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tekering

tekering's BItComp entry #3 - VF-11 Thunderbolt Super Battroid resin kit

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Posted (edited)

In the hopes that the "Built It Competition" hosted by @Return To Kit Form exceeds 20 entries ('cause I'm dead-set on getting a 1:72 Norbert Gerard Power Armour kit!), I've decided to devote all my resources to the task... meaning I'm gonna spend the next six months building all three of my Macross resin kits.  

The third and final entry is the oldest kit, and will definitely prove the most challenging; it's also the only officially-licensed resin kit I own, produced by Hobby Base RETPPU.

I bought it nearly 25 years ago, back when Macross Plus was the hottest property in the franchise.

1389014709_VF-11parts.thumb.jpg.d8ecc89c20c801e1f95dc96a05358b22.jpg

And wouldn't you know it, 25 years later, Macross Plus is STILL the hottest property in the franchise.  B))

Edited by tekering

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That’s a sweet kit! Love the gunpod!

Boy, I didn’t think to try multiple entries. You’re an animal @tekering:)

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in 15 minutes of postings Tek commits to more Completed resin kits than many members have completed in 15 years :D

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18 hours ago, Duymon said:

in 15 minutes of postings Tek commits to more Completed resin kits than many members have completed in 15 years :D

"He's more machine than man now. Twisted and evil"

Haha great selection Ted! You certainly have got tons of work cut out for yourself - good luck!

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Well, this is interesting:

A Macross Plus 1:72 VF-11 Super Thunderbolt by Hasegawa, and a Macross Plus 1:72 VF-11 Super Thunderbolt by Hobby Base RETPPU.

1112574697_statedscales.thumb.jpg.fc97e068d5d90033dab201febabe76d7.jpg

I would expect some parts to exhibit minor scale discrepancies -- wings and feet, especially -- since the kits represent different modes...

419188819_scalingdiscrepancy.thumb.jpg.33bef97562c32dabca7295761b9919e6.jpg

...but this is unbelievable!

These kits are clearly NOT to scale.  :blink:

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Posted (edited)

That’s redonkulous..

Its way beyond stylistic differences!

Who’s version is true 1/72?  I can’t imagine  Hasegawa has had it wrong all this time,  but :unknw:

The Retppu looks better..

Edited by Bolt

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32 minutes ago, Bolt said:

Who’s version is true 1/72?

I tend to give Hasegawa the benefit of the doubt.  Their 1:72 pilot scale seems consistent with other Macross merchandise...

1408564351_Macrosspilotscales.jpg.151652dcba9512f281ed4026420a4474.jpg

...and their packaging demonstrates the proper use of a colon to denote scale (something a lot of people don't seem to understand).  :p

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Posted (edited)

Monthly update:  One month in, and I'm already behind schedule..!  :vava:

Kinda got distracted by this behemoth.  :lol:

Anyway, having completed the initial assembly phase for both Hasegawa and Hobby Base RETPPU VF-11s, let's compare the two in more detail:

1091356435_Hasegawainstructions.thumb.jpg.a2ddb7e52ca8fea940f9aab8461129ca.jpg

Hasegawa instructions are a total of ten pages, with CAD drawings clearly illustrating each step of the assembly process.  There are about 80 parts altogether.

930701277_Hasegawaconfusion.thumb.jpg.c59052780fb4a1032019b973675d7bca.jpg

This is the only bit that confused me.  The piece circled in red is not labeled, and I couldn't find it on any of the sprues.  It was only when I looked at the picture beneath it that I realized that I was looking at two parts combined (D7 and D8, as indicated above).

1519704957_RETPPUinstructions.thumb.jpg.2cf9da82a321cd841571349f7925ffc6.jpg

Despite an equal number of parts, the Hobby Base RETPPU features only a single page for instructions, trying to illustrate every stage of construction in one hand-drawn picture.  It's a lot more confusing, and far more difficult to parse.  For example:

189016037_RETPPUconfusion.thumb.jpg.f0860b7359c2add92d3f8137f00fe59d.jpg

Note that polycap P17A fits into the elbow joint, and P17B slots into the forearm...

