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Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV


Urashiman

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UPDATE: Some more antennae work-

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At this point, there isn't really too much more left to do. I'm considering either painting in or trying to sculpt tiny Valkyries out of sprue for Daedalus, and I'm also thinking about a stand or something to display this on that could handle both cruiser and storm attacker modes. That said, all the major work is pretty much done.

Here's where we started with this one:101_1168.thumb.JPG.2d90f2672051679c9ddc2f5c1d9be0bf.JPG

And here's where the project currently stands :

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Stay tuned folks...

 

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I have been planning some base construction for a while.

I printed this Nadia Blue Water design on a 2mm acrylic sheet at my local office supply store. Good deal!

It will be backlit in a gold frame for the base. 

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Edited by arbit
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I started this kit about a year ago, and royally screwed up the top coat of future on the wings :( i laid it on too thick and it pooled. Thinking it was ruined i threw it in the box and I almost threw it out a few times. Decided to look into ways to remove future without ruining the paint job and it turns out that windex will do that. Just let it soak in windex for 30 mins and the future washes right off ^_^ That revived this build, my plan was to have it done by the time the DX came out but now I can hopefully have it done before the DX 31C comes out :lol:

7B80222E-F1F1-4957-B2EF-E528A6AF7D56.jpg

2940A38E-A6E9-4858-BBF2-D307232D7BEB.jpg

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7 hours ago, anubis20 said:

I started this kit about a year ago, and royally screwed up the top coat of future on the wings :( i laid it on too thick and it pooled. Thinking it was ruined i threw it in the box and I almost threw it out a few times. Decided to look into ways to remove future without ruining the paint job and it turns out that windex will do that. Just let it soak in windex for 30 mins and the future washes right off ^_^ That revived this build, my plan was to have it done by the time the DX came out but now I can hopefully have it done before the DX 31C comes out :lol:

7B80222E-F1F1-4957-B2EF-E528A6AF7D56.jpg

2940A38E-A6E9-4858-BBF2-D307232D7BEB.jpg

Looking really sharp there! Nice save! :D

 

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UPDATE: okay, I got a bit ambitious...

 

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I saw that the 1/4000 Hasegawa TV version had tiny planes on it, and thought "well, let's see how that would look." So, I cut some simple valks out of styrene and painted them up a bit and glued them into place. I also tried to use paint to represent tow vehicles for the planes and people on the ship. The effectiveness of it may not be what I was hoping for, but a bare flight deck bothered me. On that note, it also bothered me that the ship looked too "clean" of detail, so I did something a bit daring and found the old Takatoku sticker sheets online and the placement instructions and replicated in large part the details from that. I plan on doing a few washes and drybrushing to kill down the garishness, then some touch-up and clean up on some of the work that smeared.

Well, at least it ain't boring anymore,,,

Stay tuned folks...

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9 hours ago, anubis20 said:

I started this kit about a year ago, and royally screwed up the top coat of future on the wings :( i laid it on too thick and it pooled. Thinking it was ruined i threw it in the box and I almost threw it out a few times. Decided to look into ways to remove future without ruining the paint job and it turns out that windex will do that. Just let it soak in windex for 30 mins and the future washes right off ^_^ That revived this build, my plan was to have it done by the time the DX came out but now I can hopefully have it done before the DX 31C comes out :lol:

7B80222E-F1F1-4957-B2EF-E528A6AF7D56.jpg

 

As previously stated by many, nice save! Just goes to show that old builds shouldn't be thrown out, they should just await their appointed time.

 

1 hour ago, pengbuzz said:

UPDATE: okay, I got a bit ambitious...

 

101_1270.thumb.JPG.b9a6590cee7dc06762f54789b610dc2f.JPG
I saw that the 1/4000 Hasegawa TV version had tiny planes on it, and thought "well, let's see how that would look." So, I cut some simple valks out of styrene and painted them up a bit and glued them into place. I also tried to use paint to represent tow vehicles for the planes and people on the ship. The effectiveness of it may not be what I was hoping for, but a bare flight deck bothered me. On that note, it also bothered me that the ship looked too "clean" of detail, so I did something a bit daring and found the old Takatoku sticker sheets online and the placement instructions and replicated in large part the details from that. I plan on doing a few washes and drybrushing to kill down the garishness, then some touch-up and clean up on some of the work that smeared.

