Folka Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 (edited) This is a question in general for any V2 valks, but i noticed a crack on one of the hinges that hold the chest and fuselage together and a slight stress mark on the other hinge. I've glued them but has anyone else had that problem? I guess i'm just applying too much force since its kinda difficult to pull the fuselage out and in. Hm well the hinges are the ones that hold the metal piece where the fuselage slides on. Basically the ones next to the head on the left and right side. I'm not that worried about it completely breaking since the plastic seems fairly thick. Maybe i'm just doing something wrong or something. Well its ok now, and its not stopping me from transforming or getting more VFs, but its just something I wanted to get out there. Edited March 16, 2009 by Folka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geepogi Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 has there been any reports of breakages for the rereleased roy 1S? got mine only this year as there was no more stocks last year. anyway, the store owner said it was already a rerelease. thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 has there been any reports of breakages for the rereleased roy 1S? got mine only this year as there was no more stocks last year. anyway, the store owner said it was already a rerelease. thanks! There was at least 1 reported breakage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geepogi Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 awww shucks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Happy to report that all of my out of the box V2 1/60 VF-1, which is 6pcs (1 x VF-1J Hik, 2 x VF-1S Fok, 1x VF-A Hik & 1 x VF-1D) are still all fine, with no sign of cracks at all. Even gave my pre-production Roy to my son and he's really abused it, but the shoulders are still fine. He did managed to snap off the nose hatch though......LOL! And yes, as I previously mentioned, Yamato are planning to change to a smaller diameter shoulder pin, which should solve the problem. Unfortunately, it was too late to implement this as a running change for the VF-1D, but I've been told it will be implemented starting from the next release, which IIRC is the VF-1S DYRL Max. Anyway, seems like since Yamato tightened up assembly line QC after the initial problem with the first run VF-1S Focker, reports of breakages have been way, way down. Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valhary Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 thanks graham i glad that know that because i already preorder my max vf 1s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javabean Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 (edited) Good to know the new shoulder pin will start on next 1S Max as we still hv more vf-1 coming soon. Is it becos of these changes that we just heard the 1S Max will delay till April? Edited March 17, 2009 by Javabean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.chogokin Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 So the 1D is in the "at risk" bracket... The arms at the shoulder ball joints are so tight to pose on mine, I have to hold the hinge in a way of counter pressure so the hinge will not break, everytime I move the arms. And worse of all, the solution to fix is just to loosen the arms. But the parts that covered the screws are glued - AGAIN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 So the 1D is in the "at risk" bracket... The arms at the shoulder ball joints are so tight to pose on mine, I have to hold the hinge in a way of counter pressure so the hinge will not break, everytime I move the arms. And worse of all, the solution to fix is just to loosen the arms. But the parts that covered the screws are glued - AGAIN! the shoulder armor is very easy to remove even if it's glued together... the tabs that keep it in place are very shallow... just make sure to lift up both side simultaneously, then slide it out... actually, the two parts that comprise the shoulder armor are very weakly glued together, if you put too much force the two parts will come apart. hope this helps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logos Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Yeah just lift the sides a little bit and pull. It will be a little tricky to do on your first one but after that it will be easy. I heard the glue snapping on my VF-1S Roy when I did it the first time and it was still fine. Even if the glue breaks you can fix it easily with some model glue. Do it just to give yourself some piece of mind if anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingaio Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 And yes, as I previously mentioned, Yamato are planning to change to a smaller diameter shoulder pin, which should solve the problem. Unfortunately, it was too late to implement this as a running change for the VF-1D, but I've been told it will be implemented starting from the next release, which IIRC is the VF-1S DYRL Max. Anyway, seems like since Yamato tightened up assembly line QC after the initial problem with the first run VF-1S Focker, reports of breakages have been way, way down. Graham Just checked HLJ and they have the Max VF-1As as coming out before the Max VF-1S. Did I miss something? In any case, I hope they all have the shoulder pin fix--I might actually buy one of these new 1/60s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eriku Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Yeah, I'm seriously considering giving this line another try with the Max TV 1A. The recently released 1/48 version has me salivating for one, but my pockets aren't deep enough for one of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.chogokin Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 (edited) the shoulder armor is very easy to remove even if it's glued together... the tabs that keep it in place are very shallow... just make sure to lift up both side simultaneously, then slide it out... actually, the two parts that comprise the shoulder armor are very weakly glued together, if you put too much force the two parts will come apart. hope this helps... Thank you so much. I did the fix and the arms poses aren't scary and a chore to do now. Still they shouldn't glue them at all. Hey, did you all noticed the heavy wear on the fasteners? It's like they used really cheaply made screws or they were in a real hurry when putting them on. All of mine are like that. Edited March 18, 2009 by mr.chogokin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruskiiVFaussie Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Finally getting around to Voting since i got my 1st v.2 a month go She is Perfect! One thing i notice more now with the differences between the 1/48 and 1/60... 1/60 wins for the arms higher up, the 1/48 arms in fighter mode stick out something shocking now! But that's all. i still love and admire both sculpts. Won't be selling off my 1/48s! