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azrael

Official Bandai 1/60 Scale DX Toy Thread Ver.5

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that's a fantastic display idea. what stand did you use for the inverted valk? looks like v-shaped acrylic. a brochure standee?

Yup, you spotted it right; it's a V-shape name placard holder. I usually have it propping up my Zoids Whale King 'playset' but borrowed it for Alto's shenanigans. :-)

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Just a few quick pics of my Vf-25G...sorry it's rather boring looking, didn't have a lot of time to take better ones.

IM000936.jpg

IM000933.jpg

IM000935.jpg

IM000941.jpg

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Here's more pix of my SMS Skull Squadron:

And here's a guest! Wondering if Bandai will do a nicer VF100s edition of the Konig Monster... (yes, please!)

Very nice!

Btw you could do your own custom SMS VB-6 like Max did here

Edited by ntsan

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Awesome pics fellas. I cant't wait to read your reviews Jenius. You always do such a great work.

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So. It's safe to push the tail fins away from the booster?

I don't wanna force it if they weren't meant to fold in that direction.

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So. It's safe to push the tail fins away from the booster?

I don't wanna force it if they weren't meant to fold in that direction.

NO! It's not the tail fins that need to be adjusted, it's the boosters on the wings. If it looks like your tail fins are behind the boosters than your boosters aren't attached properly to the spike.

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that's a fantastic display idea. what stand did you use for the inverted valk? looks like v-shaped acrylic. a brochure standee?

my alto superparts arrived yesterday, so i finally took the VF-25F out of the box. was too excited to slap on the superparts, so i didn't bother learning how to transform the valk. now i'm not sure if i i've missed a step as a couple of things seem to be off:

1. couldn't squeeze-in the crotch armor in fighter mode. is this supposed to be possible?

2. can't get the wingroot to level with the fuselage. i think it's because of the calf armor which doesn't seem to completely go through the spaces in the rear part of the fuselage. are the left and right calf armors interchangeable?

my hip armors seem to attach ok. not solidly, mind you, but not as loose as others have described. thing is, i think the hip armors conceal the nice detail of the intakes so i'm contemplating keeping them off.

though i haven't really played with it yet, this valk seems very solid, and looks damn good, with or without super parts.

1) I don't think the nut-plate is supposed to be attached for Fighter and Gerwalk. It sucks, but like the hip-guns it's just another part-swap solution that Bandai opted for.

2) I don't know if the calf armor can be swapped over (never tried to personally), but it is a bit of a tight fit. Even without the armor attachments the wings never sit completely flush and level.

I've got to say that I am disappointed with the '25. I still really like it, it's just that Bandai have done the same thing as they always do with Valkyries - a lot of little details that could have easily been taken care of were overlooked, like the calf armor interfering with the knee movement.

Has anyone else had problems with a loose socket on the right trigger hand? My 25S won't hold it's gunpod straight. I don't want to put glue on the ball because the other hands fit fine, and I'm hesitant to put anything in the socket of the hand because I'm not 100% sure if the softer plastic would react to different substances.

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NO! It's not the tail fins that need to be adjusted, it's the boosters on the wings. If it looks like your tail fins are behind the boosters than your boosters aren't attached properly to the spike.

i've got the spike properly latched onto the boosters but there's still a wee bit of the tail fins that are in the cone of the thrusters. i found that i have to "toe-in" the boosters towards the front to get the tail fins clear. not a much of wiggle room though. toe-in too much and the rear tab of the boosters disengages.

but yeah, don't force the tail fins.

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Wizartar has reviewed the Super VF-25G.

Part 1 -

Part 2 -

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1) I don't think the nut-plate is supposed to be attached for Fighter and Gerwalk. It sucks, but like the hip-guns it's just another part-swap solution that Bandai opted for.

A few people have managed to keep the crotch armour on in fighter mode. Maybe they could chime in-- I'll only be getting my Super parts tomorrow and I'll try it out as well.

