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Everything posted by Chronocidal
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Ahh, k then, I was mostly wondering if you'd used any of the original yellow, or had repainted it all. Looks spectacular!
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Sadly, that's been the standard operating procedure for all of the VF-19s.. I don't know why either, it seems pretty cheap in comparison to all the other details. I've always just assumed there wasn't much room to do such a thing with the wing needing to fold into the glove.
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I'm glad to see that concept come to fruition, it really looks even better than we it was discussed earlier in the thread. Knowing how hard they are to get now, I'm really scared to start painting over one of mine, but if they ever get re-released, I'll probably grab another to do this to. It's such a relatively simple job compared to some things, I don't think I could pass it up. How much of it did you actually repaint, and did you actually just swap any parts around from other VF-19s? Only ask because the yellow color looks pretty close to the Fire Valk's.
- 2099 replies
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All Things Videogame Related: EXTREME VS!!
Chronocidal replied to Keith's topic in Anime or Science Fiction
Technically, any flight sim-ish game that'll handle it. I imagine Star Citizen will wind up supporting it eventually too, as well as whatever this new X-Wing mmo thing turns out to be. I'm hoping that a lot of older sim communities will make patches and utilities to bring in backwards compatbility for some of the old games. Freespace 2 will probably be a shoe in, and I'd love to get my old Janes Superhornet sim to support it. If you could write a background utility to convert the OR input into old-fashioned view control inputs, you could probably get it at least minimally working with any game that supported a 3D cockpit. At the moment, only game I know that already supports it natively is WarThunder, one of the more recent microtransaction games out there, apparently built by some of the same folks who made the original IL-2. I'm not generally huge on the whole pvp/mmo deal, but the game does have separate single player campaigns you can buy that I've been enjoying, as well as privately hosted co-op, and the sim is really beautiful. Honestly, I kinda hate the way the microtransaction and pay-to-play trends keep growing, but at the same time, I've realized that I'd rather pay for that kind of entertainment than for 200 channels of nothing to watch. And honestly, the lack of good sim-games has been horrible in the past few years. I feel like I want to support companies who run those types of games as much as I can.- 6890 replies
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All Things Videogame Related: EXTREME VS!!
Chronocidal replied to Keith's topic in Anime or Science Fiction
I can't wait for the Oculus Rift to hit the final release stage.. I've already been prepping my flight sim hardware for it.- 6890 replies
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I know I drooled over the MPC a long time before I actually did some research, and discovered what Macross was. In fact, I think that's how I found this site to begin with. Fortunately, I started hunting right around the time the 1/48ths came out, so I got to jump in right at the start of Yamato's "golden age." I just hope Arcadia can continue in the same tradition for a long time.
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The Nerf N-Strike Arsenal Thread
Chronocidal replied to areaseven's topic in Anime or Science Fiction
Amazon seems to have a really weird way of trying to sell Nerf products.. every time I've ever looked up something there, it was easily 3 to 5 times the normal retail price. -
Picked up my printer this afternoon, and had a not-entirely unsuccessful first few prints to test it out. Did a simpler print of my WC Excalibur model (single mesh from my original game model), and learned a few lessons, but still came out with a fairly decent print. Main lesson learned, don't expect anything against the print surface to turn out like you want it. I printed the ship with the nose pointing upwards, and the entire thing worked great (minus a few mesh glitches due to not properly prepping the model), except the back edges of everything turned out really rough. My main concern was that I didn't want to print any flat surface facing upwards, because I knew it would get that back and forth squiggle pattern where the print head filled in the flat piece. Printing flat surfaces vertically makes them nice and smooth, but that leaves the side facing the print surface jagged, and the back edges of the tails have holes in them where the raft pulled away some of the material. Mostly, I think a little prep-work will go a long way, but the model I wound up with turned out nicer than I was expecting for a first run. I might try printing a couple of the pieces for my larger kit tomorrow to test them.
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That's really the entire problem with the old Yamato YF-19 honestly.. Yeah, the gullet could be slimmer, but that's not what throws the entire plane off. It's just that the nose is mounted at such an angle that it looks like the thing is sitting with its chin stuck in the air. A little bit of tweaking can work wonders. I don't think the plane is ever going to sit level on the gear, unless they add another half inch to the front gear bay, but at least the plane itself can look aligned. Now that these are coming out, and I've got my 3d printer running, I think I'm going to take this mod to the extreme end, and see if I can't remake the nose section from scratch.
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Shape-wise, the old YF-19 really wasn't bad from that view.. or in general, really... It just had quite a few other problems that just piled onto the so-so shape, and helped to drag the design down. Also, the reason that one works from the top view mostly? The legs may have been nice from the top, but just like the entire neck, they were inflated vertically. The entire plane looked like it was stretched in the vertical axis, and nothing lined up the way it should have. The new legs are definitely wider than the original, but that'll actually bring them much closer to being in proportion, since they look about the same height.
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I... just noticed. The 80s space guy's helmet chin.. is cracked. Oh the memories. I think this has a ton of potential to be hilarious, but I do wonder if the humor is going to hit Family Guy-ish levels of self-reference that many people might not get.
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Exactly this. They aren't going to paint the metal sections of the joint tan, and that's mostly what you're seeing. The sliding cover only covers up the gap inside the knee, and if it were tan, it'd clash horribly. While I think they may have gone overboard in the way they shorten the legs so much for battroid, it does make the legs look much closer to the animation. The result is just that, like the VF-17, the legs have to be made quite a bit longer for fighter mode to work correctly, and the knee joint is the best place to let that extension happen.
