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Macross maintenance.


ChaoticYeti

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2 hours ago, Zeliard said:

Hi guys. I obtain a unit of Mirage VF-31C used, still in excellent condition. But I notice the tail fins are not at the usual upright position, but rather found underneath tucked away at the wrist. 

Is this normal? Or a defect? I've checked reviews, and unboxing. Certainly I don't see this. 16888636246771976304207906219999.jpg.f01a4c44d8b7555b0d47854e35992e96.jpg16888636423548186435650321132552.jpg.e17ba30cb2076a091a559cda5061e132.jpg16888636565896225385315089114025.jpg.13cdae4914dcaab5d62da66e123c4e44.jpg16888636960622471444191140563809.jpg.87569d855ff0d2ee535d98657b00049a.jpg

How is this possible? Maybe they're easy to pop off?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey all,

My Yamato VF-1J finally had the shoulder failure issue. I know the part is on Shapeways, however shipping to my country is about 3-4 times the price of the actual part. Does anyone have an STL that I can print myself? Thanks for any assistance. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello, this is the first time I've written here. I recently got the 31ax armor but one of the missile turrets that are attached to the wing rockets has lost the ratchet that keeps it upright. I don't know if something has broken or is It has come loose when I move the rocket I hear loose pieces inside and so it is impossible for me to put the missile turret in its position since it does not stay I don't know if there will be a solution or some way to open it and reset the piece or stiffen the joint somehow shape. A greeting and thanks in advance!

image.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

I need some assistance. I am trying to take off a small waterslide decal that i put on my Arcadia VF-0D(regular version). The decal has sticked very well to the plastic and i am not able to rub it off with my fingernails, as i usually do. I was thinking about using a cotton swag with a couple of drops of alcohol on it but i am afraid i might ruin the plastic. What do you guys think? What do you usually do in cases like this? I really want to avoid the risk of scratching the surface of the VF since that it's a pretty expensive one and am very picky about this kind of things. Thank you in advance!

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On 9/5/2023 at 6:58 AM, Robin-11 said:

I need some assistance. I am trying to take off a small waterslide decal that i put on my Arcadia VF-0D(regular version). The decal has sticked very well to the plastic and i am not able to rub it off with my fingernails, as i usually do. I was thinking about using a cotton swag with a couple of drops of alcohol on it but i am afraid i might ruin the plastic. What do you guys think? What do you usually do in cases like this? I really want to avoid the risk of scratching the surface of the VF since that it's a pretty expensive one and am very picky about this kind of things. Thank you in advance!

Were you able to take it off after all? Did you seal the decal with a topcoat. If not, take a piece of scotch tape and tack it off which usually works for me. If all fails you can always sand it off.:unknw: 

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10 minutes ago, Angesdad said:

Were you able to take it off after all? Did you seal the decal with a topcoat. If not, take a piece of scotch tape and tack it off which usually works for me. If all fails you can always sand it off.:unknw: 

Thank you for your advice. Yes, i finally found the courage to go along with the operation. I just used a cotton swab dipped in some water and a lot of patience. I was able indeed to peel it off without causing any damage to the VF. Luckily i did not seal it with top coat but just used some drops of mark softer/setter. I have to say some third party decals stick better than the official ones. Thank you again!

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1 hour ago, Robin-11 said:

Thank you for your advice. Yes, i finally found the courage to go along with the operation. I just used a cotton swab dipped in some water and a lot of patience. I was able indeed to peel it off without causing any damage to the VF. Luckily i did not seal it with top coat but just used some drops of mark softer/setter. I have to say some third party decals stick better than the official ones. Thank you again!

Great! At least that proves mark softer/setter isn't a waste of money and is doing what it's supposed to do, to resist peeling.:good:

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Good day folks.  Forgive me if this has been asked, I couldn't find it.

 

My reissue VF-25f has a very loose shoulder joint.  Tightening the screw on its own didn't do anything, so I think I'll need to take apart the shoulder (pic included).  How would I do this?  It looks like it has at least one pin, so I am afraid of aplying force before I know what I'm doing.

