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Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV


Urashiman
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18 hours ago, wm cheng said:

It's looking great @arbit!  I'd love it either hair out or hair tucked in - don't really know, but its amazing!  Could you get her to lean forward a little in the seat like she's yelling at Hikaru.  How would you paint the eyes and facial features at this scale?  May I put in an paid order for one printed by you please :)!!!

Thanks.  Glad you like it.  Sure, I will have several poses in the next few weeks. 

But keep in mind that a "leaning forward" pose would hide the suit details, maybe a "half side lean"?  Send me a screen cap of what you have in mind.

I don't print for payment, but I could print you one for free, it would be my pleasure.   My figures are free to download, but I have a Patreon account for moral support.  And I make special variants for my Patrons.

Edited by arbit
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Hey @arbit, that would be amazing, but at least let me cover the mailing expenses?  Sorry to be old but what is Patreon, is it a donation thing?  How do I get onto that to provide moral support?

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25 minutes ago, wm cheng said:

Hey @arbit, that would be amazing, but at least let me cover the mailing expenses?  Sorry to be old but what is Patreon, is it a donation thing?  How do I get onto that to provide moral support?

😍😍😍 Of course. Patreon is a monthly subscription. Mine starts at only 2 USD.  I don't hobby for money, it's just for encouragement. Nothing makes me happier than seeing my fan art with others.

https://www.patreon.com/arbitscalemodels

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@wm cheng Your mod is looking really good! Your custom paint will look MUCH better than the stock version!

@electric indigo Nice colors! What scheme / country are you doing?

@arbit Your figures are looking GREAT! You're sculpting is getting more detailed to, I'd say.

 

The Frigate's Oto Melara 76 / 62 cannons are coming along SLOWLY! I decided to make the barrels out of steel because they will blacken easily and the base of the barrel is polished steel. So I thought I'd save time. In reality, the steel rod I chose seems to be for armor or something! It was slow to machine and I had to resharpen my bits several times. So, about three days later and this is what I have so far...

A blank bar of steel and the rough cut blanks.  Part of what took so long was having to make the same cuts into each barrel. Make a cut, swap barrels. Make a cut, swap barrels. All so they had the same cuts and appearance. Then doing the radius cuts on the fume extractor. You'll see the radius (bulb) shapes are not all the same - not cool. Especially with two side-by-side on the deck.

9825005_1-72F63.jpg.4a91759f08ff7de0d0ff960f28226d84.jpg1145143815_1-72F64.jpg.db81ef21f1c8537866d45ea8d7c00772.jpg

229987211_1-72F65.jpg.0f55e1c6faacaee36048ad04af2cab63.jpg

So I figured out a way to get them all the same spherical shape - well mostly all the same. I took and old Xacto knife blade and ground a curve into it with a Dremmel bit. This worked better.

454902107_1-72F66.jpg.ce413c9e56377560b6c058659db5c426.jpg1727887738_1-72F67.jpg.5f87fe21b229ffa78f7b07e67ce71bf3.jpg

Then the barrels had to be tapered and the ends cleaned up...

The barrels have a muzzle brake on them. Four rows of holes around the muzzle. I could ignore them, or try to re-create them. The details make the model, so I included them. My first option was to adapt cooling jackets from brass after market barrels. Of course, none are the right size.

So I had to go for a personal first and lathe and mill the smallest detailed parts I have ever made! I have the tiny drill bits, but they will wobble and break easily, especially during drilling over a 100 holes!!! So I first made a bit - same as last time, only this time I needed a magnifying glass. The first bit was OK, so I made a second one (from an old bit) to drill deeper. I wanted the holes to go through. They went through, but drilling the muzzle hole out, or other machining fouled the holes and I could not clear them without breaking the VERY thin brass tube. So the holes are only impressions, not completely through. The piece is so small, my camera would not focus on it.

542728128_1-72F68.jpg.767b2ebaeb8fa15856d8071d55a2fab0.jpg881599275_1-72F69.jpg.d8738cc47e10b4f91fb64714d7ee768e.jpg

Then finally, the completed and cut-out muzzle break fitted to the barrel. Sorry, my camera blocks part of photos sometimes

1016978659_1-72F70.jpg.18ee6bf51f0789e01f09d2db5df52a73.jpg1534283485_1-72F71.jpg.1c0c16ea103cdb446903dea812e30d3e.jpg1570856278_1-72F72.jpg.f1717df63006f9d963a81de9e5ffcf93.jpg

The muzzles are a little too thick, so I may try again. It's getting there slowly. Thanks for checking in everyone! - MT

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1 minute ago, MechTech said:

Your figures are looking GREAT! You're sculpting is getting more detailed to, I'd say.

