Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[Thom]

Wow, some great work @wm cheng!

@Cheese3 That's a pretty cool looking Macross collection.

[Gabe Q]

Thank you @wm cheng for the lesson in perseverance! The VT-1 looks great! The canopy is crystal clear. You'd never know there was a huge moldline there. The paint job looks amazing. 10/10 After all these years you're still the master model builder around here!

[pengbuzz]

On 7/26/2025 at 6:24 AM, SteveTheFish said:

Hey, yo yo yo. If you have a 3D printer or have access to one through a friend or whatever, CHECK THIS OUT. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTf9VV-JAv8

This guy designed replacement parts for the top command deck as well as the engines. I bought the STL files from him about a year and a half ago but I have yet to get these printed for me. Unfortunately, he never got around to making a replacement for the bulb below the bridge section, nor did he create the disruptor cannons on the underside of the forward parts of the wings. But his price is pretty reasonable and your kit will look a lot better than out of the box, so I highly recommend it. 

Much appreciated Steve, but by the time I read this, I had already done most of the work in masking tape:

Had to do quite a bit of research on this one, as the colors looked gunmetal grey in parts of ST:TMP. I found color pics of the filming model here though:

https://www.collectormodel.com/round2-models/4487-polar-lights-model-kits-ktinga-the-colors-man-the-colors-pt-1/

and 

https://www.collectormodel.com/round2-models/4500-polar-lights-model-kits-ktinga-the-colors-man-the-colors-pt-2/

I still have several small details to add in; those are ongoing, as is the installation of windows (not 11, thank heaven!).

Stay tuned...

 

[wm cheng]

4 hours ago, Gabe Q said:

Thank you @wm cheng for the lesson in perseverance! The VT-1 looks great! The canopy is crystal clear. You'd never know there was a huge moldline there. The paint job looks amazing. 10/10 After all these years you're still the master model builder around here!

Hey @Gabe Q, there's a much easier way to remove that moldline now (I used to scrape it with an exacto, then sand, then Tamiya Polish and clear coat by dipping it in Future). I found these GodHand sanding sponges and you work from 2000, 4000, 6000, 8000, 10000 lightly sanding the seam and it dissappears crystal clear!  I still dip my canopies in Future to make them extra shiny though, but its not to hide any scratches from the sanding anymore.

Hey @pengbuzz that Klingon Battlecruiser turned out amazing!!!  Great paint finish on it too!  Thanks for the colour info, I have to bookmark those for future reference.

 

Hard to believe it's been 20yrs since I bought this kit!  Here's the VE-1 I did 18yrs ago for comparison when I was trying to do the smoothest coat of paint I could and weathered everything (post shading) with an airbrush - it looks too clean and slick (although I purposely tried to restrain the weathering on both of these as I thought they'd be better kept than something in used in war).  Not that I've been building consistently for the last 18yrs, I've taken many years off but I like seeing the progress.

[Rock]

On 7/28/2025 at 6:12 PM, wm cheng said:

Finally finished!  The canopy decal didn't fit properly, the left side did, but the right half was a tad too long, wierd, the VE-1 decals fit perfectly, it also crumbled into 4-5 pieces - probably due to age, but I noticed some of the round vernier thruster port decals didn't fit the engraved details perfectly too.  That serves me for having 20yr old models to get to in my stash!  Funny some of the weathering paint mottling didn't show up on my iPhone photos as much.  I will take some better photos of them, but you can see @arbit amazing Minmay sculpt so well in the those huge bubble canopies.  

 

Glad to see how this turned out! Minmay looks great! 

 

On 7/26/2025 at 8:19 PM, nightmareB4macross said:

This build seems to never end. But the arms are good. Now onto more detailing and control panels.

What Misa figure is that?

[Chas]

Oops!

Edited Wednesday at 01:02 AM by Chas

[pengbuzz]

3 hours ago, wm cheng said:

Hey @Gabe Q, there's a much easier way to remove that moldline now (I used to scrape it with an exacto, then sand, then Tamiya Polish and clear coat by dipping it in Future). I found these GodHand sanding sponges and you work from 2000, 4000, 6000, 8000, 10000 lightly sanding the seam and it dissappears crystal clear!  I still dip my canopies in Future to make them extra shiny though, but its not to hide any scratches from the sanding anymore.