 

Thank you.

Screenshot_20230918_075318_Google.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/18/2023 at 5:12 AM, Tannerbot2k said:

Good day folks.  Forgive me if this has been asked, I couldn't find it.

 

My reissue VF-25f has a very loose shoulder joint.  Tightening the screw on its own didn't do anything, so I think I'll need to take apart the shoulder (pic included).  How would I do this?  It looks like it has at least one pin, so I am afraid of aplying force before I know what I'm doing.

 

Thank you.

Screenshot_20230918_075318_Google.jpg

Which joint you're pertaining to? The one attached to the arm or the one to the chest? In case you missed it, I explained how I fixed mine on Page 1.

Hope that helps. :good: 

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On 9/29/2023 at 12:23 PM, no3Ljm said:

Which joint you're pertaining to? The one attached to the arm or the one to the chest? In case you missed it, I explained how I fixed mine on Page 1.

Hope that helps. :good: 

The ball joint inside that housing.  I was trying to disassemble it, but it was very stubborn.  I needed disassembly instructions.  I do have some kiki joint repair on the way, but if I can take apart the joint first, that would be ideal.

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  • 2 weeks later...

VF-25: Since the shoulder armor is so hard to remove, I just left the joint assembled, and poured nail polish inside as best I could. Several times, with the arm in different positions so it'd flow to different areas.  Though if I were to do it again, I'd use Future.  (nail polish is "hot" enough that it reacts with the plastic part of the ball-joint socket, and it dissolved a small amount of material at the edge). 

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10 hours ago, David Hingtgen said:

VF-25: Since the shoulder armor is so hard to remove, I just left the joint assembled, and poured nail polish inside as best I could. Several times, with the arm in different positions so it'd flow to different areas.  Though if I were to do it again, I'd use Future.  (nail polish is "hot" enough that it reacts with the plastic part of the ball-joint socket, and it dissolved a small amount of material at the edge). 

I'm using kiki joint fixative.  I'll see how it goes.

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Any advice on how to crack open a VF-1 tail section when the seams between the "back shell" and the "tail plate" are glued down really solidly? I've done it many times, and the advice I have given people is that I soak the joints in Goo Gone - even though I'm not sure if that actually accomplishes anything - and then carefully, slowly, attack it with a sharp hobby knife. The thing is, I haven't done it in a couple of years, and I have a few that I'd like to get apart... and I'm very nervous! I'm not great with the hobby knife, so sometimes I make unpleasant gouges (that probably only I notice), and sometimes flakes of plastic from the tail plate break come off, stiuk to the back shell, when it finally breaks apart.

I have found some that with age and wear have naturally popped apart beautifully... I've also found some that seem to have escaped being glued in the first place at the factory. But for the rest of the cases, I just don't know how to approach it with confidence, and would be thrilled if one of you had a "OMG THIS IS SO EASY ONCE YOU KNOW THE TRICK!" technique to offer.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hello, I'm relatively new to collecting and just bought my first DX valkyries this year (a pair of 25s and a pair of 31s).  Both of the VF-31s (they are a 31C and a 31J) have an issue with the right hand wing where the folding end part does not snap into the "fully up" position and leaves a gap.  I read through this thread and much of the 31 DX thread and saw a few mentions of this issue, but no definitive solutions.  It's clearly interference from something "bottoming out" and not letting the wing snap home, but I've not been able to localize it so far (and not seen any sign of extra glue or sprue burs that are causing the problem).  I'm not averse to shaving and sanding, but want to make sure I go after the root cause and am not just trial-and-erroring it.  Since it's come up a few times here (and on both my items), it seems like there might be a common cause and it was worth asking about before I got out the knives and files.  Any input anyone has would be appreciated.

 

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Nor sure if this is the right forum to post this in so i hope this ok. I've noticed a few sale listings for the VF-4G saying there may be cracks on the main item. They don't go into any detail. So i was wondering if there are know issues of the the VF-4G cracking in common areas?

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