Thanks.  I'm just having fun.  To be honest, it's the power of the software that lets you do this stuff, not my actual modeling abilities.  But I learn a lot with each new model.  

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"We're in the endgame now".....After 1 1/2 YEARS of work...hard work, setbacks, figuring out how to make a kit designed in the 70's by hand and re-popped in the 90's go together halfway decent, the Titanic (hiiiighly modified to accommodate lighting) and photoetch...sooo much photoetch....:crazy: is almost ready to set sail. I figure 3 to 4 more full days of work (mostly rigging) and getting her on the stand and wiring finished up to get her ready for the reveal on Christmas Day to my father-in-law.  Final pics soon! 

 

20221204_180551.jpg

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On 12/5/2022 at 1:08 PM, MechTech said:

The Frigate's Oto Melara 76 / 62 cannons are coming along SLOWLY! I decided to make the barrels out of steel because they will blacken easily and the base of the barrel is polished steel. So I thought I'd save time. In reality, the steel rod I chose seems to be for armor or something! It was slow to machine and I had to resharpen my bits several times. So, about three days later and this is what I have so far...

A blank bar of steel and the rough cut blanks.  Part of what took so long was having to make the same cuts into each barrel. Make a cut, swap barrels. Make a cut, swap barrels. All so they had the same cuts and appearance. Then doing the radius cuts on the fume extractor. You'll see the radius (bulb) shapes are not all the same - not cool. Especially with two side-by-side on the deck.

9825005_1-72F63.jpg.4a91759f08ff7de0d0ff960f28226d84.jpg1145143815_1-72F64.jpg.db81ef21f1c8537866d45ea8d7c00772.jpg

229987211_1-72F65.jpg.0f55e1c6faacaee36048ad04af2cab63.jpg

So I figured out a way to get them all the same spherical shape - well mostly all the same. I took and old Xacto knife blade and ground a curve into it with a Dremmel bit. This worked better.

454902107_1-72F66.jpg.ce413c9e56377560b6c058659db5c426.jpg1727887738_1-72F67.jpg.5f87fe21b229ffa78f7b07e67ce71bf3.jpg

Then the barrels had to be tapered and the ends cleaned up...

The barrels have a muzzle brake on them. Four rows of holes around the muzzle. I could ignore them, or try to re-create them. The details make the model, so I included them. My first option was to adapt cooling jackets from brass after market barrels. Of course, none are the right size.

So I had to go for a personal first and lathe and mill the smallest detailed parts I have ever made! I have the tiny drill bits, but they will wobble and break easily, especially during drilling over a 100 holes!!! So I first made a bit - same as last time, only this time I needed a magnifying glass. The first bit was OK, so I made a second one (from an old bit) to drill deeper. I wanted the holes to go through. They went through, but drilling the muzzle hole out, or other machining fouled the holes and I could not clear them without breaking the VERY thin brass tube. So the holes are only impressions, not completely through. The piece is so small, my camera would not focus on it.

542728128_1-72F68.jpg.767b2ebaeb8fa15856d8071d55a2fab0.jpg881599275_1-72F69.jpg.d8738cc47e10b4f91fb64714d7ee768e.jpg

Then finally, the completed and cut-out muzzle break fitted to the barrel. Sorry, my camera blocks part of photos sometimes

1016978659_1-72F70.jpg.18ee6bf51f0789e01f09d2db5df52a73.jpg1534283485_1-72F71.jpg.1c0c16ea103cdb446903dea812e30d3e.jpg1570856278_1-72F72.jpg.f1717df63006f9d963a81de9e5ffcf93.jpg

The muzzles are a little too thick, so I may try again. It's getting there slowly. Thanks for checking in everyone! - MT

Amazing work @MechTech ! As always, you continue to amaze!

16 hours ago, arbit said:

Milia V2 compared to V1.

1271691728_Screenshot2022-12-0712_21_02.png.cd2d973fb5837b8c427c2cc200927386.png

Awesome job @arbit ! Will you do a DYRL? Version, as well ? 

