Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[Papa Rat]

@pengbuzzThanks for sharing. It’s wonderful to have such an amazing partner in life. ♥️

 

Working with yard debris. Making some dry environmental grass clumps. Good old white glue don’t fail me now. 😂

 

Edited August 5 by Papa Rat

[Urashiman]

Another ~2.5 hour, a bit more progress on the vf-19

[Papa Rat]

14 hours ago, Urashiman said:

Another ~2.5 hour, a bit more progress on the vf-19

Coming along. 👍

What’s up with that Chocobo!? We love Lego and video games over here. It’s a family affair. 

Edited August 6 by Papa Rat

[Urashiman]

3 hours ago, Papa Rat said:

Coming along. 👍

What’s up with that Chocobo!? We love Lego and video games over here. It’s a family affair. 

That’s a 3.50€ purchase from ali

[Big s]

Legocobo 

[Urashiman]

Almost there.

hands, speaker gunpod and shield not done yet.

all of a sudden, one runner after another fell. Kinda like, you reached the peak and then rolling downhill at incredible speed.

I‘ll handpaint the white and yellow stripes on the head. It definitely is not an easy build, but my experience with robots/mech kits is… low. A few gundams, the plamax vf-1 and this one here. It looks really nice though.

can recommend

[Papa Rat]

Theater-scout primed in mahogany and ready for some painting. Going to brush lacquers on this kit since I had so much fun with that Ma.k. Most of the parts need to be relatively “finished” before the main body can be assembled, puttied, sanded, painted etc…

 

[Big s]

4 hours ago, Papa Rat said:

Theater-scout primed in mahogany and ready for some painting. Going to brush lacquers on this kit since I had so much fun with that Ma.k. Most of the parts need to be relatively “finished” before the main body can be assembled, puttied, sanded, painted etc…

 

Nice to see the updates in this one, especially due to scarcity of an actual build for this kit

[nightmareB4macross]

Any pilot would quit from claustrophobic reasons.

[Cheese3]

Progress!

[nightmareB4macross]

39 minutes ago, Cheese3 said:

Progress!

I remember using only “White Out” and a “Sharpie” to do all the details on this 1/144 kit.

Sir you have unlocked “my childhood.”

You deserve a badge of achievement.

🤗

[Big s]

51 minutes ago, Cheese3 said:

Progress!

You gotta do the setup with them all facing the camera in line, like a full transformation scene 

[Big s]

10 minutes ago, nightmareB4macross said:

I remember using only “White Out” and a “Sharpie” to do all the details on this 1/144 kit.

Sir you have unlocked “my childhood.”

You deserve a badge of achievement.

🤗

Wow, white out is something I never got desperate enough to try.

I do however still use sharpies on details here and there. The metallic ones do great for mechanical parts since they’re very smooth and don’t really have a flaky look even though they’re a bit duller. Oddly they still look like the dull metal in stuff like engine components even after a little dull coat.all the gold and silver around the eye and the pistons and gun barrel parts were done with metallic sharpies. I kinda like that they aren’t distractingly shiny, but they do still catch the light depending on the lighting.

[Urashiman]

And done.

It is interesting how these kits can look good without any mayor coloring (speaking:priming, airbrushing and coating). This was all done with tamiya panel line color, permanent markers and liquid chrome (also some sort of permanent marker).

I hope Basara and Mylene can attract some Spiritia to fix the strawberry plants in the background. XD

[Gabe Q]

Un-ironically, that was awesome! 

[SteveTheFish]

@pengbuzz Check this out. Good things I made friends with a 3D printing madman who doesn't mind printing lots of crap for me. I'm gonna get him a model kit to send him in exchange someday. I'm heading to America next week, so I've arranged to have him send this stuff to my dad's place while I stay there. Here is the bridge to the 537 K'Tinga. Too bad I couldn't have gotten to you earlier. This looks fantastic.  It also has improved engines, so I can slice the molded ones off and place the improved ones onto the kit instead. It comes with clear inserts too. The only thing I'll have to do is try to make the bulb part look decent somehow, plus scratchbuild the disruptors on the underside of the wings.

 

And I also had him print this Rei from Evangelion. She looks great!

 

Edited August 9 by SteveTheFish
deleted a junk file

[nightmareB4macross]

7 hours ago, Big s said:

Wow, white out is something I never got desperate enough to try.

I do however still use sharpies on details here and there. The metallic ones do great for mechanical parts since they’re very smooth and don’t really have a flaky look even though they’re a bit duller. Oddly they still look like the dull metal in stuff like engine components even after a little dull coat.all the gold and silver around the eye and the pistons and gun barrel parts were done with metallic sharpies. I kinda like that they aren’t distractingly shiny, but they do still catch the light depending on the lighting.

