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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. Correct, they definitely made a notable change to the plastic used for the super parts for this run.
  2. The old one had a clearer/better canopy, the new one is darker, harder to see inside. Not as bad as the -31's are, but someone at Bandai clearly has a thing for overly-tinted canopies. ::edit:: Head lasers are straighter in the old one, but can't be sure if just this particular re-release copy is warped, or the whole batch is like that.
  3. Rather have too pale than too dark though, personally. (you barely beat me)
  4. Hmmm. The original super parts were too dark/grey, but this is an over-correction. Right in between the two is "screen accurate" I'd say.
  5. I like the Mikumo one (looks fairly Decepticon-y) but not enough to pick it up over Mirage's. And certainly not a 5-pack.
  6. The Mirage version is GORGEOUS, and I would buy in an instant--but is it "fanon"? We barely saw her sit in an M&M VF-9 in Delta, I don't think there's anything about her using a 5000? (but again---WOULD BUY)
  7. The only thing I trust less than Yamato's stock pics, are Bandai's stock pics...
  8. That's the curse of liking valks----can't sleep when there's a pre-order, and then can't ever sleep afterwards in case you miss a restock...
  9. "Completely different every time". Will keep waiting for final-production in-hand pics before I again debate picking one up.
  10. Thanks much for the info/pics. Think I'll just keep it set to EMS.
  11. Anyone ship a valk from AmiAmi recently? My VF-25 Alto is on order there, and it's currently set to use EMS, but was wondering what current speed/pricing for other options have been lately. (I went with air parcel for my last purchase, and I THINK it was worth the savings, barely)
  12. Realized I never replied! Anyways---someday, when I have a 3D printer, I'll be able to print a Misa out for my VF-4.
  13. Any time they make a Max but not a Milia, I'm disappointed. Would buy a Milia version in an instant.
  14. I suspect it would help against UV-based yellowing from sitting near a window, but considering the valks I've had turn yellow in a windowless room/inside their box, "being exposed to air/oxygen" is still a factor, and I'm not sure a clear-coat would be "air-proof".
  15. While "stealing the Enterprise" is the obvious, nostalgic move---it pains me to say, but I think stealing Voyager is the better, and more likely move. It's MUCH faster, MUCH newer, I dare say it'd be better in a fight, and if anybody knows "Janeway's secret start-up command password" or built a back-door for herself in case of emergencies, it's Seven...
  16. People are joking, but that "much deeper" shade of blue IS an absolute deal-killer, at least for me. It's like history repeating itself for the third time. From Yamato to Arcadia to Bandai. Show something that looks pale/slate/desaturated blue as a sample, then make it way more blue at the last minute, so that it looks nothing like the show. I just want SOMEBODY to make a VF-0D in a dull shade of blue. My "acceptable range" is pretty wide at this point, from original Yamato sample to HMR sample----but every actual release has been way too rich.
  17. I am a **huge** Xenogears fan, but pretty much gave the first batch of kits one look and thought "nope". Basically zero parts/color separation, they'd be a nightmare to paint. And now, ESPECIALLY Xenogears itself. I might buy Vierge if ever offered alone, as it's one of my faves and has simpler colors than most. But Brigandier and Heimdal? Hard no. And Renmazuo even harder no. XG runs the gambit of having some of my all-time most fave, and least-fave, mecha designs. So big multi-packs are a massive dis-incentive to purchase.
  18. Is there an official scan/art anywhere, of the "winged MM" symbol that's on Mirage's -31AX and Max's -29? Best images I can find of it are photos of the DX toys, but the hinge-lines etc make a mess of some areas.
  19. When do we get balloon-shooting DLC?
  20. I have a small plastic colander I originally bought for like single servings of pasta, but it's pretty much dedicated to washing Lego now. The holes are just small enough that no piece will get out (though I do worry about lightsaber blades aligning perfectly and managing to slip through) and being plastic means it won't scratch like my big metal one might. Colanders are THE way to wash Lego.
  21. It just took way too long to get to this point. This should have been episode 6. Even ep 10 still seemed to be filler, instead of building up to this. 2-3 eps cut out would have lost NOTHING of significance, and cutting 4-6 eps I think would have made it progress a lot better. I was honestly mentally comparing it to DBZ until just now---"They need to keep leveling up their duels/classes/business license, until they can beat the boss..."----just how long can they drag this slow-build-up out?
  22. Stuck barrels have been an issue since the early days of the mold---my Ozma had a rather stuck one, and I totally "pumped it in and out a zillion times to loosen it up" and it still sticks a lot--it just doesn't get COMPLETELY stuck like it used to. I never really did figure out a definitive "fix". Can't recall if I tried to sand some of the paint off the barrels where they ride on the rails. (I don't think so, I think it was basically impossible to get access to) And getting it unstuck the first time or two was indeed a nightmare. May legitimately want to use a hairdryer or heat gun (carefully!) to warm up the plastic a bit before trying to unstick it. My other piece of advice---if it gets stuck "mid-way" when going either direction---go back to where it was before it got stuck and try again. Do not try to "keep pulling" or "keep collapsing" it to try to force it the rest of the way---that will make it VERY stuck! You want one continuous extension manuever, or one continuous collapse manuever. Fully out or fully in, no in-between, and no stops on the way. It it does stop---move it back to whichever position it was in before, and try again. Don't "keep trying to go in the direction that caused it to get stuck". Combine that with the above---if it's REALLY stuck--heat it up, and GO BACK TO HOW IT WAS BEFORE--don't heat it up and try to "get it past the stuck point". Heat it up in order to be able to 'reset the position'.
  23. While I am a HUGE Blacktron 1 fan, and this set is pretty much designed just for me (the Invade is my fave Blacktron set)----$190 is just too steep, when it really doesn't include any Blacktron parts! All stickers. I can probably just Bricklink it, and do a few part-swaps with real vintage printed Blacktron pieces for some markings. I still plan to think about though---I do kinda like the Tallneck set, and that plus the TIE Bomber would get me close...
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