Jump to content

Countdown until the Shogakukun Macross Package Art Collection Book is released! 
image.png.ceb942b112c95453f3925263e118f68b.png

The countdown has finished!

Urashiman

Members
  • Posts

    405
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Urashiman

  1. @wm cheng thanks a lot! Yeah… it need a lot of sanding and resin printer are awesome! I think I call it a day. Let‘s call this one „Prototype 01“.
  2. Yeah, they are paper thin and bend around. Light coming through easily. Have to make them thicker to prevent the warping.
  3. Okay, I could resist. I printed every piece I think was fine, just to check wall thinkness and if it would print good, or not. Behold! Around 18cm long, it is shorter than a 1/72 VF-1. everything seems fine except for the vertical stabilizers. They are way too thin. It bends like paper. So I have to redo them too. The engine bays and so on work great. They have a nice fit and I am mostly satisfied.
  4. Hey everyone! For my next project I need a way better scan of hasegawas 2009 VF-1A Minmay special. I got this off 1999.co.jp, but it is rather rough. Can anyone help me out please?
  5. that is a large box. The VF-4 box was big as well.
  6. @pengbuzz Falcon Punch to the face! hahahahaah *smash* @arbit Thanks a lot! Yeah, the support on the head was too thin. Let me tell you one thing - I won't use the magic support creator in Lychee anymore. Every time is use it, the print fails horribly. Yesterday evening I decided to place the support myself and make sure that everything is supported properly. I decided to print out the VF-9 nose canopy and so on ... the version one I have been working years on, because I just wanted to see how it looks printed out. The walls are super thin. around 0.5mm, but it still managed to print properly. Only when detaching the supports the back broke and the back of the canopy pieces shattered. I glued everything together, just to get a sense of the size the VF-9 has and how much thicker the walls need to be. I have to go back to the mesh and change wall thickness on everything. I am redoing the nose anyway, so I make sure the wallthickness is increased for that. It feels so weird and amazing, actually touching the thing that I have been working on for so long, seeing it in the real world. It's just ... wow. hahaha But no further printing for me until I fix the wall thickness, so you won't see much prints from me in the next days.
  7. Nah ... I am good. Got a set of 2009 Minmay Macross the First water slide decals to use with that VF-1
  8. @arbit somehow your 1/72 vf-4 pilot didn’t survive the print. Looks like he smashed against a wall with too many Gs maybe I should build a vf-9 crash diorama with thise failed prints. Hehehe „3D printing is fun“ they said, „buy a 3D printer“ they said. but yeah, printing is getting better, print by print.
  9. Ahahaha! Oh man - I do that quick strip with masking tape as well, just to check how far I can break the kit down into building groups for better airbrushing and decal applying And yes - putting lights into your kits is a churning task.... so many kits ended up in the trash.
  10. VF-27 would be awesome! @KOG Water Dragon A YF-30 wouldn't be that far off, as they could reuse parts of the VF-31 Kairos. Speaking of which ... A VF-31AX would be possible, as there is only little re-tooling needed.
  11. @wm cheng Oooooh! Awesome Weyland-Yutani M41A pulse rifle to the rescue! Btw: I like the masking tape strips on your cutting mat. That is exactly how my workbench tends to look like as well. Masking tape sticking everywhere hahaha.
  12. The calibration thing is, because after printing, I take apart the lift base and clean out the resin from every piece. So I have to level the lift base again. I do this to save isopropanol, an manually clean that thing. I carefully clean every piece after every print. Maybe I am crazy. Well, not maybe. I am definately crazy. Everything else is factory settings.
  13. Basically what @arbit says. PLUS: 3D Printing is a super manual task and you have to look at so many different things. It feels like operating my 80s 24 needle printer. You print one page, it goes bad and you have to calibrate and clean out the printing heads and and and and and ... The technology for the large audience isn't too fool proof, as it is with general laser or ink jet printers nowadays. A lot of tweaking is needed to get proper results. It also depends on what kind of printer you have. Using an FDM printer properly is the easiest way of 3D printing and has a better success rate in the beginning than SLA printers. When it comes to useability and maintenance, an FDM printer is super easy to use. There is no smelly resin that you'll get hyper allergetic to (or even worse get cancer), but PLA or ABS filament which is heated up. An 1KG roll is 12-20€ each and will last depending on how much you print. The fun part about FDM is, that you have less waste and you need less other tools. The SLA printers on the other hand are rather complex to handle. Use gloves all the time, setup an UV light to cure your print. Cleaning your print from left over resin. Cleaning out the resin bay, calibrating the printer all the time. You need much more stuff to operate it. e.g.: - Gloves - Resin filters - Isopropanol Alcohol - Lot's of kitchenroll/paper towels - Face masks While the resin price is relatively stable and cheap, you have to invest in the above disposables as well, making it less cheap to print one model.
  14. An Anycubic Photon Mono 4K for a whopping 169€ There was a sale prior to the black friday deals, which was actually cheaper than the black friday deals.
  15. That is valuable information. I will try that on my next print
  16. Did some testprints on the VF-9 and VF-1P. Except for two parts on the VF-9 (the front gear box part and the front gear) everything else failed. It is getting twisted and warped and seems that it detached from the supporting struts. The panel lines turned out well, so they have a good size. I think I have two main issues: 1. Wall thickness. I need do make the walls a bit thicker. 2. Not enough 3D printing experience. I might need more supporting struts and better strut placement. What I found really interesting is, how small the VF-9 parts are. The VF-9 is really a small plane. The canopy and cockpit space are almost as big as on the VF-1P, but the rest is just super small. I like how the VF-1P nose looks. Even if the print failed, it still looks nice. I will use these fails to test color on them and which primer to use.
  17. Got something new to produce stuff for my workbench.
  18. Hmm .... release date moved from November 2022 to December 2022 on HLJ ...
  19. Check the video posted by @no3Ljm a bit earlier. It'll give you a good impression. The Roy Fokker version is just a decal swap variant. The Hikaru version has the A and S head, so maybe the fokker version just comes sans the A head. @pengbuzz We need to setup a pengbuzz charity paypal account, so people can get you money for hobby kits
  20. This is an interesting watch. And man ... look at those gaps!
  21. That is the 1/48 Hasegawa VF-1 in the bottom. The 1/72 Hasegawa VF-1 looks a bit different. Less bulky etc.
  22. Hahaha - that would have been great! There is no way you ever have enough clamps! So, I was priming that RX-78 yesterday evening with a rattle spray can primer from Citadel. Corax White! I will start to brush paint it with acrylics today evening. I am way too lazy to sand all those seams. I tried to sand them, but they are super big. One probably can make a good model from that kit, but I don't care. hahahaha. It is not a MG RX-78, and I want to use my "motivation" to continue on that F-5B I still have unfinished on my bench. Edit: Some F-14 preshading happened today, and I love my new airbrush. No more "burping" and uncontrolled splattering. It was a good idea to get new ones.
×
×
  • Create New...