nightmareB4macross

Maybe it the large beast of a woman from the first "Deuce Bigalow, Male Gigolo" movie.

conversion kit would be the armor + parts required to convert a regular vf such as the wings, head, possibly the cockpit. 348518[/snapback] Your best bet would be a VF-1J reissue or a good ol' Jetfire. Either way this kit will work for both.

We all want it in 1/48, but I know there are people out there that would still love to have it in 1/55. The VE-1 ElintSeeker kit will entail as follows: 1. T-Connection Bridge from Radome to Boosters 2. Right Booster Antenna Node 3. Left Booster Antenna Node 4. Radome 5. Right Booster Left Half 6. Right Booster Right Half 7. Right Booster Tip 8. Right Booster Thruster Bell 9. Left Booster Left Half 10. Left Booster Right Half 11. Left Booster Tip 12. Left Booster Thruster Bell 13. Right Arm Electronic Equipment Left Half 14. Right Arm Electronic Equipment Right Half 15. Right Arm Electronic Equipment Arm Connection Point (I have to check is this is not part of the right or left half of this equipment. 16. Right Arm Electronic Equipment Rear Assembly 17. Head Rear Cover 18. Head Right Half 19. Head Left Half 20. Head Eye Sensor 21. Head To Neck Connector (located inside the head) 22. Neck To Shoulder Connector (this will ease swap of heads) 23. Right Leg Outer Fender 24. Left Leg Outer Fender 25. Top Right Leg Fender 26. Top Left Leg Fender 27. Right Leg Clip 28. Left Leg Clip 29-39 Left Arm Radar Attachment and Equipment (not sure of all the names of the pieces included here, but there are eleven in all). 40. Backpack 41. Right Wing 42. Left Wing 43. Cockpit Dual Seats 44. Heatshield I will be dismantling my Elint and Armour (also the pieces I hope to receive soon) to ensure the number of pieces. The list shown above is merely from memory. Let's just hope my memory still serves me well....

The blue Nikick and the OlsonII are the most expensive and difficult to obtain items. Once in a blue moon you'll see one, but usually at no less than $275.00 to start. I have the OlsonII, but would love to have a blue Nikick. Too bad there was never a Mass Production Type made in the same scale as these. They were only available in 1/60. Oh well, guess I'm just gonna have to make it myself.

Not at all. The kit will be straight forward just like the original.

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2.0 , to be exact.

Beautiful and stunning all rolled into one.

Try using glass paints on the back of the head visor. You can find it at any arts and crafts store.

You mean DeMille! lol... Deville is Cruella's last name. 346262[/snapback] DOH!

Hi pics Nick. Sorry I missed out this weekend, but rest assured my Elint is photogenic, and ready for its closeup.....Mr. Deville.

Muffed up??? The orguss is perfect for my next projects, Jotun and Orguss Mass Production Unit. Thanks D!

AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Try not to hanle it too much, it takes about seven days for the paint to settle perfectly onto the surface. ****Now I have to wipe the drool off my keyboard****

I couldn't agree more.

Ooh, looks nice. Of course, being such an original car, I imagine you'll not want to alter it. But if it were a more "expendable" car...the engine bay on those is quite accomodating--if one wanted to get really wild with it, you could shoehorn a 460 in that sucker! I've always been of the mindset for "optimizing for the twisties" myself, though... 344976[/snapback] I would much rather buy a 69 Torino and stuff a 427 Hi-Rise Interceptor.

I would. For me it's more of a safety and controlled environment issue.

Go to Sputnik24/7. Really cool site, plus quite a few other anime videos.

I never had to. I would mask off areas that I want in different colors. But this is something I'll have to try.

Try going to a hardware store and find a suitable "O" ring. The one you are looking for is very small and black. You can usually find them in the plumbing section. Good luck, and happy hunting.

I haven't tried that, I usually remove the paint, then use a wool pad to clean and sand, then clean them off completely, then spray. The reason I do this is to make sure I have no unwanted raised surfaces from the previous applied paint or prints.

Also there is slow-curing and quick curing types, as well as, gels.

my turn, my turn....yoplait yogurt, le french fry english please.

Dish soap is fine, or you may want to try Scalecoat (paint remover for plastic).

I think using Pumpkin Orange is an excellent choice. Buttercream is good if your going for the Yamato colors, but by my preferance I'd go with the Satin Almond. NOTE: YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SPRAY THE COLOR ON THICK, LIGHT COATS WILL DO JUST FINE.

Don't mean to side track the thread, but this is going to be my newest acquisition. I will take possesion of this car by Friday. 1966 Ford Fairlane GT It is has a K-Code 289 Hipo, Untouched. Runs Great. C-4 Automatic Trans. 3.11 Gears. Hi-Performance Suspension. New Dual Exaust. New All Around Disc Brakes. White with red interior. Car needs nothing. I am so excited about this car. I have owned one before, but this is the elusive K-code GT, with the full options package!!! Drrrrrroooooooolllll *SLURP*.