Those sharpie applications look great. And I wholeheartedly agree, the tone is just metal enough and not over bearing. Just perfect. I still use them to this day.

My uses for White Out as a paint was due to being poor growing up and using what ever resource possible to paint. Heck I would use it for die-cast car customs. My proudest creation was completely painting over a 911 Porsche with White Out and painting a wide black Sharpie stripe on top and writing “Skunk” on the sides. Sure it wasn’t the proper coloring, but to me it was awesome!

😄

[Papa Rat]

@Big s I had no idea that sharpie had metallic colored markers. The build looks great and thanks for the heads up. Might have to track a couple of the markers down.  Did you do a top coat over them?

[Papa Rat]

First layers of lacquer brushed on. Will do one more thin application and then it’s time to assemble and move onto the main body prep. 

[Big s]

1 hour ago, Papa Rat said:

@Big s I had no idea that sharpie had metallic colored markers. The build looks great and thanks for the heads up. Might have to track a couple of the markers down.  Did you do a top coat over them?

I actually did do a flat coat on top and they still kept a slight metallic sheen to them. Just enough to give a bit of a scaled mechanical look and not turn totally gray like a lot of other metallics. My favorites that I’d recommend would be silver, Gold and copper. They look surprisingly great after a couple coats, but you may want to do a quick top coat between them since they tend to reactivate on a second pass. I’m not as skilled as others and some people get a great pass first time. The top coat isn’t super necessary if you get a good first pass and the area isn’t gonna be touched afterwards though.

[Big s]

2 hours ago, nightmareB4macross said:

My uses for White Out as a paint was due to being poor growing up and using what ever resource possible to paint. Heck I would use it for die-cast car customs. My proudest creation was completely painting over a 911 Porsche with White Out and painting a wide black Sharpie stripe on top and writing “Skunk” on the sides. Sure it wasn’t the proper coloring, but to me it was awesome!

I’d love to see pictures of how that turned out. It sounds cool. I’ve made most of my early model choices due to being poor as well. My dad would sometimes buy me a kit as a kid, but beyond that, I’d have to figure out tools and glue and stuff. Nail clippers, borrowed nail buffing stuff from my mom and sneaking nail polish. Although she would always scold me about the nail polish due to the smell. I’d lie and say I hadn’t used it, but that smell gave it away every time 

[derex3592]

1 hour ago, Papa Rat said:

First layers of lacquer brushed on. Will do one more thin application and then it’s time to assemble and move onto the main body prep. 

 

@Papa Rat Brush painting?! You ARE a madman aren't you!  There is something soothing and therapeutic about brush painting...to bad I completely SUCK at it and always just give up and break out an airbrush on anything other than the tiniest parts on things....Looking forward to seeing more! What paints are you using and what's your method? 

[Papa Rat]

1 hour ago, derex3592 said:

@Papa Rat Brush painting?! You ARE a madman aren't you!  There is something soothing and therapeutic about brush painting...to bad I completely SUCK at it and always just give up and break out an airbrush on anything other than the tiniest parts on things....Looking forward to seeing more! What paints are you using and what's your method? 

I wanted to try brush painting a few builds back but also chickened out and went back to airbrush. Big S on this forum posted about the HLJ Ma.k. Contest so I thought I’d go for it. I had a 3 pack of these 1:35 Grober Hund kits which seemed like the right path to take for my first go at brush painting seeing as this series has a history utilizing that process. I posted that build a couple pages back on this thread. It was a great experience. Good for me to loosen up and also a great way to embrace the randomness in mark making which goes against my OCD tendencies. 
 

Note I’m using all lacquer “MR Color” paints. I just primed the elements of the build in a dark color. This case mahogany. Then I use a few ceramic dishes. Like the ones you may find at a sushi restaurant. Add paint and thin out with leveling thinner. I try and thin out more than airbrush ratios I guess since it thickens up quite fast. Once it gets thick I add more thinner and continue painting, leaving some areas for the primer to show through and semi-avoiding panel line areas, but as the paint thickens it adds more elements of opacity to the coverage which I think is interesting. Once it dries I will go back with another thin layer or two to fill in any areas I want more coverage. I guess that’s about it. This is only my second attempt and think I will stay on this trajectory for a while since I’m having fun with it and I have lots to work on as far as technique and achieving the esthetic appeal I’m looking for. 
 

edit * the way I apply the paint is sort of a light touch, a dab, maybe you could say a stipple motion and I am in constant movement across the surface hitting one area and moving along. The thinner reactivates the layers underneath so you want to avoid hitting one area repeatedly in one pass unless you want the paint to mix which is a look in itself.  Some subtle mixing will happen but I like the look. 

