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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. I've been checking on HDD board replacements---much conflicting info on if it works. Specifically I have a WD10EZEX, which from what I can tell has a "unique to that serial number" chip on it which needs to be swapped to any replacement board. Now I'm perfectly willing to pay the places that offer it, but I would like to at least try "getting it to run as-is" first if possible, as the turn-around time could be a while. (especially if board-swapping won't likely work).
  2. Ground/SATA question: the 3 burned pins on the HDD, seem to have broken/melted off the PCB board end. Are they truly necessary? Based on pin-out, they are grounds---are all grounds equal? The other 3 ground pins are perfect. In other words---what are the odds that the HDD (with 3 of 6 ground pins out of commission) can be read at least once or twice to snag some files, once I have a working PC again?
  3. Current goal is more "decent for now, with complete replacement later" rather than future-proofing or upgradeability. Will be run purely stock. (I used to overclock, but not any more) I tend to put in big coolers so that they can run cool and very quiet at stock, vs allow heavy overclocking. Im thinking about Ryzen 1600 or 2600, for price/availability...
  4. That's kinda similar to what I was looking at earlier. I was leaning towards "most popular" options from PCpartpicker etc, figuring lowest odds of incompatibility etc. Currently, that'd be something like: Ryzen 3600 MSI B450 Max 16GB of Corsair RAM That's roughly $400. (not including cost of new PSU as need one regardless). Will need a new cooler too, my AMD brackets are long-gone it seems. (and my intel ones won't work for current gen I think)
  5. Would you suggest just buying a pre-built system, and basically plugging my GPU in it? I was planning on buying a new PSU at BestBuy tomorrow (the one thing they do have a few decent options of), might just have to buy a PC too... ::edit:: A quick look shows I hate all the pre-builts. Would rather spend the same money on a mobo combo. Still looking for suggestions on a "drop into my existing case" mobo/cpu/ram combo.
  6. As I am PC-less now, speed is important, I'd want to order tonight if possible, and maybe have it later this week. So a combo from one place (likely Amazon? Usually very quick around here) is probably preferred. So, suggestions urgently requested. Want to spend "a couple hundred" on mobo+cpu+ram. Will re-use everything else for now. As it's replacing an i5-4690 system, I figure most anything will be an improvement. (I'm up to GPU #3, that's really about all that matters)
  7. Tried raw mobo/psu/cpu/ram----same "half-second attempt" as before. Even tried swapping RAM around just in case---nope. So, as trying to get a mobo only (old) is likely pointless, I may as well just get a whole new CPU/RAM/mobo combo, and be sure of things. Most of this PC's parts were bought a while ago--Newegg has gone quite downhill, and NCSX is gone, so I'm open to suggestions on where/how/what to get. Basically: I am looking to get something quick, decent, and cheap, to use my existing drives and GPU (and likely PSU---can't imagine both are bad, I'm still blaming mobo or drives or cable). Normally I try to go for medium-high gaming, but this time I just want something to "tide me over" until I have the time/research to build a good all-new system. Existing case is pretty large, so most anything should fit. Pretty much just need an ATX mobo, CPU and RAM. (my current CPU and RAM are too old to re-use on any current mobo now)
  8. Thing is, this was the "backup" PSU I just put in a bit ago. I double-checked, and it wasn't plugged in backwards (impossible due to keyed shape, and burn marks match "correct" alignment). But found bigger problem: HDD was on same power cable (several SATA devices on it) and it got hit too: As the pins are still visible, I'm hoping the connector is still salvageable by getting rid of the melted plastic, and I can recover my files since my last backup. Any thoughts/suggestions? As to cause----cable itself went bad? Power issue started with the PSU it's been using, not this one But was using same HDD/DVD SATA power cable for almost all tests. ::edit:: Googling, it seems "good" mobo's will shut themselves off with a dead short----that would explain it dying/cycling, if it was trying to protect itself.
  9. Pulling most things worked, two or three times in a row. So started hooking things back up again and testing----then I smelled something, plastic/vinyl----usually not good. Then my DVD burner (yes, still have one) started smoking at the connector: I am hoping that is the cause, and not a symptom... (I'm very glad my GPU was still pulled, as that's my newest and most expensive component)
  10. Getting worse, not better. Most times it won't power on at all. Working my way down to "bare mobo/psu/cpu/ram" but disconnecting most everything else made no difference. Backup PSU made no difference. Leaning towards mobo at this point. Did pull CMOS battery again and jumped pins to clear, but no difference.
