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Urashiman

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Everything posted by Urashiman

  1. Hey! good job! Panel lines are a PITA. How do you carve them? I manually cut them by hand in 3DS Max.
  2. haha - yeah. That is an issue as well. Atm I have no display space at all. So my finished kits are in the boxes right next to the stash of unbuild kits. There will be some space in the future though. Need to get that wall fixed first.
  3. oh man ... I knew the box will be huge, but ... it is frikken huge :S Here - a comparision to a "normal box". A VF-1A/J/S kit. It will rest now in my stash for all eternity - until I have some time to touch it, together with all the other kits I have. I feel like a small sized hobby shop already. The only bigger box I have is the 1/48 VF-1 Strike/Super Valk. I am running out of space, so I hope there will be no awesome new kits until I can finish some.
  4. Do you post in the starship modeller group on FB as well? I remember seeing a similar build there.
  5. thanks alot @Thom & @MechTech! it is a journey to get this thing done. Next I will focus a bit on the RC innards to make it actually RC. I was waiting for another battery box. The 2x2AA box was to big and bad for balance, so I got two 2AA boxes which I can place in the hull left and right next to the electric engine. This was I get a good balance and the ship won't be able to tip over due to the lower center of gravity. Or at least, in case it tips over, it will turn around itself again. So is the theory...
  6. I already saw pictures of the box online. It is super huge. Anyone got John Moscatos Quedluun Rau to compare? I have the Imai one in my basement and will take some pictures as soon as the huge Hasegawa thing is in my hands.
  7. #$%&!? I kid you not ... almost every second piece on the cruiser I build looks like this. I truly believe the REVELL skill level is based on the mark the mold maker got during their mold making exam or something. This cruiser is set as "Skill level 5". Meaning they got a 5 for delivering something but being really bad at it. In the US that would be like an F on your exam. Anyway... ... you can get something decent from it, I think. I am constantly reminded why I am not doing REVELL kits anymore.
  8. Well, it is a really old kit. So maybe that is the reason. The plasto stuff ist sticking though.
  9. Oh man ... I love milliput and I have used it on many kits, but not on Revell ones yet. I puttied like crazy and got this. Then when sanding, the effing stuff just came off! It didn't stick! This never happened before. I am confused. The interesting part? It was sticking to the hull without issue. So ... I had to use Revell Plasto again. Needs to dry now for a bit before I am going to sand this again...
  10. got my notice as well. Send for shipping now, will be in my hands in 4-6 days
  11. And now for something completely different. Build a RC boat out of a 1:72 revell kit? Possible - but it is still a revell kit. The stockholm syndrom of any model kit builder. So, what am I building? A rescue cruiser with the name "Berlin". This kit first popped up in 1988 and it shows. https://www.scalemates.com/de/kits/revell-5226-seenotkreuzer-berlin--120489 One thing I really recommend to anyone touching revell kits: if the mold was made prior to the year 2000, don't touch it. Unless you like putty and sanding like crazy. And well - there is a reason Revell doesn't distribute this kit anymore. Gaps ... Gaps everywhere! I mean, looking at it from far away is okay. It looks nice and so on. Ah yeah, and here a floating test, just to check if all the RC components are not too heavy.
  12. I'll add some panel lines later with Tamiya Panel line stuff haha.
  13. Ah interesting. Yeah, there are some more panel lines.
  14. Finished this thing today. V Gundam „China Ware“ in 1/144. Super easy snap kit (probably an older HG from Bandai, copied). The parts fit tightly, so no glue, no paint. Just snap fit. For 5€, I cannot complain.
  15. That is my experience as well. Thin down the tamiya stuff a bit and it'll work good. I usually don't use tamiya colors, except for a few clear ones or metal colors. I mostly use Revell and Humbrol Lacquers.
  16. The bubbles are inside the resin. That is what i try to explain the whole time. It is not like I could pin into them with a needle because they are inside the print, and not on the surface. The „buttom“ of the canopy is actually one if the sides, as during the print, the canopies hang from the print bed. No wax will fill up those tiny bubbles. The bubbles are around 50 to 70μm. Maybe it is called pledge in the UK. I‘ve never seen it in any store in Germany. btw: I got this on a Chinese online store for roughly 5€.
