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Official 1/100 BANDAI Hi-Metal VF-1S Valkyrie with Strike Parts


Actar

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That's really cheeky. They make all but Roy and the VF-1J available through the web exclusive, and charge a premium price, and then sell the Super Parts separate, again as a web exclusive. With the price to buy and ship these all, you might as well buy the 1/60 Yamato versions if you have the space. This line is hella expensive for what you get. I mean, I still really like these, but looks like I'll be stopping with the VF-1S. The rest are just too darned expensive to afford.

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called it... http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=28836&view=findpost&p=888551... they should have at least included the strike cannon option. these are DYRL valks after all.

Wonder if they'll include a special box with Kakizaki's set :lol:. Do they specifically say they aren't including a strike cannon part? The pictures could just be representing the proper DYRL load out (1As weren't outfitted with strike cannons, after all).

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They don't charge a premium price through Tamashii, they charge MSRP. This doesn't hurt their core audience all that much. It hurts us but since they're not legally able to pander to us anyway it's not big deal from their stand point.

Yeah, good point. I keep forgetting we're not their intended audience. :(

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They don't charge a premium price through Tamashii, they charge MSRP. This doesn't hurt their core audience all that much. It hurts us but since they're not legally able to pander to us anyway it's not big deal from their stand point.

Yeah, good point. I keep forgetting we're not their intended audience. :(

Well more like they can't even if they wanted to.

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soooooooo...

finally able to get some "super" goodness seperately from the VF-1S...

hope someone who already has it could tell me how the super parts hook on...

thinking if getting some super parts for the revoltech Yamaguchi VF-1A(yeah...I actually own the revoltech...)

or should i just rip the super parts off an old 1/100 VF-1 model...

looking forward to get some more new about new releases of this line...so far...its awesome..

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soooooooo...

finally able to get some "super" goodness seperately from the VF-1S...

hope someone who already has it could tell me how the super parts hook on...

thinking if getting some super parts for the revoltech Yamaguchi VF-1A(yeah...I actually own the revoltech...)

or should i just rip the super parts off an old 1/100 VF-1 model...

looking forward to get some more new about new releases of this line...so far...its awesome..

i dont think u can hook it to the revo yama's. the sizes are diff.

100_0572.JPG

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ahh, i think i'll stick with the Yammie 1/60v.II.

it's about as perfect a three-dimensional rendition of the VF-1 as it gets.

it's EXACTLY what i have wanted in a VF-1 replica for a long, LONG time, and,

outside of obtaining a copy of the 1986 BANDAI 1/72 HCM VF-1J,

i'm done and totally finished with PARTS FORMERS and other imperfect physical iterations

of the legendary VF-1 Valkyrie...

Edited by Shaorin
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ahh, i think i'll stick with the Yammie 1/60v.II.

it's about as perfect a three-dimensional rendition of the VF-1 as it gets.

it's EXACTLY what i have wanted in a VF-1 replica for a long, LONG time, and,

outside of obtaining a copy of the 1986 BANDAI 1/72 HCM VF-1J,

i'm done and totally finished with PARTS FORMERS and other imperfect physical iterations

of the legendary VF-1 Valkyrie...

Your loss.

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Your loss.

It really is a loss since the Hi metal has a very awesome proportioned Battroid mode.

Although it partforms, the design is still slightly different..

Sigh. Those Revoltechs were such a disappointment. I was excited when I first saw them, only to be really let down.

I actually like the revoltech!! althought the pegs sticking out the back looks horible, the other parts are pretty good..

so far im still happy with it..

Edited by GXPT2000
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Sigh. Those Revoltechs were such a disappointment. I was excited when I first saw them, only to be really let down.

ahh, i think i'll stick with the Yammie 1/60v.II.

it's about as perfect a three-dimensional rendition of the VF-1 as it gets.

it's EXACTLY what i have wanted in a VF-1 replica for a long, LONG time, and,

outside of obtaining a copy of the 1986 BANDAI 1/72 HCM VF-1J,

i'm done and totally finished with PARTS FORMERS and other imperfect physical iterations

of the legendary VF-1 Valkyrie...

I like all 3 renditions of the VF-1S, they all serve different purposes and have their pros and cons. revo = flimsy/poseable/playable; hi-metal = not perfect trans/innovative transformation/playable; yammie = perfect trans/accurate/large-scale.

Edited by Andy NYK
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I'm confused, why do you think the Yammie is more accurate than the Hi-Metal? I feel the opposite. Floating battroid head that's too high and too short back pack. It's definitely larger scale, and it definitely has tighter seams (as it should with the larger scale), and it has integrated landing gears and heat shield. Both toys are phenomenal (provided your shoulders didn't break off your Yammie).