Hey @pengbuzz that Klingon Battlecruiser turned out amazing!!!  Great paint finish on it too!  Thanks for the colour info, I have to bookmark those for future reference.

 

Hard to believe it's been 20yrs since I bought this kit!  Here's the VE-1 I did 18yrs ago for comparison when I was trying to do the smoothest coat of paint I could and weathered everything (post shading) with an airbrush - it looks too clean and slick (although I purposely tried to restrain the weathering on both of these as I thought they'd be better kept than something in used in war).  Not that I've been building consistently for the last 18yrs, I've taken many years off but I like seeing the progress.

Nice save/ work on these, WM!! And thanks! It's still kind of a work in progress; glad the references are of help to you! 

[Papa Rat]

@wm cheng I did a test fit on the VE-1 I got for my birthday a month ago. My wife and kid know what I like. ♥️  Anyway, I have been focusing on old vintage kits mostly but look forward to jumping back in and getting it all built up this year. If you have a link to more photos or post them here I’d love to see more. What you have shared so far is beautiful and very inspiring. 👍

Edited Wednesday at 03:08 AM by Papa Rat

[nightmareB4macross]

You guys really know how to make a kit really stand out. Excellent talent.

Working on the gun details. And yes, definitely keeping the firing mechanism.

Pew, pew, pew.

[SteveTheFish]

Tonight I finished laying down decals for my 1:2500 scale Enterprise E model kit. Next I'll have to apply a satin clear coat and color in the windows with an alcohol pen.

[Goodman Models]

On 7/25/2025 at 3:19 PM, Big s said:

It’s doable, but can be very risky. You kinda have to sand the lop layer a bit, and poke a tiny hole for the softener to soak through. This method runs a few scary risks since the weathering is already applied and can just make everything even more noticeable, or ruin the decal

the best way I’lve found to do decals from the start is after the base colors are layed down to use a gloss coat and then lay them down. After they dry, use the softener like microsol or Mr marksofter and usually that allows it to conform better. You can do the needle trick if there is a spot the decal didn’t conform to well like with a panel line and the softener gets under there and usually does the trick. Then there’s a couple other techniques that work well for blending the edge to make it disappear. You can mix your base color with some clear and spray around the edges to blend them in, or there’s the method that takes a bit more work and that’s to put a few layers of gloss over the decal and use a smoother sand paper and gently sand at the edges to level them down. Be very careful not to over sand and ruin the decal or the base color. Then add a final gloss to make sure the edge is gone. As long as the edge is gone using whatever method works best, then you can do all the weathering and final top coating to finish up.

All of what big said; I’ve had success removing decals by carefully sanding them off and doing a bit of touch ups with the airbrush and then reapplying new decals. Just take your time. 

[Papa Rat]

24 minutes ago, Goodman Models said:

All of what big said; I’ve had success removing decals by carefully sanding them off and doing a bit of touch ups with the airbrush and then reapplying new decals. Just take your time. 

Thanks. 

[Big s]

1 hour ago, Goodman Models said:

All of what big said; I’ve had success removing decals by carefully sanding them off and doing a bit of touch ups with the airbrush and then reapplying new decals. Just take your time. 

I think that’s a good option, but there are some cases where there isn’t another set of decals easily available. I think he was working on an older kit, so finding a replacement would also be finding the older kit again 

[Papa Rat]

4 minutes ago, Big s said:

I think that’s a good option, but there are some cases where there isn’t another set of decals easily available. I think he was working on an older kit, so finding a replacement would also be finding the older kit again 

This brings up a question…do people print their own decals and if so is it something that requires special equipment? I have a scanner and printer if it’s as easy as using a special decal paper or something. 

[pengbuzz]

3 hours ago, Papa Rat said:

This brings up a question…do people print their own decals and if so is it something that requires special equipment? I have a scanner and printer if it’s as easy as using a special decal paper or something. 