 

1 hour ago, derex3592 said:

"We're in the endgame now".....After 1 1/2 YEARS of work...hard work, setbacks, figuring out how to make a kit designed in the 70's by hand and re-popped in the 90's go together halfway decent, the Titanic (hiiiighly modified to accommodate lighting) and photoetch...sooo much photoetch....:crazy: is almost ready to set sail. I figure 3 to 4 more full days of work (mostly rigging) and getting her on the stand and wiring finished up to get her ready for the reveal on Christmas Day to my father-in-law.  Final pics soon! 

 

20221204_180551.jpg

@derex3592 good on you for hanging in there and pushing through! Looks great ! Looking forward to more finished pics. I'm quite sure your father in law is going to be very happy and proud.

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6 hours ago, derex3592 said:

"We're in the endgame now".....After 1 1/2 YEARS of work...hard work, setbacks, figuring out how to make a kit designed in the 70's by hand and re-popped in the 90's go together halfway decent, the Titanic (hiiiighly modified to accommodate lighting) and photoetch...sooo much photoetch....:crazy: is almost ready to set sail. I figure 3 to 4 more full days of work (mostly rigging) and getting her on the stand and wiring finished up to get her ready for the reveal on Christmas Day to my father-in-law.  Final pics soon! 

 

20221204_180551.jpg

Some great looking work there, derex!!

I have an idea for you: get a chunk of styrofoam to make an iceberg out of! :p

*runs*

Seriously though:: you must be relieved to be near the end of this one!

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4 hours ago, Bolt said:

Awesome job @arbit ! Will you do a DYRL? Version, as well ? 

But of course...

6 hours ago, derex3592 said:

"We're in the endgame now".....After 1 1/2 YEARS of work...hard work, setbacks

Its been awe inspiring seeing you you work on this giant beast.  One of my dreams was to learn how to build a wooden 18th century ship model, but never had the guts.  I am sure you have learned a ton on this build. 

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Thank you, guys! I'm learning new things as I go along. Mostly how to hang on to botched pieces to be used for other stuff later on!😁

@arbit Looks like you literally ironed out her uniform!

@derex3592 That's great that you're in the home stretch! She's looking great and I hope they appreciate all the work you're putting into this! I hope you have a case for it. - MT

 

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@arbit somehow your 1/72 vf-4 pilot didn’t survive the print. Looks like he smashed against a wall with too many Gs :)

59AD1AFE-EB5C-4891-AFE3-91CEFCE83D8E.jpeg.9a1ff8c03bc47fb424e98a6028976f82.jpeg
 

maybe I should build a vf-9 crash diorama with thise failed prints. Hehehe

6513F25E-7E6D-41D5-B283-749B1AF94367.jpeg.e73925a62e95773c7ba3c159da0d6e79.jpeg
 

„3D printing is fun“ they said, „buy a 3D printer“ they said.

 

but yeah, printing is getting better, print by print.

865005AC-B231-4988-A9D3-D57D3AFFFB98.jpeg.9551b6d14aa1925a8b430deed864d5bb.jpeg

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7 hours ago, Urashiman said:

@arbit somehow your 1/72 vf-4 pilot didn’t survive the print.

Not a problem my friend. Happens all the time.  This is the easiest fix of all!  Looks like the print failed because your initial supports were not enough to hold him down, so they pulled off. 

This is how I error check a print: 

There is nothing wrong with your printer, because it looks like the rest of him printed well, your supports printed well, and your raft printed well too.  All systems go!

Your build plate is leveled well, unless you see any a deformation in the part that printed well.

And your printer settings are fine, as long as nothing is sticking to your resin vat. 

Minor fails here and there are due to bad orientation or insufficient mini-supports.

I have uploaded my pre-supported file for you. Let me know how that goes.  

https://www.patreon.com/posts/74404704

 

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@pengbuzz Falcon Punch to the face! hahahahaah *smash*

@arbit Thanks a lot! Yeah, the support on the head was too thin. Let me tell you one thing - I won't use the magic support creator in Lychee anymore. Every time is use it, the print fails horribly. Yesterday evening I decided to place the support myself and make sure that everything is supported properly. I decided to print out the VF-9 nose canopy and so on ... the version one I have been working years on, because I just wanted to see how it looks printed out. The walls are super thin. around 0.5mm, but it still managed to print properly. Only when detaching the supports the back broke and the back of the canopy pieces shattered. I glued everything together, just to get a sense of the size the VF-9 has and how much thicker the walls need to be.

vf-9_print_001.jpeg.b142d2011959939c407c944df846a416.jpeg

vf-9_print_002.jpeg.5f1bbbe73d21f2312f2524adaae200f8.jpeg

vf-9_print_003.jpeg.5dd1fdd619eb9c944dc21dc85eb5d8e5.jpeg

I have to go back to the mesh and change wall thickness on everything. I am redoing the nose anyway, so I make sure the wallthickness is increased for that.