  11. CMOS battery---might be it? Started right up after replacing it. Going to reconnect case's power and reset switches and see. ::edit:: Nope, was just a random success, like the one other successful boot today.
  12. First bit of testing (after vacuuming/dusting just in case)--- Not the power switch itself---disconnected it and used the MOBO's own little button. Same result. Interesting thing I noticed----even after flipping the PSU's master switch to off, it still tried like one more half-try, until the MOBO's own power-indicator LED fully faded out. It strikes me as odd that it tries SO hard to keep booting, even when the master switch is flipped off. ::edit:: Power cable swap didn't do anything. CMOS battery next (unlikely but cheap/easy), then PSU swap.
  13. Just had something weird/bad happen with my PC----when trying to come out of sleep mode, it kind of went into a VERY short repetitive boot cycle---most of the lights would come on for half a sec, then everything would die. Then light up for half a sec, and die. It wouldn't respond to power or reset buttons, only way to stop this cycling was to literally pull the plug. Attempting a cold boot from that resulted in same thing--lights up for half a sec then dies, and starts repeating that while ignoring power/reset buttons--had to pull plug. Went through about 3 sets of these cycles, and this last time----started up fine. My guess is that my PSU suddenly "went bad" (about 6 years old, a Seasonic gold) but am wondering about other options/suggestions. I do have an older "backup" PSU that actually has far fewer hours on it at this point, but it's got a bit lower rating and I'm not sure it's up to the task of running my GPU when it's working hard. ::NEW THOUGHT::----power button itself? It's a "custom" one that is unique to the case, and it's always been a bit "finicky", but I noticed a few weeks ago it was "even more so" (not registering an "on" push sometimes)----I'd vote on it giving out more than the PSU. But would that explain why it wouldn't come out of sleep mode via keyboard/mouse? (since button wouldn't have been touched since last cold boot) Could the power button have become "stuck" while sleeping, causing power issues? (the button itself only depresses like 1mm if that, it has almost no travel, but isn't capacitive/touch based)
  14. Yeah, that color is kinda "gross". It's a sickly white. It's not even cream or ivory, it's like "nicotine-stained" or something.
  15. Green lion looks awfully boxy and similar to red lion, and that instantly sets off the Voltron fan in me. Blue and yellow lions are quite similar, but red and green should be quite different. Red is a couple cubes stuck together, green is a couple spheres, basically.
  16. Having the sides of the truck white, and the front of the truck silver, is probably the biggest WTF from Takara I've seen in many years.
  17. Personally I've never been fond of excessive use of layers of plates. Eventually you'll end up at the "typical style of very large official Lego creations" where it's just a zillion stacked directly from bottom to top, with no "techniques" or ingenuity to get the desired shapes, beyond occasionally moving one stud over as you go up.
  18. They actually painted it----and it still doesn't match the real thing's color at all...
  19. Yup, NO STICKERS. All printed. See the first close-up pic of the large wing-tile. Stickers would be cheaper, but I'm not cheaping out on a $200 set, and wouldn't be much of an improvement over Lego's own. But printing that's 99% the same as the official? Oh yes... I got them from here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/millionprintsdesign/ Someone ordered enough printed parts to make a 200X Atlantis, with the meatball logos: (and again----printed, not stickers) Just a pair of printed-name-cockpit-wedges will make the biggest difference in looks IMHO, the rest are just "nice little upgrades".
  20. Unlike a certain set of stickers, Discovery most certainly does not suck. That said, it's simply not *quite* as cool as Atlantis...
  21. O Canada(rm!) Meh vs yeah! Stickers suck! Crooked stickers suck even more. But perfectly-aligned stickers that still end up looking crooked suck the most! All together: (aka my shuttle is better than your shuttle)
  22. Shuttle upgrade phase 2 sneak peek:
  23. Probably not. When it comes to Joes, I'd say the majority of stories I see are along the lines of "I bought a premium membership just to get this figure, and it still sold out in 4 secs". Honestly a better use of the funds is to pay a scalper---at least then you'll actually get the figure...
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