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logos Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Thank you so much. I did the fix and the arms poses aren't scary and a chore to do now. Still they shouldn't glue them at all. Hey, did you all noticed the heavy wear on the fasteners? It's like they used really cheaply made screws or they were in a real hurry when putting them on. All of mine are like that. What do you mean by heavy wear of the fasteners? Do you mean that the heads of the screws are starting to strip? If so then yes they tightened the screws way to much on yours as I find that the screws don't have to be tightened much at all. As soon as I feel resistance (or quarter/half turn past that) in the screw driver I stop. I find that is usually more than enough torque to keep the shoulders loose and still be able to hold a pose. Note: I find that a Philips 1 or 1-1? screw driver works the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.chogokin Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 What do you mean by heavy wear of the fasteners? Do you mean that the heads of the screws are starting to strip? If so then yes they tightened the screws way to much on yours as I find that the screws don't have to be tightened much at all. As soon as I feel resistance (or quarter/half turn past that) in the screw driver I stop. I find that is usually more than enough torque to keep the shoulders loose and still be able to hold a pose. Note: I find that a Philips 1 or 1-1? screw driver works the best. Yeah, the screws are starting to strip and it isn't just the ones on the shoulders, but everywhere! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logos Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 (edited) Yeah, the screws are starting to strip and it isn't just the ones on the shoulders, but everywhere! They are soft metal screws so that will happen. Are you using the appropriate sized phillips like I mentioned? Edit: Added a pic for reference. Edited March 18, 2009 by logos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eriku Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Heh, that's exactly the same screwdriver I used on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logos Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Cheap computer kit special! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.chogokin Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 They are soft metal screws so that will happen. Are you using the appropriate sized phillips like I mentioned? Edit: Added a pic for reference. Of course I did. The only places I did put the screwdriver to are to loosen the 4 pieces on the back shoulders. What I meant is, the screws with the worn tops are like that fresh out of box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Of course I did. The only places I did put the screwdriver to are to loosen the 4 pieces on the back shoulders. What I meant is, the screws with the worn tops are like that fresh out of box. LOL... maybe he thought you were using something like this : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.chogokin Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 LOL... maybe he thought you were using something like this : LOL! that's like skeet shooting with the grand cannon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Sigh. Left hinge cracked all the way through. Was FLAWLESS, not even a stress crack, last time. And the right one's got a slight stress mark now. Theory: it's time, not transformations. I've only transformed mine like 6 times---once a month to change poses. It's sat for a few weeks since the last transformation. And trust me, nobody here is slower, more paranoid, or more careful than me when transforming a V2 VF-1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Sigh. Left hinge cracked all the way through. Was FLAWLESS, not even a stress crack, last time. And the right one's got a slight stress mark now. Theory: it's time, not transformations. I've only transformed mine like 6 times---once a month to change poses. It's sat for a few weeks since the last transformation. And trust me, nobody here is slower, more paranoid, or more careful than me when transforming a V2 VF-1. Damn, that's not good at all. I hope the smaller diameter pin kills this problem once and for all(though I'd prefer a complete redesign designed to decimate the problem). Is your's the 1S Roy from last summer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Yup. I'm wondering if I should wait a while before asking for a replacement from Overdrive, so I can hopefully get a "new smaller pin" shoulder. No point replacing it with the original design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alain Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 My thoughts exactly...I should wait for the new design replacement arms if ever I decide to purchase the parts. as for the moment Im still ok with it as long as it doesnt shear off completely... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 has anybody gotten a replacement that cracked too or has stress marks/micro cracks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 I remember one member getting replacements that were cracked when they arrived. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Yup. I'm wondering if I should wait a while before asking for a replacement from Overdrive, so I can hopefully get a "new smaller pin" shoulder. No point replacing it with the original design.That's what I'm planning to do too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilSpex Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 (edited) I got 2 of the new 1/60s and they`re both perfect in every way. Edited March 22, 2009 by MilSpex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangard Ace Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Well my Focker's left shoulder just cracked. It's been sitting in it's box since I first bought it(pre-ordered from Toy-wave) opened and inspected twice, transformed twice. Felt the urge to check it again tonight and lo and behold a crack. Loverly. Made me open all the other 1/60v2's I've got. Everything else is fine. Now to take pictures and get Overdrive to order me up a replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 DA---let us know if your replacement hinge has a smaller-diameter pin in it. PS--do you need to take pics? I thought about it, but there's nowhere to attach them on Overdrive's "Macross parts request form". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostkiller Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 (edited) DA---let us know if your replacement hinge has a smaller-diameter pin in it. PS--do you need to take pics? I thought about it, but there's nowhere to attach them on Overdrive's "Macross parts request form". no pics required just request.... the funny thing with my repalcement parts is that they used a short spin on one of the arm when I checked it So I had to to replace the spin myself ( half attached shoulder.... , what the Hell ) So after time my fear does come true on this issue the conclusion is so simple : all production without revised shoulder design will break..... yamatoed again....... Edited March 23, 2009 by Ghostkiller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkReaper Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 I just found a large crack on the left shoulder of my Roy so I will have to get that replaced. So whats the general concensus? Replace it now or wait a bit longer? Btw how do you replace the shoulders anyway? Do you have to push out a pin to get them in or is it just some screws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostkiller Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 I just found a large crack on the left shoulder of my Roy so I will have to get that replaced. So whats the general concensus? Replace it now or wait a bit longer? Btw how do you replace the shoulders anyway? Do you have to push out a pin to get them in or is it just some screws? U should wait but nothing will garanty you get the proper new redesign shoulder.... 3 screws to open the chest and and release the wings : you need to take out the chest and the wings and screw the new arms in place it is pretty easy the pin should not be touched Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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