Actually, people do, and it is as easy as special paper! They sell blank decal paper (both clear and white blank films), and you can buy them for either inkjet or laser printer. The only drawback is that unless you have an "ALPS" printer, you cannot print white (hence the white decal film). When you print it, you do need to seal it with clearcoat (unless it's laser), and you have to cur the decals out individually, as the film is one solid sheet across the paper.

Link to Expert's choice (instructions and maker of one brand): 

https://www.bare-metal.com/experts-choice-decal-film.html

Edited Wednesday at 07:35 PM by pengbuzz

[Papa Rat]

10 minutes ago, pengbuzz said:

Actually, people do, and it is as easy as special paper! They sell blank decal paper (both clear and white blank films), and you can buy them for either inkjet or laser printer. The only drawback is that unless you have an "ALPS" printer, you cannot print white (hence the white decal film). When you print it, you do need to seal it with clearcoat (unless it's laser), and you have to cur the decals out individually, as the film is one solid sheet across the paper.

Wow!!!! That’s wonderful. Thanks so much. 

[pengbuzz]

4 minutes ago, Papa Rat said:

Wow!!!! That’s wonderful. Thanks so much. 

I updated my post with a link to one of the sites.  But here it is again:

https://www.bare-metal.com/experts-choice-decal-film.html

Also: if you don't have photoshop, there's a version very much like it online called photopea that works the same way for designing decals (and other stuff):

https://www.photopea.com/

You can load fonts into it as well, and there are a lot of places online that have free fonts to use for various projects (as long as you don't try to sell the work!). I've found many for star trek ships, macross, star wars, etc. as well as symbols and whatnot.

 

Edited Wednesday at 07:43 PM by pengbuzz

[Papa Rat]

10 minutes ago, pengbuzz said:

I updated my post with a link to one of the sites.  But here it is again:

https://www.bare-metal.com/experts-choice-decal-film.html

Also: if you don't have photoshop, there's a version very much like it online called photopea that works the same way for designing decals (and other stuff):

https://www.photopea.com/

You can load fonts into it as well, and there are a lot of places online that have free fonts to use for various projects (as long as you don't try to sell the work!). I've found many for star trek ships, macross, star wars, etc. as well as symbols and whatnot.

 

Wow. Thanks for all the info and links. Maybe I’ll order some sheets to play with. I imagine I could scan in decal sheets from these old kits and make backups if the scans work out. You rock Pengbuzz

Edited Wednesday at 07:46 PM by Papa Rat

[pengbuzz]

12 minutes ago, Papa Rat said:

Wow. Thanks for all the info and links. Maybe I’ll order some sheets to play with. I imagine I could scan in decal sheets from these old kits and make backups if the scans work out. You rock Pengbuzz

No problem, Papa Rat!  I often use a digital camera to photograph sets I think may not work, or I'll look them up online (sometimes scalemates.com has images of decal sheets for specific kits). 

[Papa Rat]

16 minutes ago, pengbuzz said:

No problem, Papa Rat!  I often use a digital camera to photograph sets I think may not work, or I'll look them up online (sometimes scalemates.com has images of decal sheets for specific kits). 

👍

[nightmareB4macross]

This 1/55 GU-11 is looking the part.

[Papa Rat]

@nightmareB4macross Looking sharp!

[SteveTheFish]

5 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

Actually, people do, and it is as easy as special paper! They sell blank decal paper (both clear and white blank films), and you can buy them for either inkjet or laser printer. The only drawback is that unless you have an "ALPS" printer, you cannot print white (hence the white decal film). When you print it, you do need to seal it with clearcoat (unless it's laser), and you have to cur the decals out individually, as the film is one solid sheet across the paper.

Link to Expert's choice (instructions and maker of one brand): 

https://www.bare-metal.com/experts-choice-decal-film.html

ALPS printers... It's been many years since I last attended Wonder Festival, which was just weekend (the one in Chiba, not Wonder Fest in Kentucky (although I did get to go there once about 9 years ago)), but there was one dealer who was selling ALPS printers. I have no idea if they even make ink for those printers anymore. I've only encountered one, when I worked at Aoshima. I think you have to tell it to print white and then the colors on top of the white. I don't know what software is used or if that is just a button you can press on it. They had a laptop running Windows XP just to use that printer, since they are only 32-bit compatible. 