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I still haven't got the groin armor on in fighter mode and I'm not going to risk forcing it either, as I don't want to scratch any paint or risk snapping either of the armor tabs.

Graham

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i must be doing something wrong:

booster not attaching symmetrically and hip armor does not fully cover intake:

post-6173-1239606864_thumb.jpg

can't level the wingroot pieces:

post-6173-1239606883_thumb.jpgpost-6173-1239606892_thumb.jpg

help? :unsure:

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The crotch armor can stay on during transformation. I found that every time I left it on though I had a lot harder time getting things settled in fighter mode. Since it's completely concealed, I recommend just removing it in all non battroid modes.

EDIT - since a number of people are having a hard time with it, I'm guessing it's one of those things where the clearances are so tight it might just be next to impossible to get it to work on some toys. Certainly if you're having problems keeping everything together in fighter mode, step one is to remove the crotch armor.

Edited by jenius

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I know the gloss finish is making it easier for the tampo printing to flake off... but damn does it look good.

I wouldn't say the tampo printing is flaking off per say (makes it sounds like it's falling off by itself), but IMO the gloss finish plastic does make it easier for the tampo printing and also painted stripes to wear off with repeated handling.

My advice to everybody, when you hold your toy, try as best as possible to avoid touching any of the parts that are painted or have tampo printing, i.e just touch the bare plastic.

Graham

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i must be doing something wrong:

booster not attaching symmetrically and hip armor does not fully cover intake:

post-6173-1239606864_thumb.jpg

can't level the wingroot pieces:

post-6173-1239606883_thumb.jpgpost-6173-1239606892_thumb.jpg

help? :unsure:

The hip armor will not fully cover the intake. It just clips on and looks like that so there's really nothing you can do about that.

As for the wingroot pieces, and the gap between the intakes, it's hard to get everything settled properly when you have the FAST packs on.

You can try bending the knees a tiny bit by a degree or less which seems to help me minimize the gap between the intake sections and lets me push in the pegs attaching the wingroot to the leg armor as far as it will go. You can also make sure to get the hip guns pushed a little higher up and the 5 dot shoulder block level with the backplate so that the gap there is not so huge. There will always be a gap, due to the way it's molded and designed, but it shouldn't be as big as your third pic.

I'm not sure if there's anything that can be done about the boosters. My RVF (and probably my 25G also) has that same amount of clearance between the booster nozzle and the vertical stabs. The boosters are locked in properly on mine but the clearance on the right is smaller than the clearance on the left just like your pic.

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I wouldn't say the tampo printing is flaking off per say (makes it sounds like it's falling off by itself), but IMO the gloss finish plastic does make it easier for the tampo printing and also painted stripes to wear off with repeated handling.

My advice to everybody, when you hold your toy, try as best as possible to avoid touching any of the parts that are painted or have tampo printing, i.e just touch the bare plastic.

Graham

Also, if anyone is doing paint touchups or panel lining and messes up, avoid using chemicals or rubbing alcohol to wipe off the screw up. The paint on the DX comes off as easily or easier than whatever paint or ink you are using. Just try to do your best with water if possible.

I was doing a touchup for a paint screw up on my 25G and some extra paint splattered. I dabbed a paper towel with some rubbing alcohol and wiped it off, but to my horror, a stray piece of wet paper towel had barely touched another area and the paint came clean off like I was wiping dry marker off a whiteboard with a wet rag. You couldn't even see any residual paint left to indicate there was something there before. I don't know what kind of paint they use but I've never had existing paint come off that easily on a toy before nor any paint I've ever used, especially after it's dried. It definitely had to be an extremely thin layer of paint at the very least for it to come off like that with no trace left.

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Well i've been toying around with my VF-25G and so far it is great. All the parts fit fine as expected.

I have noticed that the intake armour is a bit loose and indeed the intake armour totally prevents hip articulation. So therefore I've just had to resort to putting my 25G on the stand in battroid with straight legs and a less dynamic pose.

