm looking at the VF-25 toys, but the renewals are just too rich for my blood at the moment so I think I'm going to settle for a version 1, despite all of it's problems. I've heard some horror stories about the minty-white plastic on the alto type going yellow already, so I was leaning towards that blue-tinted movie version. Anybody here have any problems with the plastic on that one?

Best advice I can give is don't waste your money on a v1 DX-25. seriously, that mold is junk to the point where yellowing plastic is the least of it's problems. Save your money and wait for a renewal reissue/the aftermarket prices settle out.

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I've been handling my V1 Alto a fair bit lately (I did a super parts comparison of V1 to V2 recently on anymoon). I have the Alto that came with Tornado parts and it's not at all yellowed (although it's a later release). I can't speak to the blue "movie" version but if you HAVE to go V1 the Tornado Parts toy might not be a bad bet (but I'd echo the sentiment that the V2 is a huge improvement).

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Eh, the market on those looks like it's gonna get worse before it gets better, and the old one doesn't bug me too much. I'm just curious about experiences with the plastic anyone who owns one might have had.

Seriously, man, totally not worth it. Unless you don't mind disintegrating plastic...

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Thank you, that helps a lot! Maybe some of the rumors I had read about that were just overblown.

Honestly, the much better better legs and hips on the V2 really are tempting but with the V1 at literally a fraction of the renewal's price right now I can live with the old toy's problems. Since you mention it actually, Anymoon has been a lot of help looking at comparisons; I appreciate the time and effort you put into keeping that site up.

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Noob question: I've never had an SV-51, but really like their design. I've heard that some of Yamato's first releases were nightmares. Are there any releases of the SV-51's deemed "safe", or was there ever a reissue? Is it worth it to pick one up in this day and age?

Thanks!

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Noob question: I've never had an SV-51, but really like their design. I've heard that some of Yamato's first releases were nightmares. Are there any releases of the SV-51's deemed "safe", or was there ever a reissue? Is it worth it to pick one up in this day and age?

Thanks!

The worst that could happen to you is that you might get a first release Ivanov which some, not all of them, had a reversed wing hinge (very easy to repair) and a somewhat foggy canopy.

Other than that, I believe Renato's Nora SV-51 had a disintegrating thigh (only reported case).

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I just start collecting 1/60 VF-1. Now I'm looking for VF-1J Hikaru and VF-1S TV ver.

I found the older release are up to 30$ cheaper than 30th anniversary but I'm not sure.

1. Did 2008 ver. of those S and J have fragile shoulder problem ?

2. The canopy is plain clear or rainbow ?

Thanks

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About those hinges- I remember you saying something about being able to use pins salvaged from like, paper-clips or something in a pinch- how viable is that? Has it been tested with other types of pin, etc?

I've been thinking about buying these for my Hikaru 1A, but the original shoulders are just cracked, not so badly that I wanna risk ruining the stock parts for the aftermarket parts. What would you suggest?

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I thought I read you should keep the pins you have and insert them into the new hinges or use finishing nails (the kind you hammer the cardboard backing of furniture on with).

Can someone tell me what the different is between the two versions of white these come in and has anyone tried the black ones?

I intend on buying a pair just to have in case my Valk breaks and Shapeways discontinues them one dreadful day.

Edited by Astralith
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