Edited August 8 by Papa Rat

[pengbuzz]

Still working on this; paint job needs refinement and whatnot. Decals are "whatever I think looks legit" and would make sense (for what that's worth):

 

Used some "artistic license" in a few places:

 

Stay tuned.

[Papa Rat]

17 minutes ago, pengbuzz said:

Still working on this; paint job needs refinement and whatnot. Decals are "whatever I think looks legit" and would make sense (for what that's worth):

 

Used some "artistic license" in a few places:

 

Stay tuned.

Nice work 👍

[Papa Rat]

Assembly almost complete. Main structures are now locked into the main fuselage. Now I need to remove some large seams on both sides and then get back to painting.

Looks so silly standing up like a dolphin. 🐬 

[Big s]

8 hours ago, derex3592 said:

There is something soothing and therapeutic about brush painting...to bad I completely SUCK at it and always just give up and break out an airbrush on anything other than the tiniest parts on things

I’m still more of a mostly airbrush person these days, but Lacquer hand brushing is all the rage with the Machinen Krieger guys. It’s wild to watch how it works. Paint on Plastic YouTube channel gets into it a lot and the guy running the channel worked with a lot of the big names involved and has many studio pics in books and magazines 

[Thom]

Coming along great @pengbuzz! Well worth the save and recovery.

Good work on that Scout @Papa Rat!

[nightmareB4macross]

8 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

Still working on this; paint job needs refinement and whatnot. Decals are "whatever I think looks legit" and would make sense (for what that's worth):

 

Used some "artistic license" in a few places:

 

Stay tuned.

You’re very talented.

The way you transformed tape like that is pure magic!

 

[pengbuzz]

4 hours ago, nightmareB4macross said:

You’re very talented.

The way you transformed tape like that is pure magic!

 

Thanks!

When I was a kid, my dad worked for a filter manufacturing company/factory that ordered a lot of 3M Masking Tape. We lived in the projects and could barely get by (factory was the best job my dad could get, as he dropped out of middle school to help his family by working), so most toys and stuff I ended up not getting . If I wanted something, I had to make it myself out of cardboard and masking tape.

Over the years, I'd like to think I got good at it.

In any event, my dad passed some years ago (WWII vet, died August 28, 2011); I continue to use masking tape to honor his memory and the sacrifices he made to keep us fed, clothed and a roof over our heads.

[electric indigo]

10 hours ago, Papa Rat said:

Now I need to remove some large seams on both sides and then get back to painting.

The seam at the front should be easy to sand. For the recessed area, I would cover it with a strip of thin styrene cut to shape.

[Papa Rat]

6 hours ago, electric indigo said:

The seam at the front should be easy to sand. For the recessed area, I would cover it with a strip of thin styrene cut to shape.

Thanks for the suggestion. I had contemplated using styrene but opted for putty, sanding and a pain in the neck. Hahaha. 

[Rock]

Based the size roughly from a data sheet comparison with all the calks scaled next to eachother. The measured of the Hasegawa VF-19A and had my friend printed it at 15.5" (nose tip to foot.) 

 

1/48(ish)

 

Will be a test bed for plastic type, painting and how it reacts to traditional modeling. If all is well, I've got a Lucifer and Durandal ready to go to the printer too!

[Papa Rat]

11 minutes ago, Rock said:

Based the size roughly from a data sheet comparison with all the calks scaled next to eachother. The measured of the Hasegawa VF-19A and had my friend printed it at 15.5" (nose tip to foot.) 

 

1/48(ish)

 

Will be a test bed for plastic type, painting and how it reacts to traditional modeling. If all is well, I've got a Lucifer and Durandal ready to go to the printer too!

I have never worked with a 3d print before. Is it easy to smooth out the stair stepping texture on the surfaces? 

Edited August 9 by Papa Rat

[Rock]

27 minutes ago, Papa Rat said:

I have never worked with a 3d print before. Is it easy to smooth out the stair stepping texture on the surfaces? 

The lines you see on the close up of the underside barely can be felt with a finger nail. It is mostly visible because of the way the printer finish. 2 coats of MR. Surfacer 500 and you likely won't see 80% of the texture. Add in a pre-sand and post sanding and it should be cake walk, I use a small 400g sanding sponge attached to a vibrating tool to make most of the sanding rough work.

Edited August 9 by Rock