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So pretty. I think the intake lip on that one is quite a bit smaller than the original pics, it looks like the edges have been more blended. Honestly, that doesn't bother me quite as much as the gaps for the knee extensions, but even those blend in decently with the correct colors, so I'm not too concerned. Now, the trick is going to be designing a stand clip to go around that big boxy back plate for fighter mode.
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I don't think the color is greenish so much as they're picking up the green from the guy's pants, but who knows.
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Definitely a gloss on the prototype, but it's a lot more muted on the tampoed copies. Looking great so far.
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Picked up my pair at the post office this afternoon, only opened one so far, and it's looking good. Shoulder panels and arms were a little misaligned out of the box, but surprisingly the legs were both tabbed into the wings. Still going to run through at least one gerwalk cycle to get things lined up. Also, really pleased to see how much of this one looks molded in color. The simpler paint scheme helps a ton, but it looks like they just bypassed the painting, and molded more pieces in the color they should be. Where the 30th version had the entire rear backplate molded in silver, and then had white and black painted over it, this one is all in the base tan color, with the silver painted underneath (maybe someone finally realized that no one will care if the underside of the backplate gets the paint scratched off). Canopy does look a bit dark, so I might strip it at some point, but I'm fine leaving this one minty for now. Ohh, and yeah.. they finally matched the colors between the different parts of the inner knee.
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Bandai 1/72 fully transform able VF-1 plastic kit for Macross 30th Ann
Chronocidal replied to Vi-RS's topic in Model kits
Or, if you really feel the need to assemble something and glue it in fighter mode, you could always just get a Hasegawa kit. Or even get a Yamato 1/60 kit, and just glue it together. I dunno why people feel the need to punish themselves by trying to build something with a bunch of problems that way.. maybe a challenge to see if you can overcome the shortcomings? I guess that makes sense. I'd be really interested to see anyone fix the wacky angles the legs always wind up with though. -
Well, from my experience with metal, I do know that simply throwing metal molecules around without the proper processes might produce steel girders with the strength of a damp rag. Ok, maybe not that bad. But there's a lot involved in things like forging and extruding raw metals that imparts a good deal of strength to the finished product. If they can figure out how to lay down the material at the molecular level, they could do it manually, but we're not that advanced yet. As far as plastic goes, the UV/laser method sounds like it would be incredible for accuracy, but the problem there is the materials involved. I know the resin used in those types of machines will be good for some projects, but for me, the ability to print in a workable, industry-standard plastic is key. It's not as useful as styrene in some ways, but ABS will absolutely work for what I want to build.
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Well, it's certainly changing the process of making a resin garage kit. I can't honestly say it will be easier, or less labor intensive than making traditional masters to cast, but it will definitely have an effect on the overall cost to make them. My main question is how long it will be before 3D printing becomes a viable replacement for resin casting as a whole. I don't know how the overall production costs will compare over time, since I've never worked with resin kits. So far, to get the same quality from a 3D print as a cast is just incredibly expensive, but the quality on small personal printers is ramping up at an impressive pace.
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Well, order placed through Dynamism.com, a local US supplier that had it on sale. Not sure if it'll go through without specific approval from my bank, but I'll find out tomorrow. Thanks for the input! This is going to be a really creative year.
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Oh, I'm perfectly ok with an extruder, since I don't plan on printing "finished" pieces anyway. I mostly want to print out my own model parts to supplement my existing kits (extra stores and such possibly two-seat conversions, etc), and some kits from scratch. Plus, I guess I like working in ABS in general, since it's generally good for model/toy parts. I can probably print my own Yamato replacements. Any benefit to buying the printer from a distributor, rather than the main product site?
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So, it's that time of year where I have some funds from family gifts, and I'm preparing to buy a printer for myself. Still thinking of getting an UP! Plus 2, but I'm open to suggestions on what's the latest and greatest bang for the buck. Mostly, I'm just looking for something with between a 6" and 8" cubic printing area (bigger is better, doesn't need to be cubic either, a shoebox shape would be fine), and with easy leveling and calibration. I know the UP! Plus 2 has auto-calibration, so that's what was drawing me to it from the start. What types of suppliers/retailers do you go to for ordering these types of printers and plastic spools? And, after a quick Google search, it appears the UP! Plus 2 is on sale for $150 off at the moment.. hmmm...
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Hah, actually that's amusiing.. I think the one classic visorless space figure I have is the blue one. Aha, there it is! Never could remember the name.
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I think Bandai has just been doing a terrible job of informing its employees how to correctly pack their products recently. Their QC teams don't know what they're looking at, and it's abundantly clear that they don't know what the things are supposed to look like, or how they transform. I've gotten at least four Bandai valks in various stages of mistransformation, for assorted reasons. Mostly, I think they just take a quick look at the things to make sure all the pieces are there, then put them back in the box without actually trying to repack them in any particular mode. Other times, they're mistransformed because parts are missing, and no one figured it out (my VF-25G with no crotch plate), or because someone had absolutely no idea what they were doing, and let a completely misassembled valk go through without even trying to put it any recognizable form. My super VF-27 had its shoulder linkages installed upside-down, backwards, or both, and couldn't actually transform into any mode, because the hinges were so out of whack.. I had to take the thing apart and reassemble it myself before it was even possible to fit correctly in the package.
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You should be fine on the wing, but make absolutely sure that the fuselage is molded in tan, and not painted over. The 30th anniversary version had the entire fuselage molded in dark gunmetal plastic, and painted over in white and black. The underside will most likely still be a gunmetal color, so, I'd find a hidden spot along the border between the tan and metal/gray, and scratch it very gently to see which color is painted, and which is molded.