There is one additional issue i have noticed. When posed in battroid with the sniper rifle in one hand and the left hand supporting it, has anyone noticed that the arms start to sag a bit and before long the sniper rifle is aiming down instead of straight? Any ideas on how to fix that?

Thanks

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Wow I'm one of the few who can get the crotch armor piece to stay in fighter mode? Hah, I thought it was simple, I hadn't had any problems with that particular piece at all.

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Finally got my Michel & Luka last weekend after much probing & consideration (Alto also on preorder fm HLJ). Love the fighter mode very much but really put off by the upward pointed wings. Any ways to straighten them down? Otherwise it looks even greater!

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Wow I'm one of the few who can get the crotch armor piece to stay in fighter mode? Hah, I thought it was simple, I hadn't had any problems with that particular piece at all.

I don't have a problem with them either - I just transform the toy normally. I didn't have to push the crotch section in with any more force than I would without the armor.

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I've tinkered with all my DXs a bit now. Unfortunately my Michel has the loosest crotch connector of the group. It poses well enough but definitely doesn't handle nearly as well as my other three DX toys. Getting him to stick together at the hip AND use the waist swivel takes a bit of dedication.

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I don't have a problem with them either - I just transform the toy normally. I didn't have to push the crotch section in with any more force than I would without the armor.

i'm thinking it might have something to do with how the head is mounted in fighter mode. those parts are in the cavity where the crotch piece settles in. have you noticed if the head in fighter mode sits a little higher with the crotch armor on?

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My Alto w/ super parts has been transforming perfectly with all armor parts attached in fighter mode. It is annoying having the intake armor pop off so frequently, but other than those, the armor is tight on mine, and transformation is a breeze. It looks great, much better with it than without.

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Are there pictures yet of the painted armored Ozma ?

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i'm thinking it might have something to do with how the head is mounted in fighter mode. those parts are in the cavity where the crotch piece settles in. have you noticed if the head in fighter mode sits a little higher with the crotch armor on?

The head sits normally in fighter mode. I always made sure that the head and neck pieces are fully pushed into their "rails" - it's the one part of the transformation that irks me a little when transforming to battroid as my fingers have a hard time pulling the head "out" from the rails.

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*sighs* :unsure: with any luck I'll be getting an Alto at some given point, but I'll hold up until the armored ozma comes out. I am though growing more attached to my micheal custom...just wish the armor packs were a bit better.

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Other than the extra holes in the backplate, there isn't supposed to be any improvements (like legs being higher in fighter or wings being more level) on the Alto re-release, right?

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Other than the extra holes in the backplate, there isn't supposed to be any improvements (like legs being higher in fighter or wings being more level) on the Alto re-release, right?

Not that we know of. One can always hope though..maybe with a version 2.0... Yamato did take a couple of tries before they got the VF-0 right afterall.

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Is there anyway to tighten up the shoulder joint? I'm trying to find the screw concealing the joint, but no luck. Any advice?

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Unfortunately the screw is covered and I can't think of any way to get the cap off without mangling it. I'd like to tighten one of my shoulders and loosen the other.

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Sadly I think my VF-25G will always need the other arm holding up any of the guns.

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This is why I wish bandai just went with ratcheting joints at the shoulders.

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Not that we know of. One can always hope though..maybe with a version 2.0... Yamato did take a couple of tries before they got the VF-0 right afterall.

Okay. Just making sure there wasn't anything else in this release. I want to get an Alto custom eventually when they finally fix the wings and hopefully the legs as well. I plan on displaying the full armored Ozma version in battroid so that stuff won't really bother me, but it would be nice to eventually have a VF-25 that I can display in fighter mode without needing to use super packs or armor to hide the deficiencies of the fighter mode or coloring.

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Just got my shipping notice for the 1/60 Alto from HLJ. Looks like they got their restock in.

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Wizatars review is up for the VF-25 Micheal and the fast packs.

VF-25M

Fastpacks from VF-25M

Edited by logos

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