nightmareB4macross

I'm still working on it. I've been having issues with my rubber mold material. The resin is not on it's best behavior, nor is the pigment. It's too cold in my workshop even with a space heater. The molds are soft for my taste. I already have the solution. Now it's up to the weather to cut me a break. The arms will be slightly thicker, but not in areas where friction is involved. The critical areas where fissures first appeared should not be an issue. ***It appears breakage occurs due to overtightening the screw at the top of the shoulder. When the upper arm is assembled using the lower screw the part attaches fine with a bit of tension. Then, when you set the upper screw and tighten, a small rubber cap inside the upper arm is squeezed to much and the arm gives. Also there seems to be a very prominant parting line on the shoulder ball joint. By compressing the arm too much you actually bind the arm, which is fine, until you move it. For those who have not broken the upper arm on your 0(s), you can remove the upper arm and do one of three things to help prevent a break: 1. Loosen the top screw on the upper arm. 2. Clean the seam line on the ball joint. 3. Cut a thin slice of the rubber cap located inside the upper arm.

Why would you try to switch the two? Besides the 1S head would rest really low between the shoulders of the 0.

Official? This is a custom scheme. IIRC, so was the LV1. If Yamato was to hold back on producing something like this because it's not canon, that would be insulting to us and themselves. Milk the molds, Yamato. Milk those molds, 'til they can't be milk-ed no more.

What?!? Is that all we get? Thanks? Oh no you didn't get back here and post more pics in other modes.

Don't worry guys. I'm working on these. I will do my best to find a solution. Thank you all for your cooperation. I'll post something later this week.

I loved this kit. Simple and always looked great.

Nice start. Are planning on panel lining the valk prior to installling the reactive armour?

I may be Jack, but you'll always be my Sally, BIATCH!!!

THIRD UPDATE - Well, just as I suspected, I can't use these parts. Sure I could recast these as the orginals but then, that wouldn't help us find the problem. The elbow is now repaired and is working better than ever. There was no need for any major work nor the use of "Crazy Glue" or its counterparts. The little gem used for this repair was Plastruct Plastic Weld. How I used it: 1. Studied parts prior to bonding. 2. Preassemble all the parts prior to bonding it together. In other words, "dry fitting". 3. Brushed a light coat over the affected area. 4. Immediately contact broken parts together. DO NOT TRY TO PEICE MORE THAN ONE PEICE AT A TIME! 5. Allow first contacted piece to set and dry while lightly squeezing into place. 6. Follow through with another peice just as you did in step #5. Be careful not to shift the first contacted part. 7. You might note a bit of plastic seeping from the jointed area. Lightly scape this with an exacto knife. 8. With ONE brush stroke apply a thin coat of Plastruct Plastic Weld over the jointed areas. 9. Allow ample time to dry. 10. Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly over the part. This helps the parts move with ease. 11. Relocate newly repaired part to perfom its normal function. 12. Finished and Enjoy. If there is anyone out there who has parts we all need please PM me. ***These pics are for you Bee. Your (other) girl is coming home. Just don't tell Caroline. Thanks, NB4M

Yeah, it is. It glued above the foot, at the air intake/exhaust, just below the landing gear (battroid mode).

SECOND UPDATE - I recieved the parts. Unfortunately, they're not what I was looking for. The parts are broken at the elbow and not the shoulder (see tiny debris located in the lower left-hand corner). The parts I need are broken shoulder parts. As it now turns out I will be working on the elbow as well. What I would like is, if someone who has the broken shoulder, can you please take a pic of both the inside and the outside of the shoulder and post it here? I am only looking for pics of UNREPAIRED shoulders. I am interested in the actual break. Thanks, NB4M *Thanks again, Bee (kiririth).

I will take possession of the VF-0A later today. I'll keep updating this thread. FIRST UPDATE - Thanks, Bee!

Thanks. I really appreciate it.

What about the leg armour with the same magnetic polarity attracted to the same polarity on leg? Anyone find a remedy to this yet? Anyone know how to open the leg?

You sir, are such a bastid.

Let's see if Haterist...oops I mean, Do Not Disturb chimes in and schools us all.

NIIIIIIIIICE!!!! Has a simple and killer look to it. Great job!!

Actually, I like the 1/48 hands just the way they are with the exception to the size. It could have been scaled just a little larger and it would have been perfect.

Hey!!! (flings dirty diaper at EXO)

I think they only like trannies and not Starcream.

Wait 'til you get your hands on it. The slight differences from the VF-1 to the VF-0 will astound you. -------------------------------- Scream Man, NIIIIIIICE!!!!!! How about some pics in other modes? Maybe even submit it to the "Customs Gallery."

I kind of like how they tried to keep the original head design, it shows a bit of reverence to OP and his G1 awesomeness. On the other hand, the 'bot mode looks a little thin and could use some bulking up or a better paint scheme. The flames on blue make him look a bit robotosexual. They should've stuck with the original red cab semi.

I think we won't be able to swim if we remain with VF-0(s) that have broken arms. Better to swim than sink.

I'd say more stringent testing on the plastic used and not necissarily the toy. It looks as though the plastic is the real issue here. For example, take a look at where the metal swing bar locks in place during transformation of fighter, yup, you guessed it...STRESS MARKS!