Well, at least it ain't boring anymore,,,

Stay tuned folks...

The Macross is looking good, Peng. Those tiny details are hard to do at this scale, so it's great you're doing it.

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On 6/21/2017 at 0:41 AM, Nyankodevice said:

looks good all of ya!

currently on my workbench!:

What are those two? YF19? and what?

On 6/20/2017 at 0:00 AM, electric indigo said:

Slowly getting to the next stage in Mortar Headd construction

Which mortar head kit is that?

Edited by arbit
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The thruster block on the nose bothers me a bit, but your CAD modeling is awesome.

3 hours ago, arbit said:

Which mortar head kit is that?

It's the Volks 1/100 LED Mirage from their fixed-pose Super Spirit Series. The first FSS kit I bought, way back in 1994.

 

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Meantime folks, I'm taking a break from the SDF-1 to build a first: a Zentraedi battleship. In this case, it's the Thurvel-Salan Class Battleship:

thurvel-salan.gif.1ea0e67f796a9217b920e9365cd5b8ab.gif

 

There's a specific reason I'm doing this one, and for folks who know the episodes well, you'll get why I'm doing this one. :D Here is the ship so far:

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Needs some refinement still and some detailing... but not bad for 2 hours work.

Stay tuned...

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Hey guys, I have a question for you Decal masters, I'm just about finished with restoring these WWII German helmets for a customer. Normally the decals I use easily apply with little to no issue. 

However my customer sent me some very specific (very pricey) decals and they will not stick or stay on. I've had terrible luck using Clear-coat over the years, some times it melts the decals. 

Any ideas or tips for sealing deals to steel? I'd definitely appreciate it. 

IMG_4335.JPG

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12 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

Meantime folks, I'm taking a break from the SDF-1 to build a first: a Zentraedi battleship. In this case, it's the Thurvel-Salan Class Battleship:

thurvel-salan.gif.1ea0e67f796a9217b920e9365cd5b8ab.gif

 

There's a specific reason I'm doing this one, and for folks who know the episodes well, you'll get why I'm doing this one. :D Here is the ship so far:

101_1295.thumb.JPG.e0faff307015ec6ec152cdfee0f7e8f3.JPG

Needs some refinement still and some detailing... but not bad for 2 hours work.

Stay tuned...

Still looks better than most of the previous kits that have been Officially released. just paint it pea green and your done.

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7 hours ago, Thom said:

Nice work Pengbuzz! Are we about to see a Daedalus Attack?!

To answer your question Thom: :D

Right now, I deliberately over-coated my previous work with green to kill down the detail; the marker should "bleed through" slightly for a "pre-shading" effect, while I do another layer of panels over it.

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54 minutes ago, arbit said:

I've got some figure painting to do. My first time. I think I will airbrush and hand brush details.

Can anyone recommend good How-To videos to deal with these?

 

Try this series by "Those Gundam Guys":

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Anime+Resin+Figure+Building+those+gundam+guys

Edited by pengbuzz
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On 6/22/2017 at 0:35 AM, 505thAirborne said:

Hey guys, I have a question for you Decal masters, I'm just about finished with restoring these WWII German helmets for a customer. Normally the decals I use easily apply with little to no issue. 

However my customer sent me some very specific (very pricey) decals and they will not stick or stay on. I've had terrible luck using Clear-coat over the years, some times it melts the decals. 

Any ideas or tips for sealing deals to steel? I'd definitely appreciate it. 

IMG_4335.JPG

1.) Lay down Future coat.  Allow it to cure.  If they are self-sticking decals (Adhesive-backed), proceed to step 5.)

2.) Apply decal.  If they are the type of decals used on models (water-slide), add just a drop of Future where the decal will go.  This will "suck" the decal down into the Future-coated rough steel.

3.) Assuming they are water slide, immediately after placing the decal wick away the excess Future and water with the torn edge of a paper towel.  Lint free is best.  Again, use the torn-edge of the paper towel for the best wicking. 

4.) Immediately after wicking away the excess, press any large bubbles out.  You can leave tiny ones alone as they Future-on-Future action will take care of them.