  17. It could, but unfortunately it has a natural yellowish tint to it. There are processed versions of it, but they don't run as caranuba wax.
  18. @SteveTheFish Haha, yeah. The Future Floor Polish. We don't have that here, but we have similar stuff. Unfortunately that stuff yellows over time, same as Future. As far as I know, Future is discontinued and the model kit community in the US was going nuts for the hunt of Future bottles. I think it was re-named to "Pledge floor gloss" so they get that now. Indeed, any acrylic wax can do, not just Plesge. But, instead of using that, I was going the actual "coat" approach, checking what colours are actually developed to be coats. The Revell gloss and mate coat stuff is really bad. I didn't have luck with vallejo coats as well. The Citadel Ardcoat is kinda working good, but it has to be coated on several times. I had best results with Tamiya X-22 for anything acrylic based and humbrol coats for anything lacquer based. In the past I would have used Model Master clear top coat, but they are hard to get because they have been discontinued. I haven't gotten to try the testors top coat yet, as it is super expensive. Testors is not widely available in Germany. @Chronocidal Thanks! Well, it is challenging, but it can be done. So far no canopy broke. Just gentle sanding in steps 180, 320, 500, 1500, 2000 and 2500, then microfiber polishing and done. When I polish the next canopy I will go through each step and take pictures. The most annoying part is sanding the inside, because my fingers barely fit into the canopy.
  19. hehe... I actually did, but that would be the easy way out. Imagine you want to print something clear that is a little bit more complex than a canopy... plunge molding wouldn't do for that.
  20. Got some stuff to show again. I have been testing around with polishing the clear resin stuff and basically came to the conclusion, that even with microfiber pads on a hobby drill to polish the stuff and using polishing compound, the canopies stayed slightly milky and never went full clear. So I went another approach. Left to right. Unprocessed cured print of the canopy Unprocessed cured print of the canopy coated with hairspray (because someone told me, they coat their models in loreal hair spray) Unprocessed cured print of the canopy dipped in Tamiya X-22 Unprocessed cured print of the canopy dipped in Humbrol Laquer Clear Coat Sanded (up to 500 grit) cured print of the canopy brushed with Humbrol Laquer Clear Coat Sanded (from 180 to 2500 grit and polished with microfiber) cured print of the canopy, dipped in thinned (mr. color leveling thinner) Tamiya X-22 The last one on the list is by far the clearest and shiniest of the canopies. I used the failed prints with the bubbles inside to test around, so no worries. I will pick one of the good prints later and start sanding and polishing, then dipping in thinned X-22. That should be good I think. @pengbuzz sorry to hear about that... hope everything is okay.
  21. @Thom Anyone can print that now. I released the model. @SteveTheFish Here you go, have your friend print this: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/1-72-macross-m3-milia-pilot
  22. @wm cheng this is so awesome to! Great work! I‘ll need a minmay for my VT-1 as well haha. I spend the night fixing my M3 Milia. Test printed her three times and seems so work now. detaching from the support went easily, nothing broke so it has enough strength. and it fits the VF-9 pilot seat. I will upload the STL later the day, so who ever wants to print an army of Milias can do that.
  23. @SteveTheFish That's okay - no one can know everything. Well - the game plays kinda like VF-X 2 with enhancements that make the gameplay a bit weird. In VF-X 2 you would have been able to solve a mission without ever switching modes, so you could be in fighter mode all the time. In M3, you have to switch around. You cannot finish the first mission without switching around. The game is a bit hard due to the tight time constraints, but can be played through in roughtly a day. The M3 is referring to Max, Milia and Moaramia. So no Komillia. Moaramia is an adopted Zentradi/Meltrandi. The story is simple. You fight Zentradi fundamentalists... and bugs ... that's that. @arbit I use "chamfer" for that. Let me show you. Let's make a cube. Turbo smooth it with 3 iterations, you basically get a weird ball. Go back to the base and chamfer some edges. Then check the turbo smoothed mesh and et voilà... fun commences!
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