With the way 3D printing is becoming so popular, it's hard to believe that there isn't such a printer these days for people to make their own decals affordably. I wouldn't mind getting one. As it is, I've only really just done decals for lighter-colored models and such. 

[Papa Rat]

@SteveTheFish Sounds cool.

 

Rippin into this little 1/35 Artpla Ma.K. As fast as I can.  Got it primed in Mahogany, did a first round of seam removal/putty. Moving into a second round of sanding/putty to tighten things up. Got a bit of MR Color 28 on the exposed frame parts and hand. Once seams are completely gone and final bits attached I’m going in for brush painting lacquers. I wanted to do this for my last build but chickened out and went back to the airbrush. Well the subject matter and tradition set me on a certain trajectory to try out something new and experimental for me. So excited 😆 

Edited Thursday at 06:21 AM by Papa Rat

[nightmareB4macross]

14 hours ago, Papa Rat said:

@SteveTheFish Sounds cool.

 

Rippin into this little 1/35 Artpla Ma.K. As fast as I can.  Got it primed in Mahogany, did a first round of seam removal/putty. Moving into a second round of sanding/putty to tighten things up. Got a bit of MR Color 28 on the exposed frame parts and hand. Once seams are completely gone and final bits attached I’m going in for brush painting lacquers. I wanted to do this for my last build but chickened out and went back to the airbrush. Well the subject matter and tradition set me on a certain trajectory to try out something new and experimental for me. So excited 😆 

Wow. You sir are a kit building machine.

[nightmareB4macross]

Let’s compare.

[Papa Rat]

11 minutes ago, nightmareB4macross said:

Let’s compare.

Hahaha. I stay up late after I get the kiddo to bed so I can find some free time. I have to act fast if I want to get any building done. Been doing too many late nights lately. Running on 5 hours of sleep on consecutive days catches up to me at work.  Not getting any younger over here. 
 

Wow! Getting closer. It’s so nice to see these two side by side. Once that primer and paint goes down! Can’t wait. 

Edited Thursday at 07:56 PM by Papa Rat

[Thom]

Looking good there @nightmareB4macross! The mods to that gun are sick!

[Papa Rat]

Two coats before bedtime. Back at it tomorrow night for another coat or more. Regardless of the outcome I’m really enjoying this process. It’s very calming and its randomness makes it exciting.

Main armor is Mr Color 21 Middle Stone over mahogany primer. Wanting to do some markings in an off white and I’m thinking the Neupanzerschrecks would look good in Mr color 512 Russian Green ? Not sure. 

Edited 23 hours ago by Papa Rat

[tekering]

I love the mottled weathering pattern you've got going there. 

[Papa Rat]

1 minute ago, tekering said:

I love the mottled weathering pattern you've got going there. 

Hey thanks!

[Duymon]

This is ~3.5 months of 3d modelling work. Translating metal mini's into 3d prints and updating them to artwork standard has been a blast 

[Papa Rat]

2 hours ago, Duymon said:

This is ~3.5 months of 3d modelling work. Translating metal mini's into 3d prints and updating them to artwork standard has been a blast 

Looks great. Can you remind me what tabletop game these are for?

Edited 17 hours ago by Papa Rat
Spelling

[Big s]

9 hours ago, Papa Rat said:

Two coats before bedtime. Back at it tomorrow night for another coat or more. Regardless of the outcome I’m really enjoying this process. It’s very calming and its randomness makes it exciting.

Main armor is Mr Color 21 Middle Stone over mahogany primer. Wanting to do some markings in an off white and I’m thinking the Neupanzerschrecks would look good in Mr color 512 Russian Green ? Not sure. 

You’re like a machine. I started my project a couple weeks ago and barely where I can start painting. The mods I added were extremely minor, nothing time consuming, but I’m definitely at a slower pace. Can’t wait to see your project done

[Big s]

2 hours ago, Duymon said:

This is ~3.5 months of 3d modelling work. Translating metal mini's into 3d prints and updating them to artwork standard has been a blast 

These all look really cool

 

19 hours ago, nightmareB4macross said:

Let’s compare.

Definitely a wild amount of work and it’s definitely paying off