5.) Seal with Future.  If you need a matte coat, seal with airbrushed acrylic matte coat.  Don't use that Dullcote garbage as it will absolutely yellow over time, sunlight or not.

 

I hope this helps.

Kenny

 

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9 minutes ago, Lt. Z0mBe said:

1.) Lay down Future coat.  Allow it to cure.  If they are self-sticking decals (Adhesive-backed), proceed to step 5.)

2.) Apply decal.  If they are the type of decals used on models (water-slide), add just a drop of Future where the decal will go.  This will "suck" the decal down into the Future-coated rough steel.

3.) Assuming they are water slide, immediately after placing the decal wick away the excess Future and water with the torn edge of a paper towel.  Lint free is best.  Again, use the torn-edge of the paper towel for the best wicking. 

4.) Immediately after wicking away the excess, press any large bubbles out.  You can leave tiny ones alone as they Future-on-Future action will take care of them.

5.) Seal with Future.  If you need a matte coat, seal with airbrushed acrylic matte coat.  Don't use that Dullcote garbage as it will absolutely yellow over time, sunlight or not.

 

I hope this helps.

Kenny

 

Hi Kenny, a million thank you's!! And yes these are the water slide type decals. I'm going to follow your instructions very carefully! 

I've always wondered how well Future works for decals, I'm going to find out very shortly! B))

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3 hours ago, Lt. Z0mBe said:

1.) Lay down Future coat.  Allow it to cure.  If they are self-sticking decals (Adhesive-backed), proceed to step 5.)

2.) Apply decal.  If they are the type of decals used on models (water-slide), add just a drop of Future where the decal will go.  This will "suck" the decal down into the Future-coated rough steel.

3.) Assuming they are water slide, immediately after placing the decal wick away the excess Future and water with the torn edge of a paper towel.  Lint free is best.  Again, use the torn-edge of the paper towel for the best wicking. 

4.) Immediately after wicking away the excess, press any large bubbles out.  You can leave tiny ones alone as they Future-on-Future action will take care of them.

5.) Seal with Future.  If you need a matte coat, seal with airbrushed acrylic matte coat.  Don't use that Dullcote garbage as it will absolutely yellow over time, sunlight or not.

 

I hope this helps.

Kenny

 

Here's my unabridged version of working with water-slide decals from many years ago (in case you're uninitiated):

The key to decals, in my experience, is consistency in approach. You get in a "rhythm" that way

1.) Glosscoat with Future floorpolish.
2.) Make your water a milky white mixture of white glue and water. You'll want the "just rinsed cereal bowl in the sink" look.
3.) Have a jar of Future and your milkywater standing by, along with two soft paint brushes, a paper towel with a torn edge, and a clean towel.
4.) Dip the decal in the water/glue mixture for 10-15 seconds. Place it on a towel.
5.) Allow the decal to moisten for at least two minutes. Don't touch the decal.
6.) I said "Don't touch the decal."
7.) After a full two minutes, touch the edge of the decal with a paint brush, and try to gently push it along. I said "Don't touch it." You're wanting it to get to the point where it floats off the backing with the slightest pressure. You can dunk it again - hold with tweezers - or just place a drop of the milky water on it if it's softening fast enough.
8.) Once the decal is all "loosy goosy," paint just a little bit of Future with one brush and a couple of drops of the milky water with the other brush on the model where the decal is to go.
9.) Hold the decal up to the model with tweezers, and slide it off the backing using the brush you just used for the glue.
10.) Smooth the decal out and position it with the brush; for large decals, I use a moist cotton swab. Work quickly, you've got about three minutes with the Future.
11.) Don't touch the decal! Touch the torn edge of the paper towel to the edge of the decal and wick away the excess Future and water.
12.)I said "Don't touch the decal!" :) Allow it to dry. It may crinkle a bit as it dries. That's okay. It will smooth out. Some large decals may have a bubble or wrinkle that hangs around. No big deal. Poke a hole with a straight pin and brush a bit of Future there.

This technique lets the Future suck the decals down onto...more Future. You'll have little trouble with panel lines any more. Additionally, there's something about the Future that seems to act as a bit of a decal softener by proxy. I'm not sure if it's due to the decals truly being softened or the existing Future glosscoat being softened during the application.

I hope this helps.

 

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