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Everything posted by Urashiman

  1. This one is on my backlog for over 10 years now. I can't even remember when I bought it. Must have been 2004 - 2005 ish. Now I am finally building it. My first Hasegawa Valk with super packs. The interesting thing: the kit quality is really good. I was building a VF-1A in Kakizaki colors some days ago and the parts had problems with fitting and gaps. It could be that the mold hasegawa uses slowly is degrading. This VE-1 is fitting together really good, but still it needs some sanding here and there as well as gap filling.
  2. Yeah, this is due to the orthographic view in sketchup and the perspective view in real life. Also keep in mind that 3D printing also has errors. It often isn't as acurate as though giving you printing errors of up to 1mm per 10cm, especially with the cheap materials. For prototyping the white and elastic stuff is okay, but if you want a final build, you should choose the more expensive materials. Nevertheless, great work Xigfrid!
  3. Awesome work Xigfrid! Congratulations!
  4. Maybe when the FF7 Remake gets released ...
  5. yeah, but the details would be really bad...
  6. Nice - reminds me of that Shark Attack Cartoon from the 80s/90s
  7. Oh, nice to hear that people still use my stuff. Yeah, the VF-9 is really small, even smaller than the VF-1. Doing it in 1/48 would be better, so the fine structures don't break so fast. Printing in the normal "Strong and flexible" might end up in fragile parts ... You are talking about the Frosted Ultra Detail? I've used that once for a H0 (1:87) Tram I was printing. It is still up on shapeways I think. Actually I had the FUD in mind while designing the VF-9 High Detail model. I also had a High Detail VF-14 on my to do list, but there just isn't enough time. I probably have to take a sabbatical or something to catch up on all my crazy projects.
  8. I've been working on something similar some time ago. After fixing my Papercraft VF-9 I thought about doing a high detailed model in 3D to send to Shapeways and have it printed. I had the HQ wings done and was working to get the mainframe done, but you know - I don't have much time, so this ended up in development hell. Maybe I have to take it up again. My idea was to have it in fighter mode in 1/72 to stand with my Hasegawa models. @Xigfrid: I am thrilled to see your model printed and in action.
  9. Yeah, I just snapped it together. Going to airbrush this thing soon and panel lining will happen too. No worries and ... I have a giant backlog myself with kits that need building since 1999 ...
  10. Awesome - the decal sheet looks nice. I am going to use this if you don't mind.
  11. finally got some new kits for my collection. Snapped together the VF-171 already
  12. Hello everyone, Time for a short review on the Bandai VF-171 Nightmare Plus kit from Bandai. This is a non-scale mini snap kit. I haven't seen many people talking about this thing here, so I'd like to give my impressions on the mini kit. List price at HLJ is 500¥, I got it for 425¥ when I ordered it. The box size is 8.5cm x 15.1cm x 3.8cm. The model, when build, is 8.5cm in lenght and has a wingspan of 7.5cm. The manual is printed into the box, but easily readible. The plastic casting was in a plastic bag as usual. For the size of the kit, the detail is nice and fine. There aren't much parts in this kits, but that is okay. Some of the parts are really small, which I will show in another picture. The decals are precutted self adhering stickers like in the 1/100 scale Macross Frontier model kits. As you can see the sickers are really small, so handling them might be tricky. Sorry for the bad quality pic, but here you can see that the main body is snapping together nicely, leaving no gap. My experience from other Bandai kits (1/100 VF-25, 1/100 VF-2SS, 1/144 VF-17, VF-11 MAXL, VF-11B/C, VF-19 KAI, Gundam RX-78 and Gundam RX-78-2) is, that there will be some gaps here and there which will require glueing or filling paste. There is a relatively large gap infront of the nose. Using glue can fix this easily. Here is one of the extremely small parts, just to give an example. Done - Build time with taking pictures inbetween is ~15 minutes. I didn't attach the stickers yet as I want to airbrush that thing properly. The calculated scale for this small kit is 1/184. Conclusion: A nice little addition to my Macross Mecha collection. There isn't much love for the VF-171 in form of model kits, so this small kit makes me happy that I can have it in my shelf. If needed this kit could be painted in Macross Frontier colors. As far as I know there wasn't much change on the VF-171 design between Frontier and Delta. The kit isn't having much gaps that need filling. For the size the details are good, better than on the old Macross 7 1/144 kits. If you have sausage fingers like me, you will probably have trouble to handle the small parts, but nothing that tweezers couldn't handle. I hope this will help to get an impression on this little gem. If you have any question regarding this kit, please let me know.
