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Chronocidal

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Everything posted by Chronocidal

  1. I haven't looked at my stand closely to check, but if it's anything like the SV-51/YF-21 stand, it should be possible to rotate the tip of the stand, and mount it sideways so you can roll the jet. I'm not sure about roll and pitch though. The old stand had a different mount than the standard Yamato stand adapters, and had a big peg that would accept the adapters at several angles, so you could mount the valk sideways, tilted, backwards, etc, to get the maximum variability out of the stand. You would have to angle the base in some weird ways to display the valk that way though. Edit: Yeah, just looked at my stand, the tip that accepts the stand adapters can be attached at a lot of angles, looks like either 12 or 16. All you have to do is mount the tip rotated, and you can get pretty much any angle of bank and pitch you want, as long as you don't mind the base being angled on your shelf.
  2. Well, really, think about this a moment.. If the designs aren't even different to accommodate the bigger canopy like I assumed, there would probably be literally nothing stopping you from swapping a VF-0D nose onto another VF-0.
  3. That's.. actually much worse looking than the normal one would be. They basically turned it into a robot that looks kinda like it uses some airplane parts. I think if they actually recessed the speakers instead of making them into boobs, the design would be fine. Just cover them with sliding doors.
  4. Hey, I'm still going with the thought that they've been watching your upgrade sales, and figured out it was worthwhile. You showed them it it was plenty possible.
  5. Actually, I noticed the color inconsistency too, and I wonder if it's because the parts may have been produced in different factories. Say, if they had had a lot of parts left over when Yamato closed, and mixed the leftovers with the new run?
  6. The tricky difference about the D is the different nose, since the rest of the changes are mostly aesthetic, and don't really have any effect on the transformation. Comparing the various model instructions, I don't think the nose on the D is actually longer, it's just a different profile because of the double cockpit. It'll take some redesigning of the chest area in battroid to work, similar to how the VT-1 and VE-1 are different from the standard VF-1. The backpack mechanism might be a little redesigned as well, to remove the original tail mounts, and it'll need some kind of attachment to the back of the lower legs to connect the wings in fighter mode, but those should be pretty simple changes to make. You're still looking at replacing or changing at least 1/3 to 1/2 the parts of the valk though.
  7. If the image is any indicator, looks like they might be continuing the standard they're starting with the YF-19, and including a bunch of optional weapons. The 0D had single pylons right under the wingtips, and those long pointy missiles look like they might be AMRAAMs. I'll be incredibly surprised if it's anything but the 0D, but I wouldn't mind getting a VF-14 (the SR-71-ish one, not the M3 version).
  8. HAH VF-0D all the way! Will buy at least one, just hope it's not more than the YF-19.
  9. Maybe I should clarify which piece I'm actually referring to. The piece I'm working with is that huge wing in the lower left. It's the centerpiece of the model, and everything glues to it. I'm thinking I might need to custom build a support for it though, since there's nothing to really hold it to the plate if it stands on the back edge. I've been letting the platform get up to 1000 C before I print anything, which usually takes about 10-15 min, but I can try seeing if it goes higher than that. I'm not sure if the platform stays heated while printing though. As far as calibration goes, I've been using the auto-level sensor the printer came with, but I can try manually doing it as well. What seems to happen is that the entire structure cools and shrinks as it gets farther from the platter, and it winds up warping things, pulling the edges up from the support. Ambient room temp is about 700 F, would it help to keep the room itself warmer? I probably do need to go read the official forums for the printer though.
  10. I'm not even concerned about a cockpit at the moment, the scale on WC ships is insane, and even at this size, it's close to 1/200 scale. I don't think the clear filiment would ever make a usable canopy anyway, due to the layering process. I can probably print the main body components all the same way as the upper fuselage, so those I'm not concerned with too much, but this wing is a puzzle. It covers nearly the entire printing area at the size I'm aiming for, and I was able to print a test copy flat, but at some point in the print, part of the wing came loose and warped upwards. Besides that, the underside was so covered with layers of support structure it was impossible to clean up. I'm experimenting with either cutting the wing in half and molding it from the center outward, or building my own support structure to hold the thing in place, because to two times I've tried printing it vertically, it came loose within the first few layers.
  11. Well, Wing Commander type, if you're wondering. I think I posted a pic here earlier, but here's the most recent model I'm trying to print from. It's the same model I sent to Shapeways a while back, but I just finished cutting the panel lines into it. I cut the panel lines oversized to make sure they print deep enough to allow a little sanding and smoothing, and I had one print that came out pretty close to perfect last night, but a few of the panel lines were too close together, and caused some misaligned layers in between. I'm reprinting the upper fuselage with some adjustments right now, along with the main wing, so we'll see how that comes out. Was also really happy to find out Amazon sells the refill spools. Wish I could find some gray, but I got another spool of white and one of black for about $35 each. Edit: So, here's the top half of the fuselage I printed, panel lines included. Took about 3 hours to do on the "fine" setting, and a bit of sanding to clean up, but it really smoothed out nicely. Sadly, this one's got a few of the messed up details from panel lines being too close together, so I'll probably print another one later. I tried a print on fast, and the panel lines turned out correctly, but the overal quality wasn't great. So far, I'm having the best success printing things vertically. This was printed with the nose pointing straight up, and I was happy to see it not tip over. Most of the other pieces should print fine that way, but I'm having a dickens of a time setting up the wing. It's too wide standing on its back edge to print reliably (printing anything long and skinny doesn't stick), so right now I'm waiting on a test to see if it'll even print laying flat.