It feels so weird and amazing, actually touching the thing that I have been working on for so long, seeing it in the real world. It's just ... wow.

hahaha

But no further printing for me until I fix the wall thickness, so you won't see much prints from me in the next days. :)

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@Urashiman The prints are looking good (when not smashed-in)😁

 

EVERYONE, I saw these photos Friday on navy.mil > resources > photo gallery and I thought of you guys. Working on a U.S. Navy jet and afraid you weathered it too much? Fear no more! Slather on those weathering paints and well-defined panel lines courtesy of a couple of F/A-18Fs. Even the gun port has exhaust on it! The top "Rhino" has been flying a lot of sorties! The bottom Rhino is almost 1/72 scale in the photo😉.- MTF-A-18F.jpg.225084da511166ffc219a8404c0da25e.jpg

235664596_F-A-18FII.jpg.e63b63e5b657a7c8ad7208580c45b27e.jpg

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38 minutes ago, MechTech said:

@Urashiman The prints are looking good (when not smashed-in)😁

 

EVERYONE, I saw these photos Friday on navy.mil > resources > photo gallery and I thought of you guys. Working on a U.S. Navy jet and afraid you weathered it too much? Fear no more! Slather on those weathering paints and well-defined panel lines courtesy of a couple of F/A-18Fs. Even the gun port has exhaust on it! The top "Rhino" has been flying a lot of sorties! The bottom Rhino is almost 1/72 scale in the photo😉.- MTF-A-18F.jpg.225084da511166ffc219a8404c0da25e.jpg

235664596_F-A-18FII.jpg.e63b63e5b657a7c8ad7208580c45b27e.jpg

Now I'll never apologize again for how I weathered mine! Thanks MT!!

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Okay, I could resist. I printed every piece I think was fine, just to check wall thinkness and if it would print good, or not. Behold!

C29D5DDE-4894-4C80-91E4-020E1BA85A18.jpeg.30f4636ff903a289fcab313291b3fdd7.jpeg
504759AF-D124-48C2-BDCB-179B538D8150.jpeg.c13fa6157a906b45a6293fd7b02d8f4f.jpeg

EF7A346B-BCB0-417B-84E2-C72746CEDE68.jpeg.2c4a1417767a70ab5af70a7342ae955f.jpeg

B6EC650C-1502-4CFD-AC9B-3752621E6151.jpeg.2cf5de8935dda6ed8ee894f01e4e9a74.jpeg

Around 18cm long, it is shorter than a 1/72 VF-1. everything seems fine except for the vertical stabilizers. They are way too thin. It bends like paper. So I have to redo them too. The engine bays and so on work great. They have a nice fit and I am mostly satisfied.

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@Urashiman It's looking impressive already with the overall shapes & surface details. Very smooth, too, except for the stabs. There seems to be a bit of warping going on etc, so good luck with the fine-tuning!

 

@MechTech Thanks for the encouragement. I'm doing a Kuwaiti sand hornet, and they get pretty spotty, too.

qAlgYaJ.jpg

Edited by electric indigo
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29 minutes ago, electric indigo said:

@Urashiman It's looking impressive already with the overall shapes & surface details. Very smooth, too, except for the stabs. There seems to be a bit of warping going on etc, so good luck with the fine-tuning!

 

@MechTech Thanks for the encouragement. I'm doing a Kuwaiti sand hornet, and they get pretty spotty, too.

qAlgYaJ.jpg

Yeah, they are paper thin and bend around. Light coming through easily. Have to make them thicker to prevent the warping.