  13. PCSX2 with any bios would work. Remember that you need to have a decent powered PC to run it on the Emulator. I played it in 3x resolution on emulator with i7 6700k@ 4.0GHz and a MSI GTX 1060 OC at a total stable framerate, no crashing issues or other annoyances. I have the original disc and ripped it to run from a SSD. Works faster with the loading times, but also works good from an USB3.0 external HDD. Loading from the original disc can lead to some disc skipping errors, which leads/can lead to crashes, so I highly recommend ripping it to HDD or SSD before playing. Or, as everyone else said, get a modded ps2. I still have my original one with a stealth mod chip and it is working good. ...but that game with a better resolution on emulator looks so good - sometimes I think it looks better than Macross 30 because the design is really clean.
  14. Awesome - so you are going with the arduino board now? This should make things much easier.
  15. suggest to hasegawa what they should do https://www.hasegawausa.com/suggest-a-model.html
  16. Just got my VF-31a payment notice from HLJ, too. Shipping should start the next days.
  17. Hehe, I like the blue and red LEDs on the wings. Want to make them blink like on real planes? Edit: And yes - Magnet should be the best to accomplish this. My Warhammer player buddies do this with their tanks to change equipment. If you get high power magnets this will work good.
  18. Sweet 7 pound baby jesus!
  19. Okay, I think I got it now. I'll send you the explaination via PN.
  20. okay, I modifies your circuit, but I am not sure if this will work correctly as I don't know how your arduino programming goes.
  21. Haha okay, well, I'll create the circuit plan for you using the ICs I have in mind and post it here when I am at home. Can you post a picture of how you plan to install the side switches?
  22. Well, there are several different types of SMD switches. Either way, you could easily invert a signal for switches when using the arduino(pseudocode - while switch = 0 do nothing, While switch = 1 do something). If you want to use the switches you got and do a hardware change, the circuit would need a to have simple NOT IC added. IC 7404 can do that. Anyway. I created the logic circuit below which is giving you the the behavior need. You would need one RS-flipflop IC (with 4 RS units) one AND IC (with at least 2 AND circuits), one OR IC (with at least one OR circuit) and two electrical switches. The ICs will do the "controlling" while the electrical switches will be used to control a commutator. I also attached a simple SMD switch that can be used. They could be installed to the moving block like in the picture. No need to use an expensive Arduino. The price of the electrical components should be ~5€ without shipping.
  23. I might've got an idea how to solve your problem, but first of all I need some information. Can you please provide the following? Voltage and maximum power surge of the electric motor power source you are going to use Also I would need to know how the phases go, I thought something like this is what you try to achieve: Push Main switch. Motor starts, pushing the wings out. Wings (or something on them) will push a switch. switch will turn off the motor. Circuit is idle. Push Main switch. Motor starts, going backwards, pulling the wings in. Wings (or something on them) will push another switch. switch will turn off the motor. Circuit is idle. To accomplish this you need a different type of switch (basically SMD switches will work). I could design a small toggle switch flip flop circuit that will do the job, but you would need to stack up on electronic components.
  24. Ordered a VF-31A too... great plane! Sadly wasn't able to order the last time it was available, not going to happen this time. Muhahahaha!
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