1703639488_VF-1polycaps.thumb.jpg.af1a733963ad8fc650d6f1f8da5a0fb9.jpg

Also note that the polycap sprue contains a part labeled 17, but neither a 17A nor a 17B.  :unknw:

999940576_RETPPUdirections.thumb.jpg.cf2363deffd6e6fa6400d64fdd6b389d.jpg

Ah, here's the explanation.  The included polycaps were apparently recycled from RETPPU's VF-1 kit, and several of the parts require modifications to fit the VF-11 joints.  According to the printed directions, polycap P17 is supposed to be cut into two pieces, one 2mm (in width, presumably) and the other 2.5mm -- hence, P17A and P17B.

1689665186_cuttingpolycaps.jpg.7816381afcf31609ddf1e65294385a93.jpg

So I cut them to fit and removed all extraneous protrusions...  However installing them reveals a further problem.

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The elbow joint is supposed to be held together by a rod in the middle, but the rod is much too short to reach the hole it's supposed to fit into.  <_<

I'll have to drill those out and replace them with metal pins or something.

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The legs are fairly well-proportioned, but it's gonna take a great deal of work to fix those horrible seam lines...  All that sculpted panel work will be destroyed.  :(

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Still, when it's all put together, it makes a terrific Battroid...

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...provided you have a very solid stand to support it!

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The joints are floppy as hell, and can't begin to handle the weight of the figure...  :angry:

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...unless you wanted to display it doubled over or something.  8P

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This is the best you'll be able to manage unassisted.  :unsure:

Further updates will follow when I figure out how to replace every single joint. :bigshok:

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P.S. I was gonna paint both kits simultaneously, and display them together...

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...but the profound difference in scale is even more apparent when the assembled kits are compared side-by-side.

527746086_nottoscale!.thumb.jpg.f90fdadf4ee13eee40923e50324cdd5f.jpg

Again, both kits claim to be 1:72 scale!  :blink:

Edited by tekering

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, tekering said:

Kinda got distracted by this behemoth.  :lol:

Umm.. OMG!:shok:

The VF-11 looks great! Good job navigating those instructions. Hasegawa & REPPTU clearly have different ideas of what 1/72 is..as well as what’s line art accurate..

I hope you can replace or modify all those joints easily enough.

Edited by Bolt

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On 6/7/2019 at 4:05 PM, electric indigo said:

Man, those seamlines on the legs come straight from hell!

Yes, but before I can even start fixing them, I have to paint the knee joints and the feet; those parts will be sandwiched between the leg halves, meaning they've gotta be painted before the legs can be properly assembled.  What a pain.  :(

First, choosing the right greys:

greys.thumb.jpg.c59533dcf3838b540210925cc927539d.jpg

The VF-11B is surprisingly tricky to paint, owing to its three-tone grey color scheme.  Yamato tried (and failed) three times to get the colors right.  <_<

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Over a span of eight years, Yamato released a 1:72 toy (that was too light), a Battroid action figure (that was too blue), and a 1:60 toy (that was too dark)...

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Three distinctly different base tones, despite all being the product of the same manufacturer!

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So I've been spraying a lot of test coats, trying to find the right warm grey for the primary color, the right slightly-cooler grey for the FAST packs, the right dark grey for the hands, feet and joints, and the right slate blue for the highlights.  Lots of trial-and-error, really.  :unsure:

So, let's talk about the laborious process of painting resin parts.

580780635_paintingstages1-3.thumb.jpg.bc05eb2268ec59982928a12400b16d8f.jpg

Stage 1: After washing off the mold release agent with dish soap, trim and sand the parts so they're ready for priming.

Stage 2: Apply a light coat of primer, which will bring out the sculpted detail as well as reveal any surface imperfections that need to be fixed.

Stage 3: Sand down the raised surfaces, to reveal how much recessed detail should be visible and to give the surface a rougher texture.  This will allow the second coat of primer to adhere firmly to any raised surfaces, and avoid paint rubs wherever surfaces will be in contact with each other.

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Stage 4: Apply a second, more uniform coat of primer, ensuring the surface has a smooth, even finish.  Stages 3 and 4 may require repetition, especially where surface imperfections like air bubbles or scratches require putty to repair; sand and prime, sand and prime again until the surface is perfect.

Stage 5: Apply the base coat.  I much prefer the black basing approach to pre-shading, and everything I paint starts with several coats of Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500.

Stage 6: Apply a light coat of the primary color (in this case Tamiya's AS-4, "Gray Violet").  Recessed detail should retain a little of the base black color, so it stands out.

 

Next update will cover shading and panel-lining... if I ever get that far...!  :huh:

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Nice job Tek:good: .. ya stages 3&4 over and over, I can relate! I really like the black coat underneath effect. And I’m taking notes!:D

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