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I'm confused, why do you think the Yammie is more accurate than the Hi-Metal? I feel the opposite. Floating battroid head that's too high and too short back pack. It's definitely larger scale, and it definitely has tighter seams (as it should with the larger scale), and it has integrated landing gears and heat shield. Both toys are phenomenal (provided your shoulders didn't break off your Yammie).

hi-metal chest/fuselage is stretched out and gappy (the space between the bottom of the inlets and the top of the legs/intake, NOT side to side), feet are too small, hips are too wide, back pack is too high on the back, S type head feels smallish and squished looking.

pick your poison, both the hi-metal and the 1/60 flub things to make the transformation work. Personally, I think the hi-metal makes too many compromises in fighter mode (nose cone gives me ver 1 1/60 flashbacks) and the thick panel lines look pretty awful to me.

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hi-metal chest/fuselage is stretched out and gappy (the space between the bottom of the inlets and the top of the legs/intake, NOT side to side), feet are too small, hips are too wide, back pack is too high on the back, S type head feels smallish and squished looking.

pick your poison, both the hi-metal and the 1/60 flub things to make the transformation work. Personally, I think the hi-metal makes too many compromises in fighter mode (nose cone gives me ver 1 1/60 flashbacks) and the thick panel lines look pretty awful to me.

I agree on all counts. Also, even though it's technically inaccurate, I like the raised head on the 1/60. It makes the battroid look more normal (i.e. like a human) when it's in a neutral stance and it also lets the chin on the -1J/S clear the top of the chest when looking left or right without having a ridiculously long neck.

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I think the V2's floating heads and leg shape actually make battroid look a bit more feminine. It looks stockier with the head in the correct position. I prefer the 1/48's battroid to the 1/60's even though the 1/60 does do a couple things a bit better.

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I think the V2's floating heads and leg shape actually make battroid look a bit more feminine. It looks stockier with the head in the correct position. I prefer the 1/48's battroid to the 1/60's even though the 1/60 does do a couple things a bit better.

Sadly those are the things that people like about V2, atleast it works for me. The contour of the entire leg is exactly what I love about V2. I don't recall any bulky lower leg and enlarged knee cap from lineart as seen on 1/48.

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Nice pics Keiichi!

The big draw of the HiMetal for me (aside from its great looks in all 3 modes and articulation) is definitely Toynami's Regult figure. Just thinking of all the cool battle scenes one can set up with a Hi Metal and a few Toyami's Regults made this thing a must have for me.

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Nice pics Keiichi!

The big draw of the HiMetal for me (aside from its great looks in all 3 modes and articulation) is definitely Toynami's Regult figure. Just thinking of all the cool battle scenes one can set up with a Hi Metal and a few Toyami's Regults made this thing a must have for me.

Thanks! The Regult was a major reason behind my purchase of the Hi-Metal as well, but it also worked the other way around! I'd known about the Regult, and thought it looked great, but I didn't have anything in scale with it so I passed on getting one. Not a big fan of the VF-1J, so when the Hi-Metal of that was released, I wasn't interested. The news of the VF-1S with Strike parts, however, really caught my attention and when it was finally released I kept waffling about whether or not to get it. Then I remembered, the 1/100 Toynami Regult! That instantly sealed the deal for me so I ordered the Hi-Metal and a Regult the same day :lol: . Just in the nick of time too, as the regular Regult appears to be pretty much sold out everywhere now.

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erratum:

the ball joint on the feet is plastic, so its plastic to plastic connection but still is very loose, putting a very minimal amount of super glue fixes the looseness just be wary of the hazing effect, so i suggest just a itsy bitsy drop on the canal of the balljoint.

Can someone show me exactly where and how I should apply the super glue to the ball joint? I'd hate to apply the glue only to have it cease up on me. Also, has anyone come up with another solution to this problem? It really is a nice toy, but I can't seem to get the front toe to stay put.

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Can someone show me exactly where and how I should apply the super glue to the ball joint? I'd hate to apply the glue only to have it cease up on me. Also, has anyone come up with another solution to this problem? It really is a nice toy, but I can't seem to get the front toe to stay put.

You basically need to brush over the entire surface of the ball to create mass so the ball will become larger and hence create tightness and friction when the ball pops into the socket for motion again. Do it progressivelly until you have created the tightness that you wanted.

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Just having some fun on an strangely snowy day here in Nevada. Starting to get the hang of using this camera properly, discovered that setting the ISO manually is often much better than letting the camera adjust it automatically.

Excellent photos! I think the Hi-Metal is the most photo-friendly VF-1 toy to date with its detail and small easy-to-shoot size. Between being so photogenic and so much fun to transform and pose this VF-1 has gotten far, far more play time than any of the other versions I've owned. I don't regret selling off my Yamato VF-1 toys for a second.

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My VF-1J's backpack is floppy like an old v.1 Yammie. Am I transforming it wrong? And how do they "fix" this on the VF-1S so that the backpack remains upright?

Pete

The VF-1S's backpack is a lot much tighter than the 1J's, that's why it manages to hold the added weight of the boosters upright when in battroid mode.

My 1J's backpack wasn't very tight either but I found a way to make it hold its position a little better : I added some superglue to the hinged panel on the back to make it stiffer (the one on the back that opens to allow the head to come up from fighter to battroid) as I believe it was very loose and pushed the backpack to drop more. Then I put the backpack in place and push it downwards from the top, so the double hinged articulation kind of locks down.

Edited by Frogze
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