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maxwinamp

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  1. It's being a LOOONG time since I built any Macross. Just completed this, I have to trim off the gold from the decal. Airbrushed the blue and reapply the gold trim. The rest: http://www.outthere.info/VF-1A/page1.htm
  2. Hi, I am the dude that did the video tutorial I have been using Tamiya Spray Can for my colours all the time and only do the top coat using Gunze Spray Can as I find Gunze coatings are the toughest of the lot. Here's another write up for glossing and to see the various layers: http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=5033 And the example: http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthrea...5077&page=2 While doing the mist coat, I just generally spray at a distance so that the paint sparesly lands on the kit. After that the wet coat is spray at a closer distance as shown in the video. Hope the above helps. Regards Max
  3. This was held on 31st March 2007 at a local model shop. Enjoy the pics http://www.outthere.info/macross_rev07/page1.htm http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthrea...1872&page=4
  4. The recast have to clean up the undercut at the inside of the booster. I gave out grinding them as its too much to grind off. And the main problem is the connecting point from the main booster to the main body with a 0.8cm gap. I have to extend and scratch build the parts to join them. Other than that.. the usual rods to secure the heavy pieces.
  5. Finally done, Hoobyfan recaset of the Yellow Submarine Resin Kit Mixture of preshading, oil filtering and oil wash so that the surface of the battleship have different tone of green, blue, yellow and white. Subtle and blended in. Btw, kit is about 1kg+ Enjoy the pics. The rest of the pics below: http://www.outthere.info/SDF-1_BS/comp/page1.htm (28 Pics!)
  6. I've got the same idea as well.. hmm.. you could also use the 1/272 Ground/Pilot Crew Set
  7. Thanks guys for the compliments Maxtype, the canopy is hinge by a copper wire that was secured by drilling a tiny hole and super glued at the black part (DO NOT drill THROUGH the canopy). And for the cockpit itself.. the copper wire was slotted into a small hole at the top in between the two 'round thingy' at the back of the seat.
  8. Just completed Enjoy! The rest of the pics... Home page
  9. The thickness is 0.2mm from Evergreen Styrene.
  10. I didnt measure the ratio, I just mix it till it looks like dirty water and then add more fluid as you go along. (It evaporates)
  11. I am faster than I thought... tonight's update It's Panel Line Time I mix Tamiya Enamel Semi Gloss Black with Zippo Lighter fluid S$3.60. (as I do not have good experience with enamel wash as it always cracks the plastic...) Anyway.. the lighter fluid works great and easy to work with Have not panel lined. Apply the lighter fluid wash. Wipe off with tissue soak with lighter fluid. The rest of the lovely panel lines
  12. Painted the cockpit Add nose weight to balance the head of the plane with the rest of the body. The 'weight' is some old book shelves support superglued to the inside of the nose. Nicely balance on a 2.5mm square rod. Preshaded with brown and airbrushed the rest of the colours. Mr Colour 'Orange' and 'Randome' (No. 318) Just finish decalling.... stay tuned..
  13. Second Hasegawa Macross kit to attempt Cockpit with no side details... Cut out some small thin bits of styrene for the side panel details and with the PE control handles. More Progress pics below http://www.outthere.info/VF-1D/VF-1D.htm
  14. The armour is Mr Colour Laquere No.72 "Intermediate Blue"
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