10173BEF-B2C5-40F7-80CB-A0D312608088.jpeg.0353d2f881204cefd84cc8d90146f7a0.jpeg

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@Urashiman the 3D work is amazing!  Congrats.  That is the next big frontier for us to create our own 3D things.  I would love to get into it as soon as I have a bit more time from my job, maybe when I retire 😛  I love designing 3D models digitally, but I hate sanding, so it looks like its gotta be a resin printer for me when I take the dive.  Watching you do your stuff is certainly inspirational.

@MechTech I've never seen a Navy plane in that poor shape, I'd be ashamed to fly it 😛  Yeah, I'm always timid on how far to weather my models, I always error on the less is more side of thing.  I just have a hard time trying to scale the dirt down to look appropriate for 1/72.

Not much to show for my Nerf gun yet, made the mistake of using Rustoleum lacquer spray paints - I was thinking they'd be more durable than my model stuff.  Well the primer takes ages to dry (says 5-7days on plastic) and you'd think their primer would work well with their topcoat, but not so!  After I let the primer dry for 5-6 days, I sprayed on the top coat of black and there's some areas that started to crackle - WTF?!  This only happened if I were mixing the wrong type of paint on not allowing the undercoat dry in enough time but never with the same type of paint.  Oh well, I guess its back to a lot of sanding it down again to re-spray.  The Tamiya TS-90 brown when on buttery smooth (should have used a semi-gloss black from Tamiya instead) - it was the closest match to Brown Bess I could get in North America - who knew this was a UK specific colour and not available outside?

IMG_8385_resize.JPG.16fca1d9cd38c02f99876664d939bf08.JPGIMG_8387_resize.JPG.f8fcfc6ea764e2336e6ca19532aafd2b.JPGIMG_8388_resize.JPG.582ee1a47353fb8c629c5a0c1cd74dd0.JPGIMG_8390_resize.JPG.eb7335785e7828ea57aff5a65d661502.JPGIMG_8391_resize.JPG.1bfc85e676566ee06b3c640415f0a1d6.JPG

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Mr. Santa Claus came early to the model bench....THIS is my reward to myself after a year and a half of building a terrible ship model! BOOM! I can't WAIT! THIS is going to be soooo fun next spring/summer! OR...I might have a problem as I have NO where to put it!...LOOL! 

 

20221211_175613.jpg

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2 minutes ago, derex3592 said:

Mr. Santa Claus came early to the model bench....THIS is my reward to myself after a year and a half of building a terrible ship model! BOOM! I can't WAIT! THIS is going to be soooo fun next spring/summer! OR...I might have a problem as I have NO where to put it!...LOOL! 

 

20221211_175613.jpg

Now you just need 1/350 figures of Steven Seagall and Tommy Lee Jones. :D

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@Urashiman Your prints are looking GREAT! At last you can take those digital files and make them reality!

@electric indigo That will be a COOL looking paint job!

@pengbuzz Your Enterprise is looking good! The water base really does help look like its in action, vs just on a stand.

@wm cheng Sorry about your paint issues. It is looking good now though.

 

As I was working on the Oto Melara gun barrels, the muzzle brakes were bothering me not being drilled all the way through. I was like, "OK, Lord, how can I make this work?" Then I was reminded about the router bits a lot of CNC machines use. It is a half-way ground bit, but it has a sharp point on the tip. So I redid the bit and sure enough, the sharp bit allowed it to cut through the very thin metal without bending the piece and breaking it.

ALL of these photos required being shot through a magnifying glass, otherwise the camera would not pick up on the image.

A first cut through the stock. The stock is K&S 1/16 brass tube. The tube is lathed down in the front and bored-out a little larger. Yes, the metal is now very thin.

1075954250_1-72F73.jpg.f1565cf5ce41b71b59ef8190d5442383.jpg

A finished muzzle brake with an X-Acto knife blade.

1227016567_1-72F74.jpg.e91ad7c13200bb8811a834759ad91a27.jpg

All three muzzle brakes with an X-Acto knife blade and a sewing pin. After the lathe and mill, I still had to poke some of the brass chad out of the holes to clean them out.

1176622915_1-72F75.jpg.643f3c3d2093f0188ea8fc557abd9612.jpg

And the brake on a barrel. It's tough to see, but at least [we] know detailed holes are there now. 32 holes in each brake. I made a fourth back-up since these are so tiny and tough to make. The next step is to make detail cuts into the steel barrels.

1644441124_1-72F76.jpg.d74978f298c15e98ba4a5c65903c6640.jpg

Thanks for checking in guys! - MT

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