  12. Not yet, I'm still learning my way around the active forums about 3d printing, so that'll probably come in handy. Though, I think I do know what's going on.. I'm just trying to print things that're too big and flexible for the printer to not mess up the shape. Printing smaller parts at a time seems to work much better. I've been reworking that excalibur model with panel lines, and printing a small test piece tonight, so we'll see how that goes.
  13. I've always assumed this would be an option anyway. Not letting people use other USB devices would be shooting themselves in the foot repeatedly.
  14. Don't think so sadly, but I grabbed two to be safe. By the way.. I remember someone asking why the Roy was labeled "Special Movie Version" and the Hikaru was just "Movie Version"... just occurred to me last night... Roy's VF-1S sometimes gets referred to as the "Roy Focker Special."
  15. Very fancy stuff there! So, starting to have a problem, and I'm not sure what's behind it. After a few successful prints with no trouble, suddenly, my printer can't seem to make the layers of the support structure stick together. I've got absolutely no trouble sticking to the base, but the layers of the support structure are just peeling apart before I even start the model. It's like only the first 3-4 layers are sticking before everything just starts peeling up from there. One thing I am noticing though, the strips the printer is putting down to build up the support structure used to be straight lines, but now the material is turning into little squiggles, which I can't tell is on purpose or not. Is the structure just cooling too fast, and not sticking to itself? That would explain this happening I guess, but then I have no idea what changed between yesterday and today. I had a near perfect print of an entire model last night, but I haven't been able to get anything decent all day today.
  16. I mean more.. well, you're not going to be able to mount new pegs on the backplate, since there's no room for anything sturdy, but has anyone tried anything else? Is there room inside the legs to just reverse the system, mount some pegs on the legs, and drill out the section of the backplate that holds them? I'm really just wondering if anyone has seen or tried anything that would fix it, and retain the transformation.
  17. Ahh, k then, I was mostly wondering if you'd used any of the original yellow, or had repainted it all. Looks spectacular!
  18. Sadly, that's been the standard operating procedure for all of the VF-19s.. I don't know why either, it seems pretty cheap in comparison to all the other details. I've always just assumed there wasn't much room to do such a thing with the wing needing to fold into the glove.
  19. I'm glad to see that concept come to fruition, it really looks even better than we it was discussed earlier in the thread. Knowing how hard they are to get now, I'm really scared to start painting over one of mine, but if they ever get re-released, I'll probably grab another to do this to. It's such a relatively simple job compared to some things, I don't think I could pass it up. How much of it did you actually repaint, and did you actually just swap any parts around from other VF-19s? Only ask because the yellow color looks pretty close to the Fire Valk's.
  20. Technically, any flight sim-ish game that'll handle it. I imagine Star Citizen will wind up supporting it eventually too, as well as whatever this new X-Wing mmo thing turns out to be. I'm hoping that a lot of older sim communities will make patches and utilities to bring in backwards compatbility for some of the old games. Freespace 2 will probably be a shoe in, and I'd love to get my old Janes Superhornet sim to support it. If you could write a background utility to convert the OR input into old-fashioned view control inputs, you could probably get it at least minimally working with any game that supported a 3D cockpit. At the moment, only game I know that already supports it natively is WarThunder, one of the more recent microtransaction games out there, apparently built by some of the same folks who made the original IL-2. I'm not generally huge on the whole pvp/mmo deal, but the game does have separate single player campaigns you can buy that I've been enjoying, as well as privately hosted co-op, and the sim is really beautiful. Honestly, I kinda hate the way the microtransaction and pay-to-play trends keep growing, but at the same time, I've realized that I'd rather pay for that kind of entertainment than for 200 channels of nothing to watch. And honestly, the lack of good sim-games has been horrible in the past few years. I feel like I want to support companies who run those types of games as much as I can.
  21. I can't wait for the Oculus Rift to hit the final release stage.. I've already been prepping my flight sim hardware for it.
  22. I know I drooled over the MPC a long time before I actually did some research, and discovered what Macross was. In fact, I think that's how I found this site to begin with. Fortunately, I started hunting right around the time the 1/48ths came out, so I got to jump in right at the start of Yamato's "golden age." I just hope Arcadia can continue in the same tradition for a long time.
  23. Amazon seems to have a really weird way of trying to sell Nerf products.. every time I've ever looked up something there, it was easily 3 to 5 times the normal retail price.
  24. Picked up my printer this afternoon, and had a not-entirely unsuccessful first few prints to test it out. Did a simpler print of my WC Excalibur model (single mesh from my original game model), and learned a few lessons, but still came out with a fairly decent print. Main lesson learned, don't expect anything against the print surface to turn out like you want it. I printed the ship with the nose pointing upwards, and the entire thing worked great (minus a few mesh glitches due to not properly prepping the model), except the back edges of everything turned out really rough. My main concern was that I didn't want to print any flat surface facing upwards, because I knew it would get that back and forth squiggle pattern where the print head filled in the flat piece. Printing flat surfaces vertically makes them nice and smooth, but that leaves the side facing the print surface jagged, and the back edges of the tails have holes in them where the raft pulled away some of the material. Mostly, I think a little prep-work will go a long way, but the model I wound up with turned out nicer than I was expecting for a first run. I might try printing a couple of the pieces for my larger kit tomorrow to test them.
  25. That's really the entire problem with the old Yamato YF-19 honestly.. Yeah, the gullet could be slimmer, but that's not what throws the entire plane off. It's just that the nose is mounted at such an angle that it looks like the thing is sitting with its chin stuck in the air. A little bit of tweaking can work wonders. I don't think the plane is ever going to sit level on the gear, unless they add another half inch to the front gear bay, but at least the plane itself can look aligned. Now that these are coming out, and I've got my 3d printer running, I think I'm going to take this mod to the extreme end, and see if I can't remake the nose section from scratch.
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